Prius (2004-09) :: Immobilizer Not Letting The Car To Start After Trans Swap
Oct 5, 2014
I have an 06 Prius. I bought it with a broken/leaking transmission about 3 months ago. I drove the car home and it sat for a few months, then I drove it into my garage to start working on it a few weeks ago. I just finished up with the trans swap this evening and I went to "start" the car to get the coolant circulating/blead, and the car would not start. I get nothing, I just get a blinking red light in the shape of a car with a key in the center.
I am pretty sure this is the immobilizer symbol. What can I do to reset/fix this? This is my first prius and I have not driven this one more than 50 miles so it could be something silly that I am just not familiar with. This is what I am doing...I get in the car, put the key in the key slot, and I push the brake, then I hit the power button...I get nothing, other than the blinking light on the dash.
I went back out to the car and messed around a little bit. When I put the key in the slot I get what I described above...nothing. But if I don't put the key in the slot, and just push the power button the display comes on but I am not able to shift into any thing other than park or neutral. When I am able to power up with out the key in the slot I get a red car with an explanation point going through it at the top left of the screen.
Then at the display just below the windshield most of the lights stay lit up. What does this point towards? Why would the car not try to go into Drive or Reverse? And what's going on with my key? The only two times I have driven this car i just put the key in the slot and it turned right on and I drove away, now with the key in it will not do anything.
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I have a 2001 Prius and my wife has a 2001 Highlander. I only have 1 master key remaining for the Prius, and both cars use the same transponder type. I had a plain (metal, no transponder) copy made for the Prius, and it turns all the locks just fine. I also followed the master key programming steps with the metal non-transponder key in the ignition, but holding the Highlander key in close proximity to the ignition. It worked! If I have the highlander key on the keychain next to the metal spare Prius key, the Prius will start. The Highlander key is now a 'superkey,' it will start the Highlander, and it will also pacify the Prius immobilizer.
But this is not 100%; if it doesn't sit right on the keychain, I sometimes have to hold the Highlander key a little closer to the ignition to get it to recognize. I
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I bought a new to me 2005. The car came with one fob with the silver logo. The smart key functionality does not work on the car. Lock and unlock works with the fob and I can start and drive with the fob inserted in the slot. Oddly when I push the black button on the outside of the door the red light flashes on the key fob. I have pressed the button under the steering wheel labeled key and that does not seem to change anything. Pressing the button on the door handle causes a long beep to sound.
In addition the light on the dash that is the car with the black key in the middle constantly flashes. It never turns off while driving. I believe this is the same light that acts as the theft deterrent light. I would think that the two are somehow related.
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Today I test drove the car and was told that the key fob was lost and a replacement was programmed for the car to start...but not locks. But while driving it I noted that the Immobilizer / Theft deterrent light was flashing. Is this normal because everything i'm reading says that the car shouldn't even start. I know that the car isn't stolen because we are planning to take over the loan in the morning for the car at the bank. What I should do. If this is because the key was only programmed without the original then can I simply use this one until I can have Toyota make me a new key for around 350-400 based on what I'm seeing online.
Below is the light that i'm referring to (car with key in it).
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Last week my 2008 Prius started making a faint beep each time I let up on the brake after a stop when I remove my foot off the brake. It also will make this faint beep when I let up on the brake even if the engine is not on. It is faint, nothing as loud as the beeps for seat belts or backup. The Prius is not experiencing any warning lights or any other noticeable problem and is running great.
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My 2005 prius with 81k on it just had the Hybrid vehicle immobilizer / Theft deterrent system indicator light spontaneously come on during a road trip where she was heavily loaded for the very first time since I have owned her for over 10 years. I stopped at a rest area and when I got back in it was on...immediately my batteries started draining. They are in 50wh mode which has never happened before, and charge will driving, but if I shut down for even a few minutes they are drained again. The dealer told me this was nothing to worry about and that as soon as they fully charged this would stop.
