Prius (2004-09) :: GPS Keeps Deleting Track Of Previous Destinations
Mar 22, 2015
Bought a used 2007 Gen II in 2009, and have since that time been very happy and had few issues. However, lately I have noticed some problems that are very disruptive, and am concerned they may be indicating a bigger issue ahead.
I rely very heavily on the GPS, using it every time I drive. In the past few months, I have noticed that sometimes when I start the car, all of my "Previous Destinations" have completely disappeared, and it says "no previous destinations"! Which is insane, because I have been accumulating previous destinations for 6 years now! It is hugely disruptive for me to find these gone, because I reuse many a few times but don't want to save all of them to "My Places." Strangely, My Places are still there, not deleted. The deleted destinations never come back, and I have to painstakingly enter all my addresses again, which is difficult for me because of a disability. In the past few months, this has happened 3 or 4 times! When this happens, the region is also always reselected to zone 9, which I am not in (not sure if that's where the first owner lived?), so I always have to enter everything in all over again.
A few years ago I had to replace the 12V battery, and I can understand why I lost all my memory in that instance. But the battery should be fine.
I have also noticed a few other strange occurrences in the past few months, which may or may not be related. There are times when suddenly the key fob does not work, and I cannot get into the car. The battery is new, so it's not that. I was worried it might indicate an electrical problem, because also a few times now I have gone to start the car and it goes into battery mode instead of turning over - as in, the indicators and lights come up, but the car doesn't start. Fortunately, when I turn it off and start again it has resolved. A few other times, I have started the car and the buttons seem to be crossed - pressing Destination leads to Audio, pressing Menu leads to Map, etc. Again, fortunately I restarted the car and all buttons worked normally again. Same thing, once I started the car and the screen did not turn on at all, just stayed black. Restarted, and it was back on.
So I am wondering what these sudden destination deletions might mean in this context. I am very far away from a dealership, and can't afford a major work-up if it's not necessary. A few possibilities I considered are that the destination cache might zero out when I have not used the car for an extended period. I don't drive every day, and there are some times when I don't use the car for 2 weeks or a little more. I also live in a location by the ocean, and so I have wondered if perhaps the salt air is corroding my electronics. I have tried to rinse the underside of the cab with fresh water every few weeks, but other than that I don't know what I could do to prevent salt damage.
Maybe what's going on with the NAV is totally unrelated to these things, and can be solved simply in another way. I have no clue really what's going on. But I don't want to have to deal with this again. And, if there is reason to think a serious electrical or other problem might be imminent, I would like to know that so I can take care of it before the car gets totaled, because I'd really like to keep my Prius for a long time if I could!
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In my generation 2 and 3 Prius, the Nav allowed me to program several destinations along the route of a trip. I can't figure out how to do the same thing with the Prius V. Does the new Nav in the V not have this capability?
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I know this issue has been posted and discussed multiple times on early Gen 3 Prius'. That said, I don't see much on it regarding the Prius v ( lowercase v for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase ). There is also of course a TSB for earlier Prius' that had the issue.
I can readily replicate the issue in that almost every time I 'think' it may happen the next time I start the vehicle, it does in fact do so.
If I move the vehicle from the garage to the driveway or around in the driveway to clear snow, the ICE fires for a few seconds then I shut it off as the car is where I need it. Upon the next ICE start, there is a horrible knocking under the hood somewhere. Different from the previous messages and the TSB itself is that I never get an error code or MIL.
I'm to the point where if I move the car, I let it warm up completely. I figure I'm better off wasting fuel than subjecting my Prius to whatever horrible thing is happening under the hood if I don't.
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I had my wallet and key stolen and my spare has somehow gone missing too. A dealership has quoted me half hour to program and an hour and half to reseed.
One of the things I was told is I need the reseed to cancel any previous fobs the car was programmed to. I don't care if the old fob is out there and could be used for my car. If this is the only reason for reseed I don't want it.
I am confused. Somewhere I think I read that if you don't have any keys then you'll need a reseed no matter what.
I had the black logo fob, not a proximity one.
