Prius (2004-09) :: ICE Does Not Start When Accelerating From A Stop Light
Jul 9, 2015
We have owned our 2008 Prius since new so when it misbehaves we know it.
Starting yesterday, when accelerating from a stop light we would be on electric ONLY. The ICE would not even TRY to start. There were NO fault lights or other indications. Then the ICE would run a bit and stop and sometimes begin to act almost normal. We watched the HV battery charge go from 3/4 to one bar in a matter of minutes.
We limped it back home, the ICE was running so we let it run until the battery got up to three bars and he ICE shut off. Then we got in my 05 Prius and finished the task at hand.
View 13 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2004 Toyota Prius with 95k that I would like to drive to work everyday. Only problem is that after the car warms up(2-3 minutes of driving), whenever I gas the car to go the Master Warning Light comes on, and as long as I'm gassing it stays on followed up by a picture of the oil lamp comes up.
Now if you stop accelerating than it goes off and comes right back on when you start accelerating. I'm new to these Prius. I checked the engine oil level and it is almost full. I took the car to the shop and all they said was that the transmission was overfilled.(but they did not drain the fluid to bring the transmission oil down.) Is it possible that the oil picture on the top left of the Navi display is caused from overfilled transmission fluid?
View 19 Replies
My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
View 3 Replies
My family has had this car for a long time. It worked fine for years but in the past year it has had some problems when starting. Sometimes the car starts fine, sometimes it won't start until you re-try a few times, sometimes it won't start and you can try over and over and it never does. When it doesn't start, it doesn't do anything at all, no sound or anything. The battery is not dead, the car has more than half a tank of gas. Recently, the car started fine, but after driving it for a while, we stopped at a stop light.
When we tried to accelerate after the stop, the car died, during the acceleration and a left turn. We got the car going again after trying a few times, but later that same trip, the car died again when accelerating, but this time it was from a slow speed, not a stop and it was while we were driving straight. The car is well taken care of (oil changes, check the oil, do not let it get to under a quarter of a tank, change transmission filter & oil, air filter, brakes, etc.) The timing chain is permanent, stainless steel. We do not drive very much but we are afraid to now that we don't know if it will die while we are driving.
View 2 Replies
I've been living with a mild "clunk" or "bump" in the drive train when I would first begin to accelerate from a full complete stop. It would only happen after a complete stop. It almost felt like it could be normal, but it seemed to be getting worse over time.
At first I thought it was my transmission...but after some internet searching I found some threads talking about the slip yoke on the drive shaft being the cause. In that the slip yoke needs to be pulled apart and re-lubed.
Anyway, I thought I'd post and let eveyone know that after pulling the slip yoke and re-lubing with grease my issue is solved! The "clunk" is totally gone. 100% Smooth now. If has this issue I'd highly recommend re-lubing the slip yoke.
[URL]
On my 2004 F-150 SuperCrew, all I needed to do was remove the drive shaft at the rear differential (4 bolts, use 12mm 12 point socket or wrench). Then remove the FRONT clamp on the slip yoke boot. Then slide out the rear 1/2 of the drive shaft. Be sure to mark the drive shaft orientation with the rear differential flange and the slip yoke before you remove the drive shaft to ensure you put it back together correctly.
Re-lube the slip yoke, then slide it back together and reinstall the four bolts at the rear differential. Torque spec is 76 ft-lbs. I used Valvoline FORD-LINCOLN-MERCURY moly grease that I purchased at my local AutoZone. You'll also need to install a new band clamp around the rubber slip yoke boot. I got mine from AutoZone.
Here are some links I found with pictures showing how to do this. Both procedures below are on SuperDuties but its basically the same procedure. Just follow my specific details above for the 2004-2008 F-150
Slip joint regreasing
2004 F250 Slip Yoke Service
View 14 Replies
I have a gen2 2007 prius (right hand drive). Problem I am having is [INTERMITTENT]when pressing the ignition button to turn off the car. When I press the button the system completely shuts down instantly and rather roughly and nothing is active (the Key is still in). I then remove the key and the system starts up! I then press the button to stop the system, put the key back in and restart it. It then works fine - until the next time. Clock resets itself as does the climate controls. Not sure what to make of this. I have just recently replaced the 12v battery in the boot.
