Prius (2004-09) Fuel :: Hard To Get Car To Stay Around 50 Mpg Even On Flat Terrain
Feb 19, 2011
I bought my Prius 2 days ago and I am now on a long car trip. I think I understand how to drive the car, but I was fighting to get the car to stay around 50mpg - even on flat terrain it wanted to be down around 35. I tried using cruise control, I tried manual. Going up hill I'd get 19-28... almost always coasting to 99.9 down hill (though a couple times it would be low then too) but the flat time is what really killed me.
View 17 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2008 toyora prius with 75423mi on it, was purchased with 70000mi two or three months ago. I have had no problems with this vehicle until recently. Being a prius newbie, I decided to ask here. When sitting parked on a slight slope earlier with the car running, radio running, and phone plugged in for an extended amount of time, I received an error on my display stating smething along the lines of "there is an abnormality with the p transmission mechanism, please part the car on a flat surface and engage the parking break completely" paired with a red triangle on the dash. I immediately moved the car to flat ground and engaged the parking break. The car turns one, shifts fine, and acts just as normal as prior. Is there anything I should be worried about? The car is still under toyota warrenty and is due an oil change now. Any clue what the cause of this was and if it will be reoccuring?
View 13 Replies
2007 F150 supercrew, sometimes it doesn't want to shift out of park even on a flat surface where its not torque locked.. is there an adjustment i can do myself?
View 2 Replies
I've a Hyundai 03 Accent that wont turn over. The heater fan would stay on with the key removed and subsequently my battery went dead flat.
I tried to roll start, then jump start to no avail. I fully charged the battery overnight but now when starting the car there is no response. I checked the battery - 12.7 volts. Checked the fuse' under the hood, getting power there. Checked the power supply to the ignition switch - 12.7 volts.
There is no lights on the dash - i.e., engine check, airbag etc. But the interior overhead lights, door open and headlights all work fine.
Iv'e got a hold of an 00 accent running fine and have been swapping parts out. I swapped all the fuses I could see that might be causing the problem. Swapped ignition switch. Swapped fuses under the dash.
I have power to the ignition switch with the key out. Key in, no power to switch. On the running accent I have power to different wire depending on key location.
View 3 Replies
One of my pet peeves about the Prius Plug-in is that the car won't stay in full electric mode under hard acceleration. Any mods to keep the car in pure electric propulsion?
View 19 Replies
Prius was running wonderfully until a few weeks ago. Recently, about 2 months ago, bought a new 12v battery. Everything was working fine.
About two weeks ago, the car wouldn't start. Jump started all good. Drove fine. If left unstarted for a day, it goes flat the next day. If driven every day, car will start fine.
Battery volt reads 14.1V whilst driving. I checked on the MFD screen.
View 13 Replies
"There is a problem with the transmission "P" lock mechanism Park your your car on a flat surface and fully apply the parking brake." with the red triangle
I've done a ton of google searches on this issue with no luck finding a resolution.
View 13 Replies
In a cold weather also noticed the EV mode doesn't stay on for a long time even with a 90% full battery and fully warmed up. The engine starts to kick in randomly.
View 6 Replies
My C4 currently has around 1500 miles on it and during a drive over the weekend of sustained driving over 65mph over hilly terrain I noticed my MG2 temps reaching 200F. Several times it exceeded 200F.
I'm using an iPhone app called Engine Link to pull the temp info. Noticed with a ScanGauge similar high MG2 temps during sustained speeds over 65mph?
From reading this board, my understanding is that ideally the temps should be ICE coolant > MG1 > MG2. But during sustained freeway driving mine actually is more like MG2 > MG1 > ICE.
View 19 Replies
For the past couple of days I have been hearing a window rattle. It is hard to figure out where the rattle is coming from, but my guess would be the hatchback door. It only occurs when I am driving on a rough terrain with a lot of bumps.
View 7 Replies
It's been like that for a a while now. Every morning the hybrid battery would run down to last bar. When I start the car it would be 3/4 full and it would keep draining even though I'm on flat road.
The overall mileage has not changed much but its annoying with the battery goes to last bar and there's no electric power to accelerate.
View 2 Replies
I have an 07 Prius that's been going great for me. About two weeks ago I get this strange error message about my P Lock mechanism and how I need to be parked on a flat surface with the parking brake fully engaged. The car wouldn't start, just a bunch of warning lights. Finally I replaced the 12v battery at the dealership.
View 8 Replies
When I first got my car it had a flat spot while driving hard at higher rpms. Almost as if something were actually holding the car back, it would pull nice up to that spot and then just almost die off. I eventually got unitronic flash and it seemed better but it was still doing it. Later companies started coming out with dsg flashes and this seemed to be the remedy but I now have hpa dsg flash and it still does it from time to to time. Could this be a faulty coilpack, or an issue with the intake manifold valve that changes over at higher rpms?
View 4 Replies
I have a 4160 on a 351 Ford. I confess, it's a boat!
I had a major flat spot when accelerating off idle. I found it wasn't pumping on the accelerator circuit.
I replaced the accelerator diaphragm and cleaned the squirts and the passages. It squirts great now, but if I floor it, it completely bogs. If I baby it really carefully, once the engine gets over about 1800 rpms, it acts fine.
