Prius (2004-09) :: Keeping Engine Running To Full Charge Battery
Nov 13, 2012
I have posted separately about my 'supposed' dead HV dead battery. The charge was down to one bar and the the system didn't allow ICE to start for recharge. I finally got a reading of a about 207 volts today and when I fiddled with the start button on and off a few time today, the ICE started. After about 15 sec.
It indicated it was pumping juice into the battery. When it finally got up to about 4 bars it turned off. I had to move the car off the tow dolly (it's home for the past week) and did so in electric mode even though there was a Ready on the display the engine never came on. Before maneuvering it around much I tried to get the ICE to start again to recharge the battery, now down to 2 bars.
By pressing the gas in park and neutral, it would start and rev up but never generated any power to the battery. Fiddled around with the power button some on/off/on, etc. until I got the ready light and sometimes it would start charging but only once did it charge to 6 bars and usually stopped as soon as there were 4 bars.
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I've had my C a week and a half and it is doing great, but I wonder if the system is ok. It has never shown the battery at 100%. My Civic would charge all the way quite often.
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Why the battery never charges to full capacity in the battery level indicator on the LCD screen? It never goes over 6 bars out of the 8 bars so it only gets to be 3/4 full.
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Here's whats going on. Battery goes from full charge to dead and back very fast. Assuming its a battery issue I removed the battery and volt metered every cell
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I don't plug my PiP in often due to the cost of electricity here, but what I have noticed that when it has a full charge, around 13Miles, it will quickly drop down to 7-8, even when not using EV. Meaning, I start up car, turn off EV and the motor gets warm. Engine shuts off and I drive normally using the ICE. Over the course of a few miles, I'd say about 10, that EV range slowly drops down to 7-8 and then maintains itself around there. Pretty much the whole time I would have been using the ICE to maintain ~70MPH on the highway, not climbing, just flat.
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When stuck in traffic jams, and my 2004 Prius shows 2 bars on the HV battery charge, it attempts to start the engine to maintain the charge on the HV battery. What was happening was the engine would attempt to start and then it would immediately die. It would keep repeating this process, over and over again, and would not charge the HV battery. Once I started driving out of the traffic jam, the engine ran fine and it charged up the HV battery while I was moving down the road. I decided to clean the throttle body. My charging problem did change due to me cleaning the throttle body. Instead of starting and immediately dying, over and over again, the engine no longer dies.
It now revs up, and slows back down to idle over and over again when sitting still with 2 bars of charge. The display does not show any charging going on during this revving up and slowing down episode. I need some more hints as to what to check out. I am studying electrical diagrams of the vehicle, but I need a synopsis of which system starts the engine for HV charging, and which system keeps the engine revving at the same RPMs during charging while not in motion. The throttle body cleaning made my 257 K mile Prius run like a scared deer again. I just need to get her charging while sitting still again. 12 volt charging system is in the 14+ volt range and 12 volt battery with no load is around 12.2 volts.
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My daughter recently bought a 2006 Prius with 170K, Car was running great at purchase time with no issues but unfortunately the honeymoon was short lived. Less than 50 miles, she got the check engine light and red triangle. Car seems to still to drive fine. Had a dealer near Knoxville TN pull the codes and the only code was a P0A9C - Hybrid Battery Temperature (Sensor A) Range / Performance. Was informed also as they checked history on the car that another dealer had recommended a new hybrid battery and inverter. Dropped by the other dealer today to get the codes that they had seen. The codes they had pulled at 169K on the vehicle were:
P0A80 - HV Battery Cell Delta State of Charge Fault.
P3016 - either a bad cell, or a shorted cell in the hybrid battery
P0A08 - dc/dc converter status circuit.
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So, I noticed after the week long heatwave (using Priidash and the Prius display) that during normal driving (under 65mph and slow accel) that my prius is NOT keeping the battery at 60% SOC....It is staying in the low 50's or as low as 39.5%....If I go above 70mph, I see the battery being drained and not recharged at all....I reset the battery (twice) the first time it made no difference but the second time the car turned on and said I had 60% SOC when in reality before the ECU reset I was at 49.5%. I know my battery is good because I have stress tested it many times. Its in great shape. The only thing I've done differently these past few weeks is I left the car in Park with the AC on 75 auto for about 5hrs on 4 different days....Its a 2004 Prius.
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I have Prius 2005 , there is no problem and no registered error code,but the problem occur when i drive my car on long down road and the HVB is full then the charging sound rise ,its like "B" mode on high speed,this sound continue while pressing on the break pedal or not but when i press on the fuel pedal or convert to transmission to "N" mode the sound return to normal ,but if i press on the break or leave my leg the sound return again,this happen if the battery is full but when the battery loss some charge everything return without any problem.
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I still have my 2004 Prius which currently has 264,xxx miles. The car runs very well (at least I think it does). I have always maintained it beyond what was required. Anyway, it has been very, very hot lately in south Florida (high 90's plus 50% humidity) so I do not know if that has anything to do with my problem. I have noticed that after I have driven the car for a while the engine periodically turns itself on when I am at a stoplight even though the battery shows practically full (full blue). The engine will continue to stay on until I resume driving. I have the AC on full blast as it is needed to keep the cabin cool. Otherwise, the car seems to be performing satisfactorily.
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I have a vehicle I am storing for the winter, but do want to start it up on occasion just to keep it fresh. my question is this. I put a trickle charger on the battery to keep it charged up, its one of those chargers you can leave on indefinitely, once the green light goes on the charger, it goes into maintanance mode. but I've had the charger on for a week now and it seems the battery won't take a full charge. to put the battery charger into maintance mode. is it dangerous to keep charging a battery that won't fully charge up?
