Prius (2004-09) :: HID Keeps Going Out - Replaced Burnt Terminal
Oct 11, 2012
So a few months ago my right front HID headlight went out and was replaced by Toyota (under the 50K HID Headlamp warranty). The next day, it was out again. I went back to the dealership and they looked a little deeper and told me it was a burnt terminal. What the report said was: "Found Burnt Terminal #1 connector H5 and head lamp cover, harness. Need to remove right head lamp assembly to:
*Replace Rear Headlight Cover
* Wire harness between cover and ecu
* Replace connector H5
* Repair Terminal #1 at connector H5
The headlamp was fine for a while and then the problem came back recently. The right headlight would be out when I started the car... and then it would usually flick back on after driving for a few minutes.
View 13 Replies
Advertisement
So I bought an unused/uninstalled HID kit (Xenondepot) from another member on the board recently and installed it in my GX470. I have had aftermarket HID kits (Toyota OEM ballasts and D2S Philips bulbs w/adapters) in other cars so I know how to install them and what I need to be careful of (don't touch bulbs, good connections, etc).
Well, after about three hours of burn time over a few days with about 6 start up strikes, my drivers side is failing. The bulb did not strike one time so I turned the lights off, waited 10 seconds and turned it back on to restrike the bulbs and the both came on. When I started the car later that evening, the drivers side did not work again. I tried the same restrike process and no dice. The drivers side never came back after that.
I know XenonDepot has no liability to me since I did not buy the kit directly from them but I am not sure where I should buy a single replacement bulb from since it seems like the new bulb was defective (the kit was brand new and uninstalled).
View 11 Replies
After replacing one of the HV batteries defective out of the 28 in my Gen 2, I reinstalled a working battery and the car won't start. With the car turned on, I went ahead and measured current on the HV battery side and get 220, and on the car side terminals there is no power. The service switch is working correctly and engaged. For some reason the voltage is not being relayed to the car side.
View 9 Replies
I just replaced a burnt out tail/brake lightbulb and found that I had sockets for 5 lights yet only 3 were filled....two were empty. How could this have happened and shouldnt they all be filled? I replaced the blown one but I feel like I should get 2 more per side to make it a full housing. I also am not certain what kind I need . The turn signal bulbs are fine....it's just the tail/brake light bulbs. Why were they not filled? 2002 V6 Passat.
View 7 Replies
I'm possibly being paranoid, but twice, after hard driving, my Prius has smelt strongly of burnt plastic/rubber.
View 19 Replies
I have burnt driver side H4 light but am not able to change it. After turning the rubber dust cover it comes loose but is stuck somewhere (in the middle) and won't come out. The power connector is disconnected.
I don't want to force it out so is there a trick for this? The metal pin is still holding the bulb in.
Is it a big operation to take the whole sealed beam (is that right word for it? The whole front light box I mean) off so I could take a better look. There is not too much space behind the fuse box.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2004 prius with about 350k miles on it, bought it about a year ago and we have had our first trouble with it (it's been great so far, and when you consider it's mileage, pretty impressive).
We were driving along and a constant alarm started (beeeeep!!!) and lights on the dash lit up. I assumed it was cranky because the rear hatch wasn't closed or something and kept driving (we didn't have far to go). It wasn't long before smoke with a distinctive burnt electronics smell started coming up from the dash at the front left lower corner of the windshield. Then the brakes started to feel very unresponsive and sluggish (no regenerative braking either). She still runs and drives. So here is where I am now:
The car screams constantly and the brake light, ABS light and the (!) light are all lit.
I've been poking about and figured out that my inverter coolant pump isn't working properly. At this point I am wondering if this is just pure coincidence though (i.e. perhaps its not been working for awhile). I will be replacing this soon.
I checked the error codes and they all seemed to be un-related and or old (catalytic converter not working properly, ran out of fuel, etc). I cleared them and no new ones are populating. (car has only been driven around the block 3 times though)
The 12 V battery seems to be working fine, and it's getting the proper charging voltage. (voltage tested through the console under various conditions)
I have reset the braking system (bridging the #4 and #13 pins thing) and this turned the buzzer and lights off for about 20 seconds. Still no proper brakes. And of course the noise and lights just come back. Still no error codes via my Bluetooth reader and smartphone.
I have my doubts that replacing the inverter pump will fix this brake issue. I am familiar with working on cars, but this is my first foray with 1) a modern car and 2) a Prius. (Previous cars are all mid 90s or older, so I'm a little bit overwhelmed here...)
View 16 Replies
Just replaced 12 volt battery from a dealer nearby. Got it in OK, but my "!", ABS, and VSC and Brake lights are still on. Pads and shoes look fine. Is there a reset button or mode for these lights. I was under the impression that the display voltage test of 9 volts (dying battery) was causing the lights to come on. Just want to make sure there is no reset on the lights (like after an oil change) before I move on to other testing or the mechanic. The other symptom I've had along with these lights is the yellow arrows coming from the battery don't stop when I come to a stop. I have to put in neutral or park to get them to stop not matter how hard I press on the brake. This happened a couple years ago, along with the lights above, but went away. I wrote it off at the time to a bad connection somewhere.
View 13 Replies
I had the PCV valve replaced around 60K, then at the next service they wanted to do it again (not reading the records that they had already done it). Then at 80K they wanted to do it again, I declined. Today it was in for 85K service and they said "the PCV valve is dirty and needs to be replaced." The advisor told me after the initial replacement at 60K the interval is 20-25K miles.
