I have found myself in a spot of bother with my 2007 Prius... I am getting am Immediate P3190 error, & engine only runs (OR cranks) for 10 secs before stalling with the error...
View 19 RepliesMy girlfriend has a 2004 Prius with the nav kit and has been having some rather odd issues as of late, of which seemed to have started after she hit an animal. The gas engine in her car seems to be turning on right away when she turns the car on. The engine also sounds quite loud, almost as if it is revving. Her gas mileage has also dropped considerably, from 45-ish down to around 33 mpg. Also, upon stopping, the mileage gauge on her nav screen doesn't immediately go to 99. Instead it sits around in the 40s for a while before jumping up to 99.
Now, she mentioned this to the tech at the dealer when she finally went to get the recall done on her water pump, but the guy said it drove fine and threw no codes. She then took it to another shop who said it threw a P3190 code, but he had never seen this issue and wouldn't know how to fix it.
The only thing I could find while searching around (mainly on this forum) was that it could be a problem with the electric throttle body. The throttle body seems to make sense to me, but she isn't totally convinced. She also has a 200+ mile trip coming up for the holiday season and it would be nice to fix the issue before that.
My sister was driving her 01 Prius and the engine shut off and all the dash lights came on. I was worried it was the hybrid battery since it is still original. I started the car and it started fine, drove home without any issues. Went to the store, everything seems normal. Read the codes and found P0121 and P3190, I just have a basic reader so I don't have any sub-codes or anything like that.
View 8 RepliesSomething in my Gen II 2006 Prius is causing a type of overheating condition in the hybrid system. The fault/error codes coming up are P3190 and P3191. If I turn the car off for 30 minutes and restart it, it runs fine for a period of time (but usually not more than a week).
I first noticed the problem a couple of months ago during my 45 mile (mostly highway) commute. While driving on the highway, I noticed that the Prius wouldn't accelerate when I stepped on the gas pedal. A couple of minutes later, my dash warning lights come on and the car started slowing down (no response to the gas pedal at this point). For a minute or so, I was able to change gears (reverse or drive) and move a little in either direction but the transmission stops responding altogether very quickly.
Dash lights that light up
Hybrid system error symbol lit up and I noticed that the hybrid battery charge level was at one purple bar.
The first time it happened, I had my car towed to the nearest Toyota dealership. The flatbed tow truck driver (to my surprise) was able to start the Prius and back it into a spot at the dealership. Some of the dash lights were no longer lit.
The dealer couldn't find anything wrong with the car except for the fact that my water pump was leaking. They replaced the water pump, cleared the error codes and drove the car around for about 45 minutes but couldn't reproduce the problem. I drove my car home.
note: this dealership replaced my hybrid battery and 'computer' (I'm sure it has a specific part name - I don't have the info) right before my warranty ran out over a year ago. I didn't have any warning lights lit up on the dash at the time but I told the master mechanic working on my car that it didn't have much power going to the wheels when I put it in reverse (I couldn't back into my driveway). After the hybrid battery and computer were replaced, I had no issues with backing into my driveway.
The same issue happened a week later. I turned the car off for 20-30 minutes, started the car and noticed that the bulk of the dash warning lights turned off so I drove it home. I took it to my local mechanic the following day. He cleaned the intake manifold, changed the spark plugs, cleared the P3190 and P3191 codes indicating that they were generic codes indicating a misfire and said that it was now running fine.
A week later the same thing happened. I did some research and brought the car back to my local mechanic and asked him to change the transmission fluid & to use the Toyota ATF WS fluid. He changed the transmission fluid (and noted that it was dirty), cleared the codes and I brought the car home. I unfortunately didn't get a sample.
We had a power failure that night so I plugged my pond aerator into the cigarette lighter to keep my koi alive and less than 2 hours later I came out to find the pondmaster ap-20 (20 watt) air pump (blows bubbles through 1/2" tubing) wasn't running and my car had shut off with the dash warning lights illuminated. I have run this little aerator for 4 days on a single tank of gas without issues in the past.
I'm trying to be detailed as possible.
View 12 RepliesThe red triangle light and the car with the ! Light went off and these are the codes the local shop has found:
- P0121
- P3190
- P3191
- C1259
- C1213
- P3101
The shop I went to in Little Rock would not touch it. Need to put these together and diagnose where to start?
I have recently picked up this 2002 Ram 1500 quad cab and had the engine rebuilt because it was running rough. 2 weeks later After I'm driving for a bit, the engine starts shaking and feels like it losses compression and dies. It will not start for about 30 minutes and then it starts back up and I can drive for a few miles and it dies again. the longer it sits, the further I can drive. The head shop checked their work on the engine and could find nothing wrong with block or heads. they said the O2 sensors were clogged and replaced those for me. they also looked at the fuel filter and didn't see anything wrong with it.
