Prius (2004-09) :: How To Drain Engine Cooling System
Nov 19, 2013
I'm coming up on my 120K service and will be replacing the spark plugs, PCV valve and I wanted to exchange the engine coolant (SLL pink stuff) for the engine. I replaced that stuff on the inverter side when they replaced the heater at a TBS recall.
I have a haynes manual and have searched on prius chat, but just cannot find specific instructions about this. On my '65 Ford mustang, there was a stop cock that I would just open or I would pull the lower radiator hose. To flush I would just pull the thermostat and run water through the system to clean then refill with antifreeze and water. I think that it will take about 6 quarts so I ave 2 gallons of the SLL pink stuff.
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I have a 2007 Prius, and bought it used about 4 months ago. I have not had any issues with it until last night. Last night I was driving home and the red triangle with the “ ! “ in the middle and check engine light came on. The car seems to be running fine, but it scared me to see the lights come on...so this morning I called my local Toyota dealership.
NOTE: I recently went to them for an oil change and they informed me that I had three recalls on my vehicle that needed replacing, but I did not get them replaced because I was told it would take 5-6 hrs (which I didn’t have at the time).
Anyway, they told me that it would cost $70 to have the codes read...and that did not include parts that may need replaced... I thought that sounded a little high for just having the codes read so I went to my local Autozone and they gave me this code:
P0A93 - Inverter Cooling System Performance
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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Ok, a year or two ago, a small leak in our 04 GX470 prompted me to have an a/c guy recharge system (little did I know how easy it was to do). At the time, he used his blacklight (during the day) and "thought" the condenser might have a leak in it.
Fastforward to now, the system stopped cooling. There isn't any noise from the compressor and the clutch does seem to engage normally.
I went to Autozone and rented the DVD on A/C systems. Using the gauges, I found there was no pressure on the H or L sides. I replaced the condensor (a no brainer ... it even came filled with desiccant/drier though I had to return it since the condenser didn't have the plugs in place so the desiccant/drier would have likely been 'wet' already ... no problem). I noted a very slight grainy, metallic in the system, but not very significant ... I did not flush any hoses, but I did look at all visible hoses for dye stains.
I connected a vacuum pump and kept it a 30mm Hg vacuum for 30 min and rechecked it 30 min later to see that it held the vacuum. The first time, it didn't, so I rechecked my connections and repeated. It seemed to work. I charged the system with 24 oz (27-29 is capacity so I wasn't quite full) and the system was nice and cold.
Unfortunately, cool only lasted 3-1/2 days!
The original condenser plug (for the desiccant reservoir) was plastic or teflon, but the one that came with my replacement was Aluminum. A replacement desiccant bag also came with another plug (a plastic or teflon one), but it seemed to strip so I opted for the metal one anyway (besides, it had two green 'O' rings to just one 'O' ring for the plastic one.
Two days ago, I thought I'd got it to hold the vacuum in the system, recharged it again (I dried the desiccant bag in the oven for 5 hours at 175 deg F to make sure I'd gotten rid of any moisture that had developed).
Dog gone it, it's hot again! Looking at it with my black light at night, I do see dye (I'm using the yellow kind) at the L-side Schrader valve and on the plug to the desiccant compartment, but no where else. Where's the drip line for the condensate so I can check to see if there's a leak in the evaporator?
I tried wrapping some teflon tape around the metal plug for the desiccant/drier, but it still wouldn't hold a vacuum when I tried using the pump tonight.
I have another dessicant/drier bag and plug arriving tomorrow since I'm afraid that it still could just be leaking out the base of the condenser, but I'm not sure.
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My 2009 has been showing the CEL off and on for a few weeks. Have had it read at auto zone twice, two different codes. Both cooling system related, but not the same. Today I filled the gas tank and it went back off.
Is it possible for the cap to be causing the light, or would the scanners tell that in a code? I just hate to take it to the mechanic when it is running fine and the light is not even staying on.
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I heard that you could place a flat screwdriver between the upper radiator hose and the end of radiator. Is this procedure really work?
