Prius (2004-09) :: ICE Not Turning On - Code P3000
Nov 3, 2015
My 2006 Toyota Prius with 130k miles i had the 12v battery replaced 4 months ago because I had the dashboard not turning on when starting the car. I drive about 200 miles everyday for work (deliveries) so the car basically is turned on all day.
Last week when I got home turned off my prius when I turned it back on later that night the dashboard would not turn on. Tried disconnecting the 12v battery and still no dashboard. Drove around like that for two days until Friday when suddenly the dashboard turned on and everything was fine.
Later that night I turned on the prius and the dashboard didn't turn on again, shut it off and turned it back on, dashboard turned on.
Now the big issue: The ICE does not want to turn on. Vsc and abs lights with the triangle of death are on. Code reader wasn't showing any codes.
I towed the prius to my mechanic so I wouldn't get stranded with only the electric motor running, he checked the 12v battery, fuses and relays. Moving the car around on his lot they discharged the hybrid battery. At first there were still no check engine light and no codes. Now the prius is throwing the p3000 code.
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My wife was driving the Prius today and triggered P3000 code, the triangle popped up and the battery blower fan runs full on. I of course googled it and see it can be due to battery overheating? How should i go about trouble shooting this?
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I was driving my 2005 Toyota Prius and all of a sudden some lights came on the dash. The orange check engine light, The big red Triangle with an exclamation mark on it, the orange VSC symbol, and the orange exclamation mark all at once. I also heard the fans in the back seat kicked in which I never heard before. It felt as though the car didn't have much acceleration. I took it to the dealer and they had it a whole week trying to figure out what it was wrong. They said they got the P3000 INF 123 code from the car which they said the HV control ECM for $2000. Needless to say I don't want to pay that! I found used ECM on ebay for $85 and I bought a scangauge 2 . I pulled 2 different codes out with the scan gauge 2 P0A80 and P3021.
Do you think the dealer diagnosis is right? What does the codes I read out mean?
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I have a 2004 prius with p3000 sub 123 this is the only code. This happen after a replace a cell. Now I check every cell all of them are around 8 V.
P3000 subcode 123 is abnormal signal from the battery...
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I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery.
I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostic's on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes.
This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
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I have a 2003 Prius with a hard falt code of P3000 main battery bad! But there is not anything wrong with the batt or how it runs. I cleared the code and in 10 miles or so it comes right back? I was thinking of a reflash on the computer, what to do?
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I bought an 03 with 58K miles on it. shortly after I bought it the check main battery light came on, after the local Toyota dealer told me I needed a new main battery. I had a P3000 code, a high voltage leak. It turned out to be corroded buss bars and cables, with 2 leaking cells, $1,450.00 latter the onboard computer said the problem was fixed and my display read normally for about 1,500 miles before I started getting that code and the check main battery light again.
I took it back to the shop tat did the work and they ran the diagnostics on it again, checking the main power cables that led from the main battery under the car to the Toyota Hybrid system, inverter? Under the hood they checked all of the high voltage connections, they all checked out fine. The shop then took several days to do an online search for possible causes. This led to the CV trans axle with its electric motors and generators as the possible culprit. The car is running and driving fine, so I did the 60,000 mile transmission oil change, suggested by my mechanic ( apparently the fluid becomes conductive with age) the check battery light will go off if I remove the secondary battery terminal for a minute or so and stayed off for 2 tanks of gas after the fluid change but it did come back on.
I can reset the computer easily enough and it will stay off for 3 to 400 miles but I'm looking to get the damn light to stay off. I'm going to change the trans fluid again. Changing the drive motor or generator?, can this be done in the car? or at all? It may be that if this is the problem it may end up making sense to just put in a new CV transaxle.
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So I received the P1121 and took it to the dealer. They told me I also had a P3000. I called another dealer and they said the P3000 could be caused by the P1121 not giving it enough coolant. So I brought it back to the house, bought the valve listed in the forums, and I spent all day changing that + the coolant. I drained the coolant and between the reservoir and the radiator cap itself I refilled about 4 QT, and I saw that my inverter coolant was just below the low line, so I filled it up to the full line. Afterwards, I tried to get the coolant to flow, and it seems like I won't flow. The check engine light immediately came back on and the car said, "Problem." So I immediately shut it off and let it set for a few days. How do I get it so that the coolant starts flowing again. I haven't seen any of the levels move whatsoever on the radiator.
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Yesterday I got the "red triangle" and check engine light along with these 3 codes:
P0A80 - replace hybrid battery pack
P3019 - battery block 9 becomes weak
P3000 - battery control system
In April of this year I have the entire battery replaced, in September I got the triangle again and one cell was replaced under warranty. My warranty is good through April 2016, however I'm afraid that this new code P3000 is going to be something not included in my warranty.
What could potentially be wrong? This is a 2006 Prius with approximately 208,000 miles. I'm not sure this is worth it anymore especially if I have to keep putting in more money.
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Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
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Bought a used 2002 Prius in December of last year. When I got it home the hybrid system warning light and the check engine light came on, but after reading through priuschat for a few hours I thought to take a look at the engine air filter, which turned out to be utterly filthy. Replaced it and the car ran fantastically for the next 8 months, which was plenty of time for me to fall utterly in love with how quiet it is and how smooth a ride it is.
