Prius (2004-09) :: Heater Growling When Engine Is Stopped?
Nov 29, 2013
This autumn a new noise has appeared in my UK 2004 Prius. When the heater is calling for heat and the engine is not running (i.e. coolant temp is above 63degC), a sort of 'growling' noise can be heard somewhere inside the heater core or beyond. A low-pitched rattling/rumbling which sounds rather like coolant mixed with air-bubbles going through a pump.
The only change there's been that might account for this is that I had Jemca Toyota in Bracknell carry out the hybrid coolant pump replacement (campaign 2509L). But I thought the heater was only fed by engine coolant, not hybrid coolant?
You can hear this noise stop when the engine starts, and restart when the engine stops. The Haynes manual seems to indicate that there's a pump for just this eventuality.
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I want to be able to turn the car on and warm up the cab before I drive but need to lock the door until I'm ready. How can I do this? It's a base model w/o SKS
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Looks like my mystery growling noise at idle is the WP going bad. Not leaking but making a racket at idle.
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My 2011 Prius plus made a growling noise from the front right engine compartment area the other day. Yesterday as I drove it to work...it stopped growling and the A/C stopped blowing cool air. The volume of air from the vents is the same, just no A/C.
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The heater/ac blower stopped working on my 2004 Lexus GX470. All the lights and display work but the fan doesn't work on any speed. I replaced the relay in the fuse box under the hood but no luck. I removed the blower and it works when I hot wire it to the battery. I checked the voltage coming into the blower and its at 13.5V, same as coming off the battery but it doesn't turn the fan.
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I have a 2004 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 192,000 miles that runs great. The issue I have though is the electrical system is going haywire (no pun intended). The front A/C and heater stopped responding to the level knob, therefore doesn’t blow, the dash lights will periodically dim and go off, the horn doesn't work when I want it to, and the A/C would sometimes blow warm air when it did work. The A/C used to work on all levels of the dial, and then over time, level by level, they stopped working; however, the back blower works well on both A/C and heater, which is operated by the overhead control knob. I open the front vents to allow outside air in, rather than recirculated air, and the air coming out of the vents is A/C air, but it only blows when I'm driving of course.
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Well, as the cold weather has approached, a minor issue has surfaced.
It appears my driver-side mirror heater is not working. Both mirrors still move as they should, and the rear defroster and passenger side mirror both heat as the should with the defrost button, but the driver side does not, as it is cold to the touch and naturally did not melt the frost yesterday.
I looked at the fuses hoping it would be something as simple as that, but it does not appear there are separate fuses for each mirror; the naming is a bit cryptic, but it looks like there may be one for both mirrors, which logically would not explain the situation.
Seems to me the heater itself is defective, and I am not exactly looking forward to opening up the mirror and/or spending money to fix this...
The Prius is a 2006, and I am up to 256K KM (~160K miles) to date.
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My Gen 2 2006 Prius engine works continuously and does not shut down even when car is stopped and parked. It shuts down after pressing power button. Problem started after I changed oxygen sensor and then car was reset by computer, could these actions cause the problem? What kind of problem is that and how to fix it...
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I recently got an oil change at EZ Lube and since then my engine seems to be running a little harder. You can feel it vibrating more than normal while idling and when stopped at a light when it turns off, it REALY turns off like it's choking out and sort of kicks the whole car a bit when it shuts off.
I just switched the air filter just in case as it seem similar to my old car that would die if the carburetor wasn't bringing in enough air, but I'm not as familiar with fuel injected engines. Could it be the fuel filter or other engine issue?
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My heater quit blowing hot or warm air all of the sudden. I took my mechanic and they said it showed no codes and were afraid to mess with it so I took it to a dealership. They worked on it most of a day. Said nothing showed a code as bad, they got into it and found the air going into the heater core was hot, but it was cool coming out. They spent some time flushing the coolant and said they found some sediment in the coolant fluid. They were hoping to flush out anything clogging the heater core.
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The a/c and heater are not operating properly. Not cold enough and not getting warm. Low freon, compressor going bad?
On a brighter note...I've sat looking down into a volcano that could blow at any moment.
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How can I tell if the engine block heater in my 2010 Prius is working (dealer installed)? The one on my old Subaru made a hissing noise; the one on the Prius makes no noise.
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I have not had my prius in winter yet so running the heater is new. I am noticing the engine will turn off when warned up as in summer if the heater is off. You turn the heater on and boom engine kicks on. Which of course kills my mileage and it's frustrating. Is it supposed to do this or is something wrong with my prius?
