Prius (2004-09) :: Fuel Gauge Never Moves Even When Out Of Gas
Feb 26, 2014
2008 Prius Touring. At 86,000 miles I got the red triangle of death and coasted off the interstate. Had the car towed to Toyota and they said there were no codes except it ran out of gas, even though the fuel gauge said it was 3/4 full. After running out of gas two more time I took it in and they unplugged the fuse and said it should be fine. (BTW there is no low fuel warning, just the red triangle and the every sound of wind whistling as you glide). By this point I fill up when I have traveled 300 to 350 miles, which is my fuel gauge work-around.
After running out of gas a couple more times I go back to Toyota, (we're past the 100K warranty now), they charge me $47 to rest the computer. I continue to run out of gas because the odometer has quit resetting when I refuel, so if I forget to manually rest the odometer or someone resets it by accident I mostly likely will run out of gas. Last trip in the Dealer told me I need a new gas tank for $733, I didn't do it because I felt like they are just guessing at what the issue is and don't really know. (these events involve the only two dealers in my city.)
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A few days ago my 98 Cutlass had to be towed because of a broken brake line. It was towed 35 miles to my mechanic. Two fuel lines needed to be replaces and i guess it was a real problem getting to stuff to fix. When I picked the car up tonight I noticed that the fuel gauge didn't work right. When the key is off the needle points straight down toward the floor. when I turn on the ignition, the needle moves up and pins itself against the little metal pin below the "E" and can't go any higher. The only cause I can think of is that the needle bounced over the pin while it was being towed and when I turn on the ignition it tries to move to where it is supposed to but is stopped by the pin. The only way I can think of to fix this is to turn the car upside down and rotate it counterclockwise until the needle moves back over the pin.
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I inadvertently pulled the fuse which controls the fuel gauge yesterday while looking for the fuse that controls the AC outlets. I put the fuse back but now the fuel gauge is stuck at 1 (blinks) and it will not go up - I know I have a full tank.
I called the dealer where I bought it and the guy said to leave the car off for an hour to let it reset, that did nothing. The dealer is an hour round trip for me and I'd rather not have to hike out there, what I can do to reset the gauge?
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I left the house and parked on a hill parking lot, drivers side lower than the passenger. When I left, I was driving around and noticed the gas gauge, which had been at half full, was now showing full. I thought if I shut off the car, that might reset everything. It didn't. Anything I can do to fix this? Top the tank and see if that won't fix it? Or take it in? It sounds like a stuck sensor.
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The last time I got gas the shut off switch on the gas hose did not shut off. I was standing there and I shut it off immediately. There was some overflow. I have gone 170 miles since this fill up and the fuel gauge has not budged from totally full. I bought the car new and normally it would be down about half a tank by now.
I disconnected the 12 v battery. After reconnecting it the fuel gauge still reads totally full. I know about the problems with the gen 2 fuel tank- bladder, fuel pump and other components inside the tank.
I wouldn't be excited about getting a new fuel tank with only 43k miles.
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I changed bad combination meter today and I noticed that everything works fine but the fuel gauge is blinking with all the bars! After a few miles the fuel gauge is still blinking but now with less than a half of deposit, I filled the entire deposit yesterday. Maybe is a consequence of changing the combination meter? Should I reset the fuel gauge or reconnect the 12v battery?
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I've got a 2006 Prius, it's done this a few times before but self-resolved, this time it stayed dead- cold morning pressed power- all the gear lights blinked on-off, the fuel gauge goes up and down and no ability to engage gears.
I jumped it and got it to look "normalish": in park, normal dashboard lights, etc but when I tried to engage the gear into drive it just wanted to go to neutral. i thought maybe it knows that it's still attached to the jumper so I unhooked all that and when I got back into the prius it was dead-dead again- no lights, nada. I was doing this by myself.
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I was involved in a collision and had my 2005 Prius (direct from Japan import) in a collision repair shop. The shop performed the necessary electronic checks and fixed the superficial damage to the Prius. After a time, the car was completed and I drove it off-the petrol gauge was at the half tank mark.
One week later, driving 80k (~50m) a day, my gas gauge is still at the half tank mark. I decided to fill up the tank. I paid for what seemed to be almost a full tank price...and the gas gauge increased by one increment only. It still hovers at one bar over the half mark.
Scouring the web, and this site, I found a fuel calibration protocol. Here it is .....
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2007 - I went out to start it and every light imaginable turned on. Fuel gauge and all gear indicators were lit and blinking. Headlights work. Is this a battery problem or something more major? It is the middle of winter where I live. It won't start up at all.