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I am in the middle of the 7.3 to 6.0 swap and wanted to confirm the in and out lines of each cooler. All the links to the websites that were writeups seem to be dead.
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I am looking to change out my manual transmission in my 79 f150. I want to put a 5 speed in it but still keep my manual clutch. I have a 300 engine that I also want to keep, can I just put a late 80's early 90's 5 speed transmission in it and keep my original bell housing?
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My friend has a 97 Aerostar swb panel van. It's a 3.o with an automatic, with the code of death P1744. For the price of a rebuild, he would rather put a manual trans in it. What trans will fit, and what needs to be done as far as electronics goes?
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Bought truck for cheaper price with no 3rd gear. Went to a reputable yard and picked up a cheaper trans... It was carfaxed with 185K miles and in a rollover. (This is the last time I try to save a couple bucks by getting a cheaper transmission.)
I believe trans is stuck in 3rd gear...Takes off slow. RPMs do not drop..Doesn't shift...Feels like I'm in 3rd from takeoff. Here are the codes:
P2262: Turbo / Super Charger Boost Pressure Not Detected Mechanical
P2614: Camshaft position signal output circuit / open
P2262 again
P1000 On board diagnostics II Monitor / drive cycle test not complete
P0678 Cylinder 8 glow plug circuit
P0672 cylinder 2 glow plug circuit
P0603 Internal control module keep alive memory malfunction
P0720 output shaft speed sensor circuit
B1676 Battery pack voltage out of range
B1318 Battery voltage low
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I have A 1986 ranger with a 2.9 v6. I am thinking of doing a diesel swap and I am wondering what engine and trans combos would work best for this. I was thinking 4bt but there are may other options that could work.
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Ok so I've done a lot of searching but can't find any info on how to repin the harness to use the 2000 4r70w in my 2002. Both are 4x4 and came behind a 5.4.
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My dad has a 2006 F-250 5.4 3v that spun a rod bearing at 107,383 miles. He's never been thrilled with the performance of it (told him he should have gotten the 6.0 when he bought the truck new, but why listen to a 15 yr old ). We've been throwing around a couple different ideas for engine swaps since the 5.4 is dead. We scored a 5.4 2V Lightning engine, but after trying to figure out transmission controllers or if we'd be able to tune the stock PCM for the 2v, we've put the project on hold.
Recently, I've been trying to convince him to do a diesel swap over the L-motor. I have a friend selling a cheap 99 7.3 with trans, PCM, harness, intercooler, piping and other misc stuff. Would that harness generally be plug and play with the body of the 06? Would it be more worthwhile to try to find a 6.0 from 05-07 and swap everything over?
I've also been considering a Cummins swap, although I haven't gone much past looking at complete engines on eBay and Craigslist. Would this be the better route, and just get a standalone controller for the 5R110?
So I'm looking for other's opinions. Should we go 7.3, 6.0 or Cummins? Should we stick with gas over diesel? Try to make the Lightning motor work? Or just go back with a stock 5.4 3V? I should say, he won't sell the truck for whatever reason, so he's not worried about resale or anything. We're in Michigan, so we don't have to worry about emissions. And we're fairly mechanically inclined, so I'm not too worried about doing the swaps, however my knowledge on diesels is limited.
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I have a 2006 Prius with 186,000 miles. The engine developed a knock. I swaped the engine with one from a junk yard. The swap went well. I reconnected the HV battery and the 12v battery. When I tried to start the car I recieve the red triangle with many other dash displays and (!) over the car in the upper left corner of the system screen. I checked for codes with a code scanner, all I can see is $7ea and $7eb. When I clear them the (!) disapears for about 5 seconds and the word problem displays and then tha(!) comes back. The 12v battery reads 12.4 volts.
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Anyway my issue is, my car is turning over but wont start. I notice that it will only start when the yellow immobilizer light comes on and then goes off.
If I try to start when there is no immobilizer light it wont fire up.
