If Prius has to constantly spin the ICE when over 42 mph, even when only running on battery power, it must waste a lot of energy overcoming ICE compression all the time. Or is there some kind of system to reduce compression in this situation – just curious....
View 10 RepliesI tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
View 19 RepliesWith vehicle engines in the past, I have used a compression check as a fundamental part of routinely checking the wear on an ICE. My usual method was disconnecting the ignition, removing spark plugs, inserting the compression gauge line in a spark plug hole, and turning over the engine with the starter. How exactly do I do that sequence with a Gen 3 Prius?
If that method is not feasible, would a "leak down" method of checking compression such as we did on old aircraft engines possibly work with the Prius ICE? To do that I would have to be able to carefully position the crankshaft so that the intake and exhaust valves were fully closed on each cylinder in turn. What is the safe method to do that with the Prius ICE?
Exactly what the compression reading should be? I am assuming that if the engine is spun at 1000 rpm by MG1, the correct reading would be 13 to 1 or 13.5 to 1. Or?
So today I hop in my car to run a few quick errands. 2004 V8 4.2ltr. Turns over but does not start. Sounds odd as well. Call a buddy he comes over and plugs in his laptop, the only codes were maf and fuel rail. He turns it over and says, "sounds like no compression" we pull the left cam cover and sure enough the timing belt is loose. The tensioner appears to have failed. I am going to pull the front end off and replace the belt and tensioner.
View 1 RepliesI sea Foamed the truck today. I will be pulling my heads most likely and am doing a few things beforehand just in case. History: low compression and misfire on #2. Have changed plugs and swapped out cops. Paper against exhaust pipe sucks in and pops against the pipe intermittently. Seems like intake valve.
Anyways, poured in a whole damn bottle through the brake vacuum line. The engine sputtered a bit but never stalled. I saw almost no smoke after a whole bottle!! I thought with 156000 miles it would smoke like mad. I have taken very good care of this truck and changed oil every 3 to 5 with synthetic 5-20 since new. Could it be that clean???
The timing belt on my 2004 Chevy Aveo broke last week. I have it at a mechanic who got a new timing belt on to check the compression of the engine. Bad news: no compression. So far they haven't taken the head off to inspect the inside. This includes timing belt/water pump, cylinder head gasket removal and replacement, cylinder head check, some misc labor, lube, oil, and filter...
However, another mechanic is suggesting that I replace the engine instead with a used or refurbished engine with less miles. He says that it doesn't make much sense to put new parts on the top end of the engine. The engine itself has about 153k miles on it.
Our beloved 2004 Subaru Forester has the check engine light on. We've been told that the 4th cylinder has either low or no compression. Is this fixable/worth fixing? Would you replace the engine? The car has 183K miles on it, and runs great! It is stuttering now, due to this issue, but otherwise - runs great and is in good condition!
View 11 RepliesI have 2004 f150 small v8 (4.7?) Has about 92000 miles.
When warm truck runs excellently. At first start up the idle is very rough and raw gas smell for about 4 minutes then truck runs like new. Will start and restart great until it cools down overnite.
My actron says missfire cyl 3. Did not fix it. Dealer says that on start up compression is zero in cylinder three but is 100% when it warms up. Suggested I run seafoam through it. He thinks it has a vacuum leak or carbon at start.
In my limited knowledge I am thinking:
sticky lifter
bent push rods
warp valve
I bought this 2004 V10 Ford truck new.. It was at that time top of the line Ranch King with all the bells and whistles.. I have been trying for some time to figure out the miss I have. I was told yesterday that.. Misfire 2nd cylinder passenger side no compression.. They said I need to have a new Engine installed.. They would look for a rebuilt and would cost with installation around 5 grand.. I then took it to another garage and was told that's not it, but will check it out later in the week.. What I should look for.. No one seems to b able to figure it out.. I cannot afford a new truck at this time and 5 grand for this one to fix is not a reality..
View 8 RepliesIs it possible to tune ECU settings to increase compression ratio and adjust sparks timing for higher octane fuel for octane 98 gasoline or ethanol E85 octane 106?
