Prius (2004-09) :: Jolt When Petrol Engine Switches Off
Mar 13, 2012
I've a 2004 Prius. Had it for 3 years. 40,000 miles. No problems what-so-ever. 55 to 60mpg without any effort.
During the winter I noticed that when the petrol engine switched off - there was a jolt. (It used to be totally imperceptible.) Nothing drastic - I have to be on smooth tarmac to notice.
My Toyota dealer said this sometimes happens in cold weather. However, the weather has warmed up - and I can still feel the jolt.
Don't know if it's connected, by the central display diagnostic check tells me...
EMV. Code: 01-DC. Sub-code: 1C6-F6-1
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I am pretty new to Toyota Prius. Today I went to test drive a jap import 2nd Gen 1.5 Prius with 50k miles. What I found weird with the car was that, on the startup the petrol engine also started and it was on for the duration I was driving. I then turned on the EV mode and the petrol engine turned off but looking at the battery capacity on the screen, the battery drained pretty quickly possibly (2-3 minutes) and the petrol engine kicked in. Is this normal for 2nd gen prius cars ?
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Its a 2005 model with 45000 miles on the clock, so low mileage for the year. The problem with it is the engine starts up ready fr a journey, and as soon as the accelerator pedal is pressed, the engine cuts out.
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I bought my 2006 Prius used and I had just put it over 100,000 miles. The dearlership has replaced the HV battery under warranty and suggest that I replace a slightly leaking waterpump and cracked belt, said nothing about the transmission.
My concern is, my transmission. When the car switches from electric to the gas engine, the car jumps a little bit, and it's an obvious and not smooth shift. And when I put it in Park, the vehicle rocks back and forth a bit, shifting a few inches before coming to a still position. Is this standard with other 2006 Prius? I drove my friends 2007 Prius and the shift seems smooth and it doesnt rock when you put it in park. Should I be concerned and if so what should I do?
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I have a 2.4 Petrol, 16 valve engine in my Santa Fe which produces a rattle on startup when cold. When warm it starts normally. Oil and filter change makes no difference. Timing belt changed 40K ago. No other effects felt with regard to power or noise once initial noise/rattle has stopped after 2 to 4 seconds.
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I just purchased this car & thought there may be a learning curve to dealing with the brakes, but I think it may be abnormal.
When braking, I apply more & more pressure smoothly down on the brakes, but no matter how evenly, slowly, and smoothly I try to remain when braking, there is a point when it abruptly brakes to jolt the passengers forward and make me look like a terrible driver, lol. It provides for a smooth decline in speed until I'm almost stopped, then it does it. Jerks us to a stop. So I've learned to apply even pressure and right before that is about to occur, lift up on the brakes and restart that slow pressure to avoid it happening.
I can deal with this because it's not that big of an inconvenience once I've gotten used to it, but I am just worried it may turn into something more or who knows, could be an easy fix. I had the car inspected by a Toyota dealership before I purchased it, and they said that everything was in great condition aside from windshield wipers. It has 81,000 miles, one owner, clean carfax.
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I've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
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I have recently purchased a 2003 Subaru Baja Sport, the car of my dreams! I purchased the car in NC and drove it where I live in SC which is over 250 miles. The car smelled of petroleum based fluid and/or cleaner. I just thought the dealership cleaned the engine or oil may have been spilled during maintenance. A few weeks later, I had it in the dealership and they checked out. The head gaskets were replaced and the problem was to be solved…Nope!
Every time the car is driven on a long trip and the engine/transmission gets hot the smell returns and there are other problems as well. The car will shutter from start through the gear change to 2nd (it’s a manual 5-speed). It also has a “bumping” sound coming from the from the front wheel area during a sharp turn at low speeds, again only after a long trip.
I am clueless to what the issue could be and my dealership/mechanic cannot determine the cause either because of the necessary drive time to get the car to present the issues.
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I have had my Prius for a few weeks now and have noticed a very strong smell of petrol when I have the vents open to heat the car (without AC). It seems to only happen when the fan is on and vents open. What could cause this and should I be concerned?
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Our 1994 Suburu Legacy runs on Petrol or LPG. For some unknown reason, there is a strong petrol smell in the car. When this happens, the car will eventually stop and the engine stops. There is power, but the engine will not start. Several minutes and many attempts later later, it starts. What may be happening?
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I have a 2010 euro spec GTI DSG with 140.000 km (86.000 miles)
The problems i have..
- Rough vibrations.
- The car starts quick but there is big jolt when the engine fires, shifts or turns of.
What has been done to the car
**New mechatronic 30.000 km ago (replaced with new revision on warranty)
** Oil , filter , plugs
** Carbon cleaning by myself yesterday
** DSG calibration done
** No errors codes
I am thinking its mounts to the engine or transmission? Other things I am thinking of ...
- Coils packs?
- PCV?
- MAF?
The car is little low on power as it struggle on uphills on low speed, but much better after carbon cleaning.
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I have a Gen III Prius 2010 with about 50k on it. I've noticed over the past month that when the ICE shuts down at a stoplight, the car will surge forward a bit. If my foot isn't on the brake really hard, it will translate to the car actually moving forward until the ICE is totally off. If my foot is on the brake hard, you can feel it push against the brakes, and then the car settles back in place. It doesn't happen every time, so it still takes me by surprise.
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My 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
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I notice my Prius sometimes turns-off the engine & runs pure EV when cruising at 40-45 miles/hour. Sometimes for a few miles! That seems very inefficient vs. taking power directly from the engine:
- Gasoline--->burn---> transmission--->wheels
- 1 state transition (chemical-to-mechanical)
- Gasoline--->burn--->transmission--->generator--->store in battery--->extract from battery--->motor--->wheels
- 5 state transitions
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OK maybe not 20 switches yet but I'm sure by the time I'm done I'll end up with 20 or more switches.
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I have an 04 f-150 supercrew 4x4 lariat with 103k miles that has a pretty bad vibration between 45-50 after it switches into overdrive, when you turn overdrive off the problem goes away. I've taken it to the dealer and they put shutter guard in it an said to let it work through for a couple hundred miles. It still hasn't gotten any better, what it is?
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I have a new 2013 Prius C2 I bought a couple of weeks ago.
I listen to a lot of am talk and it works fine. Problem is when I start my car it automatically switches over to FM.
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My car has around 160k miles on it and for the past 30k miles (give or take) I have had a jerking sensation when the car switches from gas to electric. It is a stronger jerk at low speeds and more like a shimmy at 40-50 mph. It has progressively gotten worse with time, I mean it's by all means drivable but I have been trying to figure out what could be wrong before it has to be replaced and I'm on the side of the road.
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Even though my climate control system is not in auto mode, it still has a mind of its own. When I run my a/c, the airflow intensity level changes, and the system switches to defrost about every 5 minutes or so (even when there is absolutely no need for defrost). I continually have to set the system back to my comfort level. What causes this, and how do I fix it?
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I'm experiencing issues with the radio when I change from AM to FM. If on AM mode and I go to audio button or on Steering Switches and push FM, it switches to FM reception (get the radio station on FM) however read out on the screen still says AM and all the presets are in AM mode.
On the reverse from FM to AM same occurs.
Is this a software issue?
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I have noticed that all of my switches light up at night with a greenish glow. The only ones that don't are the mirror control switches and the dash light control bright and dim switch. Its hard to see these switches at night because its in dark side to the left of the steering wheel . The 120 volt switch will light up when you turn it on but there is no back light to any of the switches I mentioned . If they are supposed to light up then my truck needs to have the bulbs replaced.. If they are not supposed to light then I will look no further
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