The carfax report for the car showed that its battery was replaced shortly before I bought it and that its transmission fluid was changed approximately 20k miles before that, so I thought (apparently mistakenly) that I didn't have to worry too much about either.
During these 8 months the car saw my regular mechanic for oil changes twice, had a bad CV axle replaced and I was told the serpentine belt was glazing and may need to be replaced with the next oil change, but neither I nor my regular mechanic noticed any other issues.
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2001 Prius
I was able to pull codes this evening ( no subcodes).
The codes are as follows:
P3000, Battery Control System Malfunction
P3030, Battery Voltage Detective Line Snapped
Will the P3030 cause a P3000 to pop up since it appears I have one of the 19 voltage detect lines corroded or broken?
Once I fix this issue, is there a chance that the P3000 will disappear?
I was just getting the triangle and the Main Battery error on the MFD up until yesterday. Yesterday, the ! with the car came on (Hybrid system) on the MFD. I did not check any codes until today. Car will currently not start at all.
Aux battery voltage is confirmed to be 12.3 volts via the MFD in the diagnostic mode so it's good to go.
No one around has a scan tool that will also pull the subcodes.
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I am working on a 2003 Prius with 120k. It died when the owner was coming to a stop. He had it towed to the dealer who told him it needed an inverter and quoted $4600 to replace it. I replaced the inverter with a used unit from a wrecked car. After clearing the codes the car starts and runs but after a few minutes the triangle of death comes back and codes P3000 and P3009 are set.
Battery voltages are as follows.
Where the best place to start diagnosing the leak is ?
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I would like to understand what this reports mean.
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I have a 2001 Prius with about 110K which I have owned since new. It displayed the hybrid warning light (as well as check engine) 2 weeks ago and I took the car in to the local dealer.. After a little muddling around they came up with codes indicating that the computer for the battery was going. I purchased that Part Number: 8989047030 Part Description: electrical, battery, computer H.V. SUPPLY. and the dealer installed that part a couple of days ago.
Now the following codes (and only these codes according to the dealer) are displaying and indicating faults in the main battery: P3006 and P3000.
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I need assitance on the following diagnostic report. My prius shows:-
1. Red triangle with exclamation mark,
2. On the LCD red car with exclamation mark,
3. ABS sign - on and off.
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My 2003 with 150K miles has had the blinking A/C light problem for the past year or so. I ran the diagnosis, got the 22 code, so it seems the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced. If I leave the A/C on Max with the fan on at Max, the A/C works fine (for at least as long as my daily commute, about 40 mins). Once I turn the fan down or turn Max off, the lights start blinking within 5-10 minutes and the A/C doesn't work. Is this consistent with the clutch problem?
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My girlfriend has a 2004 Prius with the nav kit and has been having some rather odd issues as of late, of which seemed to have started after she hit an animal. The gas engine in her car seems to be turning on right away when she turns the car on. The engine also sounds quite loud, almost as if it is revving. Her gas mileage has also dropped considerably, from 45-ish down to around 33 mpg. Also, upon stopping, the mileage gauge on her nav screen doesn't immediately go to 99. Instead it sits around in the 40s for a while before jumping up to 99.
Now, she mentioned this to the tech at the dealer when she finally went to get the recall done on her water pump, but the guy said it drove fine and threw no codes. She then took it to another shop who said it threw a P3190 code, but he had never seen this issue and wouldn't know how to fix it.
The only thing I could find while searching around (mainly on this forum) was that it could be a problem with the electric throttle body. The throttle body seems to make sense to me, but she isn't totally convinced. She also has a 200+ mile trip coming up for the holiday season and it would be nice to fix the issue before that.
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This summer my power steering went out. I replaced the steering rack with a remanufactured rack, which failed. I got the replacement rack replaced by the remanufacturer and installed by a different shop. Same problem: SEVERE vibration when turning hard right followed by the PS error code, or just little twitchy motions when driving. I'm having the second shop take a look at it again this monday as I suspect that this is a data processing issue.
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have a 07 prius with 113k miles. It recently displayed the red triangle with code p0aa6 sub code 612.
I took apart the battery and nothing looked corroded, then on the inside of the bus bar i found a small amount of corrosion. After testing the cells i found 2 modules that were leaking voltage.
Since I had everything open I figured I might as well test to see if any cells were on there way out. The static voltages were pretty close around 7.8v, there were a couple modules that were .3v apart that I'm doing more testing on. I load tested each module with 1a, is 1 amp enough for a load test? I have a 100a load tester but figured that was way too much. They were all ok under load test, dropping about .6v and returning to original voltage within a few minutes.
Then I decided to check capacity on the bad cells, they were about 500mah, got to 1000mah after 1 discharge/charge cycle. I tested the capacity on a cell I thought was good and so far it discharged about 1050mah until it reached 6v, this was from 7.77v. I'm giving it some time to rest to see if it goes back up a bit and then I'll discharge some more till it stays at 6v. Even if I get a little bit more in it will be way under the 6500mah it should have or even the 3500mah that I've read is acceptable.
Since all of the modules have parameters that are pretty close I'm thinking the capacity will be pretty close as well.
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Is there a way to pop the trunk without turning the car off, releasing the key from holder, getting out and opening it from outside. This is probably a terribly stupid question but I've recently discovered this oddity and thought I'd ask -no matter how simple it may sound.
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