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This video is about the Toyota Prius Gen 3 Temperature Indicators and cooling system overheating. I thought the prius did not have temperature indicators but found out it did, so this video is about how to know if your toyota prius is overheating and understand the basics of its cooling system.
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Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
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My 5.8L XL Windsor van is overheating when idling or in traffic but cooling just fine when moving on highways.
The 5 blade-fan comes on as soon as I turn the engine on and the radiator appears to be working just fine, cooling fluid moving and no leaks.
I am a landscaper in NYC and often haul heavy loads through slow moving traffic in the city and would love to drive relaxed and not with my eyes fixed on the temperature gauge awaiting impending disaster.
What is the best course of action?
a) change the clutch and see how it goes...
b) change the clutch, the fan and the water pump
c) install an electric fan
d) drive the van into the east river
Another issue, which has me and my friends puzzled, is that I changed the termostat a while back in an attempt to locate the problem; I replaced the old 195 degrees with a 180. Since the change 8 times out of 10 when I start the van as it is warming up I have to rave the engine for the termostat to open otherwise it does not and I end up with overheating bang. Once it is open no problem beside the overheating while idling.
And one final issue after driving for a while the motor surges when idling at a stop light or in heavy traffic. I have been thinking a bad air sensor but my mechanic or I have not been able to fix this issue for years.
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Turns out I've lost nearly all of the coolant from my secondary cooling system and am trying to diagnose the problem.
Things I noticed:
-All of the hoses appear to be in good condition.
-Coolant is dripping from the center of the engine bay.
-After inspecting the turbo area, it appears the valley below the turbo is wet.
The intake manifold is still on the truck, so I haven't been able to get a better look. Is there anything else near the area I am describing that has coolant? My guess is the turbo water inlet?
Perhaps this : Coolant leak on the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel - YouTube...
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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I have a 2008 Prius with 106,000+ miles on it. It was running fine till 2 days ago, I didn't start it yesterday and today when i went to start it, I get the Hybrid System Malfunction light, along with check engine, the red triangle and TPMS light. The gas engine tries to start up, then 1 second later makes a grinding noise and turns off.
I am in Toronto and its cold, but not THAT cold yet. So I am doubtful its temperature related. I checked the fluids and they all seem to be sufficient (engine oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid). I didn't notice any leaks under the vehicle either.
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Just finished a drain and fill on my 2007 Prius; I've done several cycles of bleeding the air out of the system involving: engaging the coolant heat storage tank pump, squeezing the hoses, opening bleeder valve, running the engine for extended periods of time, but the check engine light is still on. My question is will it go off on its own, or do I have to clear/reset a diagnostic trouble code. I read that disconnecting the connector to the coolant heat storage tank (which I did per the repair manual instructions) may cause a check engine light to appear. I also read that having significant air still in the coolant system will also cause the check engine light to appear.
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I started having a problem last week when my 2007 Prius was setting for two days while I was using my pickup truck. Found the 12 volt battery dead so I disconnected it and tested it with a battery load tester. And it showed it was bad. Well Ok, that figures, since it was an OEM battery and ~6-7 years old.
I have another 2007 Prius here for body repairs so I took the aftermarket (newer) battery out of it and topped the charge off in it. The battery load test indicated it was still a serviceable battery.
Put it in the car and cleared the red triangle, etc.. Everything was fine.
Since I was still going to be short one battery, I contacted Battery Systems, my shops battery dealer and ask them to drop off a new Yellow Top Optima that fits the Prius (FYI my shop price is $159.96). I would be a couple days til their deliver truck would be here and again I left the car sit for a couple days and drove my truck. On the day of the delivery, I had an appointment and drove the Prius, about 15 miles. No problem. Left it at in a street parking space for about 2 hours. Came out and all systems were dead. Nothing. Dome light was the only indication that the battery was so low that it was very dim. Head light were off and I hadn't used them while driving.
I called for road service and got a jump start and the systems came up and I was able to clear the Read Triangle when I got home by turning the car off and back on again.
