i've noticed on my 2008 prius that once i lose the first bar of gas i begin to rapidly lose the rest. For example the first bar might take three days to vanish but once its gone i might lose the second bar on the same day i lost the first.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
View 4 RepliesAfter about 2,000 miles I'm averaging about 35.5 mpg on my Energy Savers, down from about 40 mpg on Michelin Harmony's. No change in driving habits. No change in tire pressure. Installer has checked them and doesn't see anything wrong. Balanced and aligned at installation. My 2008 is typically carries close to the maximum rated weight with passengers, dogs and/ or gear, hence the lower than average mpg. Michelin will exchange them, but doesn't consider them broken in until 5,000 miles, which I certainly won't reach within the 30 day guarantee period.
View 12 RepliesSaw a drop in mpg from 45mpg to 34mpg. Since I was way over 200,000 miles, I began to fear traction battery failure. Toyota looked over codes, did diagnostics, etc. and found nothing. They recommended and replaced the auxiliary battery, which made no difference. I fought with them on aux. battery replacement price since their costs had gone up 50% in two years. Mine was barely out of warranty. So what happened. I replaced the iridium plugs. Mileage jumped back up to 45mpg.
View 8 RepliesI've had my 2007 Driftwood Pearl Package 2 Touring a little more than a year now. I had been getting 42-46 MPG every tank until I filled up my gas tank today.
View 19 RepliesI used to get 55-58 MPG when my commute was 65 miles one way, 85% freeway. But these days I noticed that when AC runs hard and trips typically 16 miles, 40 MPH, mpg dropped to 42-45. That worried me a little bit.
Driving style: conservative. I start off normally, but I use N gear as soon as passing speed limit. (this factor alone should enhance mpg by 10 I guess. I used this technique on my 98' Lexus LS400, 4 Ltr V8 engine, once got 38 mpg on freeway, while the sticker says 18/25). This is the main reason I worry that something is wrong with my prius.
Typical range: 16 miles, all local.
Tire pressure: 40 psi
AC runs hard, outside temp 90 degrees, I set temp to 72 inside. (I guess this is the main reason for mpg drop, but I don't think it should drop that much)
I recently changed oil and trans oil.
My battery is a little bit weak, but no warning light. If I forget to turn off head lights, it needs jump in 10 minutes.
Mileage is 143K, 2004 model.
Water pump changed by Toyota free of charge.
Any clue? or it sounds normal and I don't need to worry about it?
I have a 2005 Prius with 130k miles on it. In Oct 2012 I took it to the Toyota dealer for 120k service. They performed the following:
120k service
Replace serpentine belt
Clean and adjust drums
Replace cabin/hepa micro filter
Replace brake system fluid
Since then my car's mpg has dropped from ~45 to ~35mpg. I specifically notice that the pickup is completely gone and that it seems to "drag" pretty badly when starting from halt (stop sign, a light etc). Once it gets up to ~40mph, it appears to be doing all right in terms of mpg. What could be causing the "drag" and mpg drop?
Right now I am seeing roughly 41 MPG and that is after changing the spark plugs with brand new NGK Iridium's, Air intake filter and did an oil change since it was due for one. I have driven the car roughly 2,500 miles since all of this stuff was done and it just seemed to continue to drop to the 41 MPG mark.
What I have noticed though is that when the motor turns off it shudders and the when it restarts while the car is in park the car will roll back and forth slightly. I have also noticed that the car seems to struggle to get up to the posted speed while climbing an incline and also while the car idles in park or at a complete stop there seems to be a bit of a miss fire. Could that be caused by a bad coil? Because I have tried everything short of taking it to the dealer which I really do not want to do again and be told there is nothing wrong with it when I know there is.
In the last 2 weeks I get 60MPG (indicated) with ease on my 22 mile round trip all city work commute. The commute is very predictable with the same speeds and driving technique and similar light pattern.
The thing is, the most part of the summer I had to work hard to get upper 50's on the same commute.
No, I don't use AC as the temps are mild enough to drive with windows down in early morning and evening.
