Prius (2004-09) :: High Mpg (km Per Liter) At Idle Speed
Jul 2, 2011
I am a new buyer' bought my prius 2008 about a week ago. the is something i cant understand, when a the engine runs at idle speed, the fuel consumption monitor shows 99.9 km/liter ! ! ! and it's also calculated at the average... is it something i should worry about ?
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2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
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Had a first-time issue with my car today. Background, 2010 II bought in June, just short of 15K miles, never had any kind of mechanical issue.
While en route to work this morning, I was about halfway into my 15 minute drive to work, when I noticed my engine was idling very high, I would guess 2500 rpms. It started doing it while I was driving around 35 MPH, then continued doing it while I stopped at a traffic light, and continued when I continued driving to a speed around 50 MPH. The high idle while stopped was not transferred to the wheels, so it was not a safety issue as it would be in other cars.
When I got back up to 50, curious to try something, I hit the ECO mode button and the car returned to normal. I took ECO back off and the car was still fine. I had no further problems.
I would point out that this morning was about the coldest temp that the car has experienced. Outside temp ranged from 7 to 10 degrees.
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I've got an '04 Pkg IX with about 68k miles on it.
I've noticed that at speeds of greater than 60mph there is a distinct ticking noise (like the sound a bicycle makes when you turn the wheel "tick tick tick"). The noise is coming from the front end, sounds like near the passenger area.
The minute you drop down to speeds of around 50 or less it goes away.
I'm probably going to have to take it in to the dealer since I've already had an indy look at it.
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How the radiator fan goes into high speed? My 2006 Prius A/C works great as long as I am moving. But when stopped in traffic or at a light, the radiator fan does not go into high speed. So the A/C shuts off until I can get cool air back through the condenser.
I replaced the two fan relays, and when I do the fans run into high speed for a moment, then back to slow speed. Is there a temperature sending unit in the Prius I can replace?
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Started yesterday. Dry road. Brand new Perrelli P4s . at about 60-65 traction control comes on and car starts doing the "surging". I had the same tires on it up to this point so except for being new,no difference.
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I have a 2006 Prius and lately, the fan will stop blowing hard on long drives on hot days when the fan is set to High. This happened on a 3 hour trip on the interstate and again when I was driving some back road for about 2 hours. The first time, I noticed the cabin temp was getting hotter so I went to switch the fan speed higher and noticed it was already on high. It was not set to Auto.
When I got home, I let the car cool down for about 30 minutes and when I turned on the car, the AC was blowing full speed and was getting cold like normal. When the fan speed slowed down on its own on the interstate, it was probably blowing at a speed similar to what the fan would normally blow if set to the middle position or maybe even below that. Why the fan would slow down on its own when set on high.
I also just checked the temperature coming from the vent after running the AC on LO temp for about 10 minutes. It was reading 50 degrees with a digital meat thermometer and 46 degrees with an infrared thermometer. So, when the car is cool, the AC seems to be working fine. Just wondering about the fan speed and the fact that the car gets really warm when it slows down on its own.
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I just replaced the crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor, starter and both serpentine belts (power steering and alternator, a/c belt). She fired right up, but now it won't sustain idle, she dies unless you keep the rpm at 1000. It almost seems like a fuel issue, but it's just a guess at this point. What to check next? Computer is throwing no codes at all.
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I have a hyundai accent 2005 sedan (automatic transmission). The vehicle is a NON-US model. My gas consumption is approximately 7.3km per litre which is very high.
The spark plugs have been replaced , tires are at 30psi , and air filter is new. The spark plug cables are also new. The obdII device does not detect any issues and the engine check light is also off.
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I cleaned my daughters throttle body on her 2005 prius. Sprayed it down on the vehicle trying to fix my P0505 code and now its idling high. Is there a learn procedure to reset this after service.
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I've noticed the last few days that my Prius seems to be dropping MPGs horridly (even worse than the typical winter drop). The engine will idle hard and loud when stopped sometimes or when braking even. I noticed this morning, when I am braking to a stop, the MPGs are registering at 75 or below and it's running when idling and it seems to be running the gas engine more. It will sometimes shut off at a stop light, but hardly at all the last few days regardless of if it's been running 5 minutes or over an hour.
I thought maybe it was because it's cold-- we've dipped to single digits, but have been above 30 or so the last week or two and has only happened in the past two or three days. It happens at start up and at the end of my hour long commute to work. I've turned off the defrost and heat and it still does this.