I needed to know what direction to go from here.. Catalytic converter? Battery? Fuel Pump? I took the truck to the Service Dept at a Dodge Dealership... They checked it out and replaced the after-market O2 sensors with Factory O2 sensors and said it was running fine... As soon as We picked it up, it shut off again not 5 miles from the shop.. The service advisor tells me that his techs are scratching their heads on what could be the cause of this problem. I'm feeling that the problem lies in the fuel system somewhere, but not feeling confident in the dealer service to find my problem...
My 2004 Ford Focus Hatchback has 152,000 miles on it. At the end of last year the engine started dying/stalling as soon as I started it - I would have to keep my foot on the gas to keep the engine going. I took it to the dealer and they put in a WHOLE NEW THROTTLE BODY. They also told me I needed a new battery and updated the car's software. Total $700. About a week to 10 days later, the car started doing the dying out after starting thing again - intermittently - didn't matter if the engine was hot or cold, fuel high or low, weather rainy, cold or clear and warm.
This morning I worked for 20 minutes to keep the engine going, made sure the engine was warm, and it STILL stalled out. I called in for a tow, called the dealer and said I'd be coming in, went back out to the car ... and it started right up without stalling. Drove it to the dealer and they've now told me they can't find anything at all wrong with the car. They are keeping it overnight to see if they can duplicate the stalling tomorrow morning. Any thoughts? The new throttle body cost me about $500 in December. (Don't know if it matters, but the defroster fan was super loud this morning, but once the engine was able to idle, the loudness disappeared ...). It's been a great car, but maybe it's time to start looking.
Got a problem that has left me in circles. 85 BMW 325e, manual. Won't start. Previously had some driveability problems, sporadic brief stalling. Using the key in ignition switch, starter spins the engine with no hint of a start.
1. IGN components all test to spec and during start attempt there is spark on all cylinders.
2. Fuel flow and pressure is within spec, both when FP relay is jumped and during start attempt.
3. Speed and reference sensors test good.
4. All inputs to dme have been tested, including power and grounds, and are good.
Last week I started having problems with my 05 Accent, hatchback, 1.6L engine, automatic transmission. Filled the tank up with gas and the car stalled pulling out of the station and wouldn't start unless I pumped the gas while cranking the engine. Ran and started fine after that and I thought it may have just been an air bubble in the fuel line, since there wasn't a check engine light or any other symptoms after that. Fast forward to this morning and the check engine light comes on during my commute and when I checked it, it gave an EVAP code (P0441). I also stopped to refill the gas and it stalled again as I was leaving the station. Also after I measured the gas mileage I found that I'd lost around 7 mpg (from around 30 to around 23).
I've never heard of EVAP problems causing stalling and loss of gas mileage but I'm not all that familiar with these systems so I don't really know. I'm going to test if it's the gas cap going bad since on the list of things that could cause a P0441 that seems to be the easiest place to start, but other than that where to start looking?
I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
View 1 RepliesHere's the problem: just bought my o4 FX4 5.4 liter. When I test drove it, I heard the ticking noise but knew it was sometimes normal for these trucks so i paid it no attention. like others iv heard from, as soon as they changed oil the ticking noise got louder but in the last week it has randomly stalled twice at very low speeds trying to find a parking spot. the engine pretty much sounds like a deisel now and I am wondering if the ticking noise and the stalling is related.
View 3 RepliesMy beloved Gen II, with 160,000 miles, this week started stalling (drive systems shutting down) when I press the accelerator to pass or to regain speed after slowing to enter an intersecting roadway. The dreaded red triangle and the check engine light come on. After pulling to the side of the road and fully shutting down, the system will restart, although the warning lights stay lit. (They both go out after a time.) Am out of town for a few weeks and hope to gain some insight that will allow me to wait until I can get the car back to a trusted service department. Suspect fuel filter, but replacement seems to require removal of gas tank.
View 5 RepliesI have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
View 2 RepliesFriday morning i got in my car to go to work, noticed that the gas engine never turn on but thought maybe the hybrid battery level was high. Drove about 300ft and noticed the gas engine never turned on and now the hybrid battery level was very low, immediately i turned around to go back home but before i made it the car shut off.
Current dash lights on are, Red triangle, vsc, abs, brake light, a yellow light with a circle and exclamation point, my gas gauge flash full to empty, (YES IM SURE I HAVE GAS IN TANK). Recently replaced 12v battery with yellow top optima battery. Also the check engine light IS NOT ON.
