Prius (2004-09) :: How To Check Heater Core Leak
Aug 3, 2016
I drained all the coolant from the radiator and engine. After I fill up and bleed the air from the system. I'm very sure no air inside the engine. The next day I found have air gurgling inside the heater core. Look like have a small leak but I check all the engine, host and radiator no leaks. The last think to think is heater core and heater core host. How can I check both parts? If they leak. How hard to change? Can I DIY?
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My heater core has a leak in it, but I can not get it replaced so I want to bypass it. How do I do that? Is there a video somewhere? Or tutorial with pictures? F-150 1998 ....
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Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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I've got my dash pulled apart but am unclear as to what I need to do with my steering wheel. I've got a 2007 F150 manual that says "remove steering column pinch bolt" along with a warning about not allowing the steering column shaft to rotate once the bolt is out. I believe I have identified the bolt (sits a few inches away from the steering shaft's u-joint on the side facing the driver -?).
How do I ensure the shaft doesn't rotate? Do I need to make the wheel lock before removing the bolt? Will the steering column drop down thereby allowing the dash to be pulled away from the firewall or do I need to remove additional bolts?
I saw this video : F150 Heater Core part 1 - YouTube
For 98 F150, but the differences in design are throwing me off a bit.
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I bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
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I have a 08 f-150 with a 5.4. Started smelling anti-freeze in the cab, with that classic windshield haze of a leaking heater core. I don't have anything on the floor, nor is the engine heating up. Temp gauge is where it always is. This doesn't smell all the time.I just drove 4 1/2 hrs. with no problems. Other than the heater core ?
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I have changed the compressor for my lumina LTZ 2001... After that a noisy sound start to appear ... And cooling stopped after a while((around a week)) they told me to change the heater core. And I changed it.After that similar sound start to appear again ... And the cooling start to be reduced gradually ...and then no more cold air..The sound appears infront of the next to driver seat.
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Last week I got a hole in my lower heater coolant line and I did a quick fix and added G12 to get the car home but I got to thinking, the way I'm using this car now, I'm not so sure I need the heater.
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I have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
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The subjects say's it all, is there a DIY for bypassing the heater core? I already search i couldn't find it...
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I may have to replace the heater core on my 1990 Celebrity. Done from under the hood, or inside the car, under the dash? How difficult is this?
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4. I am currently deployed and my wife has the truck. Just yesterday she told me my heater core went out again the only way she knows this is its the 4th time in just over a year. What would cause a heater core to go out so many times in a short period? What should I have my wife do? I do not want to get rid of my truck and I wont be back for another few months.
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2005 Ford E Series heater core is "always on"?
That is, coolant always circulate through the core, there is no "valve" that turns it on or off.
The HOT / COLD dial opens and closes a door (vacuum operated) that allow air to enter the heater core area?
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I thought the air will be flushed out from the heater core over time. Heater works ok, but can hear a sloshing sound.
Does pressing the rubber heater hoses going to the firewall? Other methods? Take coolant tank cap off once in a while?
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How difficult is it to remove and install a heater core on a 2000 Toyota Camry with 4 cyc ?
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[URL] .... This is interesting! Too bad i just found it last night after i spent the last week removing my entire dashboard steering wheel/column. etc.
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We have a 2006 PT Cruiser. Within a year the Dodge dealer has replaced the heater core five times. They say it's a defective part each time, but I'm not so sure. Usually the core gets a leak after the car has been driven, then parked for a few minutes. When we restart it the heater core blows sending antifreeze vapor out the heater vents.
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I just put a heater core in a friends passat that was running just fine, drove it into the shop. I pulled the dash and replaced the heater core and put it all back together. Everything works, starter turns over and all but wont fire. I went over everything numerous times to find anything unplugged but all looks fine. Says something about an airbag fault when you turn on the key. Would this prevent startup? what can I do?
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My commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
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So today my CEL came on. I immediately looked at my mileage and I was EXACTLY at 500m past my oil change the other day. I checked the dip stick and lo and behold, it was about 3/4" past the full marker. I took it back to the oil change place and had them drain it down to a good level.
I had driven from NH to NY this week. I filled up my gas tank on my way home from NY. Gas cap was on nice and tight for sure.
The code is still on (not sure how many miles or drive cycles is required) for something to clear. I figured it was perhaps due to too much oil added. I decided a few hours later to take it to AutoZone and grab the diagnostic code. It's a P0420 code (Cat System efficiency below threshold: Air leak in exhaust before rear HO2S, AF Sensor Error, Fuel System Fault, Faulty Catalytic Converter).
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