i started my '04 prius (~110k miles) this morning, went back into the house to grab a few things, & then I started hearing a loud rattling sound from the engine for a few seconds before the engine died.
The dash and MFD lite up with these symbols in the attached images.
I've noticed, maybe a handful of times in the 5k miles I've owned the car, that the engine will rattle excessively for maybe 30 seconds or so on a drive. This only happens during high load/low speeds and I think after the engine has been off for at least about 10-15 minutes. It doesn't happen on start up, only after the car is warm, but hasn't been using the engine for a bit. I'm thinking this is fuel enrichment (really rough running) because the cat has cooled.
View 6 RepliesI recently had my oil changed at Toyota dealership at 11,700 miles. Picked it up after 2 days and upon starting heard a very loud rattling sound from engine; as if it were going to drop right out of the car. Shut it off and re-started ok, but very concerned. No repeat of incident until this morning. Same sound at start-up (now at 12,600 miles). My daughter who was inside the house could hear the noise. I used the car the previous day, parked outside in driveway as usual. Now very very concerned.
View 19 RepliesWas driving 97 honda Accord 4 cylinder today when it made a loud rattling noise, took it in to advanced auto parts to see if they could give me a hint to what was wrong, as I was showing the employee the noise got progressively worse and he told me the connecting rod was loose and I could make it home if I went under 35 he mentioned something about tightening two bolts but having to drop the oil pan to get to it, as I was driving home the noise eventually turned into a clunk and the car died, when I try to start it up you can hear the engine turn but there is nothing after that, don't know much about cars but what is the process I need to go through to replace this connecting rod myself and how to get the car to start again.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2013 Santa Fe, 2.2 Diesel AWD and have recently experienced this popping sound. The sound is normally noticed within seconds of switch off the engine and is loud enough to make people jump with surprise. When I originally complained I was told this was normal ... nonsense I said as having owned vehicles from various manufacturers(Nissan, SAAB, Renault, VW, Chrysler, Mazda, Lexus) over the last 25year I've never experienced anything like this. Car is back in for a 90K klm service and repeated my complaint - lets see what happens. To me this is coming from the catalytic converter and when I look at the box underneath the car it has numerous bump/dents on it yet has never been offroad.
View 2 RepliesProblem description: A loud metallic rattling sound from under the car under moderate to heavy engine load, only when engine/exhaust is/are cold. It is noticeable from within the cabin with the windows rolled up and the sunroof closed. Crack a window or the sunroof and it's pretty loud. The first time I heard I, I thought "this is not good".
This is not an octane ping or valve train noise. It sounds like a coffee can with marbles being shaken in concert which what might be the rapping of a V8 engine's exhaust. I had a Sunbeam Tiger that rapped in the upper rpm ranges and this reminded me of that but instead of rapping, it shakes a can with marbles.
There has been much discussion and speculation as to what causes this. It does seem to occur only with late - 04 and up V8 Touaregs with the "sport" exhaust that replaced the "std"(?) exhaust used on the majority of the 04s.
Observation: I looked very closely at the heat shields, looking for ways they could rattle. On the passenger side (LHD), the heat shield has three main sections:
- Front: around/near the secondary cat (tightly secured)
- Rear: around/near the rear differential (tightly secured)
- Middle: between the two mentioned above (loosely secured)
The three sections overlap a little where they meet. It was very easy to tap on the middle shield and make a loud metallic sound. I put my finger between the two shields (where they meet) to isolate the two metal pieces and tapped again, and the noise was gone.
Theory: The harmonic resonance of the exhaust under load vibrates the middle heat shield and it rattles against the front and/or rear shields. As the shields heat up, they flex enough to provide clearance between each other and the noise goes away. This may be unique to the "sport" exhaust if (and I am only speculating) the heat shields were changed (in design or fitment) when they changed the exhaust.
Experiment: I tried a very simple experiment. I slightly bent the edges of the middle shield (~1/2 inch) where it was coming in contact with the front and rear shields. The allowed me to tap rather hard on any of the shields without them rattling against each other.
Result: I make the tweaks to the shields Sunday night. When I drove to work this morning, I put the transmission in sport mode and ran WOT until it shifted. Normally, I would have heard the sound (very loudly) but it was gone. No metallic sound. Not completely convinced, I repeated the experiment on the way home and, again, the sound was gone.
Summary: It was cool out when I was going to, and from, work (64F) and this would normally be the perfect set up for making the sound. I think that tweaking the heat shield has solved the noise on my Touareg. I am tempted to go back under there and pop-rivet a little brace between the shields so that they cannot rattle against each other again. On the other hand, I may just leave it be and do the pop-rivets if the noise comes back.
Anyway, I was excited to find a potential solution for my Touareg and wanted to share it will you all. I will post back after a while and report how it goes in the long term. Lastly, I really liked being able to put the air suspension in xtra-offroad and get under the car (easily) without using a jack....
The engine starts with knocking, rattling, and vibration that lasts for about 5 seconds. It seems to be an intermittent, rare event. With nearly 250,000 Prius in the North American market and the onset of cooler weather, it is time to see how frequently this occurs.
View 19 RepliesThe EMS service in the county next to ours lost one of it's new trucks for a few days on Tuesday. While going on a call, the engine made a tapping sound for only a few seconds, then a loud pop and shut off. Ford dealer went and picked it up and took it in for evaluation. VERDICT: Broken rod and cracked block. I have to say, this is the first I've heard of a 6.7L having a problem like this in our area.
Ford was really interested in this engine, as a new one is already on the way and the old one is to be shipped back for complete breakdown. So far, the Director and County Manager have been impressed with Ford's response to this problem. Dealer has told them the truck should be ready by the middle to end of next week. If I hear anything else, I will let you know. Any engine can break at any time, I'm just glad they are moving quickly to rectify the situation.