I went to leave work yesterday and my ICE would not come on. Several lights came on including the red triangle and the hybrid system warning light. The add fuel popped up on the display and then the fuel gauge goes from one pip to all ten pips flashing. I was not actually that low on fuel as lately the add fuel message has been popping up when I have about 4 gallons left. I wonder if the car just thinks I am out and so won't kick the engine on. There is no tension on the gas pedal.
A coworker had a diagnostic reader and did a reading. We got codes U0100, C1259, and C1310.
I replaced my 12V battery about two years ago and replaced my big battery 15 months/25,000 miles ago. I am at 133,000.
I did drive through some kind of high water a week ago. I didn't think it had an effect though, but possibly. I have been able to drive about 100 miles since then. However, I drove through the water, left the car at a friend's to go out of town, came back 5 days later. When I started my car after coming back, the engine kind of shook and made a strange noise. This lasted about 10 seconds. I drove home and it seemed fine for the next 100 miles.
All most 30 days after I bought my 2009 prius it started having problems with the doors unlocking and also starting. By putting the fog in the slot it would still start. Two months ago it wouldn’t start at all. I thought the battery was dead so I had it jump started. From that point on the car would work put the touch screen didn’t. A month ago the touch screen started working but then the car starting issues began again, all the dashboard lights coming on.
Two days ago I drove the car, turned it off, and when I tried turning it on five minutes later it all the dash lights came on and it wouldn’t let me shift into drive. Last night the same thing happened only after inserting the fob into the slot the dash lights no longer came on, and now the check engine light will come up and that is it. The owner’s manual says: malfunction in the electronic hybrid system control system; in the electronic throttle control system; or the transmission control system. I know what these words mean, but I don't know why this would all of the sudden happen.
My car was driving good when i had an accident just the fender and door was hit, but i loved the car in the body shop for 1 1/2 years now i went to pick it up and the battery is low, the gas engine start and stall in 3 or 4 seconds . Can i tow the car with the wheels on the ground and been pressing the brakes a little to re charge the battery, 2007 prius 120000 miles.
View 7 RepliesI accidentally have the check machine red icon on my Car firstly I have departure the car without close the door after I turn off the car and turn on again it appear the check engine red icon and after that a few minute my Car can't start and have long beep sound and my car timing reset to wrong and seems mess up everything now what I can do just turn the car off and can't do anything with it.
View 19 RepliesI purchased a new 12 volt battery from Toyota and installed in my 2009 Prius. My car wouldn't start. So, next I tried to jumpstart it. I pressed the Power button (the light was GREEN) but it wouldn't start. I pressed the Power button again (The light was AMBER) and the hybrid drive engaged and the CHECK ENGINE light came on; however, the engine didn't start, the dashboard didn't light up and the READY indicator did not appear.
Next, I grabbed the Owner's Manual and went through the Troubleshooting sequence. Engine still wouldn't start.
2004 F250 Powerstroke Diesel 6.0L ... 90,xxx miles
Symptoms : Within the past 10,000 miles the truck has begun exhibiting the following problems, sometimes in conjunction with one another and sometimes just independently of one another:Stalling on the road at low speed / low engine RPM.
Throttle pedal becomes completely unresponsive. Stabbing the throttle pedal repeatedly sometimes causes it to return to operation. Sometimes the engine must be shut off and re-started to return throttle pedal to operation.
Rough, surging, stumbling idle at rest. Will crank but not fire occasionally. Problem has become worse as of late. Repeated attempts at starting the engine usually result in success after much, much retrying.
Work Done : Local Ford Diesel technician replaced the EBP sensor, replaced the EGR valve and re-flashed computer with latest software -- all under warranty. Problems still persist.
Peculiarities : We have tried driving the truck with the EGR valve disconnected and with it connected, both at the technician's request.
With the EGR valve disconnected the truck usually starts fine but still stalls out at low RPM / low speed. Fuel economy is also cut by nearly 50% with the EGR valve disconnected. Really couldn't afford to keep driving the truck like this.
Technician speculated that if the truck continued to die with the EGR valve unplugged, it meant that the computer or fuel pump might be bad. ????
It also seems that the stalling problem manifests after the truck has been driven at highway speeds (65-70mph) for at least a period of 20-30 minutes. Stalling usually happens as soon as we make an exit off of the highway and begin to slow down to make exit. As in foot off the throttle pedal. Engine RPM drops then stumbles then stalls.
I wonder if this is a problem with the HPOP or ICP system.
Specifically I wonder if this is a cracked quick release fitting that allows oil pressure to fall after the engine heats up and oil viscosity thins out with the heat. Once the engine cools down sufficiently to thicken the oil, the HPOP finally gets enough oil pressure to allow the engine to fire up again.