View 10 Replies
I replaced the HV Control ECU on my 2007 Prius, because my coding scan read POA1D. Now the lights on the dash all light up, but the Ready light does not come on.
View 1 Replies
Purchased an 04 Prius with 140k miles and bad HV battery. Used torque app and pulled original codes for bad HV battery. I was able to drive/limp the car home for tear down and replacement. After installing a used HV battery that had 80k from and 08 car. It will start but shutdown after a few seconds. I was able to put it in to drive and move it but it still dies. Energy display shows no battery status and now I get the connect to air conditioner communication warning. The battery's are reading 15.2 volts each from the torque app these are read in pairs so seeing 14 readings all within .1v of each other. I am not getting any codes from the computer.
View 19 Replies
The dealer tells me my batteries in my low tire sensors are bad. The low tire light on the dash won't go out. So I need to replace the TPMS sensors in my '06 type 5 Prius. I know I can pick them online much cheaper than at the dealer. My question is, is there some reprogramming that will need to be done. I'm assuming it will be some convoluted sequence with buttons on the dash similar to turning off the backup alarm, etc.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2005 Prius recently replaced the hybrid battery. Not so happy with it, my mpg b4 was 49-51 mpg, now I only get 40-45 mpg. I notice the car is a little weaker and the ICE rev higher everytime I accelerate.
View 5 Replies
2005 Prius I picked up a few weeks ago decided to eat both of it's batteries for lunch and leave me high and dry. I replaced the aux battery yesterday which I was lucky to get at cost at the toyota dealer since the aux battery was original. Put it in and all was well with the car for the rest of the day. Got in it today and headed out and was welcomed with the big stupid "!" triangle, the regen brake warning, check engine light, "PROBLEM" written on the display with a picture of a "!" inside a car outline, and some severely reduced performance. So I looked online and found a place with a bunch of low mileage batteries out of smashed up 2009's.
View 19 Replies
My car started giving me trouble I ran the scan tool and it told me that cell 6 was bad on my battery. I replaced the cell and put the battery back in now the check engine light is on and the problem triangle is on and the car wont start and only shifts into neutral but when I check for codes i get nothing .
View 6 Replies
I have a 2008 Prius, MFD died one day, screen completely dark and all buttons on it are unresponsive. I used a voltmeter to check the 12v battery which had troubles last winter (had to jump it once) and it was at about 10.6v so I just replaced it with an Optima battery. Sadly the MFD is still blank.
The MFD actually came on for a second a couple weeks ago which led me to believe it was still functional and just not getting enough power from a failing 12v.
View 12 Replies
I have a recently purchased 2005 Prius- Mileage-150.3k having several lights on the dash: ABS/VSC/Engine Check/ Brakes, etc. See attached screen shot. Initially, I got into the shop and had the codes read out several codes. In all, I was informed the root cause was a bad 12v and bad hybrid batteries. By this time , the car was still moving, though not very smoothly. however, less than a week thereafter, the car couldn't start again.
We decided to replace the 12v first, hoping to get it back to start but it wouldn't. I've checked the fuses in the engine compartment as well as on the steering column- all okay. I've checked battery voltage, it's now at 12.3v. When I try to start, the Ready light would simply flash for 2-3 seconds before going off. I've rechecked battery connections as well as the brake controls by the 12v battery- all well tightened.
View 19 Replies
I've attached some pictures of what it looks like. Sometimes there are no lines and just black but the display button still overlaps. Everything else seems to be working. I think this happened when I got the 12v battery replaced. I am also not sure I have a nav dvd. How do you eject those DVDs?
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 Prius with 215000 miles but the engine developed a clacking noise that could of been bottom end, could of been lifters or could of been a broken timing chain tensioner......anyways I decided to purchase a used pruis engine from a totaled 2006 Prius with 102k miles for $200.
I installed the engine, removing it from the top rather then dropping it from below.
View 2 Replies
I purchased a 2005 Prius with 54k miles with a rebuilt title July 2011. About a month after I purchased it (from a private seller) I started to hear a slight grinding noise. It turned out it was the transmission/transaxle. I drove it for about 4 more months since I knew I had to replace the trans anyway. Next, I sourced a used transmission from the guy I purchased the car from. I installed the trans myself. But, it wouldn't run right at all afterward... it wouldn't go over 5mph and it would jerk. I took it to a Toyota shop and was told that it now had a dead 12v battery and HV battery.
I had both replaced. It still had the same issue with drivability. I took it to the dealership for a proper diagnosis and was told the transmission was the issue. So, I purchased another used transmission and installed it. I was very careful to make sure everything was installed correctly. So, now the car won't drive at all or even go into park. Attached is a picture of the current screen, which says "The transmission 'P' lock mechanism is abnormal. Park your car at a flat place and apply the parking brake completely." So, did I get another bad transaxle?
As I see it - my choices are
1) put in another used transmission, which I could do (3rd time is a charm) ,
2) spend more money to diagnose the car again or
3) sell it as is and get nothing for the car
View 19 Replies
I took my 2005 Prius to dealer and was told both battery computer and battery CPU were bad (easy $4,000.00 fix). So, I pulled big battery, located bad cell and replaced with similar voltage (7.9 VDC used cell). After re installing, the car will only go to neutral and will not start. Note, before tear down, car would start and run (I drove home from dealer). Before pulling big battery I could reset trouble lights for short time by removing ground to AUX 12V battery. Now, lights don't change and are always on. Car will not start or run and will only go in "Park" and "Neutral" and "B" does not show on dash like usual.
View 19 Replies
