I want to be able to turn the car on and warm up the cab before I drive but need to lock the door until I'm ready. How can I do this? It's a base model w/o SKS
View 1 RepliesThis autumn a new noise has appeared in my UK 2004 Prius. When the heater is calling for heat and the engine is not running (i.e. coolant temp is above 63degC), a sort of 'growling' noise can be heard somewhere inside the heater core or beyond. A low-pitched rattling/rumbling which sounds rather like coolant mixed with air-bubbles going through a pump.
The only change there's been that might account for this is that I had Jemca Toyota in Bracknell carry out the hybrid coolant pump replacement (campaign 2509L). But I thought the heater was only fed by engine coolant, not hybrid coolant?
You can hear this noise stop when the engine starts, and restart when the engine stops. The Haynes manual seems to indicate that there's a pump for just this eventuality.
My heater quit blowing hot or warm air all of the sudden. I took my mechanic and they said it showed no codes and were afraid to mess with it so I took it to a dealership. They worked on it most of a day. Said nothing showed a code as bad, they got into it and found the air going into the heater core was hot, but it was cool coming out. They spent some time flushing the coolant and said they found some sediment in the coolant fluid. They were hoping to flush out anything clogging the heater core.
View 8 RepliesThe a/c and heater are not operating properly. Not cold enough and not getting warm. Low freon, compressor going bad?
On a brighter note...I've sat looking down into a volcano that could blow at any moment.
How can I tell if the engine block heater in my 2010 Prius is working (dealer installed)? The one on my old Subaru made a hissing noise; the one on the Prius makes no noise.
View 19 RepliesI have not had my prius in winter yet so running the heater is new. I am noticing the engine will turn off when warned up as in summer if the heater is off. You turn the heater on and boom engine kicks on. Which of course kills my mileage and it's frustrating. Is it supposed to do this or is something wrong with my prius?
View 17 Replies07 Prius has 188,000 miles on it. Inverter Pump replaced 10/2011. At that time, dealer recommended "replace Heater Pump-making noise and pending code." I have not done this repair yet. In 12/2012, the heater is no longer operating instantly and takes about 10 miles to heat up and occasionally acts up and supplies heat intermittently. About a month ago, the Check Engine Light came on. I noticed that when I re-screwed my gas cap on, that light would go off. About 2 weeks later, light stayed on continually so I replaced gas cap. Light still will not go off and I have driven it 6 times on trips more than 40 miles each.
View 7 RepliesI drained all the coolant from the radiator and engine. After I fill up and bleed the air from the system. I'm very sure no air inside the engine. The next day I found have air gurgling inside the heater core. Look like have a small leak but I check all the engine, host and radiator no leaks. The last think to think is heater core and heater core host. How can I check both parts? If they leak. How hard to change? Can I DIY?
View 3 RepliesI have a used 2009 Gen II with 117k miles. While taking a trip and climbing a high hill on the five, a yellow triangle came on the monitor with the word problem. Now I was going slow up the hill 55mph. I never experienced it with any other car. The battery went to purple and heater did not work.
After pressing the problem triangle it would turn to a thermometer signal. So i assume that the car is over heating. I make i to Los Angeles but then i hear a hum after shutting off the car. It's the pump running much louder.
I fill the radiator with correct fluid from the dealer and I'm thinking that the monitor warning came on only because of the fluid level. No warnings from then on.
So I buy a mini VCI and it has p0128 logged. So I'm thinking that the thermostat doesn't work. However I hear fluid moving from time to time. One day before a trip in the cool morning (around 55 degrees), I open the radiator cap to make sure it's full. It shoots up like a fountain, there was pressure/air in it.
So How do I address the p0128 problem and the no heater problem?
I pull into garage, get out, lock the car with key/handle swipe, and walk upstairs. I go back 2 hrs later, engine is still running, although the key is far away (in my kitcehen upstairs).
1. Should the engine shut down when key goes out of range?
2. If not, can it be programmed to make it happen?
How do I fully lock the car after disconnecting the 12V battery negative lead?
It seems to me that the driver's door mechanical lock only works for that one door, not the hatch.
Second time I've had this problem this winter. 2007 Prius, about 65K miles. When the outside temps go below 20 or so the car locks seem to not want to work. For example this morning temp was about 19, smartkey unlocked the car ok-took a couple of button pushes but it worked. Car started fine. Drove to work and after shut down couldn't lock the car. Smartkey didn't work, pushing the door button didn't work. Lock switch inside the car works, so I locked the doors except driver's then used the manual key to lock the driver's door.