Why a reseed needs to be done when you have no key to go off, or why you don't.
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On my UK Prius with Nav (uses HDD for Nav System, and includes a DVD / CD reader too), I put my music in MP3 format on a DVD-RW for convenience.
When I turn off the audio by hitting the audio power button, and then turn it back on later the music resumes from a previous point. How far it goes back seems to vary enormously from 10 seconds to 10 minutes (so doubt it goes back by X KBytes for example).
How this is determined, or if I can alter it in some way?
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I have 2000 miles on a 2014 Prius v. When I try to use either Apple shuffle or iPod I get a hiss noise on top of what ever track is playing. I have tried various cables to make the connection between the audio system and the apple products.
My dealer gave me a free hour but could not re create the noise and sent me away with a comment blaming my devices. The problem recurs but now the dealer says I must pay $100/ per hour for diagnosis. No reason to trust the dealer diagnosis technique. Toyota says I m free to try another dealer and says I must use genuine Apple cables as "specified by my dealer".
Apple does not make a coaxial connector cable for the purpose and relies on Belkin. My local authorized apple dealer does not sell the Belkin cable and favors a different cable instead. I am certain the cable is not the issue.
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I changed out my front springs awhile ago and recently pulled off the track bar and replaced the bushings with Energy suspension bushings.
Today I noticed that the Ex is sitting a bit low on the drivers side. I measured from the bottom of the fender to the ground, drivers side 40 inches, passenger side 40 1/2 inches.
It was really hard getting the track bar back in after the bushing change. Would an adjustable track bar fix this?
This is for a 2004 Excursion 4x4 with a 6.0. Bilstein shocks, approx 1 1/2 years old.
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I have the C2 with the standard CD player/radio/Bluetooth streaming, and I'm curious about the display of track information. When I plug my iPod in via USB, the radio screen is able to display track information, as expected.
I have a Samsung Galaxy S3 and have been able to stream from Spotify over bluetooth, but it will not display the track information. Is there a way to have the radio screen show text for the track currently playing in Spotify?
If not, are there any streaming Android apps that can display track information?
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Last week I got a hole in my lower heater coolant line and I did a quick fix and added G12 to get the car home but I got to thinking, the way I'm using this car now, I'm not so sure I need the heater.
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I was able to program my GX into the garage opener but it deletes my Camry. As soon as I program the Camry it deletes the GX. Strange. I was able to have both cars when I had the ML320.
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I'm trying to delete the EVAP system on my 24v to clean up the bay. I tested the purge valve and it comes up as 25ohms so i was wondering if I could remove it and wire in a resistor to the connector in order to trick the car into thinking that it was still there.
Next question is in the picture listed below, would i be able to cap off # 11 and where the lines go into the intake manifold or would i have to delete the hoses going to #10 and #13 as well?
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Every time I start the car the AC take about 15 sec to turn on, and the temperature setting reset to 75degree. Is there a way I can fix this small issue? Normally the AC turn on right away and my temperature stay at the setting I left it.
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Deleting the cats from the stock headers ? would there be any power gain or loss ?
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Can the struts and springs from the 2006-2008 Avalon with the TOURING suspension be put on the 2010-2012. Went to the local Toyota dealer. They had the struts for a 2007 Touring model. We compared them to some from a 2011 , and they looked physically the same.
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Is there a way to reset or delete all failure codes without a diagnostic tool? For example by disconnecting the batteries? Is it even a good idea?
It seems that my Phaeton has got some codes saved that prevent certain system to work properly, for example the RDKs.
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Need to confirm that the 2002+ console cup holders are deeper than the previous models? Are they direct swaps or do I need to cut stuff?
[URL]....
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Is normal for this navigation to automatically go back to previous screen while you are on "Radio" screen?
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The drivers windows when engaging the auto up will close then go back to it's previous position. I physically have to keep the button engaged for the window to close... Otherwise, it works...
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Im wanting to delete my abs brake system in my f150 2002 2wd all disc brakes.
I have to change the module with some kinda valve? and turn off the Abs in a tune?
I know the basics of a brake system, but im lost in the abs stuff.
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