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 F-150 5.4 has a rattling noise coming from the passenger side of the engine when at operating temperature. The cam phasers and all related parts have been replaced. The reason I was prompted to change the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners was due to the engine stopping on me as I returned home from an errand. The engine had already shown signs of needing the phasers replaced.
The engine runs very smooth while warming up. Vehicle lacks power and has a rough idle after warm. Took the truck to a local mechanic, in the process of making a diagnosis, he performed a compression test. Cylinder 3 psi was much lower than the other 7 cylinders, the mechanic recommended replacing the engine (possible bent valve).
I have a Haynes manual, have searched youtube and checked this and similar forums, I have yet to find instructions on the removal of the head from the block.
(2004 Ford F-150 5.4 3v)....
I have a 2004 Prius, the Red triangle came on intermittently and went off so I changed the 12V battery last night, after changing it the red warning light went off and everything seemed okay. Today while driving, the warning light came back on. I checked the battery voltage via diagnostic mode on the cars computer and the specs are what they should be. I noticed the following error codes in the computer:
01-D5, Sub-code: 190-30-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 190-B7-8
01-DC, Sub-code: 1C6-4D-F
Not sure if these are what is causing the problem.
My 2006 Prius HV battery recently died after 144,000 miles. I got a new battery. To my surprise my mileage has dropped from 45 to 37 mpg. I contacted the dealer repair shop and they told me that the computer system needs to "re-learn" how to optimize the synchronization between gas engine and electric motor. The process can take 2 to 5 thousand miles.
View 11 RepliesI've been having an issue with my 2008 for the last several months and was wondering if this is a common problem, or unique to my vehicle.
View 17 RepliesJust returned from a mechanic who tested my 2004 Prius with 134,000. It indicated there is a problem with the main battery. I was trying to avoid the dealer but it looks like it is a must. He suggested I ask the dealer to remove the battery and bring it to a place in Clearwater Florida to have them refurbish it. If I try to trade in this car I won't get anything for it with the engine light on, right? What should I do? I replaced the 12V two months ago.
View 8 RepliesMy inverter over heated. Looked at reservoir for motion of water saw none. Took car to toyota for pump recall. When I got it back I heard the pump. Never heard it before. I don't think it ever worked. & water is flowing in reservor now. Now I am thinking about the HV bat. fan because I never never ever heard it working. When does it come on and how could I test it?
View 10 RepliesI have got Prius 2004. I have got a problem. With MFD. It's showing the screen where it should show that the battery is charging but it's not showing the charging at all. Car is running fine and starts as normal. I have changed the 12V battery but it's still not showing the charging.
View 6 RepliesYesterday morning, my sweetie went out to go to work, and the Prius wouldn't start, (or anything else). Jump starting remedied that, but I decided that the 12v battery was probably toast ( I had problems with it last winter). I bought a new battery, and then endeavored to put it in. The process was a pain (particularly since I was doing it outside in blowing snow), but I finally got the battery all exposed, only to discover that the battery was frozen into 1.5" of ice (of some sort). Three hours of hair dryer later, I had extracted the battery and all the ice, and installed the new battery. What a pain.
View 1 Replies2005 Prius was dead this morning. I had left a light on a couple of days ago and had to jump it. It started right up. I only drove short distances in the next couple of days, so I thought battery hadn't charged fully. But when I tried to jump it this am it was to no avail. Took battery out and had it charged at parts store, reinstalled and still nothing..
I pushed start button twice without foot on brake;it just flashed some symbol quickly, nothing more.
Last 2 weeks my 2006 HV battery seems to be showing the SOC very erratically. Going up and down fairly rapidly, sometimes staying at 4 bars for a good 20 minute drive on the highway. This weekend after driving 7 hours in 110 degree heat, the battery fan came on. It was blowing on high for about 15 minutes and then it quieted down.
I believe these are signs of it's potential upcoming failure. The car has only 127k miles so I'm still in warranty. So fingers crossed that I'll be close to home when I see all the warning lights pop up.
So it looks like the battery in my Key Fob has died. I've had some trouble replacing it, so for the past week or so I've been forced to use the physical key every single time. It's getting pretty annoying now, so I've decided to figure this out once and for all. From what I gather, the replacement should be battery number 2032.
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