Prius (2004-09) :: Intermittent Engine Light While Braking / Driving
Jun 18, 2015
I have a 2008 Prius. It has been giving me an engine light intermittently while I am driving. My mechanic could not get an error code to show. It mostly happens while braking or while driving a right hand curve on roads at speed. What might be happening?
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Our 2008 with 110,000 mi is intermittently displaying CEL. First appeared about 3 wks ago. I took gas cap off and then put it back on and let car sit overnight. Next day and for 10 days no CEL. Then one mornng, at first start, CEL reappeared. Repeated gas cap process that night. CEL disappeared for 6 days. Then CEL came on in middle of day after car had been started and stopped 3 times. Repeated gas cap process that evening with no success. Did the gas cap thing one more time, last night, and today the CEL is off. First time CEL came on was right after a fill-up. Subsequent CEL's have had no relationship to refueling. Car has been nearly flawless for 68 months. Engine coolant pump changed @ 75k. Aux batt changed 24 mo ago.
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So let's start with this. A week ago my dad went to start his car after going to the store. I wasn't there so can't say exactly what happened but when I got there the car would basically go into accessory mode with check engine light VSC and triangle on. Also displayed problem on the screen. I checked 12v battery with just the radio on (one button press with foot off brake) and it only showed 12.0 volts. So I hooked our jump box directly to the battery and it still wouldn't start. I scanned it for error codes and it showed nothing but I could erase them and the lights went off so probably codes from one of the hybrid computers I can't read but the car still wouldn't ready. I unhooked the 12v for about 30 second seconds and the car started fine without the jump box hooked up.
At this point I don't have any codes and with nothing to go off of I'm at a loss. We drive it 8 miles back to our shop and it drove normally with no errors. Once it was back in the shop after turning the car on and off 10 times or so still no errors. On the last time it was in ready mode and the errors came back on, still with no codes I could read. His 12v optima was still under warranty so we got it exchanged for free even though I was reluctant that it would fix the issue. Well a week went by and all seemed to be fine until yesterday.
My dad had left the car in ready mode for probably 20 minutes and when he got back in it all the lights were on. I will also add that the battery fan was operating normally and not screaming like if there was a traction battery issue. I changed one of the modules in his traction battery about 6 months ago when one failed. Without any codes I don't know where to start with this problem. 2005 with 170k miles....
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Just got a diagnostic from the nice people at Prius Battery Repair. Check engine light was on and intermittent red triangle when I make a left turn. Code PO505 came up- Idle control System. I have 162,000 miles and just put in a reconditioned battery that checks out fine.
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I have a 2009 model with 99980 miles. Just this morning while driving to work, the CEL came on, yet no noticeable difference in how the car drives/sounds.
Question: Is the CEL set to come on just before the car reaches 100K miles? I plan to have AutoZone read the codes today, but just wondering if this is a sw program for routine maintenance at the 100,000 mile mark.
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I am a relatively new owner of a 2007 Prius and am curious about a sound I hear quite often while driving.
The sound is similar to a cd changer changing disks my package doesn't have the disk changer). It seems to happen when braking but I haven't pinned it down to one catalyst.
It seems to be a normal sound and I am not worried about it since riding in my roommates '07 Prius and heard the same sound.
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Strange thing on my 2006. Driving on curvy road, would occasionally get just the "Red Triangle" exclamation point (for a second or so) -- and also the word "Problem." would flash up on the display.
No permanent check engine light or other icons lighting up. Still getting 40MPH, everything seems to be driving right. Have 135K on the odometer.
Question - does that triangle thing store codes that can be read by an OBDII reader each time it flashes -- or does the check engine light need to be on?
Second Question - Any clue what the word "Problem." with no description could refer to? It goes away at the same time the red triangle goes away.
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When engaging the engine braking ( B ) function on the Prius IV, do the brake lights come on to warn the driver behind me that I'm slowing down?
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I drove a hybrid prius for the second time ever this past Sunday and drove a whole 22 miles on open roads. This is earmarked to be the parts car, but I believe is actually in better shape than the principal car. Regardless, I'm trying to ensure the motor will be suitable for swapping into main car when needed prior to me pulling it out so I'm tinkering/driving it this next week.
The engine has a misfire, and I suspect that is the reason for the flashing orange check engine light. But what I'm not used to is that the light goes off and doesn't stay illuminated. The light comes on and flashes when any significant demand is placed on the engine-- when I nurse the throttle pedal, I can hear the engine running (I think) and there's no miss. But when I give it throttle the engine starts to miss and the CEL starts to flash. When I slow back down, the engine stops missing and the light goes off.
