My car was driving good when i had an accident just the fender and door was hit, but i loved the car in the body shop for 1 1/2 years now i went to pick it up and the battery is low, the gas engine start and stall in 3 or 4 seconds . Can i tow the car with the wheels on the ground and been pressing the brakes a little to re charge the battery, 2007 prius 120000 miles.
View 7 RepliesThe car will start and run for about 10 seconds and stall. The engine has been completely rebuilt 20k miles ago. The timing is perfect and the car makes 190psi on every cylinder
I should point out that it is NOT the immobilizer. it has been checked over and over and verified to not be the immobilizer. Here is everything that has been done.
- New fuel pump
- fuel filter
- fuel pump relay
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel injectors
- fuel pressure has been verified
- spark plugs
- ignition coils
- crankshaft position sensor
- cam position sensor
- MAF sensor
- throttle body
- CU has been tried in another Jetta. worked fine
- gauge cluster worked fine in other Jetta as well.
- brand new battery
- alternator checked and passed
- grounds checked, all fine
The car has been scanned with VCDS. Here are the results:
6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00955 - Key 1
09-10 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module; Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module; Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module; Rear Right (J389)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
Here is a video of what the car is doing.
I am able to rev the engine but it dies quickly afterwards. vacuum pressure looks completely fine on the boost gauge.
My roommate has a 1.8t jetta as well so I have access to his car for trying things with.
I have a 2001 Ford F150 Lariat. It has the 5.4L Triton motor. I was having starting problems as such the truck would crank and not start or crank, start and barely idle and stall within 5 seconds. It was NOT tripping any lights. I was told it was a possible fuel issue. I have since changed the fuel pump, fuel filter, as well as the hoses in the rear connected to the tank. Truck started, ran great, even seemed to have more power. Ran great for about a week. I was on my way out yesterday about 2 miles from home when the truck just stalled out on me. It is now having the same issues it was having before I changed the pump, filter, etc. What the issue may be? Clogged line? Fuel injector? If it is an injector how can I tell which one?
View 8 RepliesMy 2001 6.8 L V10 runs great all day & night without issue, but first thing in the morning when below freezing it has a hiccup. It'll fire right up and stutter and stall within less than 2 seconds. Usually twice. Third time it fires and keep running. Is there a fuel check valve somewhere on this thing? Not sure what that would have to do with the temps. Wondering if it's/there's an easy fix or not?
View 5 RepliesMy 2004 Prius is due in the shop Tues for a hybrid battery replacement. Codes indicate only one cell bad BUT...It is obviously having some problem running. We were very low on gas yesterday but wife filled it before she came home.
She parked it in garage. The Hy Batt indicated all green bars. She may not have pressed the Park button before Power - I do that a lot too.
This AM I changed the spark plugs before I tried to start it. I then started it (ICE & started-sounded OK) and backed it DOWN the driveway into the street and started down the street. The ICE stopped.
The batt indicated one blue bar so the batt would not propel it. After trying a couple times to make it run, I disconnected the 12v grd and let it sit for an hour. Then I reconnected the batt and the ICE again started showing hybrid at 4 blue bars and stopped after a few seconds. Tried it once or twice more, same thing.
Sometimes I have to park my car two blocks away in the afternoon, and later in the evening i need to park my car back to the spots in front of my apartment.
EV mode won't be enough to last the two blocks, even at 7 bars. Or sometimes the car won't let me turn on EV mode, even at 7 bars (battery too cold).
So the engine must run if i want to park my car back near my apartment. But the two block distance will not suffice to completely warm up the engine
So the next morning... (20~ Fahrenheit)
My car knocks for a few seconds the next morning the car starts up...
What is the definition of completing the warm up cycle? 120F? My car will turn off the engine after coolant temp reaches 120F (ECO mode).
About a month ago my 2009 Prius - 35500 miles - started acting up intermittently. When I first start the car I am getting a red warning triangle for just a few seconds and I feel/hear a soft thump under my foot that is on the brake pedal, there is a few second pause - the warning light goes away and the car starts just fine. This does not usually recur until the car has shut off for a few hours or so. I have had the car to my Toyota dealer twice and they could not reproduce the warning light even after it had been sitting all nite. That was about a month ago - and the problem has been very intermittent. Then yesterday we had a pretty cool morning and when I started the car I got the red warning triangle and a Warning on my screen -- something to the effect that "There is a Park and Transmission Lock" - I turned the car off and started again almost immediately - no warning triangle - no warning message. It happened again once this morning.
View 3 RepliesEver since I've had the car, I've noticed after the gas engine kicks on, it runs a little rough for maybe 10-15 seconds. Only when it's sat for a while, hours or overnight. Replacing the plugs didn't work. Now, its not bad, not really a problem, but I'm wondering if the injectors might need cleaning.
View 19 RepliesWhen trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybred battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how do you tell if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem?
View 6 RepliesRecently, when I start the engine (cold or even warm starts) I hear a subtle knocking noise that doesn't last too long but a few seconds. I figured that maybe it's because our area may still be using winter mix gasoline... but I'm not sure. Also, there's a rattle underneath the car when the engine switches into generating electricity with MG1.
This only happens after a start-up procedure (cold or warm). It stops when I push the gas pedal down a little bit (while still in park) then it goes into charging again, and by that time, it's stopped. I figured it may be a heat shield on the exhaust. It sounds more up in the front.
