Prius (2004-09) :: HV Fan Not Working / Malfunctioning
Jun 19, 2013
Driving home tonight...noticed SOC was PINK...2 to 1 bars. First thought was the HV FAN...!
I JUST did the HV fan maintenance the other day and I'm certain I buttoned everything back up correctly..... There are only 2 connections to the fan that I unhooked and then rehooked back up...... I'll re-open tomorrow to check for loose connections.
Is this symptomatic of the fan not working? and Is there any way I can test the fan?
I've driven the car for about 200 miles in the 4 days since the maintenance but I rarely keep eye on SOC so I'm not certain what it's been reporting thru that period...Just looked tonight for some reason. Maintenance light has been on for awhile before I performed this ....but I'm guessing that's just Oil change needing to be done.
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2006 Prius, 114K miles. In the last week started getting the intermittent warning of "There is a problem with the parking transmission lock. Place the car on a flat surface and fully set the parking brake." Car would not start, would only go into neutral. All accessories work fine, seems to be plenty of 12V power. Did a lot of research and determined that the most likely cause was a failing 12V battery. Used the diagnostic mode to check voltages, had 12.1 at "READY", 11.6 under auxiliary loads, and 14.1 with engine on (I did get the car to start eventually but can't figure out how and under what set of circumstances it would start).
So I ordered a 12V battery and replaced it. After replacing, I still had the Hybrid warning light, but after stopping and starting the car 3 times it went away. Car worked fine for a day but now the intermittent warning has returned. With the warning on, the parking lock seems to be fully engaged (car won't roll even on a slope).
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We've got a 2005 with 110K miles on it and recently the Combo Meter malf'd -- in the space of a couple days, the car didn't want to shut off twice, and once at start-up the instrument panel didn't light up. Since then it has run just fine. Took it to the dealer and they want to replace the combo meter. We never got the "Warranty Enhancement" notice (which has, of course, expired).
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I was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
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I have a 2011 f150 xl with the basic climate system. I'm having a couple issues with my hvac system. Initially when I took over payments on this truck I was getting a little popping noise under the dash that would go away after a couple pops. I took the bezel off to look at the radio and how it was mounted for a separate issue when I put everything back together I started the truck and now that popping is constant (it is the blend motor actuator, I've already determine that and have a new one coming) the other issue I got is that now the ac will only blow through defrost no matter what button I push. When I start up it will blow out the defrost like the flap is in default then it will blow out of the dash for a few seconds and then go back to blowing out of the defrost. I still have speed control tho I don't have 1 ,which I didn't have before that, and I haven't tried temp yet but I'm assuming it still works. Do the newer trucks still use vacuum to control the flaps or is it all electronic? I've noticed when I look at the actuators they all have a plug end instead of a vacuum port. And would the defrost vent issue be a dash control issue or would it be the actuator for that one a
s well?
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A dealership is attempting to charge me several hundred dollars to replace blown fuses that they claim is a result of an overpowered attempt at charging a seemingly dead 12V battery. The interesting part is that after also replacing the air/fuel ratio sensor (which they initially claimed was the cause of a check engine light even after replacing the fuses) Toyota is telling them that the ECM should be replaced in order to extinguish the check engine indicator.
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I have a 2004 Mazda 3s with 210k miles. Both the remote key's just stopped working. The dealership tried replaced batteries and tried reprogramming the key's but said that the computer is not accepting the keys (these are original keys). They suggested replacing the computer but in my opinion the car is not worth that much ...
I tested the remotes at autozone and they seem to transmit rf signals. The door locks or control modules work fine - the problem appears to be the remotes or the communication between ecu & remotes.
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Our 2010's NAV head has recently begun throwing fits. Sometimes it's hard to get it into route planning mode via the touch panel. But, what's more prevalent is when the "hard" buttons are pressed the unit does other things, most often, for example, is that the "map" or other hard button is pressed and instead of the screen going where it's supposed to it'll switch radio stations.
