Prius (2004-09) :: Glove Box Won't Shut
Jun 15, 2012
Need to repair or replace the hardware for the lower Glovebox latch for 2004 Prius....
View 4 RepliesNeed to repair or replace the hardware for the lower Glovebox latch for 2004 Prius....
View 4 RepliesThe lid on my "upper" glove box will not stay up. How to fix this? I cannot figure how to get to the mechanism.
View 19 RepliesI took my 2006 Prius into the dealership a few months ago for an oil change. When I drove the car away from the dealership I heard a weird pop from the area of the glove box. When I opened the glove box later to see what had happened, the glove box only opened about halfway. Some part of the spring mechanism had been compromised.
When I returned to the dealership telling them to fix the glove box, they examined it and concluded that the glove box was opening just fine. Looking for a brief video of upper glove box opening, to show the extent to which it fully opens on its own? I would like to present such a video to my dealership folks, who seem not to know how their own parts are meant to function.
This is a new issue for my 2006 Prius. All seemed to be functioning normally until recently. Now, when my headlights are on, and the highbeams are off (highbeam lever pulled back), when I shut my car off, my highbeams come on. I then have to push the highbeam lever forward to shut them off. When the car is turned back on, if the headlights are turned on, the highbeams come on. I have to pull the lever back to shut them off. In other words, the correct "on/off" position for the highbeam lever is dependent upon whether the car is turned on or off. This has resulted in a number of occasions of my parked car being left with the highbeams on, draining the battery, and me coming back to a dead car.
View 1 RepliesIn the last week the prius has been acting weird. Car goes back to IG - ON after I shut off. I have a 2006 155k miles prius
View 4 RepliesWhen Powering off my 2004 Prius, here's what happens: Press Power button, Power button and Dash display(above the sterring wheel) go off, while the MFD screen stays on(center console) - although temperature is no longer reported on the consumption screen, the consumtion screen is still on, power outlets stay on, and clock is still on. Car refuses to lock driver's door, even with keyfob located outside of car. Car beeps as though still on - I disconnect 12V battery to leave vehicle(and not wear down the 12V). Happened for 3-4 days, went away for a week, and its been back for a week since.
Traced problem so far to the three cables behind the 6 CD changer/radio unit. If the middle of the three plugs on the back of the radio/CD player is unplugged, the problem goes away, so does my bluetooth audio. I need to be able to use handfree while driving in my state, also haven't figured out what else is gone when that cable is unplugged. Radio, CD Player, and Navigation still work with sound when that same middle cable is unplugged.
I recently borrowed an engine code scanner after my check engine light went on and got a P0505 code on my 2004 Prius with 185,000 miles and started to fix things. I replaced the PCV and spark plugs as well as the air filter. It ran fine, but decided to also clean the MAF using CRC MAF cleaner and also clean the throttle body and butterfly using CRC Throttle Body cleaner. I also carefully washed out the engine compartment using Gunk Foamy.
I seem to have put it all back together, but now the ICE won't shut down, even when warm, and actually wants to rev beyond what seems to be needed. I got another scanner and got some stuff that I honestly don't understand. It said 2 codes then gave me P0505 followed by:
Mil On
Monitor 0 inc
6 ready
misfire
fuel
comp
catalyst
evap
O2 sensor
I measured battery on my 2007 Prius by MDF, it's only 11.9V, charging is about 14V. When I turn on ACC mode, and Radio is on, I think it shut down the radio after about 15minutes; I cannot put the car in ready mode after it shut down. I have to jump it in order to put in ready mode. Is it my turn to replace this auxiliary battery?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 with 46,000 miles. Today I went out to run an errand and when I got to the store, the start button would not shut off. At the same time the dashboard went dark so no speed or mileage could be seen, but no warning lights came on. I tried pressing it repeatedly to no avail.
View 12 RepliesI will test the 12V after work. I just replaced that 4 months ago.
View 19 RepliesAs stated above, our 2006 Prius with 28,000 miles gurgles when we arrive to our destination & turn the motor off. It makes this sound for about one minute & then stops. What this might be & how to correct if needed ?
View 6 Repliesi have a 2006 prius with 110k on it and a few days ago all the warning lights started coming on (check engine, vsc, red triangle, (!) ) this morning the car was completely dead so i replaced the 12v battery and it startedup fine and the lights all went away. i drove a few miles to work and the lights came back on and the rear ac will not shut off. it just keeps blowing full blast and the engine will not cut out at idle like it normally does. im assuming this is because it is trying to power that rear ac.
View 19 Repliesmy wife has been driving the prius and has noticed that the dash and mfd lights will shut off for a split second sometimes. They always come back on rather quickly( about one second).
View 6 RepliesI had our '04, 149,000 miles in for PA state inspection and emissions test as well as to be looked at because of a P0505 diagnostic code. The symptom of the diagnostic code was that the ICE would not shut at all. The past few months I simply cleared the code (ScanGauge) and things were immediately back to normal until the check engine light came on again.