She's a 2005 and has just over 105,000 miles. I just had her oil changed, a fuel injection cleaning and spark plugs replaced two days ago and had the inverter serviced and recommended transmission work done at 100,000 miles. Her water pump was replaced in the last year with the recall. I just replaced the air filter. There are no warning lights, so I"m not sure if anything would show up with the codes. I'm worried because it did not do this previously, and started to as soon as I got the car back from the injector cleanings and plug work...
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I have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
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After its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.
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1995 Tacoma with 2.7 EFI engine has high idle speed. When cranked cold idles at 800 rpm but as it warms up idle speed increases up around 1600 rpm. Does not idle down when clutch is fanned, have checked for vacuum leaks and have also checked most sensors. The exhaust manifold is cracked and I am not sure if this might be part of the problem. I am not convinced issue is not vacuum related but not sure of a definite way to resolve this question or issue.
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I bought my 3.6 in november with 2k miles on and now have 15k, in the last month or 2 I've noticed that at odd times it idles high. It normally idles at 500-600 id say and will randomly peak to 1000-1100. It wouldn't really bother me except it sounds like hell and I have to practically stand on the brakes for it not to jump forward. I've had 13k miles and 6 months of problem free driving
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1998 saturn SL2 idle speed changes low, high, back to low. Some times the car dies, can happen any time a few times in traffic. Once the engines dies the idle stays low for 5 minutes, then the problem goes away for a while (a week). You never know when it will happen.
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This is the code that comes up on my 2002 2.2 Cavalier. Camshaft sensor bank 1. After a lot of research I was led to believe it was most likely the upstream 02 sensor. Replaced it, engine light still on. Wipe codes, light goes off, turn off car, turn back on, light back on. What other possible problems could be causing the light to be on? It's been on the entire time I've had the car which is 3 years. I've had it e tested with the light on and it's passed with flying colors. It's up for an e test, actually I have 5 flipping days to figure this out, have it e tested and get a sticker for it.
I've been trying to figure it out for well over a month since I realized an e test was due and they've changed the way they do the tests now, they told me even tho the light most likely has nothing to do with the emissions they can't test it if the light is on period. I was told to start pulling fuses because it could be something as simple as a bad fuse. The car is in relatively good shape under the hood, no major problems and much of the car is still factory. No weird symptoms other then sometimes it will rev high at idle or low speed but as soon as I get to 4th gear it always balances out.
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Camry 2000 CE 102,xxx miles. My car died in Jan 14, after have P0770 for while, only Reverse gear work. The mechanics said the tranny need to re-build. I had him bring the tranny to tranny shop to re-build ($1650), then the code still pop up. Brought it back, they said the ECU needs to be reset. I had the car next day then that code pop up again!
They replaced the Solenoid E. The code is still there. Brought the car back, they took the tranny to rebuild it again. Drive the car for a day, the darn code pop up again, now they blamed on the ECU. Ok my mechanic guy replaced it at my own cost for part ($150) but the code is still there. This time they blamed on the high idle rpm approx. 1600-1800. My mechanic tried to fix the high idle speed so the tranny stop blaming other causes. He cleaned IAC valve, replace O-rings (I don't remember the location of them) then he said whenever he inserted the new ones, they start to crack!
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2004 Grand Cherokee. I was pulling a heavy trailer 1000 miles, and while coming down a mountain pass 50 miles from the end of the trip the check engine light came on. All other gauges (oil pressure, temperature, etc.) had not changed while climbing or descending and I was in low gear while descending to save the brakes. I drove the rest of the way to the destination without incident. I tried turning the Jeep off and restarting it several times to see if the check engine light would turn off and it stayed on. The next morning the light was off when I restarted it and has not come on again since. I hooked it up to a scan tool and received 2 codes: P0152 and P0132. 2 days later I noticed that it was revving high while idling and in Park. It would rev between 1500 and 2200 RPM while in Park, and at 900 RPM while in Drive. Also, while travelling at freeway speeds it seems like it's trying to downshift for no apparent reason. I hold the throttle still and have even tried cruise control and it intermittently increases engine speed, without changing ground speed. I assumed that I got the transmission too hot while climbing/descending and that the error codes listed above (related to O2 sensors) were associated with that, but now I'm wondering if something more has happened.
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Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
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I have a 1998 blazer 4x4... I had a issues with the car before and I had to turn the idle screw up until I fixed my problem. I now fixed my problem and I need to know what my idle rpm should be at.
After I fixed the original problem after about a day of driving I had a P0507 Idle speed High/Low. I turned the set screw down and lowered my rpm. After about 5min of driving the code went away on its own.
About 1 week later I am now getting the P0507 again and now it has a buddy. P0446 Evap System.
Questions what would my idle rpm be? Can the high rpm cause the EVAP code as well.
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