Prius (2004-09) :: Getting P0505 Code - Idling Roughly
Jul 1, 2016
I have a 2004 Prius with 196k on it. Over the past 3 months, I have had the P0505 CEL come on about 3 times. After looking over everything and not noticing it running differently, I have cleared the code and kept going. The CEL stays off for a 3-4 weeks, then comes back on.
Yesterday, the light came on and was accompanied by a rougher idle. I checked the code and the only one shown is P0505 reads as Idle Air Control System. I removed the airbox and cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF spray and cleaned the throttle body valve with throttle body cleaner spray. They were both dirty, but didn't seem too bad.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
I recently borrowed an engine code scanner after my check engine light went on and got a P0505 code on my 2004 Prius with 185,000 miles and started to fix things. I replaced the PCV and spark plugs as well as the air filter. It ran fine, but decided to also clean the MAF using CRC MAF cleaner and also clean the throttle body and butterfly using CRC Throttle Body cleaner. I also carefully washed out the engine compartment using Gunk Foamy.
I seem to have put it all back together, but now the ICE won't shut down, even when warm, and actually wants to rev beyond what seems to be needed. I got another scanner and got some stuff that I honestly don't understand. It said 2 codes then gave me P0505 followed by:
Mil On
Monitor 0 inc
6 ready
misfire
fuel
comp
catalyst
evap
O2 sensor
View 1 Replies
I was driving home the other day and my CEL came on... I checked the gas cap and waited a few days to see if it cleared. When it didn't clear I had the codes read and it came back with 3 instances of P0505.
View 2 Replies
I had our '04, 149,000 miles in for PA state inspection and emissions test as well as to be looked at because of a P0505 diagnostic code. The symptom of the diagnostic code was that the ICE would not shut at all. The past few months I simply cleared the code (ScanGauge) and things were immediately back to normal until the check engine light came on again.
Anyway, in response to the P0505 today they replaced the air filter (I checked, it is installed correctly), checked for vacuum leaks (all okay) and cleaned the throttle body. My wife picked up the car this afternoon from the repair shop (independent, but mechanic trained by Toyota for Prius). Upon arriving home she said I needed to drive it because it is acting very strange. We drove it this evening and indeed it is acting strange. A number of times the engine revved up to 2800-3000 rpm when my foot was off the gas, e.g. slowing to go around a corner or even when sitting at a traffic light. The SOC was normal (blue bars), not high or low. It was also interesting, because even though the transmission was in D, the car was not pulling to go forward, e.g. at the traffic light-- in D, engine revving, but car just sitting there as though it was idling or ICE off.
The ICE would shut down and go to battery mode appropriately. However I noticed that the mpg would not go about about 110 when backing off the gas going down a long hill at around 50 mph (engine warm, battery normal charge). Normally this would bump it up to around 200.
This latter symptom of mpg not going about 110 is a bit subjective and we only drove around 20 miles this evening, but I know we did not experience the engine revving before the car being serviced today.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2005 Prius with almost 244,000 mile and about a week and a half ago the check engine light came on. I went to an Advanced Auto and had them read the code for me, which came back with a P0505 error code. I have read several things on web that this code is a Idle Air Controller related.
I also have read that this could be to a loose or bad PCV valve, an air leak in the vacuum lines, throttle motor shaft might be binding, or a failed engine ECM.
The car runs and idle just fine, no stalling or a rough idling. The only problem that is obvious is that when the car is warm and I come to a stop or put in park, the motor will not shut off.
Which one of these would cause this to happen? Or could this be due to a MAF sensor that needs cleaned or replaced?
View 3 Replies
My check engine light has come on twice now and I'm getting a p0505 code, idle air control malfunction. It seems as though there could be a couple causes for this. All my hoses seem tight, so the cheap fix seems out of the question. What could the other causes be, and more importantly, about how much for a shop to fix it. I have a 2006 with 155,000 miles on it.
View 7 Replies
I came out to my car to go to work and it sounds like a Mack truck idling roughly. I'm trying to get a hold of my mechanic to confirm the problem before calling the police and AAA and my insurance. He hasn't called back, so I'm dead in the water sitting in my car.
View 19 Replies
The engine light went on and I took it to my mechanics who is good on everything except Hybrid system.
Immediate after the lights on, I filled gas and the mpg dropped to 31, soon back to 37 on a hot day 85 degree. At red light, I feel the engine still running, not very smoothly. But the next day, it back to normal, mpg also back to 48 something.
My friend has a 2005 with 140K also got the same code. His mpg dropped to 40 and feel that engine power is lower now.
I would like to know if this is a common problem, what's the most probable cause, and if there are many possibilities, what's the best way to approach.