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Been driving for 3 days now for a total of about 100 miles from a full tank averaging 50 miles per gallon. I noticed the gauge still shows FULL. Not even a bar below or something. Is there anything wrong with my gauge?
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My daughter texted me today to inform me that her gas gauge indicator no longer reliably displays the fuel level. She's filled it up 3 times this week and the gauge still shows 1 bar. There are no other display anomalies: the speedo and other indicators appear to be normal. This 2008 has never had the combo meter changed and it's out of warranty since it's a salvage title.
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1996 Mazda Protege, 125,000 miles. Temperature gauge on dashboard moves very little.
Do I need to get this checked out, ie, if not what would happen? (I have had car in recently for other problems but no one n the shop mentioned it, even though they have had the car out for a drive).
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I have a 2004 F150 XLT 5.4 L 79,000 miles. Yesterday i was driving home turned a corner and the low fuel light came on and the fuel gauge is well below empty. I had approx 1/2 tank of fuel when it happened. I have since filled tank all the way but the gauge will not move and low fuel light stays on. Everything else is working fine! I have never run the truck low enough on fuel to make the dummy light come on.....
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I had the oil changed recently in my 2008 tundra 5.7 v-8. I noticed the oil pressure gauge moving. When I started the truck, I noticed the gauge will move to the right of the indicator in the middle of the gauge and then it will go back to the middle mark on the gauge when it is warmed up. I also notice that it moves a little when I accelerate. Maybe it has done this in the past and I just have not noticed but was wondering if I should be concerned.
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I'm looking to trade my '95 dodge ram 1500 with someone for their '95 grand cherokee. The GC has 190k miles on it, my truck has 155k.
I noticed when test driving the GC that the oil gauge follows the rpms of the engine. I.e. when idle the oil gauge is low-mid level. When i raise the RPMs, the gauge indicates there is more oil pumping, then when i go back to idle it drops back down too; in other words it looks like the oil jumps with RPMs.
I've never seen this type of behavior before, is this a sign of typical behavior for a jeep GC, a bad gauge, maybe an oil leak?
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I have a 94 Ford Ranger, 2WD, 5-Speed, with 2.3 engine. My temp gauge hardly moves at all... It actually appears as if it doesn't move it you don't pay close attention and were to just glance at it. I'm thinking it is most likely the temp sensor that is on the engine block as I understand there is also one that is in the line that controls the fans for the radiator. Am I approaching this in the right direction or is there something else I might need to do?
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I was heading to the gas station with one bar on the fuel gauge. When I got there to fill up I had two bars, same Miles To Empty (45). What would cause that?
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Not the usual. I stopped on my way home to get gas tonight when the gauge was showing one pip. Naturally it wasn't low, but I'm used to that.
The odd thing is that after I got in the car and turned it back on the gauge stayed at one pip and the fuel display on the multi-function display didn't reset.
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So the other day i hit something on the road and all of the sudden when im coasting in gear i hear a "thududududududd" noise from mid engine.. you cant hear it when the windows are down, only when they are up and it doesn't happen in neutral or when the clutch is pressed in. also after i shut the car off and turned it back on i had a CEL for the A range vehicle speed sensor which i replaced yesterday but still the speedo doesn't work and the gas gauge is moving around bends. when letting off the gas to shift the car stops almost like hitting the brakes and shifts kind of hard. It also backfires like a shot gun in 4th gear only. I recently had a stage 2 south bend clutch put in but everything was fine after that installation.
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Need to solve the problem of my Toyota Prius car in 2008. The car is cold while working well for a maximum time of 1 hour, the first symptom is to stop the air conditioner to cool, then turn on the light triangle warning, after driving a little longer for the vehicle and no more moves. If you wait until the vehicle returns to work for a few minutes to cool, then everything fails again with the same symptoms. And you change the battery 12 Volt, and you change the water pump hybrid system and I can not solve!
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I rebuilt the engine on my toyota celica. After putting everything back together there are a few bizarre symptoms I am hoping to get sorted out.
1) It only starts with starting fluid, but once it starts it will run continuously without dying.
2) The temperature gauge goes up relatively quickly, and also moves with the throttle. For example if it is as the 1/3 level and I apply throttle it will bump up. It continues to jump along with throttle play.
3) When I remove the coolant sender and/or sensor plugs, the gauge still reads the same (is this normal).
4) The fans don't turn on unless I remove the sender cable (the one with one wire and not two)
If I understand correctly the sensor with one wire is the sender and the sensor with two wires is the temp sensor. I am having a hell of a time determining the difference. The one with a single wire contact is plugged into the thermostate cover/pipe. The one with two wires is in the thermostat housing.
Did I fry the ECU somehow? What is going on?
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