Prius (2004-09) :: Key Fob Don't Lock / Unlock Door But Starts Car
Jul 8, 2014
I bought a used 05 prius about 3,4 years ago. It came with only one key, but everything was fine, except for few minor things. I have changed 12v battery within a month of purchasing this car, to optima yellow top as many priuschat users suggested.
I bought another black logo fob (non-SKS) on ebay, and get a spare key, but no luck. I was trying to do as fast as I can, but the anti theft light never came and stayed on (entering programming mode).
All of sudden, I noticed the fob doesn't lock/unlock the vehicle, but still starts the car. Since then, i unlock with metal key, then start with key fob. Manual door lock/unlock button works fine at driver side. However, when i try to lock the door from passenger side manually, it unlocks the door right away.
Thinking about getting a mini vci cable with techstream to setup a key fob after checking the 12v battery. but it only have been 3,4 years, seems it is too early to replace 12v battery.
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Prius owner, Just bought it 3 days ago! 2007 no nav system, but the key fob is the silver logo and has the key button on the lower dash...so I assume it is a smart key system. However, the key fob will not unlock or lock the car, the panic button doesn't work either. The car will only start with the fob in the slot.
Why will it start the car only in the slot? I changed the battery out in the fob and it still didn't lock/unlock. I didn't try the smart key start with the new battery...I don't even know if I have a smart start. Why does it not open/lock the car?
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1) This is not battery problem, because smart function is work. If battery dead , smart function complete dead, and I change 2 new battery.
2) sometime smart fob can remote lock door. but 99% is not work. I don't know why.
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2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
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Recently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.
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All other doors lock and unlock except drivers door. The drivers door can only be locked unlocked manually with your hand.
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On the passenger door the proximity sensor stopped working. 2014 PP. When I touch the door with the FOB in my pocket it does not unlock. If i swipe my finger on the door handle with the fob in my pocket it does not lock.
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When I use the remote to lock/unlock the doors the drivers side door won't activate . . . .unless it's really cold outside. The other 3 doors work year round.
Sounds weird but as the weather gets colder the lock on the drivers door will start to work. As winter turns to summer here in Illinois it starts to act up again. When it does work, it seems that unlocking works more consistently than locking.
Asked the dealer to have a look at it. They said it was a "weak actuator motor" and suggested to replace it. Sounds bogus to me.
I've tried to have a look down there but I'm afraid to take it all apart for fear I won't be able to get it all back together. Are there adjustments that can be made to the linkage or are lubrication points that might get this thing back working again . . . . . . all year long?
I also noticed that manually working the passenger side lock will lock the rear doors but won't lock the drivers door so it's not the remote. I never paid attention to whether manually working the driver side lock would lock the other doors but I think not since the buttons are right there on the drivers door.
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Just bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
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I own a 2001 Honda CRV and have realized that I will never own another Honda because it has had many of the exact same problems that my old Accord did. Seems certain things just break on Hondas. However, unlike the last car, I have decided that doing the repairs myself would be a cheaper way to fix these minor problems. To the point: A few months ago, my driver's side door lock started acting up. (Note: I quit using the keyless entry a long time ago and simply use the key). At first, it randomly wouldn't lock/unlock along with the others. However, simply using the key or pushing/pulling on the lock knob did the trick. As time went on, the lock got more and more stubborn. Eventually, it took turning the key (hard) at the same time as pulling on the lever to unlock the door. Locking it still was not a problem. Now, even that does not work, and the only way to unlock it is to pull hard on the outside handle while pulling on the lock knob (this requires the window being down and is therefore impractical for any kind of daily use). Hence, I am resigned to climbing in the passenger door. After reading that Hondas usually have this problem and that it is usually the door lock actuator that is the problem, I purchased a new lock mechanism and actuator (I figured replacing the entire thing couldn't hurt...). So, I have replaced the entire mechanism within the door. However, the problem is still exactly the same. What else could this be?
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I have a 2008 Camry Hybrid with about 125k miles. A few thousand miles ago the door locks have been displaying portions of the following issues and then finally ended up with all these issues described:
Driver door lock: (OK)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
- Power door lock switch locks and unlocks door
Front passenger door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on this door or driver door, does NOT lock/unlock door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear right door lock: (Intermittent Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, works
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger doors intermittently fail to lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
Rear left door lock: (Issue)
- Opening door when in locked state by using latch, does NOT open the door
- Power door lock switch on driver and passenger door does NOT lock/unlock this door
- Manually toggling lock/unlock on the door works
What specific parts would need to be replaced?