The new Yellow Top Optima arrived shortly there after and I installed it. Drove the car for 6 days and this morning everything was fine when I drove to church and left it, head lites off (never had used them), came out 2 hours later and when I started the car, I got the Red Triangle and Ready but continued home. I turn it off and on again but this time I got no Ready but the Triangle and the whole sting of check light. Could only get it from park into neutral. Nothing else. Wouldn't clear.
Using my Torque Pro program, tried to read the ECU and it indicate no codes stored, Several tries, no codes or history. Called friend who has reader that will read the CAN Bus and he managed to find an odd P0503 code having to do with a speed sensor. Cleared that and the Triangle went out.
In the end I went and checked the voltage of the new battery and it was only 12.01 volts. I put the load tester on it and the condition is fine. Just the charge voltage is low.
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My 2009 prius last month with 34800 miles on it from toyota dealer, and im wondering if i should go ahead and get the transmission fluid changed,, it is almost 36k now and dont know if i should wait a litle longer, they did some minor services prior to sell it at dealer but transmission flud is not listed
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On my new-to me 05 gen II with 76k miles, don't think trans. has been flushed/changed. How often should this be done?
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My prius 2004 AC not cool what really problem come from ? I didn't do anything with it....
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We have experience dead car, no start conditions with our 07 Prius at least 4 times. The nearest we can figure is that there is a drain when we place the car in ACC mode, close the power windows then turn it off. This kills the car in less than 3 hours. The last time the hybrid system complained about being in neutral when jumped...we NEVER use Neutral
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I posted a few months that after replacing my inverter coolant that the drain plug leaked. I tried to tighten it but that did not work. New Aluminum washer was installed. I took it in about 1 month ago for the steering shaft and inverter coolant pump replacement. After they drained the system and refilled post inverter pump replacement It still leaks.
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Recently replaced the transaxle fluid on my 2007 Prius with 47,000 miles. This was the first time the transaxle fluid has been changed in the vehicle. After removing the drain plug I noticed a substantial amount of a thick, grease type substance on the bottom of the plug. When they have change the transaxle fluid on their vehicles? I found minimal metal shavings on the plug, but was concerned on the thick sludge/grease substance on the bottom of the plug. The ATF fluid that I drained was very dark. Definitely not close to the red color of new ATF WS fluid.
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Issues:
1. Getting beeping noise like the keys left in the ignition when the doors open although they are not- battery is good.
2. Red triangle on start up with warning about Transmission- Parking brake does not sensor as being on, when on - in the diagnostic screen.
3. Fog lights are no longer operating when just the parking lights are on, but are when the headlights come on.
These issues may be separate but they all kind of happened in the same time span.
Background - 2009 Prius, Optium Battery initially installed Spring of 2012, over 66,000 miles. Battery is good, all fuses are good.
Since installing the Optium Battery I have had to change the battery about four times - as I am not always driving so I keep a 12v battery on the ready on a battery maintainer just incase I need to change batteries - not optimal, but it works for now. For this reason I turn the SKS off.
Last week my FOB started working erratically for about a week. I would have to press the button several times to get my door to open. Then it started working again like a champ. The battery in the FOB was changed by the dealer in September.
I regularly use the fog lights without the headlights. At the start of the week the fog lights no longer worked with the parking lights and only with the headlights.
Later in the week the car started beeping whenever I exited the vehicle from the driver's side. The beep was the constant short beep like when you leave your key in the ignition. I had not and nothing else was on (I read the post about the guy who moved his car for a family function.) This is an issue I associate with me having to change the battery, however it would have to wait to the weekend and an onboard diagnotic indicated that my battery with load was running at 13.9volts. Every other time I would start the engine I would get the red triangle and retry and the car would start up fine.
I was not able to make it to the weekend to change the battery and had to get a jump to get home on Friday. Upon initial start up after the jump and changing the battery the car indicated that there was a problem with the transmission ... park on flat surface... (Message goes to quicky for me to write it all down and I could not repeat the situation to get the message again).
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