Prius (2004-09) :: ICE Won't Shut Down - Code P0505
Apr 18, 2013
I recently borrowed an engine code scanner after my check engine light went on and got a P0505 code on my 2004 Prius with 185,000 miles and started to fix things. I replaced the PCV and spark plugs as well as the air filter. It ran fine, but decided to also clean the MAF using CRC MAF cleaner and also clean the throttle body and butterfly using CRC Throttle Body cleaner. I also carefully washed out the engine compartment using Gunk Foamy.
I seem to have put it all back together, but now the ICE won't shut down, even when warm, and actually wants to rev beyond what seems to be needed. I got another scanner and got some stuff that I honestly don't understand. It said 2 codes then gave me P0505 followed by:
Mil On
Monitor 0 inc
6 ready
misfire
fuel
comp
catalyst
evap
O2 sensor
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I had our '04, 149,000 miles in for PA state inspection and emissions test as well as to be looked at because of a P0505 diagnostic code. The symptom of the diagnostic code was that the ICE would not shut at all. The past few months I simply cleared the code (ScanGauge) and things were immediately back to normal until the check engine light came on again.
Anyway, in response to the P0505 today they replaced the air filter (I checked, it is installed correctly), checked for vacuum leaks (all okay) and cleaned the throttle body. My wife picked up the car this afternoon from the repair shop (independent, but mechanic trained by Toyota for Prius). Upon arriving home she said I needed to drive it because it is acting very strange. We drove it this evening and indeed it is acting strange. A number of times the engine revved up to 2800-3000 rpm when my foot was off the gas, e.g. slowing to go around a corner or even when sitting at a traffic light. The SOC was normal (blue bars), not high or low. It was also interesting, because even though the transmission was in D, the car was not pulling to go forward, e.g. at the traffic light-- in D, engine revving, but car just sitting there as though it was idling or ICE off.
The ICE would shut down and go to battery mode appropriately. However I noticed that the mpg would not go about about 110 when backing off the gas going down a long hill at around 50 mph (engine warm, battery normal charge). Normally this would bump it up to around 200.
This latter symptom of mpg not going about 110 is a bit subjective and we only drove around 20 miles this evening, but I know we did not experience the engine revving before the car being serviced today.
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I was driving home the other day and my CEL came on... I checked the gas cap and waited a few days to see if it cleared. When it didn't clear I had the codes read and it came back with 3 instances of P0505.
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I have a 2004 Prius with 196k on it. Over the past 3 months, I have had the P0505 CEL come on about 3 times. After looking over everything and not noticing it running differently, I have cleared the code and kept going. The CEL stays off for a 3-4 weeks, then comes back on.
Yesterday, the light came on and was accompanied by a rougher idle. I checked the code and the only one shown is P0505 reads as Idle Air Control System. I removed the airbox and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray and cleaned the throttle body valve with throttle body cleaner spray. They were both dirty, but didn't seem too bad.
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I have a 2005 Prius with almost 244,000 mile and about a week and a half ago the check engine light came on. I went to an Advanced Auto and had them read the code for me, which came back with a P0505 error code. I have read several things on web that this code is a Idle Air Controller related.
I also have read that this could be to a loose or bad PCV valve, an air leak in the vacuum lines, throttle motor shaft might be binding, or a failed engine ECM.
The car runs and idle just fine, no stalling or a rough idling. The only problem that is obvious is that when the car is warm and I come to a stop or put in park, the motor will not shut off.
Which one of these would cause this to happen? Or could this be due to a MAF sensor that needs cleaned or replaced?
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My check engine light has come on twice now and I'm getting a p0505 code, idle air control malfunction. It seems as though there could be a couple causes for this. All my hoses seem tight, so the cheap fix seems out of the question. What could the other causes be, and more importantly, about how much for a shop to fix it. I have a 2006 with 155,000 miles on it.
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The engine light went on and I took it to my mechanics who is good on everything except Hybrid system.
Immediate after the lights on, I filled gas and the mpg dropped to 31, soon back to 37 on a hot day 85 degree. At red light, I feel the engine still running, not very smoothly. But the next day, it back to normal, mpg also back to 48 something.
My friend has a 2005 with 140K also got the same code. His mpg dropped to 40 and feel that engine power is lower now.
I would like to know if this is a common problem, what's the most probable cause, and if there are many possibilities, what's the best way to approach.
Here is problem area by OBD-II:
Engine and ECT
Hybrid Control
ABS/VSC/TRC
Air Conditioner
Immobiliser
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I made three ten mile trips this evening. On the first trip the "engine" light came on. This is the first time I have seen this light (2004 @ 134,000 miles). ScanGauge reports diagnostic code P0505. The "engine" light remained on through all three trips. Also, I was not able to get the ICE to shut down and run only on battery at all, even though the battery was on the upper level of charge and the engine was warm. There were long stretches where I normally run on battery at around 35 mph. I'm supposing there is a connection.
