Prius (2004-09) :: Low Temp Shudder On Tight Radius Turns?
Feb 18, 2015
I'm new to the 2G and noticed a wheel shudder or jump when turning a tight circle in low temps? I'll try to list out all the info I can:
The shudder was exactly like a 4x4 vehicle in low range/diff-lock when turning on dry pavement.
Going straight or slight turns only, nothing noticeable. ( I was paying attention)
200k miles, just bought the car and haven't changed the WS atf yet.
Temps in the -25°C/-10°F range ....
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When I drive in a parking lot or parking garage and start off into a slow, tight corner, I feel a "surge". If I had a locked diff I would understand. I have a Haldex composition controller. I am not bothered about it...just wondering what it could be. Maybe the clutch slipping?? No evidence of that at full throttle acceleration runs in the higher gears.
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I drive a 2004 Volvo v70 (non turbo). It died on me about 3 times in 5 years on tight turns ((switchback). It hadn't happened for a couple of years but now it has stopped 3 times in the last couple of months. It is very dangerous as the steering stops working and I have to totally stop, put my car in park and restart.
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It's not entirely repeatable but only happens on tight left turns under deceleration such as a u-turn or turning left into a parking spot. The noise is a continuous whirring like a bit of plastic is rubbing the front passenger tire tread and continues for a moment even as I straighten the wheel out. I'm going to take the wheel off tomorrow to change my brake fluid and will take a closer look then. I'm on stock suspension and wheels.
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I have a 2002 volvo v70 xc just had the passenger side strut replaced and now every time i make a sharp turn usually in reverse to the left my driver side wheel makes a horrible popping sound. It will also make said sound sitting still and turning the wheel same direction very sharply. Could this possibly be from when i had it worked on? They originally told me i needed new control arm bushings then decided i needed a new strut. Could they have possibly messed with anything that could have caused this?
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Looking for pictorial descriptions / videos on how to replace the CV axles on 2011-14 Sonata 2.4? Mine starts developing clicking noise under tight turns about 10k miles ago but the boots are absolutely fine. I just hope to buy some time on it before I can confidently replace those axles myself as I only have limited cash.
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97 Outback, 143 K, auto. 2.2. When in a tight turn in a parking lot or doing a U turn, the car lurches, like my p.u. does when in 4 wheel drive. Not as strongly, but it does not feel right. There is no CV joint noise, tires seem equally worn. The seller says it is tires, my experience with 5 different soobs says no and I never carefully match tire wear, ( I do not replace all 4)If it is not tires, what might it be?
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My goals would be:
1. float less on uneven pavement
2. track flatter and smoother in tight turns at speed
3. maintain highway comfort or dam close to it (99% of my driving)
4. remain at stock height (i am not lowering this car up here!)
It may not be possible to achieve all of this but at this point i do not know what is possible or what the pros and cons are of any suggested changes. A quick search of 'tdi suspension' on vwvortex gave me a few hits but mostly for golf and jettas.
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It's not slow turning over just takes a little bit longer to actually catch and start.
When the motor is warm or the outside temperature is closer to freezing or above I find that it turns over for no more than about 2 seconds before it starts.
I am thinking the longer turning over when cold is a good thing since the motor is starting to pump oil when it is turning over and allowing the internals to get lubricated before starting and revving.
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We have a 2003 Subaru Legacy named Penny. Lately she's been "thumping" when we make slow tight turns -- usually when pulling into or out of a parking spot. This is less of a noise, more of a sensation. Thumping and bumping as if the front tires are flat, but that's not the case. To complicate matters, it doesn't seem to happen first thing in the morning. Starts showing up after a drive of 30 - 40 minutes and continues to get worse the longer we drive throughout the day. Driving straight is fine, less sharp turns also fine. Mechanic guessed axle and replaced both front axles last week. But the problem persists. We are independent musicians, traveling often, and NEED this car to drive reliably!
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Is there a way to expand the view on a 2008 GPS to more than a 300 foot radius?
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2006 Prius ...
Symptoms: The shudder feels like going over a "washboard" dirt road. It mimics the normal "cough / hesitation" that occasionally happens when the MG2 switches to the ICE while accelerating, or vice versa at a stop light. However, unlike the normal switching, this is continuous. It ONLY happens when accelerating; as soon as I lift my foot from the gas, the shudder quits. Although it is worse in stop-and-go, it is also noticeable on a clear freeway. It is worse with a cold engine, but continues from speeds of 10 mph all the way up to 80 mph (and probably higher.) The shudder is slower at lower speeds, and faster at higher speeds. It is most dramatic when making a left turn from a dead stop - the whole vehicle shakes. Weather conditions vary, but usually it happens on dry, paved roads, anywhere from 30-degrees to 75-degrees (F).
Frequency: first noticed a few months ago, gradually becoming more frequent. Now, it is almost every time the car is started. (Sometimes it accelerates without any problem at all.)
Diagnostics: The "Check Engine" light has been on for about 5 years (dealerships couldn't find anything wrong and it turned out to be the MG1 battery.) But when this new shuddering happens, the "Check Engine" light blinks continuously until the shuddering quits (i.e. let off the gas or brake.) There are no other indicator lights on (no triangle of death). And the diagnostics mode tells me nothing.
Other Info: The MG2 battery has not been replaced in the entire life of the vehicle. The MG1 battery was replaced, however, about 2 years ago. Regular oil changes have been kept up, along with air filter replacements, brake pad replacements, tire rotations, and all the other standard maintenance. It has had one owner, and is at 255,000 miles. MPG is currently at about 44.4 and has not changed since this problem started.
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