I have a 2008 fully loaded Prius.
Keyless entry. it will not lock but pressing the black nubs or via either set keys. It some times beeps or does nothing.
I verified all doors are closed and there is no door open light on the dash. Every time I exit the car the car gives 3 beeps and the key light on the dash flashes.
Not sure if this has been figured out yet. I did a quick search but didn't really find an answer.
View 2 RepliesAll of a sudden, my 2008 prius, basic package without the smart entry system, stopped locking or opening the doors when i pressed the button.
At first i thought it must be a dead battery, so i replaced it with a new one and got the exact same behavior. i checked the old battery and it was still giving off 3 volts as was the new one when i checked that with a volt meter. when i press any of the buttons on the key, a small led light goes on and on the dashboard a picture of a key lights up briefly. the owner's manual does not show the key as a warning light.
For the past 2 days my car has started beeping when I open the door after I push the power button to turn it off. It flashed a red lock type symbol in the lower right side of the screen as well. What this is? I can't find out in the online dash indicators. The beep stops when I push the door lock down and shut the door.
View 7 Repliesin practice, can the horn beep/click sound /another type of noise be disabled - or even turned down in volume - for keyless remotes[*] that activate the alarm?
my '10-or-so Hyundai Elantra horn beeps upon the second time the lock button on the keyless remote[*] is pressed. The second time the lock button on the keyless remote is pressed, the car alarm system is supposed to be activated. The system itself works perfectly. I think this is the way every keyless remote/car ever made works.
I cannot find any instructions - in the car manual or otherwise (yes I have the car manual...)- for how to prevent the horn from beeping as described. If the door is open while the button is pressed the second time, the horn does not beep. I have been doing this preferentially. However, there is no indication that the alarm system is active - and I have not yet attempted to open the hood or anything like a fake break-in after the alarm system activates. I have not brought this up with any Hyundai service center... I don't think they can handle such an unusual question.
Just picked up my MK7 GTI.. It's a Manual SE and has Keyless entry.
Any way to make the keyless entry open all doors when initiated?
I've recently purchased an off-lease 2007 Sonata and have the following question about the keyless entry. When I unlock the doors I notice that there is a short flashing of parking lights, however when locking the doors with the remote there is no indication.
I believe the manual says there ought be a short chirping which I am not hearing. The remote is just for keyless entry (no alarm is present). While this may be related, I find the horn sound is not very robust (actually quite puny). Is this normal for this car?
I have prius 2007 of the Japanese make (140k miles). Yesterday, my keyless fob stopped working. I couldn't use it lock/unlock my car; however, it is starting the car just fine. I replaced the batteries on the fob but no avail. The small red light on the fob is shining like normal. There is no abnormal behavior in the car otherwise. What should I check?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius with keyless entry and start fob. My battery went dead, got a jump, took it to Toyota dealer. They checked my battery and they said it is a good one just recharged for me. Then when I tried to start my car without inserting the key, it would not work. I asked the service person and he said I would have to come back and pay $110.00 for them to reprogram. Can I do this myself? It was working before my battery went dead. This happened once before but did not lose the keyless function.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Prius. The remote keyless entry just stopped working for locking and unlocking the doors. I replaced the battery and it didn't affect it's performance. The key will still start the car without inserting it into the dashboard. It feels like the unlock portion of the remote is "stiff" and does not depress. It is toyota model number B31EG.
View 2 RepliesI noticed today that the red (panic) button cover is lost from my keyless entry (silver Toyota logo) Gen II 2008 remote.
What I basically need is a broken remote, essentially just that red rubber cover.
I have a 2005 Pruis and the remote entry does not work. Changed the battery in the remote and I still have to put the remote key in slot to start the car. Been working fine for ten years.
View 5 RepliesRandomly, the remote keyless entry system of my 2009 Jeep Wrangler will fail to unlock the doors. When this happens and I then use the key in the door the alarm goes off. As soon as I insert the key in the ignition the alarm will deactivate (as it should). After the first few times I took it to the dealer and a computer was replaced. It kept happening. I took it back to the dealer and now they claim that it is normal! If I use the key to unlock the doors otherwise, no alarm. So, why the periodic failure?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1995 Dodge Caravan le which is in perfect condition throughout. But recently the interior lights stopped working when the doors are opened and when the keyless entry thing is activated. The overhead lights do work when manually pressed but the dashboard switch that is supposed to turn them on when in the far right position doesn't do anything. If I hold the drivers door open and push in the activation button on the door jam, I can hear the relay clicking but nothing happens. My mechanic said he thinks it might be a bad computer part and will replace it but didn't really want to. I can't find a fuse for the interior lights so don?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Lexus GS 300 and I have had the car for almost two years now. I have noticed that when I use my keyless entry button to unlock and lock the car, its not as loud as it was in the past. My key fobs all have new batteries in them (2 kays for the car). Could this mean that I need a battery soon? When I first got the car, the "beep beep" noise from when you lock and unlock the car was louder, now you can barely hear it.
View 2 RepliesKeyless entry stopped working on driver's door, but still works on passenger door and hatch. Pushing the buttons still works. I already changed the battery in the fob, so it's obviously a problem with the sensor in the door handle.
View 5 RepliesI was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
Let me start by saying the car is the 2002 ford focus and has a remote starter keyless entry and alarm that has been in stalled years ago so the one day I'm trying to go inside my car and the unlock button on the key fob doesn't work so I put the key in the door and open it all the doors unlock.
I ignored it when I'm leaving the car I lock it with the key fob it chrips then my son rushes outside and opens the door. That's when I noticed the door didn't lock then I try the door switch to lock and unlock the doors but nothing happens I tried the passenger switch nothing
Symptoms : Both driver and passenger door lock switches are not working If I hit the unlock button twice on the key fob all the doors unlock...
This just started tonight. The double beep and blinker flash still works when unlocking, but now when locking...it no locker beeps or flashes the turn signals. It also doesn't dim the interior light if I hit it twice.
The car locks, just no beep/ flash.
My keyless entry didn't work this morning on the way to work....the parking lights came on and stayed on awhile but no dice on unlocking. I figured no biggie and tried to unlock the door with the key...the door lock won't rotate. I went in the house and tried keyless again with the spare keyfob....still nothing. I didn't have time to keep messing around so I just drove my car today. It's a 2012 F150 w/ a little under 6K miles.
View 7 RepliesIt's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.