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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Second time I've had this problem this winter. 2007 Prius, about 65K miles. When the outside temps go below 20 or so the car locks seem to not want to work. For example this morning temp was about 19, smartkey unlocked the car ok-took a couple of button pushes but it worked. Car started fine. Drove to work and after shut down couldn't lock the car. Smartkey didn't work, pushing the door button didn't work. Lock switch inside the car works, so I locked the doors except driver's then used the manual key to lock the driver's door.
I've checked the battery using the internal maintenance screens, no load voltage about 12.3V, Load voltage 11.7Volts, Charging voltage 14.3 volts. I know I'm due for a 12V battery with it being 5 years old and such, and I'm pretty sure a good cold day will kill it dead. But, other than the battery...
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I am experiencing with my key fobs on my current 2004 Prius. The issue is that I am unable to unlock and lock the car via the SKS Remote, and I am only able to turn on the car via inputting one of the fobs into the slot to turn on the car.
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My daughter picked up an 08 Base, option package #1 yesterday. It has 166K miles and checked out okay by me (coolant moving by inverter pump, no signs of water in spare tire well...etc.). The car only had 1 key fob (non-SKS) wit no spare key or fob. The key is uncut but the remote starts and runs the car. The remote will not lock or unlock the doors.
The first thing I did was replace the CR2032 battery with no change. It still operated the car but not the locks. I noticed that the little red light wasn't coming on when pushing the buttons and found the red panic button was stuck. Took care of that and thought all was good until I tried to lock and unlock the doors again. Nope! Light comes on, works in slot to start the car, but not the locks.
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I have to use the mechanical key on the SKS to open the door, then plug into the slot on dashboard to start the 2004. Replaced battery, nothing changed.
There are two causes I suspect:
1. The CR2023 Battery was bought on Amazon for cheap, about 6 month ago. What's the voltage should be if no load?
2. The plastic cover on the SKS was broken. It could be that rain or not-so-clean-water gets into the electronic part.
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I just bought a used 2005 from a small dealership just today.. It does not have SKS (no black buttons on the door handles).. But, the dealer said it had a key problem, so he discounted the price.. He said that the keyfobs can start the car, but can't lock/unlock the doors.. He gave me 2 keyfobs, but I'm not even sure if either of them are the original ones that came with the car.. I think they might both be used keyfobs from other cars..
In other words, I don't have a master keyfob that can unlock the doors yet.. I always have to take out that darn physical key to unlock it every time..
I've looked around lots of threads already, and all it does is confuse me..
I know you can do some weird "chicken dance", but it seems like you already have to have a master keyfob that can unlock the doors, right?.. And I know there are "2 sides" to the keyfob: a "prox" one, and some thing else (I forget)
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I just bought a new 2006 prius and have an issue with the FOB (it's pretty beat up from use -- ordered a new housing for it)...
It works great for locking and unlocking the car with the key in pocket, but as soon as I sit down to turn on the car, I get the beep and key icon flashing on the dash and no activity.
Only when I insert the key into the slot will the car turn on. The Key disable button under the steering wheel is not engaged.
Again, it recognizes for locking button and unlocking when I touch the handle, but I have to physically plug it in for the car to start....
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The dear wife crashed our 2004 Prius, crumpling the entire bumper and left front side. The body shop has fixed everything nicely, with one small exception. There is no longer the reassuring beep(s) when using the fob to remotely lock or unlock the doors. The lights flash, as before, and the panic alarm still works.
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Wife just called with a weird one. She said the doors won't lock - using either the key fob or using the door lock/unlock button on the car interior. They will lock, and then immediately unlock. Won't stay locked.
Since the car isn't here, I'm shooting in the dark, but I'm having her check:
Make sure all doors are properly closed/latched. Push a button on the key fob to see if the LED lights up (I changed batteries a year ago).
Couple of searches showed up:
Potential issue with lights on when car is turned off (never had this issue before). Someone mentioned a switch below the dash to right of steering column.
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I have a problem with one of my key fobs. It does not lock/unlock the doors or open the hatch but it still starts the car. The red LED light flashes for an extended period of time too. The other Key Fob is working fine.
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