Also, when I start the car, the engine starts smoothly but then 1-2 seconds later goes into spinning MG1 which makes the car kinda sound like "vrrrrrrr---VRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr...." .
When trying to drive my car out of the garage this weekend, it started backing up and then it stopped. It would also not do anything when I put it in drive. Next, the engine cut out. It would only stay on for a few seconds when starting it up again. It continued to do this. I had the car brought to my local mechanic who specializes in foreign cars. He called me today and said my car will not talk to the computer. He stated it must be the hybrid battery. He told me I need to take it to a Toyota dealer. My question is how to know if this battery is truly out and there is not another problem? I have a 2001 Prius.
View 3 RepliesI've been noticing on the 2006 I've purchased recently with 120k miles now, the MFD would show the ICE engine no longer is on and proving power when I cruise to a stop. However when I'm actually stopped, I noticed the ICE engine is still on, about 5 seconds after I make the complete stop, I then notice the ICE engine shut down. Although there are no DTCs on the car, this seems to baffle me on why it's happening. The mpg average on the car is lower than my other cars, it can be anywhere from low 40s to about 45mpg on the MFD. What could be causing this?
View 19 RepliesSo coming home from work the engine started misfiring and the Service engine light started blinking five times in staying on for five seconds and then blinking another five times in series. The car started writing very rough and stalled out every time I came to a stop which was not normal function for vehicle. Made it to the Toyota dealership. After paing the Service fee they told me it was possibly spark plugs, ignition coil pack, and an O2 sensor not functioning. I just changed the spark plugs and ignition packs three months ago. So I took the car home put new spark plugs in and a new ignition pack I ordered from Amazon and put it in cylinder for (which they told me at the Toyota dealership) and installed a new O2 sensor myself. Disconnected the battery to clear any trouble codes and restarted the engine. The problem still exists. The trouble code they gave me at the dealership was.p0304, p0138, p0110. The car is still miss firing and Service light keeps blinking.
View 1 Repliesi started my '04 prius (~110k miles) this morning, went back into the house to grab a few things, & then I started hearing a loud rattling sound from the engine for a few seconds before the engine died.
The dash and MFD lite up with these symbols in the attached images.
Having problems with start up? It feels like the engine wants to stall when I start it and as if the flywheel is so heavy. It also like jerks the car. You can clearly tell it isn't a smooth start up. Maybe the starter?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2015 Elantra GT. Car has been great up until the last month. I have been getting in car and starting it. It starts and immediately stalls. You turn key off and then try starting again and the engine turns over but does not start. I am pretty sure it is a security problem. If you arm car then unarm it will start again and is fine. the problem is completely sporadic. Just last week I came out of work, turned car on,, it stalled immediately tried to start again and engine just turned over. armed and dis armed security with no luck.
Called a tow Truck and he ended up disconnecting the negative cable from the battery for 5 seconds and then reconnecting. The car started right away and was fine for a few days and now has stalled a couple times since immediately after starting but now if you try again it starts. I had it at the dealership today to have it checked, there are no codes and they could not simulate the problem so for now I have to live with it. I use this car for work and count on it to start each time. I should also mention it has a remote car starter that was put in by a separate company but was done through the dealership when the car was first purchased.
I have a 06 Passat with a V6 with 80K on it. Recently I have been getting intermittent stalling at start up, only when the engine is warm(but once on a really hot day). The car will rev slightly and stall. After several attempts, it will start, and then it runs fine. VW service said no error codes and didn't offer much more.
View 10 RepliesI have a 96 buick skylark. I just recently had the parking pawl fixed because it was broken. Now when I slow down the engine idle seems to start looping and almost stall, it in fact has once. As I slow down, and I can feel the car somewhat trying to pull forward as if its not down shifting correctly. when I finally get stopped the idle will come back up and idle normally. the car upshifts great. I know that one of my rear wheel speed sensors has a broken wire.
View 3 RepliesI love my '86 Mustang GT convertible. Currently at 106,000 miles and running strong. The problem is searching at idle. I have replaced every sensor that me and my mechanic can think of. New plugs and wires along with rotor and distributor cap. The engine will start searching, i.e. idling up and down, and at time stall. If I apply slight pressure and idle up to 1,000 RPM the searching stops. Hard to do sometimes as this is a stick.
View 4 RepliesI have 2004 chrysler sebring and lately when I'm at a light/stop sign the rpm gauge fluctuates between 1000 and 500 and wants to stall. I've been told to change the spark plugs and wires, cleaned the throttle body, and put in a new air filter. What else I should do?
View 1 RepliesMy Prius has started stalling out. I had the codes read a couplt days ago..needs plugs or gas cap gaskets. I disconnected the ground cable to clear codes instead of going to dealer and being charged to clear check engine light. After doing this the car has stalled out twice. The first time I tried jumping it didn't work until I disconnected and reconnected the ground cable, it started after about 5 minutes of being hooked up to my other car.
Took it for a drive to charge it further after about 15 miles everything was working fine, the hybrid monitor was showing good charging. Then all of a sudden the triangle light comes on and all the other stuff, check engine etc. Takes a few more miles to stall out. I did the same thing with the battery as before leaving it disconnected for about 5 minutes. Reconnected and it starts up and ran fine to home. ?? Did trying to clear the codes the first time cause these problems???