Was driving down the highway when I heard a loud explosion.
View 9 RepliesI got in the car today and started it... I was waiting a few seconds for someone to get in the car (it was in the garage) and as soon as the engine kicked on there was a very very large long rattle noise i immediately turned the car off. Waited again and turned it on same noise.. the only thing I found was a cover under the car towards the front was really loose. ( I haven't hit bottom or anything while driving) but I did have the lighted door sills just installed the other day. But it never made that noise..
btw i have 1100 miles on it..I looked under it and is the black dust protector thing supposed to be loose like if I push on it I can make it rattle..
I got home from work today and pressed the power button to shut the car off and the car completely died (door locks and open door dinger worked) and would not restart after multiple attempts. The dash was completely dead. I waited a couple minutes and it started just fine like normal. I went straight to the dealership that does the maintenance to have them look at it and the service manager pretty much told me that they couldn't find anything wrong with it. I have since started, driven and turned it off a few times since without any problem, differences from normal, or warning lights. This is the first time anything has ever acted up after 98500 miles.
View 2 RepliesI have 2012 aqua and it has done 12,000 KM on it. When I press the throttle further, the ICE kicks in and there is a kind of rattling sound coming from ICE at times (not Rev up sound). However, when the car is in idle , the ICE kicks in to charge the battery and that time I hear only engine Rev up sound and not a rattle.
View 14 RepliesI had to drive my wife to SEATAC this morning. I would normally drive my car (Camry), but my trunk is a mess with muddy tire chains and the back seat is a mess with muddy dog fur, etc.
View 2 RepliesWhen accelerating up a steep grade the engine will ping (rattling metallic sound) when reaching a certain RPM, but stop pinging as I continue to push the accelerator down and increase the RPM. Should I be concerned? Could it be something else, loose exhaust heat shield or something? Or is this normal behavior for a gasoline engine? My old Honda Fit never had engine ping/knock that i can recall in its 200,000km of service running the same 87 octane gas.
View 15 RepliesFor the past few months I've been hearing a loud fan-like buzzing noise coming from the passenger side of the front of the car. I don't know that much about cars, but it almost sounds like the engine is racing or something is spinning too fast. It has gotten increasingly worse, and seems especially loud at high speeds on the highway.
It is not the heating/cooling fan - the noise is present when the heating/cooling system is turned off.
It's been cold, but I've been driving. When I park and power down, I'm hearing a high-pitch sound...like a fàn...it lasts about 10 seconds.
View 10 RepliesUpon starting, my 2002 (160,000) has a rattling sound coming from the passenger-engine side. I just started noticing it and it seems to happen in the morning on its first start up. It doesn't seem to be effecting driving, but not sure if it was something to be concerned about.
View 2 RepliesI just recently purchased a 2006 Avalon Touring. Its been a week now and there has been a loud rattling sound in the rear end of the car. It begins to sound on low RPM, but as soon as i hit high velocity, the loud rattling goes away. Note, sometimes the whole car feels like it would shift to the right; when making a left or right turn. Little scary feels like it's about to flip over.
View 2 RepliesWhen I'm driving over sharp bumps I hear what sounds like a small chain jingling around. I took off the hubcaps and jacked up the car to see if anything loose. I grabbed the exhaust pipe and shook it, but it didn't make any noise. I couldn't see anything that would cause it. The front right strut's rubber cover is off so could the strut make that noise?
I just read a few posts with similar problems, but one was a compression sound and another was a knock, and another was a metallic hick up. Mine is literally like a loose high pitch chain noise and change rattling in your pocket. No uniformity to the sound. But it also only happens over quick small bumps not large ones like speed bumps.
So im trying to diagnose my girlfriends issue with her car. When she starts it, the car will make a very loud rattling sound, not really grinding, but like metal on metal contact. Sometimes the sound goes away, but when the car is cold it is a guarantee. The battery light is also on, which was not the case when the rattle first started. I first thought (and hoped) it was perhaps the serpentine belt tensioner as I researched that when it fails it can make a loud rattle sound.
Once replaced, the same issues occurred. So I went ahead and put the old one back on since it was not the issue. Note that the old one and new one both shared the same tension applied to the belt and the pulley was still smooth without issues.
Using a stethoscope to try to determine the location of the rattle a bit more precisely I found the noise to be coming more from the alternator. Weird because I recently replaced it within the last year. I went ahead and removed the tension from the belt and played with the alternator for a bit. The clutch felt good when i used a screw driver to hold the fan and tried to move the pulley. One direction moved with ease while the other direction refused to budge, perfectly normal as I researched. The thing that I noticed that I thought was unusual was the fact that the shaft of the alternator had some play (Video below).
The belt has plenty of tension on it so i do not believe that it is slipping on the alternator. I push the belt with the tensioner engaged and the tensioner does not budge.
I decided to measure the voltage coming off the alternator with the car running and it was at 10.95 which im pretty sure is very low for these cars.
On a recent road trip, my 2009 Prius began making a loud dragging sound. Pulled into a car dealer at the freeway exit (Mazda) and found the black plastic shield on the front bumper had cracked down the middle and was dragging. I had them remove it to finish my drive home; my question now is, what should be considered a fair price for having this replaced? Last fall, I had a minor accident and had to have body work done on the hood and front fender; should I have the body shop that I used check it out, or stick with the dealer? I'm wondering if the shield might have cracked in the accident and was overlooked. As a single 50-something female, I just want to know what a repair like this might run, so I don't get taken for a ride.
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