I've checked the battery using the internal maintenance screens, no load voltage about 12.3V, Load voltage 11.7Volts, Charging voltage 14.3 volts. I know I'm due for a 12V battery with it being 5 years old and such, and I'm pretty sure a good cold day will kill it dead. But, other than the battery...
Is there any way to make my Prius beep on lock? I know some friends who own Prius and theirs do it, so it is doable. Is there any sequence of buttons you press on the remote that turns it on and off? I bought it used so I suspect that the previous owner turned it off or something.
View 5 RepliesI am experiencing with my key fobs on my current 2004 Prius. The issue is that I am unable to unlock and lock the car via the SKS Remote, and I am only able to turn on the car via inputting one of the fobs into the slot to turn on the car.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2006 Prius. Just after the Warranty expired which is 3 years in the UK, the passenger door lock would not open. Toyota replaced the lock and it was fine.
View 8 RepliesMy daughter picked up an 08 Base, option package #1 yesterday. It has 166K miles and checked out okay by me (coolant moving by inverter pump, no signs of water in spare tire well...etc.). The car only had 1 key fob (non-SKS) wit no spare key or fob. The key is uncut but the remote starts and runs the car. The remote will not lock or unlock the doors.
The first thing I did was replace the CR2032 battery with no change. It still operated the car but not the locks. I noticed that the little red light wasn't coming on when pushing the buttons and found the red panic button was stuck. Took care of that and thought all was good until I tried to lock and unlock the doors again. Nope! Light comes on, works in slot to start the car, but not the locks.
I bought a used 05 prius about 3,4 years ago. It came with only one key, but everything was fine, except for few minor things. I have changed 12v battery within a month of purchasing this car, to optima yellow top as many priuschat users suggested.
I bought another black logo fob (non-SKS) on ebay, and get a spare key, but no luck. I was trying to do as fast as I can, but the anti theft light never came and stayed on (entering programming mode).
All of sudden, I noticed the fob doesn't lock/unlock the vehicle, but still starts the car. Since then, i unlock with metal key, then start with key fob. Manual door lock/unlock button works fine at driver side. However, when i try to lock the door from passenger side manually, it unlocks the door right away.
Thinking about getting a mini vci cable with techstream to setup a key fob after checking the 12v battery. but it only have been 3,4 years, seems it is too early to replace 12v battery.
I have to manually lock my car doors, and use the door handle unlock sensor to open them. If i use the key FOB or power lock button it blows the fuse. I would like to lock my rear hatch, locking the car the way i do i can never lock the rear.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2005 prius that I purchased used this year. This morning I had my first issue. I turned on the car and it gave me the following error message:
"Transmission p lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car in a flat place and apply parking brake completely."
The parking break wasn't on and I was already parked in a basically flat parking space. I couldn't move my car because it wouldn't go into drive or reverse or neutral. (The car turned on, but the engine wouldn't start). I tried turning the car off, but the car also wouldn't turn off. I let the car sit for 5 minutes then tried again and the car turned off. When it turned back on, everything was fine.
My questions is: Do I need to bring this into a mechanic? The car seems to work fine now, but I don't want to be stranded again or do damage to the car by driving it with an issue.
I loved my Prius to death on day 1 but now I am having some frustrating problems starting and stopping the car. I drove the car on Sunday for several journies with no problems. I even did a 120 mile round trip in which i cruised at about 65 and 70mph to test the mpg (around 50-55mpg which I was quite happy with)
Anyway.. onto today..
So I tried to start the car at 7:20 for my usual drive to work and tried the usual approach..
1) unlock doors
2) put key fob into slot
3) put foot on brake
4) press the power button
but nothing happened. I cant remember the sequence but various messages popped up. After that I thought i would lock and unlock the car but i wasnt able to, so I stepped out of the car and was still not able to lock the car. All I could do was lock from the inside the 3 other doors and manually lock the driver door. (and call a friend to pick me up!). So this evening I have tried again. still problems..
I have to use the mechanical key on the SKS to open the door, then plug into the slot on dashboard to start the 2004. Replaced battery, nothing changed.
There are two causes I suspect:
1. The CR2023 Battery was bought on Amazon for cheap, about 6 month ago. What's the voltage should be if no load?
2. The plastic cover on the SKS was broken. It could be that rain or not-so-clean-water gets into the electronic part.