Prius (2004-09) :: ICE Keeps Running Even Though Engine Is Warm And Gas Pedal Not Depressed
Jun 13, 2010
I've noticed lately that my Prius (2008) sometimes decides to keep the ICE running even though the engine is warm and the gas pedal is not depressed. I can pulse and glide (with the engine off during glide) the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then all of a sudden the ICE starts running constantly. I have to press the EV button to be able to glide. Quite annoying... I bought the Prius just to get rid of the ignition jerking.
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Sometime the car is fighting to move forwards when I start to depress accelerator pedal and it sounds like "click click CLICK..." the sound changes from lower to louder depending on how I depress accelerator pedal... (like the car is trying to hard to move)...
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I have another small issue with my 2004 Prius. I just noticed yesterday that the second I very lightly depress the brake pedal, a little clicking sound is made down below. It sounds like it might be coming from the brake pedal itself or somewhere underneath the hood. It's only when I depress the pedal slightly and it makes pretty much the same sound when I release the pedal. I just had a 5000 mile service done to the car and there were no issues then.
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I have recently purchased a 2007 Gen 2 Prius and sometimes it emits a very annoying squeak. It occurs when the car is stationary, with the brake pedal fully depressed. When inside the vehicle it seems to be coming from behind the glove box. When on the outside and facing the car it seems to be coming from below / behind the electric motor. I have made a recording of it with the noise in question being audible for a couple of seconds at 0:13, and then again at 0:22 until the end. It could be nothing I guess, but this is my first hybrid and I am not too sure what is perfectly normal and what is not.
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I just changed the rear rotors and pads on a 2010. Mileage is 145,000, owned since new. It seems the ASC/TRAC light now flashes when pedal is depressed (put car in drive in garage - depress pedal - one beep and light flashes). I had trouble with one of the the caliper pistions, and screwed it all the way out and lost 1/2 teaspoon of brake fluid, so I may have introduced air into the line. Would this cause this? Is there anything unusual about bleeding brakes (as compared to non-regenerative braking cars)?
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I have a 2014 Passat TDI with a 6 speed manual. When the clutch pedal is depressed between upshifts, there is an audible groaning sound and a vibration in the clutch pedal. The dealer replaced the throwout bearing but the problem persisted. They then replaced the entire transmission and the noise/vibration is still there. The noise follows engine RPM. Is this normal for the TDI powertrain? The dealer had never encountered the noise but they did find another car on the lot with the same noise.
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I recently acquired a 1984 AMC Eagle and I'm having trouble getting it to start. It turns over but the engine stops running unless the accelerator is kept depressed. Also, the car stalled at a light the one time I did get it running, so I'm thinking that there are some issues with the idle or with the carburetor maybe. I live in Colorado and I gather that the idle on these vehicles needed to get adjusted for the altitude, but I assume this has been done already as it has always been a Colorado car and has 125K miles on it. The gas is low, so possibly it might be something as simple as a gas supply issue, but judging by what other owners have posted online, it seems that this stalling problem is common with the Eagle so I think it probably is something more involved.
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Ok, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
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Nissan Rogue SV 2011 is keyless entry vehicle. When using remote starter, the engine shuts off when brake pedal depressed and the car is restarted to drive away. does this 'turning off/turning on' the engine damage any of the systems of this vehicle. it just doesn't seem a good idea to have the engine turned off and then immediately turned on.
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I have a 2002 F250 4x4 Powerstroke with Automatic. I have been having off and on issues for months with the throttle going dead. This only happens when I start it, if it works when started it will continue working until a different start session.
I have replaced the pedal several times before learning how to check its output with a meter and am quite sure that is not my issue at this time. However, when the pedal is depressed the check engine light lites up and nothing happens.
I am thinking it must be the computer itself, but was told there is another sensor or module under the hood that could cause the issue also which is several hundred dollars to replace as would be the computer.
Is there a way to test the computer, and what is this other module/sensor if it exists that could be the issue? Unhooking and rehooking the battery to reset the computer is no longer working to buy me a few more weeks, is there a simple way to reset the computer to try?
I love this truck when the throttle works but I am getting tired of paying on a truck while having to borrow a vehicle to drive to work.
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Last year my check engine light came on a couple of times at the end of the summer but it went away and I can't remember how. Today was the warmest day of the year so far for us and my check engine light came on again. It seems to happens when it's warm, I'm accelerating and I think the A/C is on but I can't be 100% sure about that.
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I've read the pages on engine oil level and changes in the awesome 2004-2009 manual by John's Stuff - Toyota Prius and more.