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I recently acquired a 2000 Golf GTI 1.8 20v that came with a few preexisting issues, one of which being that the alternator will not charge the battery. I've checked my voltage while running "starting with a full charge" and it slowly but steadily declines from 12.09 to 11.0 over a 2-3 minute time span. On the dash the battery light is on and never turns off and my radio does not work at all "even with a full charge". I have already replaced my alternator, battery, battery cable, and the two relays in the engine compartment. The relays in the engine compartment were causing a "ghost" amp draw but that has been resolved. I do not have a 109 relay as I have read that this could be the culprit, when I examined the "under-dash" panel I found that my panel does not have one. I have also replaced the 30amp fuses in the engine compartment fuse box and cleaned the grounds.
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My neighbor's kids truck battery drains from full charge to "no start" in 1-2 days. 1999 Ford F-150 w/ 4.6L engine. He has already.....
1) Replaced the Battery.
2) Replaced the GEM module.
3) Replaced the Turn Signal Relay.
He did all this before I looked at it....
I checked the following....
1) Truck off, doors closed, hood open... Amp meter shows 3.6 amp draw. When 1st hooked up, shows 4.2 amps... after a while drops to 3.6.
2) To isolate the draw, we pulled fuses while checking current draw at battery.
a) Under Dash fuse Panel. (Yes, with door closed) We remove fuse #15 "stop lamp switch, speed control, brake shift interlock, ABS, PCM,GEM, RABS test connector". (Really... couldn't be more stuff?)
b)Under the hood is another fuse box (drivers side). We remove Fuse #103. "Junction Block Battery Feed".
3) Found that if we remove the #15 fuse under the dash with the door opens, all interior lights flash on/off at about 1 second intervals... weird.
4) Again, another weird one... with the fuse #15 removed and door closed, the "ABS" indicator and some other indicators and dash lights are staying partially lit... not fully lit.
5) The only "aftermarket" stuff i can see is a dealer installed trailer brake system. Wiring looks professional and disconnecting it does not remove the amperage drain.
I'm hoping that one of you wizards will give me the "slam dunk"... if this happens, it must be that. Can I be so lucky? And, yes. I have my own '06 F-150 that i absolutely love. 6-cyl., manual trans, stripped down without even power door locks... my kinda technology.
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For the last few weeks, it has seemed that the battery gauge on my 2002 has been half full more often than it should. I admit that I have no good science for this determination, but about half the time when I return home from work the gauge shows half full, and it returns to full after about 1 - 2 miles of driving. The car has about 122K miles on it.
Today I took a long drive through some pretty steep terrain toward the New River Gorge in WVA. Round trip it was about 750 miles. On the way home, I got an error on the console. I'm not sure what it was, but on the main display there were three boxes with writing. I didn't read them as I was pulling off to the shoulder. By the time I got there, the warning was gone. I turned the car off and restarted it. Everything looked good and I headed the remaining 10 miles home.
Once home, when I turned the car off, I heard a vibrating noise from (I think) the left side of the hood for about 5 - 10 seconds. I turned the car on again, and there is a vibrating sound, and the same turnoff problem.
Is this the final death knell of my traction battery? I have a 120K servicing due about now. I have been planning a reinvolt battery, but it is a bit of a drive away. Should I consider trailering the car down?
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Does the engine turn on and off frequently lead to a lower engine life? I have always heard that the biggest wear on an engine happens when it is turned on. If the oil is draining from the Prius engine each time stops it seems like there would be a lot of engine wear.
Does the Prius (2010) engine have some way of keeping the engine lubricated when it is turned off?
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I recently purchased a used 2007 prius. The car has not been driven for some time. I won it in an auction from a used/wreaked car lot and am in the process of fixing it up. I need to know if it is possible to charge the hybrid battery when the car is idling or will this only discharge the hybrid battery and if so, is there any way to charge the hybrid battery other than driving the car?
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The symptoms are: HV Battery loses almost all charge over night. Sometimes it won't start. HV battery loses charge fast while cruising in the city (I used to see it getting green at the highways with cruise control and now it doesn't happen). Red warning light goes on randomly.
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I have a problem I can't figure out. 06 Prius with 105k.
Current codes: P3000, P3020, C1259, C1310, C1378
Car will run and drive but is in limp mode
HV battery fan is at full blast, but charge does not fluctuate
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I just purchased a 2004 Prius. When I am driving the battery seems to work fine but yet the battery loses charge when I am sitting in the car while running on idle. The battery goes down to 2 bars and the engine has to kick in to charge the battery. I have no check engine lights. Does this mean my battery needs to be replaced? If so then what are your thought on rebuilt batteries.
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I got my car about 2 month ago, and i started to understand how she is working ( how the hybrid cars works in general ), in my daily trip, there is about 5 mile flat road, sometimes when I reach this road SOC shows 3 bars only and its not enough for EV that 5 miles road, but if the battery have more than 6 bars i think it will do the job, and if you will ask me why you don't charge it through the car movement, the answer is very simple, because I am gilding the car before getting that flat road, so, is there any why to force the ICE charging the HV battery?
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My 2006 Prius battery is not holding a charge very well. About a month ago I had rodents in the engine and had both my stereo and wiring harness replaced at the dealer. I've noticed that every morning the Energy Monitor screen shows only 2 purple cells left in the battery. It always recharges as I'm driving it, but then it loses its charge after siting still a few moments. No idiot lights are on. I've done the DIY system check mode and everything says OK, except audio- it shows "check" in red. Also, my 12v battery is at 11.9. (I replaced my original 12v battery several months ago with no problems).
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