why the engine keep running but no charging and no driving? the car was down hill, the battery was fully charged (green), I did not accelerate ( my foot was not on the paddle), but the engine sometimes keep running with a very low gas consumption. this become more often in winter, even when car stopped. I would like to know is this normal for Prius or there is any I can do to improve this?
View 11 Replies195k miles.... I have charged the battery, I have bought a new battery, I have Charged the new battery... All with no avail.. Slowly but surely one at a time the abs trac control and stability control lights come on and eventually the triangle of death... Meaning when I shut it off its not going to restart.. If i drive it sparingly it might take a week if i drive it all day then it takes one day... when fully charged there is no warning or sign that there is a battery issue or draining untill the voltage is starting to get low. I have an ultra gauge hooked up and shows 14.14 while driving, I am lost as to whats the issue. also no codes or pending codes... I have taken the new battery to auto zone and had a functional test done.. said checked good... signed befuddled
View 19 Replies5.4 L, Engine runs if primed at the intake. Fuel pump can be heard running but no fuel gets to the engine. Truck is mint and being sold real cheap due to this issue.
Fuel Pump? Filter? Both? I haven't seen the truck, a friend is considering buying it and rolling the dice it is a quick fix. Fuel is in the tank .....
Recently we went on trip requiring a 3 hour ferry ride. Decided to keep it in READY to listen to the stereo and maintain a minimal level of heat. I noticed the engine kicking on and no arrows from or to anywhere. The HV battery gauge was mostly down to 2-3 bars but still no arrows. There were times that it kicked on and the arrows showed the batteries being charged too. Was the engine kicking on without charging just to maintain the engine coolant temp to provide heat for the cabin, or what?
View 4 RepliesIs there anyway to charge a couple of batt cells by running the car.
Just replaced 2 packs and there voltage is 2-3 volts lower than the rest of the batt packs? the ones replaced are at 14.5 to 15 where the others are at 17-18 volts.
Dude charges the battery in drive by pressing the brake and gas. Why would you ever do this?
View 9 RepliesI used to get really good mileage on my 12.5 mile commute, if I didn't reach 50 miles per gallon, I considered it a poor commute. But over the last several hundred miles, I have only averaged about 45 miles per gallon - sometimes I'm not even reaching 40 mpg. I checked my tires, they are fine. I also notice that the gasoline engine is running a lot. I'll be at a stop sign, and the battery is nearly full, but the gas engine is running.
View 19 RepliesIt appears as though my car is charging just slightly when I'm driving and my foot is neither on the accelerator or the brake. Is this normal?
Also, this light is on. I'm not sure what this is....
I just bought a 2012 Prius c. There are oftentimes when I don't drive my car for a few days. When this happens, I have heard that the car might not start, especially in the winter. Is this true?
View 7 RepliesFrom my understanding, there are 3 batteries in the PIP. 2 of them are for EV mode, and 1 is for Hybrid mode. they are all hooked up together and also the electric motor when it is fully charged. when the first pack (ev pack) get's depleted, it will disconnect via relays from the remaining 2 packs. then when the second pack is depleted (second EV pack) it will discontinue from the last remaining pack. below is a small simple diagram of what it looks like:
Fully charged: (EV1)-----(EV2)-----(HYBRID)-----[motor]
1st pack depleted. still in EV mode: (EV1)---x---(EV2)-----(HYBRID)-----[motor]
both EV packs depleted and in HYBRID mode: (EV1)---x---(EV2)---x---(HYBRID)----[motor]
(x = disconnected)
How I can charge my hybrid battery while driving on city streets with an average speed of 35-45MPH. Once I get off the highway, the hybrid battery is almost full, only missing two "bricks" or "Bars." I will then accelerate very slowly only using the electric motor to drive the vehicle for the next couple of miles.
Once the battery has depleted to where it only has two bars, I will then accelerate a little faster to run the engine so it can charge the battery. But, I bring up the energy monitor and then watch the arrows.. making sure that arrows are coming out of then engine to drive the vehicle AND making sure that the electric motor is not supporting the engine.
Been driving for 3 days now for a total of about 100 miles from a full tank averaging 50 miles per gallon. I noticed the gauge still shows FULL. Not even a bar below or something. Is there anything wrong with my gauge?
View 19 RepliesSo I got my car today (2005) and I love it! I have some questions about it. When I was driving back from the dealership, I was watching the energy screen. The temperature was about 28F and it was mostly highway driving between 65-75 MPH.