Great information on overfilling of engine oil. Among others I read:
"The ideal level is 1/4” (one-quarter inch or 6 millimeters) below the "full" mark, which is between the D and the E on the photo above." (p.27)
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I changed timing belt and water pump DIY back in Oct 2015. Ever since then, I get rough idling (car kind of vibrate and engine kind of struggling) after warm start (no problem with cold starts, it did stall once after the warm start).
Two days ago, I got a P0000 code, I thought it was due to low oil (happened before, I topped off oil 2500 miles ago), so I changed oil and filter. No problem yesterday, but today on my way to work. I got the p0000 code again.
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2013 tdi 6mt. I am noticing that my clutch clicks when the pedal is depressed. it does not happen when I first start driving in the morning, but it seems that once the cabin is warmed slightly it starts then clicks each and every time. It is annoying and it appears to be related to the different temps outside vs the cabin. I did not notice it during summer or early fall but it is cold here now.
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But when I take my foot off the brake pedal , its just seems rather noisy (clunky). As if VW forgot to put some rubber or something to prevent this clunky sound. (it just sounds cheap)
My jetta and tiguan never seemed like this. Have to stick my head under there and see whats up
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I have a 1997 f-150 V6 4.2L 2WD. I've been noticing a few symptoms going on and aren't sure if they're related or not. Firstly, I hooked my code reader to the truck and I have P0453 DTC active: Evaporative Emissions Control System Pressure Sensor High Input. As far as symptoms, truck runs overall pretty well. However, if I shut off the truck after running for awhile and then immediate attempt to start it back up, the starter will spin the flywheel but it won't ignite unless I apply pressure to the gas pedal.
Again, this is only when it's hot. I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail and have 35 psi when running, and seeing as how I don't really have any other fuel-related issues going on (aside from the DTC, which I'm unfamiliar with, so it may be related??), so I don't think it's a fuel pump or anything issue. Maybe an issue with the TPS? I work on diesel trucks so throttle body systems are foreign and strange to me.
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I have a 1998 Intrigue with over 225,000 miles. It seems to run well for the most part. However....
After I have driven the car for a while and gotten it up to temperature, if I stop and let it cool for a while, when I go to start it up again, it will start easily and then immediately die. Almost like the fuel got cut off. My work around at this time is that if I manually keep the rpms up using the gas pedal it will stay running. If I take my foot off to quick it will still die but if I can do it or 20 to 40 seconds it will stay running.
Other clues:
There are no codes.
If I only drive for a shorter time, when I go to start the engine it will start but it will rev up and down (sometimes for up to ten seconds) before settling down to the proper idle.
When I start the car in the morning, it will start right up but tends to rev above 1200 rpms for about a minute or two before it will settle down.
What has been changed in the past couple of years:
IAC
MAF
EGR
Crankshaft Sensor
Wires (but not plugs)
Also the throttle body was cleaned pretty thoroughly. The guy who did it did think that the throttle body gasket was kinda iffy but intact.
I checked the FPR but no fuel leaked from it even after running the engine for five minutes.
Injectors could be going bad, maybe?? But wouldn't that cause problems other than just at a warm start?
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I have a 2003 Passat GLX 4Motion that was fine Monday...Having heavy rain Monday and with brake pedal depressed unable to get out of park..I have brake lights but when I got into car and started it I have airbag light and esp light on as well as check engine light...Is there a way to by pass the shift lock solenoid so I can move car into my garage...
I cleaned connections as was suggested and had a tough time as Bentley Manual states to remove console one must put lever into 3 which as lever is stuck in PARK was impossible...I tried pulling out the shift knob button as described and when I still couldn't get any response found that when I pushed the button back in that I was finally able to get shift lever to respond and finally come out of park...
I now get code for no TCM Signal P1626 No Powertrain Data Bus Signal Missing Message from TCM which now triggers ABS , Airbag ,ESP , and Check Engine light all with the cause no TCM Signal .... Now wondering if any easy way to test for data bus signal ?
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My car was parked for 5 days. When I next started it there was no response when I depressed the gas pedal--car remained in a rough idle. Had to restart the car three times before it worked but check engine light has not gone off.
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B2200 mazda: I've recently got a screechy noise only when in gear but gas pedal NOT depressed. Could this be an indication of a bad U joint noise? Or? The noise seems to be coming from the rear chassis of car. Noise seems worse if going in reverse. Possibly coincidentally I started noticing the noise after a shock absorber worked its way loose, causing lots of racket. (The mechanic who'd installed it has since tightened it.) Would all that rumbling from the loose shock have caused something to break or work loose? Or is it just age of vehicle (22 yrs) By the way, the noise is very similar to a wire scratching metal. I also have had the classic thunk noise of a u joint, for a longer period of time-- never looked into though.
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I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
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