Prius (2004-09) :: Gas Pedal Too Hard For Acceleration After Spark Plug Change
Jul 4, 2016
I have a 2007 Prius with ~180000, which runs great. The mechanic shop I used for oil change suggest me to change spark plug because they are dirty. After the change, I found I cannot step on the gas pedal too hard for acceleration. The car will hesitate, choking or die if I try to accelerate too fast. But if I step on the gas pedal gently, and let it reach the desired speed in a slower way, it has no issue. I went back to the shop and they replaced with another set of 4 plugs, and no improvement. I checked air intake tube and it looks no leak, but really old. Other than that, the car runs great.
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Experienced lower mileage after changing the plugs at about 120k miles?
In the 10 months (23.6k miles) since I had the dealer change the plugs, I have averaged 43.3 mpg overall.
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I want to change spark plug, took connector of spark unit and took bolt M6 out, lifted spark unit but not enough clearance to remove the unit in order to use wrench for unscrewing spark plug. How it works?
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I have a Ford Taurus 2004 and would like to change its Spark Plug. I am looking for instructions for doing so as 3 of the spark plugs at the back of the engine are under the manifold air-intake. I am looking for step by step instructions of how to reach to the spark plugs to the back.
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I have a 2006 Fx4 with 60,000 miles. I wanted to change the spark plugs myself yet I can't seem to find were they are in the engine, I know how to take them out but I don't know how to get to them.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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I've recently had a small issue with my truck missing under hard load. If you're going around 40 MPH and push it down like merging it will kick back and forth and sputter and then start hitting fine again after a few seconds and move on. Possibly bad sparkplugs and/or wires?
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My wife called me from the dealer and they said they wanted to change the spark plugs at 40,000 mi.??? Is this really necessary?
My M5 recommended interval was 50,000 Miles Seems really low to me Regardless of what the manual says any either way?
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One of my pet peeves about the Prius Plug-in is that the car won't stay in full electric mode under hard acceleration. Any mods to keep the car in pure electric propulsion?
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i have a 98 buick century has around 180000 miles and it ran perfect, then two days ago i changed my spark plugs b/c they were 2+years old i got NGK Vpower and gapped them to .06. i had to roll the engine forward when i got to the back 3 plugs. so anyways after all pugs were changed i took it for a drive it was running fine, then i noticed when i got on the highway when i had to accelerate it missed a few times then on down the road it would go fine until i had to give it a little gas.
It jerks a little bit and it sounds like shit. But it idles alright and light acceleration thru town is fine. i also had it tested at autozone and i got a bunch of stuff about vacuum something and 02 sensor but nothing about misfire or coil pack malfunctioning. all the vacuum tubes on the engine are all sealed that i can see. and like i said it ran perfect before hand so i know its nothing internal. i just cant figure what happened.
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my wife drives a 2008 toyota camry 4cyl. she has about 86000 miles so i figured i would do a little tune up. change plugs, filters, injector clean, etc. while changing the plugs i seem to have broken 3 of the 4 pressure tabs on the plugs that plug into the coil. for the time being i have the pressure tap electrical taped very tightly onto the plug. What I should do? or is that common to for those to break off. I didn't even really use a lot of pressure either.
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I somehow managed to kill my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 while doing the dreaded spark plug change and looking for pinpointing and rectifying the problem.
A quick rundown of the car... My mom bought her new in late 03, decided to get a BMW X3 a couple of years ago. I bought her with 65k miles. I just recently had the timing belt replaced by a reputable shop at 79k (yes I know I let it go too long.) I just hit 80k and decided it was also time to do the plugs as I had noticed a decrease in performance and gas mileage of late. Other than the recent dip in performance the car has been extremely reliable and has had no previous issues.
I researched as much as I could knowing that the 3.5 isn't the easiest engine to work on. I bought the recommended Champion plugs that came in the car from the factory as well as the oem Hyundai wires. I also replaced the plenum gasket.
I took my time replacing everything but despite my best efforts, I accidentally cracked the plastic on the radiator reaching over to the back bolts on the plenum. Other than that mishap, the only other issues was the #5 plug sticking which finally came loose after some begging and pleading to the car Gods. Unfortunately, my begging and pleading was enough for them to allow the car to start.
