Prius (2004-09) :: Heater Takes About 10 Miles To Heat Up
Feb 21, 2013
07 Prius has 188,000 miles on it. Inverter Pump replaced 10/2011. At that time, dealer recommended "replace Heater Pump-making noise and pending code." I have not done this repair yet. In 12/2012, the heater is no longer operating instantly and takes about 10 miles to heat up and occasionally acts up and supplies heat intermittently. About a month ago, the Check Engine Light came on. I noticed that when I re-screwed my gas cap on, that light would go off. About 2 weeks later, light stayed on continually so I replaced gas cap. Light still will not go off and I have driven it 6 times on trips more than 40 miles each.
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I wonder why the AC takes time to start heating on cold mornings. Actually. It gives warm air after about 5_10 minutes of driving. Is that OK?
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I bought my 2006 Prius a little over a year ago from a Toyota dealer in the area, and within the first month I had a strange occurrence. I got into my car, pressed the power button to start the car and everything on the dashboard lit up, the power button flashed amber, the clock's numbers were just barely visible, and the car wouldn't start. Frantic that no matter what I did (shut it off, took the keys out, and tried again several times with the same results), I called the dealer who sold me the car and just as he was about to send out a tow truck to get me, I tried it one last time and it started. I took it directly to the dealership, they inspected it, and came back with the response of 'there's nothing wrong with it, I don't know why it did that. If it happens again, come back again.' No charge and supposedly no problem, I let it go.
Well, exactly 1 year later (to the day) and suddenly it happens again. So I take it to the dealer again. They checked the battery in the back and now they're telling me it's a bad battery cell. They insist the two incidents are completely unrelated. I left to go to class that night and had no more issues that day. But now I have a car that's been getting harder and harder to start. The power button doesn't even light up green anymore. I've noticed that I have issues when I open my door and the alarm goes off like I've left the key in the ignition, but I haven't. I knew when I opened the door yesterday and the alarm sounded that I was going to have issues. Sure enough, the car wouldn't turn on, and after two tries, it became completely unresponsive.
Which battery has the bad cell? They tested in the back, where the hybrid battery is. Also, it seems like there's something more serious than just the battery, considering I've read the manual a zillion and one times since I first had issues in hopes of trying to figure out what's been going on. The power button, like I said, flashes amber when it turns on, then disappears once it's on, but there is no green light instead.
Also, I've been getting repeatedly worse and worse gas mileage since the fall, the last fill only lasting me 350 miles or so with an mpg average of 34.6. I know it's winter and that the Prius typically gets worse gas mileage in the winter due to the heater being on. But the funny thing is, I don't drive with the heater on, even through the winter. I only use the heater when I need to defrost a window or I have company in my car because I like the cold. However, I got stuck on the I-90 for about 9 hours in the beginning of December and I noticed then that the heaters for the feet was varying how much air was blowing out of them after a few hours, and ever since then it's had the same problem. I figured it might have been a need to change the cabin air filters, but now I'm wondering if it points to something else...
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I have an '04 Explorer Limited and lately only blows cold air. I've read about the blend door motors but it's been too cold in MI to want to do much--so the truck sits.
When I was troubleshooting the problem I found that I'm not getting any vacuum signal to the heater valve in the coolant line. Before I contemplate removing the console & doing surgery on my dash I'd like to know for sure what position the valve should be in when heat is called for.
All the other vacuum actuators seem to be working normally and there's no disconnected hoses under the dash; and no leaks. Coolant reservoir is full.
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I bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
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I have a 2008 VW Jetta 2.5s. In winter i have noticed that my car takes too much time to heat up when the AC is turned ON. Generally, if i drive for 5 minutes and the temperature of the engine comes to the center ( in the temperature dial on the dash board), the hot air starts coming out. Is this normal. I haven't noticed this in other cars. Do i need to check anything?I do have the coolant liquid full.
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Im using my rear heat for the first time since I purchased my new GX premium, it seems that the rear heat takes forever to finally get warm and its really never hot even at the highest temp. I think overall I find that the gx takes awhile to start pumping out hot air compared to my RX, but I don't think its normal for the front to be blowing hot and the rear to still be cold. I already took it Lexus and they said it was all working fine.
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So.. I recently bought a VW Passat Variant 1.8T 2003 and it seems like the heating in the front seats isn't working, well it's dead on the passenger side but takes forever ( 45-55min ) on the driver seat to get warm. And it seems to be a normal problem, but how should I solve it?