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My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
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Few weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
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Bought a used 06, 5,000 miles ago. I bought it at a Toyota dealer and before I bought it I noticed the check engine light on, so I made them run the codes. The tech said that it showed the hybrid battery needs replaced. They had advertised it as batteries replaced. So, they replaced the battery that they said was under warranty and all was cool. I love it, but the other day the lights come on and the hybrid light comes on and it won't shut down.
I get it home and run the code reader and get a P3016. Then I erased everything, as soon as I erased it, the battery fan shuts down, I fire it up and everything is perfect, all systems go. take it out the next day and put 200 miles on it before it repeats. I erased the codes this morning and all is fine again.
What I read on the P3016 code is that it is either a bad cell, or a shorted cell in the hybrid battery, but it seems to me that if the cell was bad it should throw the code as soon as you fire it back up? Is it possible that it is a computer malfunction and not the battery at all. I'm leaving my code reader in the car for now so I can reset it the next time it happens.
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I got an 2009 toyota prius I was driving home one day and car shut off and check engine light came on after 10 mins of the car being off I try to turn it on, it started with the check engine light still on main battery light came off, I ran to AutoZone and got my car scan for codes and P0121 was my code tps my car has 120k miles what should I do clean the throttle body? Replace the sensor? How would I test the sensor if it's bad?
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Trouble Code 0505: Vehicle speed idle speed control auxiliary inputs
What would be the auxiliary inputs?
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2002... 184,000+ miles
I was driving the car and triangle popped up and engine would not shut off while parked (key on) I hooked up the non prius aware scanner (carry one with me at all times) and don't remember the code, but it was a "HV malfunction".
I didn't shut the car off to clear the code as I was not home and attempted to drive it home, meanwhile engine never shut off. I had to come to a complete stop at a red light and the car died. tried restarting it but nothing. so I pushed it off to the side of the road and cleared the code. Tried again and nothing. didn't start, nothing. it beeped and error code popped up. Checked the code and it was p3125.
I know there are subcodes but online it was leading to inverter. but I replaced the inverter last year with a re involt. I had the car towed to my job for $50, to have it towed home, would cost roughly $168. When I got it to work, I did the screen thing and checked the 12v battery and it was reading 10.9 I have been meaning to get a new one for about a year now so I did.
I purchased a new optima battery and installed it yesterday, cleared the codes, tried to start it and nothing. error code p3125. What leads me to believe that it may be a transaxle, well actually a Mg2 is when my inverter went bad, it would start then shudder and die then the triangle would pop up. this time around, it doesn't even start. I have an appointment with the dealership to get the code with subcode read on Tuesday 10/15 for $98.7.
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Well, truck did it again last night. Shut down to idle, wrench light came on. My Edge Insight showed P2104, Throttle Actuator Control System-Forced Idle. This is the third time it's done it over several months. Took it to Ford again, they didn't find anything. First time they replaced the throttle control unit. He's talking about RF interference but ignition & alternator checked ok. Each time it's done it has been in the same place, Sacramento Raceway. This is getting ridiculous, can't just drive it & show them because it's only done it over several months period.
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This is a new issue for my 2006 Prius. All seemed to be functioning normally until recently. Now, when my headlights are on, and the highbeams are off (highbeam lever pulled back), when I shut my car off, my highbeams come on. I then have to push the highbeam lever forward to shut them off. When the car is turned back on, if the headlights are turned on, the highbeams come on. I have to pull the lever back to shut them off. In other words, the correct "on/off" position for the highbeam lever is dependent upon whether the car is turned on or off. This has resulted in a number of occasions of my parked car being left with the highbeams on, draining the battery, and me coming back to a dead car.
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In the last week the prius has been acting weird. Car goes back to IG - ON after I shut off. I have a 2006 155k miles prius
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Need to repair or replace the hardware for the lower Glovebox latch for 2004 Prius....
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When Powering off my 2004 Prius, here's what happens: Press Power button, Power button and Dash display(above the sterring wheel) go off, while the MFD screen stays on(center console) - although temperature is no longer reported on the consumption screen, the consumtion screen is still on, power outlets stay on, and clock is still on. Car refuses to lock driver's door, even with keyfob located outside of car. Car beeps as though still on - I disconnect 12V battery to leave vehicle(and not wear down the 12V). Happened for 3-4 days, went away for a week, and its been back for a week since.
Traced problem so far to the three cables behind the 6 CD changer/radio unit. If the middle of the three plugs on the back of the radio/CD player is unplugged, the problem goes away, so does my bluetooth audio. I need to be able to use handfree while driving in my state, also haven't figured out what else is gone when that cable is unplugged. Radio, CD Player, and Navigation still work with sound when that same middle cable is unplugged.
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I measured battery on my 2007 Prius by MDF, it's only 11.9V, charging is about 14V. When I turn on ACC mode, and Radio is on, I think it shut down the radio after about 15minutes; I cannot put the car in ready mode after it shut down. I have to jump it in order to put in ready mode. Is it my turn to replace this auxiliary battery?
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I have a 2007 with 46,000 miles. Today I went out to run an errand and when I got to the store, the start button would not shut off. At the same time the dashboard went dark so no speed or mileage could be seen, but no warning lights came on. I tried pressing it repeatedly to no avail.
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