PS. Forgot to mention that when the system goes dead, if I fold down back seat and thump the floor panel above the battery under the seat the system goes on?? Any clues. Will take it to mechanic as soon as he gets back from holiday!
View 3 Replies
My 2002 Hyundai elantra gls has had a problem with losing power when accelerating from a light. only after filling up gas and has done it only three times. I cleaned throttle body and noticed the mass air flow sensor is missing and wiring. I went to AutoZone and no check engine light for mass air flow sensor and that I have one for fuel pressure sensor in tank. I don't wanna throw money in to the mass air flow sensor if my problem is the fuel tank pressure sensor.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2004 Camry, 4 cylinder. 48000 miles, had it since 08 when my mother passed, and it had 6500 miles on it then. Over the past few months it has developed a grumbling sound on accelerating from a stop. I thought it was only audible from inside but I heard it when my wife pulled away and now I am concerned. Two ways to describe this.
1. Grumbling.
2. A diesel like sound
It lasts for a very short time and is silent while driving and idling. I have also noticed that the idle "feels" low. It is about 600-650. Not sure what it should be.
My plan was to buy and change fuel filter, air filter, PVC , and maybe some injector cleaner...
View 5 Replies
I'm experiencing an unusual grinding noise when accelerating from a dead stop but only in this specific situation.
1. When battery is at a low state of charge and the AC is on, therefore, whenever I slightly step on the gas the engine will immediately start.
2. Only under this condition, when I slightly press on the gas and the engine will start to charge the battery and propel the car at the same, there is a slight grinding noise coming from the front of the car. I don't know what this noise is, it sounds like gears grinding, it's very light though.
I know it's not the brake accumulator noise, because that's a whole different sound, and also this only happens under the condition I described above. When battery is low and ac is on, and the engine will need to start right away even when gas peddle is slightly depressed.
The best way to describe the sound is if you were to take a soda can and cut it in half and rub the two halves together (the edges) it sounds like that.
Also, there are no lights on the dash. It's a 2009 with about 73,400 miles.
The transaxle oil has already been changed maybe 10,000 miles ago.
The noise started recently, at least I only noticed it recently since it's summer and I have the ac on much more. There are no drivability issues, but the thing is, this noise was not there before, I know I'm not hearing things. You know when you drove a car for quite some time you will naturally know what sounds are normal and what sounds are new.
View 5 Replies
On the drive home tonight, I noticed a clicking/ ticking sound coming from the car when accelerating from a complete stop. I would accelerate slowly enough to keep the vehicle in EV mode for the duration of the acceleration. Not sure if this is normal.
View 2 Replies
I've noticed that when accelerating from a stop and turning onto an adjacent street to the left or right, there seems to be stuttering or shaking coming from the engine. I'm usually in ECO and only 1/3 of the way into the "engine half" zone on the HSI. It's not consistent but has become a bit of an annoyance.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2004 Prius with about 50K miles. It is driven every day. I recently noticed that the motor doesn't shut off as frequently as it used to when I stop at a light. It then also shows the battery as almost empty (1 bar) on the touch screen. Gas mileage also seems to be a little lower than it used to be. Other than that the car drives fine. Could this be an indication of the battery starting to go?
View 19 Replies
2005 with 110K miles. Had oil change about 2K miles ago, tires rotated about 1K miles ago. I was at a stop light when I felt a little movement in the brake pedal and the lights all came on. Brakes continued to work, but somewhat harder to push the pedal. When first applying the brakes, there was a very slight wandering of the car, which was easy to correct.
I drove the car home and turned it off. About an hour later I started it and the problem was gone. I took it to an independent garage the next day. Their scan tool found C1357 -- decrease pressure solenoid fault -- but could not go further into sub codes. They recommended that I take it to dealer.
View 1 Replies
Our 2005 Prius with 160,000 miles is displaying warning lights and the gasoline engine is reving at times and not shutting off when the car is at a stop light.