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I'm thinking this is probably just the way they are, but I don't understand why........... I have a '12 F250 supercab 6.7 FX4.... truck is an XL, no supplemental heat or anything. If it sits outside over night, and I go out in the morning after say a 35-40 degree night, start it up and let it run 10-15 min then drive 5 miles down the road to town, both temp gauges are still pegged on the cold side, and there's virtually no heat blowing on the defrost. Even if it sits in the heated garage over night, same temp, same drive to town in the morning, same lack of any heat.
My old 2010 V10 that I traded for the 6.7, and my current 09 5.4 are the exact opposite of this. I can start the 5.4 cold, leave within a minute or two, and be making some heat within a few minutes. By the time I get to town, everything is well in the normal range, and I'm turning the heater down cuz it's too hot. Even once the 6.7 is fully warmed up the heater doesn't seem to make near the heat that the gas trucks do. I love the 6.7, I just find this a bit odd. Am I missing something, or is this just the way they all are?
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I've got a 99 with manual heater with no heat, a 23 code from the bcm, pulled fuse 19 for 5 minutes, still the same.Also when it was hot and we were running the air the passenger floor was wet. my question is what do I have to take off the dash (and how without breaking) to get to the heater?
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I have a 2010 GMC 3500 Savanah van with 6.0 motor. No heat in van. Engine operating temp is normal. Heater hose into core is hot. Hose coming out is barely warm. I am of course hoping for another explanation other then blocked heater core. The truck only has 45k miles. I am ready to backflush , but wondering if there can be any other explanation. A/C works normal.
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2005 Elantra here with 120k miles
Problem: Not heat will come out unless
1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.
2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.
Things I have tried:
Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)
Water pump replaced
No leaks
Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)
Flushed heater core with a garden hose.
Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.
Radiator cap has been replaced
Car does not run hot at all
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My heater seems to not be blowing as much hot air as it used to in my 01 Accent GS 1.6 L. The air is warm, but it is not warm like it is supposed to be. All selectors work well eg. fan speed and temp selector. Engine is running normal operating temps too. So in the end, it takes forever to get warm in the car, and to keep it nice and warm, it has be on fan speed 3. if not, the car will lose the warm air faster than it can push it out.
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I cannot get the heater to move heat to the floor in my 02 Camry LE I-4? All other modes seem to function just fine.
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My son's 98 Expedition has no heat. The radiator and overflow tank are full, there's no air in the system. The radiator hoses get nice and hot but the heater hoses stay cold. We can hear the flow through the vents change when we change the temp control so I'm sure the blend door works fine. Seems like the problem is that no hot coolant is making it to the heater core. So I'm wondering if there is a diverter valve somewhere that could be bad that's keeping the hot coolant away from the HC or if a clogged HC is the only thing that could cause this.
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Our 2005 Sonata GLS with 100,000 miles has a digitally controlled system for the heater & A/C. For more than 2 years the only way to get heat was to raise the temperature up into the 85 - 90 degree range. Now we must put it all the way up to 90. When we do, the heat is extreme.
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The heater in my '07 Sonata (V6) does not seem to do too much - the air gets warm, but not hot - even at full blast. (A real problem here in Wisconsin when the outside temp gets below zero). Temperature gauge always reads below the midpoint on the gauge. My hunch is I need to install a hotter thermostat.
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I have a 09 santa fe and it just started doing this. when we start it and let it warm up it will get the normal temp and will blow hot air but when we start to drive the thermostat goes back down to cold and it will blow cold air. I have had a problem similar to this before and taken it back to the dealership and they replace the same thing over and over. but this time its not fixing itself and it is staying like this. usually it will fix itself.
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Model is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
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So the story goes that one day my 2013 RX350 stop blowing heat from the air vent. I took my car in the dealer to have to take a look. First of all, it took them a WHOLE week to diagnosis the problem, second of all, a consultant told me that he FOUND a pen inside the heater box that caused the gear shaft to break, which is used to control the heater doors...
What is he talking about? More importantly, he's saying I "accidentally dropped a pen" from the passenger side compartment storage and it somehow caused the heater door broke?
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Ok I have a 97 f150 4.6L. My radiator has been bad for a while. With brown rust color. I replaced my radiator, thermostat, new upper and lower hoses. Everything runs great but I have no heat. I flushed everything including the heater core. Core is not leaking into cab, and both heater hoses are cold. FYI heat worked great until 5 days ago.
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