Nothing foreign has been spilled, stuffed, or crammed into it. The car is garaged. Any way to do a hard reset?
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The other day my CD player in my 04 Prius (130k miles) started malfunctioning.
When I made sharp turn, it tried to eject a CD - and kept trying, turning the radio off. Then a couple of fuses blew and the entire display went off, fuel indicator in dashboard stopped working, and VSC light came on. The dealer replaced the fuses, but they promptly blew again before I left the parking lot. And the speakers stopped working.
07-09 Radio (with Aux Jack) in 04-06 Prius?
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I'm having some electrical issues with my 04 jetta and have no idea what is wrong. This came up recently after changing the solenoids in my 09A tranny (side note: tranny works now ).
[URL] .....
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I think my tire pressure warning light is malfunctioning. I check all the tires with different tire gauges and they are all showing around 40 psi. I reset the system by holding down the button and let the light flash 3 times after I check them. It is only sporadic and does not stay on unless one of the tires is low. I did have a loose valve stem, that I tightened myself. When it does this it seems to come on and flash before going off and does not stay on. Sometimes it stays on for a little while and then goes off. Could it be a bad sensor?
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I have been having sporadic issues with the button/system of my drivers side window. It is an '06 XLT SCrew. The window always reponds when I am lowering, but there are times when I hit the button and it won't come up. I wiggle the armrest, or fiddle with the button and it will eventually work. I haven't been to a dealer yet, but I know this will totally fail at the most inconvenient moment. The other three windows work great.
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Prius 2004 with 86K miles. My brake led light on the driver side stopped working completely the other day. For some time now (6 months) i knew the top led of the brake light was not working, but yesterday I discovered that the whole led is failing. tail and parking light on the same assembly are working fine. I pulled off the plastic door inside the trunk and I checked connections for faulty ones but everything was tight in its place. Is there anything else I can do before preparing to go to the "butcher" dealer?
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I bought this 2004 Prius in 2010 with 104K miles. Now at 117K. When outside temp goes to 86 F or above, the a/c blows warm air. If I stop A/C for a while, and restart it, it will blow some "cold" air for 10 seconds, then back to "warm" again. at below 82F it seems work normally, although I never felt "cold" enough like my other car Lexus LS 400 1998.
My mechanics found (using his diagnostic device) that the thermometer temp measure indicate as 28F when outside was at 90F. He can not figure it out. Is it possible that temp sensor (thermometer) gone bad? Or it is just a loose connection which might cause the resistance value change? He added enough refrigerate fluid for the car.
I noticed in glove box there are evidence of glue used. I suspect that the car had some body damage on right side and being fixed.
Anyway, the a/c problem so far happens consistently at around this temp. I have no any other problem on this beautiful car.
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At the moment my remote will not lock or unlock the vehicle, although the indicator light on the remote lights up on key press. ( this vehicle is not equipped with sks ).
This is a brand new key Fob (under a month old) as I had the old one replaced under warranty. I can still start the vehicle by placing the remote in the dash as usual, only the buttons don't work. It worked perfectly fine this morning, so I am not sure what the deal is.
Recently replaced:
-Key Fob itself ( about a month ago )
-12 v battery ( about 4 months ago )
- combination meter ( about a month ago )
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Looking for the answer to this question. This could possibly save me some money.
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OK I think my 2004 Prius is haunted.
Last week both brake lights (just the upper, red part) stopped working.
A day later the right/passenger side light came back on.
Then the next day, the left/driver side light resumed working too.
Today both went out again.
Then the right side came back on.
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Got some bad news about the main display in my 2004 Prius from dealer yesterday. The display unit has been working intermittently as of late and after taking a look at it the dealer said it needed replacing.
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I have prius 2007 of the Japanese make (140k miles). Yesterday, my keyless fob stopped working. I couldn't use it lock/unlock my car; however, it is starting the car just fine. I replaced the batteries on the fob but no avail. The small red light on the fob is shining like normal. There is no abnormal behavior in the car otherwise. What should I check?
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