1) How/why the CEL flashes but then turns off?
The only background I have on this car (2008 at 225K miles) is it was taken out of service with the following writeup:
P0300 Random misfire, 0301 Misfire #1, Po302 Misfire #2 and P0101 Mass Air Flow Stored in ECM. Intermittently car only runs on 2 cyls. Suspect problem with intake due to the fact there is a recall for newer vehicles with the same condition. #1 spark plug continually getting wet with oil. Possible valve guides or ring issue allowing oil in to combustion chamber. To correct engine replacement or rebuild will be necessary.
2) What is this maf recall and might that issue apply to this 2008?
Truthfully, I only need the car to function for ~ 400 miles on a racetrack. I've been reading about the pcv valve replacement and MAF sensor cleaning. I'm considering venting the pcv line into a catch can or into the exhaust stream (to reintroduce a vacuum to the crankcase) and plugging the opening in the throttle body so there's no chance the throttle body is sucking in crankcase oil that's fouling the plugs.
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for the last three days, I had the big red master warning light come up four times during normal braking, also "Problem" was displayed on the LCD where "Add fuel" is displayed when fuel is low. But no error code showed on the OBD reader. I searched found that it might be related to 12V battery which I replaced two years ago.
2008 with 120K miles.
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I have a 2004 santa fe with a 2.7 v6. I have had a little misfire issue lately. I had a major power loss with a check engine light on it lasted for just a minute before it settled itself out. Had the code pulled at a local parts store. P0301 so I checked the plugs and they looked worn out. I pulled the upper intake and replaced the plugs and wires plus the upper intake gasket. I cleared the code and that seemed to correct the problem. Two days later, same thing happened. The engine seems to be running fine now. I wiggled the wiring harness to the injector and to the coil, no change in the way it runs. I was thinking it could be an injector or a coil pack.
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For several months now, my 2007 Prius has been making an intermittent buzzing sound from the engine bay. When I first heard it, I thought I had hit the little lines they cut into the road to let you know you've drifted over the center line - the sound is like that, a low-pitched buzzing noise. Today, the check engine light came on as it was making that noise. I put a code reader on the car and got P1121, a bad coolant flow control valve. Wondering if the sound and the faulty control valve are just coincidental or if the valve might make that noise when it fails? And if not the valve, what the sound might be?
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My 04 Toureg is pulling and drifting to the right when driving (as well as braking). I have not had in to the dealer yet but will soon. 4500 miles.
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I drive a 92 Volvo 240 with under 100,000 miles on it. Previous owner never really drove it, had it for about four years now. During the winter we seem to have electrical issues; back in 2009 I turned the car on after going shopping and drove immediately, while driving I got a green light and was braking around the corner the car just cut out completely. Got it to a mechanic and they replaced the whole electrical system, issues never reappeared for another two years. 2010 only issue was it need a new transmission, so I put in a used one. Four months later, February I believe, this time it would not start at all and it was night time. Got it towed to the mechanic and the next day he called me, said nothing was wrong with it started right up.
Now we are here November 22, 2011 and the car has cut out on me twice in the pas week. The first time was a dark cold night, got it towed to the mechanic and started up the next day like nothing was the issue. The mechanic joked that it likes to play dead and it starving for attention. The second time it was in broad day light and it started about again 30 minutes later.
3 out 4 times my car cut it happened while applying the brake and from a short distance from where it was parked. Also note that during the night during the winter the battery light will have a light glow to it, also when purchased the owner put it a newer radio system, sometimes when the brakes are applied it will cut out, during the winter is when its more common.
After it happened a third time and the mechanics were stumped, I decided to go to a much reliable source.
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2012 Prius V w/24k miles. Have experienced a noise while driving. (best I can describe it is like when moving a straw up and down through the lid on a styrofoam cup). It is intermittent. Have discussed this with the dealer service department at least three times. One tech drove with me said he found a bad front strut which was replaced. It took some time but noise returned. I can hear it when others can't and can feel it through the floor board. It may be muted but also so loud my wife says it sounds like something is going to fall off. Does it at slow speeds across parking lots on smooth surfaces or on road on smooth and rough surfaces in any kind of weather conditions. Will be taking it in for 25k service soon but what to look for.
