Prius (2004-09) :: ICE Starts And Stops Continuously
Mar 26, 2013
I stopped at a light yesterday and the day before and the ICE will turn off, then turn on for a second or two, then off, then on for a second or two, etc. it did this for probably 15 seconds until I let my foot off the brake and coasted forward a few feet then stopped again. What the heck is going on. It's done it twice now.
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
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Shown on a Corolla, but would work even better on a Prius because of the way the engine starts and stops while driving.
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When using the AC on my 2004 Prius, in any mode, any temperature, on fresh or recirculate, the cooling starts and stops every 5-10 mins. When the cooling is on, it is nice an cold, but then no matter how hot outside, the cooling stops and I am just getting vent air. After a while, the temp in the car gets way above the set point, and it kicks back on and cools again. This occurs over and over again.
Being as the cooling works well some of the time, I was wondering if it is a controller, not the cooling system itself.
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My Gen 2 2006 Prius engine works continuously and does not shut down even when car is stopped and parked. It shuts down after pressing power button. Problem started after I changed oxygen sensor and then car was reset by computer, could these actions cause the problem? What kind of problem is that and how to fix it...
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My Prius touring had 4 205/55/16 tires. I had the mechanic change the front two tires to 205/50/16 and now, whenever I drive over 60mph, the slip indicator light flashes continuously. When I slow down, it goes away.
Is it because the front and rear tires are mismatched? If so, I'll have the mechanic change the rear to 205/50/16 as well.
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I have a 1982 short-box chevy pick-up with a diesel 8 cylinder 6.2L that will start and run for a few seconds and then shuts down. It may restart and do the same thing. It will not keep running after an initial few seconds.
I have a mechanic that operates an automotive repair business in our hamlet and he took it on although not an expert on diesels. He works on it when he gets time and talking to him today he feels it must be an electrical problem shutting things down as fuel is getting from the fuel pump to the injection pump.
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I work in a automotive garage and am having a problem with this truck. It starts then stops instantly, I scanned it and know it is the security feature shutting it down. I have done my homework and found I have to bypass the passkey system by measuring the resistance between the yellow and orange/black wire at the tumbler. I did this and got 33.2, I got a resistor and soldered it in and the vehicle does the same thing.
History on this vehicle 1998 c1500 is it sat with a dead battery for the last year and a half, i don't know if this is relevant. Also i was told all I should do is connect the yellow wire straight to the black wire.
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I have a problem with my 4runner, it ran good when I drove it before I deployed, not I got back and it will not run, it starts for about 30 seconds then dies, sounds like something is killing the fuel, I took the cap off the tank to see if it was clogged, but thats not the problem, it just will not stay running for longer than 30 seconds. Also I realized that the alternator was very hot for the 5-7 times I started it and had it run for 30 seconds? Oh it's a V6 3.0L 5SPD manual 4X4 by the way.
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The thumping starts at as low as 5mph and never stops. There is also vibration that I can feel through the foot well. Tire shop says the tires are cupping. All suspension components were original. So I figured at 150k they need replacement.
Last weekend I went ahead and changed all 4 struts out with KYBs. Of the 4, front passenger side was completely seized, others were sill working. It still has thumping sound and also the vibration although a bit less than before.
So should I change other components - UCAs, LCAs, ball joints? I am assuming tires need to be replaced, but I don't want to replace those only to find out those are shot in a few months because I didn't changed other worn out parts.
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97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
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It is not the brake switch. I can shift the transmission. Put key in ignition and turn to start. Engine starts to fire then stops and can hear starter turning while still holding key in start position. The car did start after many time and got home.
Tried to start again and no go. Warranty is done. I have read something on-line about cam position sensor? Last couple months had strange idle at stop light that went away and this can be also a symptom of the cam sensor.
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2003 Merc. SABLE. AC works great for 1/2 hour on the highway. Then No cool air. We shut it off. An hour later and 70 miles down the road , it works again. Always cold air.. no matter where you set temp. 4 times to 3 mechanics. No one can solve it.
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My brakes are working fine, and the car starts up okay. However, when I press on the gas and go anywhere over 20 mph or so, my car will start, then stop, then start, then stop... Until I step off the gas. There's also a semi-frequent squealing noise whenever I press the gas. The Service Engine Soon Light is on. What it is?
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My wife has recently been complaining that the AC will work for a while, but then it stops working after running for about 30 minutes. She also reports that, at that time, the air flow (blower speed?) seems to drop tremendously. I have observed the former but not the latter, so I can't say for sure that if it really drops in air flow or if it's just a matter of perception. I put my AC gauges on it and it reports the following:
Static reading is 70/100 PSI
Reading system on is 17/145 PSI
Ambient temperature is ~92 degrees humidity is 65%
Vent reading is ~77 degrees
I can see movement in the sight glass while the vehicle is running. I'd like to add a little refrigerant (if that's what it looks like it needs) just to see if we can make it through the summer. Prior to the AC problems popping up.
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My Prius works great. It is a 2007 model with 42 000 miles in a perfect condition. However, the "Check engine" light is on. Well, when the engine is still cold, it runs fast and, sometimes, before it stops, it shakes a little.
My mechanic noticed a 171 code issue. From Toyota, they recommended to change the trottle body. That's what we did, but the light was soon back. We checked all the connections : they seem ok.
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I really don't know whats going on. First my remote to lock my car stops working and it wont take the programming. After about a month now when I turn my car off the horn starts going off as if I pressed the panic button. Do I need to get a new electronic part or something.?
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My 07 tundra starts and then stops running it does this intermittently. I recently put in new battery.
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I was trying to close my sunroof just now and it starts to close but it stops just before the end and opens back up again!! What do i do about it?
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My 3003 Santa Fe AWD has an issue with the blower fan. It stops, then starts working and clicking can be heard behind the dash when this happens. The clicking seems to increase when the climatization switch (the one that switches the air to the front vents, foot wells, windshield, etc) is turned off. When it clicks while the switch is on the off position, the blower blows for a split second every time the click is audible. It kind of turns itself on/off. Before I start replacing parts, I suspect the fan relay to be the culprit, but I'm not sure.
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I have a 1995 Dodge neon 2.0 SOHC. It stars, runs for a few minutes, then dies. Then when I try again it will run for a few seconds before it dies. After that I do not hear my fuel pump engage when I turn they key. It takes about a day before it repeats this process.
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