There are 2 variables: the ambient temp went down to low 80's rather than high 80's before.
So i have a 1996 honda accord, it has 253k miles, i know, alot of miles. Well, i noticed it has been losing coolant pretty fast, i would fill it up with coolant and it would run out by the next day. I also notice that when i am sitting still, it runs hot, not sure if that goes along with it losing coolant rapidly or if that could be something else. I checked my oil dipstick the other day, it doesn't seem to have coolant mixing in with the oil, so i don't think it would be a head blown, i know i do need a gasket changed, but not an actual head for the engine. I haven't noticed any coolant in my driveway, then again I shouldn't have a leak, i just had the radiator, thermostat, water pump and the bell housing all changed a couple months ago. I also noticed that i am running low on oil more often as well. The other day, after i topped it off with oil, it was blowing out white smoke off and on and then it stopped, what could that be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 GMC sierra 1500 5.3 L V8. Recently I have noticed that when I first start my truck, especially if it's a cold start, it doesn't seem to be running right. It sounds almost as if it's not getting enough fuel to me but I'm not sure. It will first run really good, and then it will drop in RPM's pretty rapidly and almost sound as if it was about to die, which it has died a couple of times in the past from this problem.
Once I give it some gas it seems as if it comes back to life, but if I happen to stop at a red light or stop sign pretty soon after driving, I will encounter the same problem, where it sounds as if it may be about to die. After I get going though, the problem disappears and the truck runs great. I decided to pull the codes finally today, and code P0174 and code P0171 popped up. I have looked at the vacuum hoses and they all seem to be in good shape, but like I said earlier, I could be wrong.
I purchased a 92 Lumina Euro with a 3.1 and 101,400 miles on it a little over two weeks ago. It has been having problems since I got it.
It stalls intermittently, typically after I drive to work, shut it off for two hours, and then start it to go to my next client(home health aid) sometimes it stalls right after starting it then, and/or sometimes when put in reverse and/or drive and occasionally at stops signs after the aforementioned problems occur. It has also stalled out twice after highway driving after the car is shut off and started shortly afterwards, for instance, when I ran into a tobacco store for some cigs.. After the problem occurs it usually drives ok if I continue to drive it awhile even if I shut it off for a short time and restart.. I added some fuel injector cleaner when I filled the tank but it didn't work.
After about a week of the stalling issues the car refused to start after dying and didn't start for two or three days. As I was unable to get an answer from the dealer my step-father, who went with me when I bought the car, called him and he said if I could get the car there he would fix it. So I borrowed a bundle to have it towed the 25 miles or so to the small town car lot.
His mechanic supposedly fixed it by replacing the TPS and the dealer informed me that they had cleaned the throttle body before I bought it and apparently the TPS needed replaced to. However the issues again started after one day of it running fine. I tired to get a hold of this guy again and again I get the voice mail and no return call so as soon as I got off work I drove it over there and again he said he would fix it. He had it for three days and I again tried to get a hold of him without success and he again answered the phone for my step-dad and told him they had ordered some kind of module that would be in Monday. So Wednesday he calls me and tells me that they didn't replace this module because when they took it out it tested good five times but they noticed some gunk build up at the contacts of the wires that hook to the module and now the car was fixed. Why did they order the part before testing??? This doesn't make sense so it throws doubt on what the man said. I went to get the car and when I got back to my town and went to get those cigs it died twice after restart and put into reverse. That was two days ago and it has been dying once or twice each day since then although it is somewhat better than before as it isn't taking as long for the idle to even out at sufficient rpms after I throttle it at idle or drive awhile. BUT now it seems to be sucking the gas hard and I am wondering if this guy just did some jerry-rigging because he sure isn't fixing it.