After reading a thread on here, I believe the problem is that I removed the TPS sensor to get to the bolts on the EGR valve, I know now that this was a big mistake. I checked and double checked every connector and can not find one that was missed or disconnected. The car would try to start but would not crank over. I was unable to get any OBD2 codes from my code scanner.
I decided to try a TB from a junkyard and swap it on to see if that was the issue. After swapping it on, the car started and ran like crap for about 15 seconds and stalled out. I was however able to pull some codes in this short time.
The codes I received are:
P0102: Mass Airflow Circuit Low Input.
P110 & P1172: ETS Improper Motor Current.
P1192: ETS Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction.
P2127: Throttle Pedal Position Sensor "E" Circuit. Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Voltage Too Low.
I'm not sure if these codes are left over from before I swapped out the TB or not. I reset the codes after I wrote them down and researched them to see if they reappeared but the car will not start again so I can't get the codes to reappear.
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Just replaced spark plugs in my 2007 Sonata V6 and noticed that my MPG has dropped from about 24 to 19! I used NGK Iridium plugs, and also changed the PCV valve at the same time. Mileage is 136,000. Could the internal computer (that does the MPG calculation) have gotten messed up by all of the disconnecting/unplugging that I had to do to get the surge tank off? (BTW - the engine runs great - just the MPG went way down).
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Continuing from this thread which I accidentally posted in the "main" forum.
I had trouble unscrewing the spark plug even though the advertised torque is only 13 ft-lb and the car is only 13K miles 1.5 year old.
I googled "spark plug stuck" and read some posts on line.
Lots of horror stories of broken spark plugs and stripped threads - big $ to repair.
[URL]
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How long should I let my engine cool down before changing the spark plugs? I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl 2.4l. My drive home from work is about 10 miles and I would like to change my plugs after work but I am not sure how long I should wait before working on the vehicle.
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I have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).
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So for reason irrelevant, at about 500 miles on the odometer, I drove the Prius quite hard the past couple of days. In retrospect, a poor decision as I am now all kinds of concerned as to what kind of damage I may have done. I know break-in is said to be 600 miles so I was below that. I'll describe my 'hard' driving as heavy acceleration, often pedal to the floor, a few hard stops and umm excessive speed (we'll leave that up to interpretation). So I'm just stressing about it now.
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I have a small problem, the dealer that serviced my car just told me that my water pump was leaking and I was low on coolant. I can't remember when was the last time I checked the coolant level but when the dealer top off the coolant, he nearly used the entire bottle. Needless to say, I believe the radiator was pretty low on coolant.
Now I've never noticed a high temperature warning lamp or ever broken down. Today at 125,000 miles, I went to change my spark plugs. The 1st plug to the far left as you are facing the car has oil in the spark plug. This is freaking me out, could my engine be damaged from the low coolant?
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Had a lift done (Rough Country, after reading through these forums) on my 04 F150 Newer Body Style 4x4. Now, sometimes the pedal gets harder to push on until it won't go down at all and the brakes (only the front) start dragging. It goes away after awhile (my rotors are shot and I'm going to have to replace them after I figure out what is going on) but always comes back. The brake lines have been bled and I'm having a shop bleed them again tomorrow (that's what they said the issue was) just in case.
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I have a 2008 Prius. Had to do an 'emergency' stop. Put my foot on the brake pedal REAL hard and the car slowed way down, but not down enough. Munched the front end. Now remembering back, I didn't feel any 'chattering' from the ABS brakes. It seems like I got regen braking but never switched to the hydraulic brakes. Is that possible? Did I experience a braking failure? Or do Prius just take a lot longer to stop? I did a test stop in the rental car I have now (not a Prius or hybrid), and it gives me the ABS chatter as I would expect, with a short stopping distance.
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Today I began to change the plugs on my '04 Camry 4cyl for the first time at a little over 100 thousand miles. The first plug I came to doesn't want to come loose. I started with a 8" ratchet, now I'm on it with a 12 " ratchet and it doesn't budge. I'm able to go up to 3' and almost anything in between with a breaker bar plus a cheater, but I've heard terrible tales of people who break off a plug. How much force can you safely put on a plug? how do shops remove stuck plugs?
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