Anyway, in response to the P0505 today they replaced the air filter (I checked, it is installed correctly), checked for vacuum leaks (all okay) and cleaned the throttle body. My wife picked up the car this afternoon from the repair shop (independent, but mechanic trained by Toyota for Prius). Upon arriving home she said I needed to drive it because it is acting very strange. We drove it this evening and indeed it is acting strange. A number of times the engine revved up to 2800-3000 rpm when my foot was off the gas, e.g. slowing to go around a corner or even when sitting at a traffic light. The SOC was normal (blue bars), not high or low. It was also interesting, because even though the transmission was in D, the car was not pulling to go forward, e.g. at the traffic light-- in D, engine revving, but car just sitting there as though it was idling or ICE off.
The ICE would shut down and go to battery mode appropriately. However I noticed that the mpg would not go about about 110 when backing off the gas going down a long hill at around 50 mph (engine warm, battery normal charge). Normally this would bump it up to around 200.
This latter symptom of mpg not going about 110 is a bit subjective and we only drove around 20 miles this evening, but I know we did not experience the engine revving before the car being serviced today.
My door swings shut in the wind or if the car is not parked level. It looks like an easy piece to replace but if theres a trick to installing it.
View 4 RepliesI was driving on the highway when everything on the car went dark-the wipers (it was raining) stopped-and I was left just coasting. The hazards worked. I managed to coast through the exit and off the access road which is where the car is now, the next morning.
Once again: Car running fine, with no problems when an instantaneous shutdown occurred.
The key fob's battery had gotten to the point that the Smart System wasn't working so I assumed that the fob battery had gone totally dead and wasn't communicating with the car while inserted in the fob slot. I replaced the fob battery and it activates the Smart System now.
The 12v battery was replaced less than 6 months ago. The headlights still work....I think that would only happen when the key was available normally and this might be related to the below description:
The car makes the warning sound when I open the driver door as if the fob is still in the ignition (it's the warning that the keys are about to be locked in the car) so it seems to not realize the key has been removed.
The suddenness of the shut down makes me think that it's a blown fuse or, a horrible thought, that the immobilization feature is activated.
Title sums up the whole post. My Prius tends to use a bit of oil, I don't know the exact numbers just that it can't go without a couple top-offs between 10k oil changes. As much as I love this car it's because of that fact it will be sold after it's paid off as I've never seen a car that uses oil and yet drips none onto the ground.
Anyways it's because of its oil consumption and me not being used to having a car that needs its hood opened between oil changes that I've worried and wondered if I forgot to check it and it gets low enough to make the oil pressure drop will the hybrid system turn the engine off assuming I'm going slow enough for it to do so? I understand if I'm going over ~40mph the engine has to be spinning to prevent MG1 from over-revving.
So lets say I'm doing 65 on the interstate and the triangle lights up then I slow down and come to a stop will it prevent the engine from turning back on, or I'm sitting at a light and the engine is running because the heater is on then the oil pressure drops will it prioritize protecting the engine over the heater? Or is it like a typical car it will warn me but it's up to me to stop the car and turn the engine off as fast as I can to lessen the damage that is being done?
I bought a 2008 Prius with 1800 miles, no carfax trouble history On the way home from purchasing the car,as is, 180 mile trip, the red triangle, check engine, VSC and other symbol came on and the cruise control shut off Took it to a Toyota dealer the next day and the scan showed no codes. They could not explain it but said not to worry. Now that its warm weather, when this happens, the AC shuts off also I am at a loss for what to do, obvioulsy something is wrong. BTW, I replaced the 12 V battery and notice that the duct fromthe hybid battery was missing. Could this contribute to the problem?
View 8 RepliesGen II? My 2004 will occasionally beep from the dash after shut down (until I close the door). If I ignore the beep, close the door and walk away, the next morning it will need a jump start!
My dealer said it was because I was shutting down before putting it in Park. I always thought Park was unnecessary. Anyway, I got in to the habit of putting it in Park every time before shutdown, and still sometimes I get the dash beeping when I open the door.
How can you tell if the EBH is working? I thing there is a little bit more heat coming from the vents, but its hard to tell. I am thinking of putting the car on ramps and touching the block next to where the EBH is. The gas engine doesn't seem to be shutting off any faster.
View 18 RepliesBought a used 06, 5,000 miles ago. I bought it at a Toyota dealer and before I bought it I noticed the check engine light on, so I made them run the codes. The tech said that it showed the hybrid battery needs replaced. They had advertised it as batteries replaced. So, they replaced the battery that they said was under warranty and all was cool. I love it, but the other day the lights come on and the hybrid light comes on and it won't shut down.
I get it home and run the code reader and get a P3016. Then I erased everything, as soon as I erased it, the battery fan shuts down, I fire it up and everything is perfect, all systems go. take it out the next day and put 200 miles on it before it repeats. I erased the codes this morning and all is fine again.
What I read on the P3016 code is that it is either a bad cell, or a shorted cell in the hybrid battery, but it seems to me that if the cell was bad it should throw the code as soon as you fire it back up? Is it possible that it is a computer malfunction and not the battery at all. I'm leaving my code reader in the car for now so I can reset it the next time it happens.