I have to take out the key and wait 20 secs. When I turn back on the ignition and I see the yellow immobilizer light, I know it will start?? The immobilizer light goes out when the car starts. Whats up or should I continue what I'm doing...
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my ignition immobilizer would not let me start my 2000 Acura several times during the past week. seems to start fine after a long cool down, or after sitting over night, but after a short trip it acts up, sometimes taking as long as 1 hour of repeated attempts to start. is this something as simple as changing the key fob battery, or is it in the ignition, or is it something in the shifter?? i only have 68k miles.
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I have problem in my VW Passat v6 2002. When insert car key to turn on start Engine, The screen shows an error message: "immobil activated" That means: Immobilizer is activated! And after that car is auto turn off then the Engine shut down in one second with flashing key light! As the fuel tank is empty..
But When I try to start again after an hour / two hours it's works!! This situation comes up if the car was parked from last night until the moment of start on in the afternoon!!! What is strange that this problem does not occur only at the time of day warm, Between 5 and 11 o'clock in the afternoon hot days!!! Because this problem is not never happen in the evening and night.
I go to the Workshop for dellership Car Agency. They re-programmable keys, But the problem is still continuing.
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Have a problem starting Mk7 gti. My car won't start or shuts down and get a message in the display says immobilizer active. Had it towed to the dealer sat overnight and problem started up the next day. They drove it around most of the day and when I picked it up it wouldn't stay started or start and same message on the display came up.
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2011 Sonata Se. Keyless fob will not unlock car or open trunk. Brake lights and overhead lights are all that will light. Immobilizer indicator flashes yellow when start button is pushed with brake depressed, car does not even attempt to start.
Putting fob in console will also cause the Immobilizer light to flash, no start up. Holding start button with foot on brake for a minute does nothing.
Owner's manual says call dealer. Car battery is 1 year old and 2 fobs have new batteries, and neither will work.
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I am having a very frustrating problem with my 2010 Honda Civic. I have had the anti-theft immobilizer unit activate on me 3 different times now, preventing me from starting the car. The electronics in the dash and the indoor lights turn on like normal, the engine will turn over fully as it tries to start (it will even start for a second before the immobilizer turns the ignition off if I put the key in and turn it fast enough). The first time it happened I did not realize it was the immobilizer and attempted to jump it, to no avail.
Had to go to the dealership to get a dummy key with no fob attached to it (there is a chip in the fob that communicates that the immobilizer unit recognizes (or doesn't recognize in this case) and a brake code to enter to get the thing started and back to the dealership. I left it there for them to service, only to have them call me a few hours later and say it started up just fine. The keys weren't the problem, the battery wasn't the problem, they couldn't tell me anything was wrong with it. They didn't charge me for it.
About a year passes and happens to me again last week, stranded in between Austin and San Antonio at a gas station. Tow home, get brake code from dealer, drop off at dealer for service, dealer calls back hours later and can't find anything wrong. Says they scanned the immobilizer unit but came up with nothing. Now it has happened again this morning, this time I got it towed straight there so they can see that the immobilizer has it locked down and maybe they can see something that wasn't apparent last time. I will find out tomorrow what they find.
Faulty Honda immobilizer unit?The battery in the key fobs shouldn't be the issue, as they unlock the car and function properly when the immobilizer unit hasn't thrown a fit. The battery may be the culprit, as I had to get a jump for leaving my hazards on for an afternoon, but I am doubting that since there is no dimming or other noticeable differences with the dash. The tech liaison theorized it might be an A/C relay but I don't have too much faith in his theories since they didn't get it right the first two times.
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Car is driven seldom. Less than 1000 mpy. Initially, it will start on first turn of key. After driving for an hour or so and then letting the car sit and cool down for an hour or so it is very difficult to start. It seems as if pumping the gas finally works but not sure this is making it start or just constantly turning it over is the reason. One individual thinks it's ignition wires that are carbonized and need to be replaced????
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