A few more details. The rpms drop rapidly when this occurs, it has a couple of times had a rough idle at the same time but more often the rpms drop and it dies.Sometimes if I use the throttle and keep it up around 1000 rpms for a short time it won't die. I have smelt a burnt smell a couple times when I shut the car off, like electric burnt, not oil burnt or stinky exhaust. Lets see, I felt a very brief loss of power feeling when driving on the highway on two different occasions, so brief that it was barely discernable. It runs over the halfway point on the temp gauge after driving awhile in town, seems a little hot to me but I read these cars don't kick on the fan till 220. Sometimes the rpm bobs a little up and down at idle and slow speeds and once the battery power dropped and popped right back up when it was idling funny and when it had that no start an acquaintance tested it by putting a screwdriver in a plug wire and pointing it towards the engine as I cranked it and he said it had no spark and it did crank every time I tried to start it during the no-start condition. It has also done a bit of surging from time to time when the prob happens. The car is recovering from the stall condition quicker than it did before since this last "fix" but still stalling.
I have only done 18,000 Kms on my 2013 Elantra GLS. Whenever I am in traffic driving real slow, and whenever the gear shifts in 2nd, the acceleration begins to drop to 1000/1500 RPM very rapidly while pressing and releasing the pedal, and it becomes jerky...
I will try posting a video, but meanwhile, it gets really annoying at times and I need to maintain a very feather foot to make sure it doesn't jerk especially when there are passengers on board..
Last 2 weeks my 2006 HV battery seems to be showing the SOC very erratically. Going up and down fairly rapidly, sometimes staying at 4 bars for a good 20 minute drive on the highway. This weekend after driving 7 hours in 110 degree heat, the battery fan came on. It was blowing on high for about 15 minutes and then it quieted down.
I believe these are signs of it's potential upcoming failure. The car has only 127k miles so I'm still in warranty. So fingers crossed that I'll be close to home when I see all the warning lights pop up.
I was driving down a stretch of freeway that sloped down, took an exit, and rolled to a stop at a red light. The traction battery indicator was at full. While waiting for the light to turn green, the ICE would come on for a few seconds, turn off for a few seconds, turn on again, doing so for the minute or so until we started moving again. What was happening.
View 5 RepliesSo yesterday, I reset my trip meter when I put on gas. I did a 7 mile drive home (no highways) MPG was around 54. This morning, my husband pulls the car from the garage to the driveway to install my name plates. When I start the car, I noticed MPG was 41. What could have caused the sudden overnight shift from 54 to 41. I only drove 3 miles to work since then so it is hovering around 42. Could the cold morning start to back up from garage did something? Could he have left the power switch on (and it shut off automatically).
View 6 RepliesMy average mileage down to 36MPG this week. is there something wrong with my car? never really went as far as 50mpg the best I got was 45mpg. my average is 40mpg.
View 3 RepliesI turned on the car, CONS showed 56.0mpg,
backed out of the garage (about 20 feet) 55.8 mpg,
waited for the garage door to close 55.0 mpg (ICE started),
got to the end of the street (about 200 feet) 54.0 mpg
outside temp was 51F, humid, cloudy
had about 90 miles on new tank of fuel
I know you get big swings in fuel economy when you reset the trip on fill ups but I just thought it was funny that the mpg would drop 0.8 mpg while not moving.
After oil changes (seen this 1-2 times now) on my 2009 Prius, I see a drop in mpg from 48 --> 45 or so. My driving doesn't change significantly, and I believe that the mpg slowly recovers over time.
Is there a reasonable explanation? Am I having my oil changed wrong? I usually get a 5W30 regular oil from Jiffy Lube -- nothing special. I decline the fully synthetic, because the 2009 model doesn't call for it, but would this affect the mpg?
My 2010 prius had been giving low mpg since the last three months. It has now 145K miles.when I bought it a year ago, it had 134K on it. I haven't changed the spark plugs, do they have any effect on low mpg? My mpg is about 39 now,but was 42_45 before.
What are the symptoms for the spark plugs to be changed?
I commuted to LA 2-3x a week. The mileage on my car is now at 90k. I have had an average of 40 mpg since new, but suddenly it began to drop. We took it to our local Toyota dealer and was told it was most likely a cable that needed to be cleaned. That was $160. It didn't work.
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