Here is problem area by OBD-II:
Engine and ECT
Hybrid Control
ABS/VSC/TRC
Air Conditioner
Immobiliser
View 16 Replies
I made three ten mile trips this evening. On the first trip the "engine" light came on. This is the first time I have seen this light (2004 @ 134,000 miles). ScanGauge reports diagnostic code P0505. The "engine" light remained on through all three trips. Also, I was not able to get the ICE to shut down and run only on battery at all, even though the battery was on the upper level of charge and the engine was warm. There were long stretches where I normally run on battery at around 35 mph. I'm supposing there is a connection.
View 19 Replies
I just bought my first Prius, a used 2009. So far I like it very much. I just have one concern: The engine seems to run roughly, especially when it's idling and when it goes up to about 45mph. I'm not sure if this is normal for a hybrid and I'm just not used to it or if it indicates a problem. The problem persists even after it's warmed up.
View 17 Replies
My 2004 Rubicon has been having some idling issues. It idles kind of rough (+- 200 RPM) and is hard to start. I tried to start it recently and after 4 cranks, it started then the CEL came on, and has been on ever since. I have recently moved from Washington state to Houston Texas, and the problem starterd here in Texas. I checked the code and am getting a P0505 code. I had a mechanic replace the IAC valve, Checked for vacuum leaks, and cleaned the throttle body. The mechanic says the output from the main computer appears to have burned out, and needs to replace the main computer(for $1000). The mechanic can clear the CEL, but after turning the jeep off then back on it reappears. The mechanic says he verified the computer was the problem by installing a known good computer and it cleared the problem. Does this sound right to you? If my computer is bad, wouldn't my whole operation be affected?
View 4 Replies
Few weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
View 19 Replies
Trouble Code 0505: Vehicle speed idle speed control auxiliary inputs
What would be the auxiliary inputs?
View 1 Replies
I posted earlier about my car idling roughly, the dealership is now saying it may be my engine or transmission mounts. I have a 2002 Passat wagon with 41500 miles.
View 2 Replies
I recently had $1600+ of work done on my 2005 Mazda 3 (L4 2.0L). R&R Head Gasket and Thermostat and Coolant Temperature sensor replaced. Since then it's been idling roughly. This was NOT occurring prior to the work. Mechanic says it needs a couple of weeks to "sync"? Does this makes sense? I'm wondering if they did something wrong to cause the problem.
View 9 Replies
I recently pulled the head gaskets on my '98 RAM 1500's 360 Magnum and after two weeks of waiting on the machine shop I've put everything back in and to torque specs. After a battle with the starter ending in pulling all the shims I painstakingly marked I got it to fire up. But, it is now idling roughly. I burped the coolant system, checked the oil level and removed some as it was slightly overfilled.
I also had an exhaust leak so I checked torque specs on the exhaust manifold. All of this worked marginally but when I felt comfortable moving the vehicle I found that in gear with the throttle open it would sputter, idling it moves along just fine. The engine is pulling air weakly through the filter and I noticed it is blowing a little white smoke when given gas. My OBD2 reader doesn't pull up any codes, I'm at my wits end.
View 6 Replies
I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
View 8 Replies
I have 2006 Subaru Forester that is idling roughly. 90k – oil change every 3k miles. Per diagnostic codes I learned that the 2nd cylinder was misfiring. I replaced the coil, spark plugs, ignition wires, and an airflow sensor. Yet, my car still idles rough. The check engine light is solid and the cruise control is flashing. The idling problem only happens when stopped… after I get high rpms there is no shaking. I had someone disconnect the battery and reset the computer and the lights stayed off for about a week and idling was fine. Week later – the problem returned. I think this an electrical problem, but not sure if mechanical.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 86k miles. Sometimes, like once every 2-3 days, when I start the car, nothing appears in the box that says "P, R, N, D". The transmission also acts very strange. I often don't notice the blank box when I start the car, but immediately notice it when I put it in reverse or drive. There is an awful "clunk" from the transmission, and the car drives like I'm driving it through 6 inches of mud. I stop, put it in park, restart the car, the problem is gone.
The dealer said if it is a problem with the shift lever, that is not covered under the drivetrain warranty. I really don't have the money for the dealer to do expensive diagnostics/repair.
View 5 Replies
We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
View 5 Replies
In the Car Talk column on 1/3/2016, it sounds like Lynnette's 1991 Honda Civic wagon was experiencing very similar symptoms to my wife's 2001 Honda Odyssey (189,000 mi) a few months ago. Rough idle, engine almost dies sometimes at stops, groans during acceleration. Additionally, accelerating between 40-60 mph our Honda would feel like it was "loading up," running rich or in the wrong gear climbing hills. I replaced the idle air control valve, which fixed the rough idle but not the other symptoms. Turned out I needed to reset (power cycle) the ECM and go through a curb idle/rev warm-up procedure so it would relearn the throttle position sensor's operating range after replacing the IAC valve. I disconnected the battery, removed and reinserted the hazard fuse, then reconnected the battery. Then from a cold start held the throttle at 3000 rpm until the engine warmed up to normal or the electric fans kicked on. Since then it's back to smooth, strong acceleration we expect from the Honda we love.
View 1 Replies