I thought it over, checked the travel on the arm that presses the diaphragm, and figured my pump cam was worn. It "seemed" like the duration of the squirt was not long enough.
I got a new cam kit. The orange cam on my carb was not a bit worn compared to the cam in the kit. Not encouraging. I put the only other cam in the kit that I thought might work. It was blue, and it gave more lift but no greater duration. It did not make any difference that I can tell. Is there a transition circuit I might have problem with? I don't know enough to go any further.
View 9 Replies
We know that a problem can arise in shifting the car into D if the brake is not depressed enough, or the sensor monitoring brake pressure is malfunctioning.
A similar -- but different -- symptom of having trouble shifting gears occurs when the gear shift lever is not working. Patrick Wong reported this problem, and noted that the lever stayed in the wrong place.
My car had a gear shift problem today, and I wonder if I am seeing something new. I started the car, and shifted into D. I saw on the display that the D was selected, but when I took my foot off the brake the display shifted back into N, and pressing the fuel pedal had no effect. If I remember correctly, the ICE did not rev. The problem resolved itself after a couple of tries shifting into D. My last attempt that worked happened when I moved the lever to D and held it there a few seconds.
Later that same drive, I drove in reverse a bit, and then was unable to shift into D and stay there. The gear shifted back into N on the display after I selected D. I am uncertain if the shift back happened when I lifted my foot from the brake, or when I pressed on the fuel pedal, but I think the latter. I'm pretty sure the car was functionally really in N, because it rolled backwards on the incline I was on when I took my foot off the brake. My earlier success by holding the gear shift lever a few seconds did not work, but the problem resolved itself by powering down and restarting the car. Parenthetically, since searching for answers tonight on the forum, I now know from John1701 that I can 'soft' reset the gear shift software by holding down the PARK button for a few seconds.
View 12 Replies
So I have a 2000 Hyundai Accent that has been a relatively good car for the 11 years I've owened it. About 2 months ago I got a flat tire, which I didn't notice until a passenger in another car told this while waiting at a stop light. I was so close to home (within a mile) that i decided to trek it slowly back. Made it back and a friend of mine put a donut on and I had the two front tires replaced the next day.
Within a week of having the tire changed I noticed several issues with the car. First, it was starting to make a very loud, almost grinding sound. Looked into whether or not tires had anything to do with it since I just had them changed. I pretty much now think its a wheel bearing. It seems to be coming from the right front passenger side. It gets louder as I speed up and also especially loud during left curves and turns.
But all that is background for my real problem. In addition to the above the transmission started acting up. At first I though it was the engine because the problem was initially just sputtering whenever I would slow the car down to a stop. I changed the spark plugs and wires but that didn't work. Then it started having problems shifting. Even going to 3rd now it can take a while, staying at a higher than normal rpm. And when it finally shifts it knocks hard. Only thing I did was have the transmission oil changed since it was about 40k miles past where Hyundai says it should have been done. That worked only slightly (maybe not at all). On top of that, there's also has an engine smell (like hot burnt oil) inside the car when I drive it for an extended amount of time. This was happening before and after the transmission oil change.
These are the first major issues I've had with this car. The only exception is that I've had a failed oxygen sensor twice but that was cheap to have repaired and both times the check engine light was on. It has not turned on once since this started happening. I've stopped driving the car long distances and especially over hills. I go 5 miles between home and work with it now. I was starting to think about getting another car before this happened but I'm still not ready to do that now.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 F350 Dually 7.3 w/260K miles. Hard starting, it has to be plugged in all the time. Occasionally/most of the time, blows white smoke at 50 to 60 mph or at high rpm. Replaced TPS and now runs totally different on starting, still hard to start but better throttle response on starting. Once started, I have to pedal it to keep it running, which seems to have little response as it would as if it was a direct throttle linkage attached to a carburetor...follow me? After a while, it will idle by itself. However, it still has flat spots when out of idle and at high rpm. Has gotten to the point that I can't trust to drive it.
View 4 Replies
The lid on my "upper" glove box will not stay up. How to fix this? I cannot figure how to get to the mechanism.
View 19 Replies
I have a 2005 Prius and the car will not stay in D but starts up fine in zero degree weatther.
I can only go forward in the B mode until the car warms up.
View 1 Replies
Purchased an 04 Prius with 140k miles and bad HV battery. Used torque app and pulled original codes for bad HV battery. I was able to drive/limp the car home for tear down and replacement. After installing a used HV battery that had 80k from and 08 car. It will start but shutdown after a few seconds. I was able to put it in to drive and move it but it still dies. Energy display shows no battery status and now I get the connect to air conditioner communication warning. The battery's are reading 15.2 volts each from the torque app these are read in pairs so seeing 14 readings all within .1v of each other. I am not getting any codes from the computer.
View 19 Replies
So my understanding is that the Gen II does not have a warning light that you have left your headlights on because they lights have an auto off after 30 seconds? Well one night in a rush I left my lights on for about an hour (they did not turn off) and I came out to a dead battery. I guess my question is: Do I have a warning beep that is broke? Or is my auto off feature broke?
View 16 Replies