The dealer says it is throwing a P3000 and P0A80 codes. I asked for subcodes, the dealer doesn't know what I am talking about.
The dealer wants to replace the hybrid computer for $900 and if that doesn't fix it they want to replace the hybrid battery for $3500.
View 6 Replies
Check motor light came on...... Now at every light I stop at.... The engine won't kick off.... Keeps running...
Oil-check
Coolant - check
Gas cap-check
Anywhere in Orange county we have trusted repair/diagnostics?
View 16 Replies
I got my b2500/ranger a couple of months ago and I've had very poor gas mileage. I replaced the air filter, changed the plugs, no luck. The truck has 169,000 miles. I haven't checked my exact gas mileage but from what i am seeing its horrible. I filled it up last night, not completely full but really close the full marker. In the morning i drove to school (7 miles) drove home, so 14 miles. Then i had to go back out by my school to pay back a friend. All in all about 28 miles. This cost me a little more than a quarter of a tank. The 2.5l has a 16 gallon fuel tank, so if my calculations are correct im getting about 8 miles to the gallon. I also took it the consideration that it was a half gallon from full.
And it wasn't just past below a quarter to full it was 3/4 of the way to a quarter from full. I know that i didn't test the mpgs "properly" but i think its close enough to draw a conclusion from. And keep in mind its not a 4.0, its a 2.5! Although i do think the engines size contributes to the mpgs because it takes ALOT to accelerate in this truck. At 2k rpm im barely accelerating from a stop light. And on the highway my engine stays a 2500 rpm doing 60-65. I am really hoping I can fix this because I don't want to drive around in a civic. Plus I need a truck for scrapping which is how I pay for gas as i am 17 and jobs are scarce. Also I know about cleaning the MAF butit has tamper proof torx on it which i do not have the tools to remove. I think it could also be the o2 sensors.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2010 Ford Ranger Sport. RWD with the 4.0L. Currently Sitting at 46,000 Miles.
Where I am located, it is very cold. Downwards of 5 Degrees F. I just started noticing a strange sound in my truck. When accelerating from a stop light I hear a single knock, and to my ear it sound as if it was coming from the rear. First thing I did was check the U-Joint, but there is zero play and it is very tight.
After driving quite a lot and unable to diagnose the problem, I part and got out of my truck, only to hear that same noise when I stepped out of the truck. (I am not fat 195b lol). So I sat back down and I heard it again. Did this a few times and consistently heard it. I got into the bed of my truck and started to jump around and got the same knock.
I shook the exhaust pipe to see if it was making the noise, but it wasn't, which makes sense considering while driving over bumps I could not hear anything. I am totally lost as to what this could be....I want to add that I CANNOT feel any difference driving. Feels great.
My ideas on problems are as follows;
-Spare tire
-bushing
-loose bold
-leaf spring (maybe a hanger)
-The cold creating noise like always.
View 3 Replies
I've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
View 5 Replies
I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2003 Nissan Murano with over 100k miles on it that's been serving me well for the past year and I've never had any problems until now. One day when I was accelerating after a stop light turned green the car stalled. I restarted it and it did it again right away. I was visiting my family at the time but managed to drive the 2.5 hours home with no problem and this has only happened once since and it has been awhile since the event. I have since started accelerating slower, but I think a problem is still present. I went to Autozone for a free code reading and received 3 possible codes: P0746, P0430, and P1700. The check engine light came on not long before the first occurrence.
View 4 Replies
I just bought a 98 f150 about a month ago from someone. The guy i bought it from said the tranny had been rebuilt about 4 months prior and i have the invoice proving it. I have lately noticed a hard shift from first to second gear, all other gears shift perfectly, but on my way from work toady the tranny seemed to slightly slip out of gear(in other words the rpms didn't shoot up, just loss of power) when accelerating from a stop light, and then it seemed to catch and started shifting ok. my question is given these symptoms is it possible that i can make this tranny last a little while longer or is it about to quit? any possible causes?
View 4 Replies