During the drive, I kept noticing the yellow arrows flashing on for 500mS, then go off, then come back on in a few seconds. I wasn't able to keep the yellow arrows on consistently. There didn't seem to any sequence to it, it just seemed random. The battery never dropped below 7 bars except when I was going slow and it was always green when I was going slow. Also, the only time the battery went to 8 bars was when I braked hard and that was one time.
I would have thought the car would have used more of the battery to assist but at the same time my MPG was over 50 (51.1 to be exact) so I'm thinking this is normal. Is it?
After driving 20 min at 40 mph, I came to a traffic stop. The engine was still running, the battery was at 75% full, outside temp 80, A/C set at 75. I noticed the MDF showed no engine running at all. But I can feel a little vibration, which tells me that the engine speed was very low, and not constant, at/below idle speed.
When I finally get home and park the car, the battery was green! Basically the engine kept running even for the last 5 min when I drove at 30 mph.
Does that indicate something wrong?
My car is a 2004 at 222K miles. 12V Battery changed 3 years ago, PCV, spark plugs changed 6 month ago. I've noticed sometime that HV battery is weaker than before, easier to get high engine speed when picking up at 50 mph +.
I have a 2005 prius, and it has developed a severe vibration when the engine is running. It is only when the engine is running, even in park. I'm thinking it's the motor mounts, but I was wondering if there could be another cause. I do not have a check engine light, and the engine appears to be running fine. the vibration goes away whenever the engine cuts off, and there are no other drivability issues.
View 3 RepliesI have got Prius 2004. I have got a problem. With MFD. It's showing the screen where it should show that the battery is charging but it's not showing the charging at all. Car is running fine and starts as normal. I have changed the 12V battery but it's still not showing the charging.
View 6 RepliesA good thing about Prius PHEV conversions in general is that they mostly don't change the appearance of the car, except for an outlet on the bumper and a switch on the dash.
You can't tell when it's charging and when it's done, without opening the bottom hatch (which may require unloading cargo). The "low battery" indicator can't be seen in daylight.
The charger has a light that turns red when charging and green when charged (or when the battery pack is disconnected). My preference was to move this light to the power connector on the bumper, but this was not practical. Instead, I found that it was very easy to get access to the reverse light in the tail light assembly, without even removing the cover.
We were driving on mt highway and ran over rock. Had the undercarriage checked immediately and mechanic spotted the mark inches from transmission but said all was fine. Last evening the engine began to run very rough and loud particularly when not accelerating; true even when idling/parked. Also noticing a small rattle that is infrequent and disassociated with any consistent pattern. We are in Taos Ski valley at about 8k elevation. Still have two weeks of vacation driving ahead of us.
View 4 RepliesI recently ran very low on coolant with my 2005 Prius and had the overheat light coming on. Immediately before the overheat light came on, I realized that the blower was blowing cold air even though the engine was running. When the light came on, I immediately stopped and refilled coolant at the overflow reservoir and the radiator and let it run through a few times. I have re-topped off the coolant levels and it seems to be holding steady. Hopefully I have not done long-term damage to the engine, but that remains to be seen, and is, of course, very possible given that I let it get so low.
A symptom I have right now is that when I turn the car/engine on, hot air does not come out of the blower. If I remain in park, when the engine turns off, hot air begins to come out. When the engine kicks back in, the hot air stops. What this may be a symptom of?
I've noticed lately that my Prius (2008) sometimes decides to keep the ICE running even though the engine is warm and the gas pedal is not depressed. I can pulse and glide (with the engine off during glide) the first 5-10 minutes of driving, and then all of a sudden the ICE starts running constantly. I have to press the EV button to be able to glide. Quite annoying... I bought the Prius just to get rid of the ignition jerking.
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2005 Prius with 77,400 miles on it. My wife came home from a short trip yesterday saying the engine was shaking the car and the CEL was flashing. About 4 months ago we also had the CEL come on but not flash and it ran a bit rough but not as bad as it is now. I was told by our local dealer that a flashing light is worse than if the light comes on and stays on. When this happened 4 months ago at 74,000 miles the dealer said they downloaded codes P300, 303, and 304 and that I needed to replace all 4 fuel injectors.
I realize that 300 is a general misfire code and 303 is a misfire code for cylinder 3 and 304 is for cylinder 4. After reading some advice on here 4 months ago, I cleaned my MAF sensor, ran some fuel injector cleaner through a tank of fuel, replaced all 4 spark plugs, and started buying Chevron gas. The CEL stayed off and our mileage went back to normal. I thought I had solved the problem but now this after 3000+ miles. I checked all the ingitors, connections, spark plugs, and wires yesterday and all seem to be in good condition. Maybe they were right and the fuel injectors are going bad. I am at a loss as what else to do other than take it back to the dealer now and plan do that this afternoon.