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My BMW heater gets hot and blows hot air when it is stopped and sitting still. Then vent ton the right of the steering column blows cold air the other vents blow warm air when. Drive, but not hot. It only gets hot when I sit still....they replaced the thermostat and have ran all the codes but cant find anything wrong. The shop I use told me. Should take it the dealer and have them look at it. The deal told me the would star wi replacing the radiator then if that doesn't work they would replace the heater core.the car is in outstanding shape but the deal just wants me to pay for exploratory surgery basically.
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07 Prius has 188,000 miles on it. Inverter Pump replaced 10/2011. At that time, dealer recommended "replace Heater Pump-making noise and pending code." I have not done this repair yet. In 12/2012, the heater is no longer operating instantly and takes about 10 miles to heat up and occasionally acts up and supplies heat intermittently. About a month ago, the Check Engine Light came on. I noticed that when I re-screwed my gas cap on, that light would go off. About 2 weeks later, light stayed on continually so I replaced gas cap. Light still will not go off and I have driven it 6 times on trips more than 40 miles each.
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I drained all the coolant from the radiator and engine. After I fill up and bleed the air from the system. I'm very sure no air inside the engine. The next day I found have air gurgling inside the heater core. Look like have a small leak but I check all the engine, host and radiator no leaks. The last think to think is heater core and heater core host. How can I check both parts? If they leak. How hard to change? Can I DIY?
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I have a used 2009 Gen II with 117k miles. While taking a trip and climbing a high hill on the five, a yellow triangle came on the monitor with the word problem. Now I was going slow up the hill 55mph. I never experienced it with any other car. The battery went to purple and heater did not work.
After pressing the problem triangle it would turn to a thermometer signal. So i assume that the car is over heating. I make i to Los Angeles but then i hear a hum after shutting off the car. It's the pump running much louder.
I fill the radiator with correct fluid from the dealer and I'm thinking that the monitor warning came on only because of the fluid level. No warnings from then on.
So I buy a mini VCI and it has p0128 logged. So I'm thinking that the thermostat doesn't work. However I hear fluid moving from time to time. One day before a trip in the cool morning (around 55 degrees), I open the radiator cap to make sure it's full. It shoots up like a fountain, there was pressure/air in it.
So How do I address the p0128 problem and the no heater problem?
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So my aux heater stopped working. It may just be a failed glowplug as per the error code but as there is significant corrosion around the controller I thought it best to get hold of a second hand unit, which leads to a couple of questions.
1. Can the glow plug be changed with the heater in situ?
2. What needs to be removed to get the heater out? Is it a big job?
Even my mech says it's easily the most complex car he's worked on, and he's had Ferraris/Porsches etc in before!
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Prius 2004 with 86K miles. My brake led light on the driver side stopped working completely the other day. For some time now (6 months) i knew the top led of the brake light was not working, but yesterday I discovered that the whole led is failing. tail and parking light on the same assembly are working fine. I pulled off the plastic door inside the trunk and I checked connections for faulty ones but everything was tight in its place. Is there anything else I can do before preparing to go to the "butcher" dealer?
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Our 46K mile 2012 Tiguan starting making some pretty loud whining/growling/rattling engine noises recently so I took it to the dealer shop and they diagnosed a bad accessory belt tensioner. However, they didn't have one in stock and would have to order it. Well, that's fine but it's a 300 mile round trip to the dealer so I came home and ordered one from ECS Tuning.
I found a copy of an official VW (ETKA?) procedure on the web for replacing the tensioner for the TSI in a Golf so I suspect the procedure for a Tiguan is similar: remove the bolt for the secondary water pump and move the pump out of the way, remove the end bolt on the tensioner mounting shaft, remove the three bolts from the pendulum/dogbone, support the engine, remove the top two bolts from the passenger side engine mount, drop the engine about 2 inches and pull the tensioner out.
To be honest, I was very surprised that the dealership didn't have a tensioner in stock. This was a rather large and pretty good dealership shop (three service advisors). I guess accessory tensioner failure is really rare on the TSI.
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I have an 05 RX330 with about 120K on it. I've had it for about a year - no real issues. The car has a slight rattle coming from the engine compartment on the driver side on acceleration. From what I have been reading, that noise is normal on these cars. What I don't find normal is that it has an intermittent loud growl on quick acceleration from a complete stop. It sounds like the exhaust of a muscle car from the 60s, like Toretto's car in the Fast and the Furious.
It happens like at 2500 RPMs for a few seconds then it goes away. The noise is in the same area. It's driving me nuts. And just like everything, whenever I take it in to the shop to have it checked out - it does not make the noise. So far it has happened twice. Last week and last night. I'm afraid it be the transmission, but no check engine light, no loss of power, and the transmission shifts normal. I'm thinking it's an exhaust leak, but as mentioned before - no check engine light. If there was an exhaust leak I would imagine it would trigger an emissions code.
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