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For several months, my 2004 VW Passat (1.8L Turbo FWD) has been making an intermittent squeal while driving. The noise is brief (lasting usually a fraction of a second), is loud, screechy and high-pitched (like a belt slipping), sounds as if it's originating from the rear passenger's-side area, and always occurs just after I begin to drive after being stopped at a light or stop sign. It occurs most frequently when I make a left turn (never a right turn) and sometimes when proceeding without a turn. When it's heard while driving straight, it's accompanied by a momentary hesitation in speed, but whether this is just engine hesitation or active deceleration I cannot tell. The problem began in the fall of 2011, stopped during the cooler months (I live in southwest Florida), and began again once ambient temperatures climbed again into the 80's. It usually occurs once or twice per day (but some days not at all) and typically in the afternoons when the air temperatures are warmer. I never hear it when the brakes are applied, and the brakes do not squeal. The noise is not accompanied by any dashboard warning lights.
My local VW dealership claimed that the cause was rusty rotors (as I had recently moved to FL from New England), and I spent several hundred dollars having the rotors replaced, only to have the problem reoccur as I was leaving the dealership's parking lot. I now have an independent mechanic who has been road-testing the car for several days and has heard the squeal once but is puzzled as to its cause. There is no uneven brake wear to suggest that the calipers are being applied unevenly. About 2 months ago, when the squealing noise was absent in the winter months, my mechanic removed a 6mm piece of aggregate which had become lodged beneath the vacuum plate of the rear driver's-side brake assembly. However, a month later, the squeal returned as before. My mechanic is truly puzzled and at this time can only suggest having the rear brakes and calipers replaced.
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I am the new owner of Prius 2008. I have it just a week.
Now, when I drive, I notice the passenger air bag light is always on, whether there is a passenger in the seat or not. Is this normal?
When a passenger sits in the front seat, the air bag "on" signal is illuminated, which stays on and I think this is normal. My question is should the passenger air bag light stay illuminated even if no passenger is in the front seat? Any easy solutions or am I worrying about nothing?
Couple days ago the security system was installed. Maybe the tech guy did something wrong..
I am adding a picture how it looks like ....
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I had a transient warning light appear on my 2008 Prius during a recent drive from the Portland, Oregon area to Seattle . The reason I'm posting this is that this icon isn't listed in the owners manual, nor does it come on when you start up (boot up) the Prius. Also this warning is on the same line as the "ready" and air re circulation icon. On the right side of the display ( the usual low pressure tire, and I think traction control warning icons are on the line below).
This occurred about 135 miles into my drive at the infamous Interstate 5 as you enter Tacoma, Wa ( stop and go traffic) the icon is yellow /Amber a box with 3 yellow squiggle lines which are vertical and cross just past the bottom of the box. After about 15 minutes the warning light went out. It never came back. I have 115k miles and car was recently serviced. I wonder if this is some air flow / ventilation warning. I am overdue to check cabin AF but am unaware there would ce a warning for that. The AC seemed just fine and no effect on the cars performance. Weird.
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Today I test drove the car and was told that the key fob was lost and a replacement was programmed for the car to start...but not locks. But while driving it I noted that the Immobilizer / Theft deterrent light was flashing. Is this normal because everything i'm reading says that the car shouldn't even start. I know that the car isn't stolen because we are planning to take over the loan in the morning for the car at the bank. What I should do. If this is because the key was only programmed without the original then can I simply use this one until I can have Toyota make me a new key for around 350-400 based on what I'm seeing online.
Below is the light that i'm referring to (car with key in it).
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I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder w/ manual transmission that will intermittently kill while driving. Obviously its distressing, but its been a couple months in between incidents, so its hard to take it seriously, because the car will operate normally for long periods of time, but when it kills, especially on the freeway, it can be frightening.
Luckily the car will start again - pop it into neutral and turn the key, stick it back in 5th gear, and keep driving. Previously, but not lately, from a cold start the car would start up briefly (1 second or so), then kill, and if then if you crank it again it would start right up. Not sure how it relates to the issue while driving, but it could be relevant.
I have heard it might be the fuel pump going bad slowly. Not sure on this, haven't replaced anything there yet (cost/time)I have heard it could be an electrical relay (can't remember the exact name) but I did replace that, and still having the issue.
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I have had my Prius for over a year and this has never happened to me before. Two days ago, about 3 minutes after starting driving, the display switched to a rectangle with BRAKING written in the middle with rapid beeps. This flashed very briefly on the display and nothing else happened. There was no one in front of me at a close distance and the cruise control was not engaged. I discarded it as a fluke.
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