Prius (2004-09) :: Freon Leak At Schrader Valve
Jul 29, 2015
I had my a/c recharged in April and it was blowing hot again by July. I brought it back in today and they told me that it is leaking out of the Schrader valve on the low pressure side. They told me that they would have to replace the entire line which would cost a few hundred just in parts. Why can't they just replace the valve. The tried calling auto stores for a special part, but could not find one. How to seal or repair just the leaking Schrader valve and not the entire line?
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Tool that allows you to remove and replace the AC Schrader valves without evacuating the system?
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I have a 2006 F-250 6.0 diesel. The high side service port schrader valve is leaking. Currently there is a charge on the system but its low. I planned on evac-ing the system, replace the cores and refill until i came across this valve remove/replacement tool from MasterCool. The only problem i have is not knowing whether or not this tool fits the valve cores I have. I see already that the high side is quite a large core. I cant even find a core removal tool at local auto parts stores to fit. What size my valve cores are or if the following would fit both high and low sides?
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I've got an 04' accord and within the last couple weeks it started blowing warmer air but now it's hot. I've called around for a few prices to see about getting the freon replaced and everyone I've called is concerned there's a leak. We'll I've had the for 10 years doesn't the freon just run out eventually and you need to fill it up again? Am I getting scammed if I take it some place and they do a diagnostic that might be a hundred bucks just to look at it?
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Let me start off by saying that I live in the Virginia Beach area and it is HOT. My AC stopped blowing cold air late last summer so naturally I ignored it until the temperature hit close to 100 degrees a few weeks ago. We went to an Auto Zone store and purchased one of the recharge kits and had great success for about two weeks. Two weeks following our efforts to recharge the AC the air temperature started to increase once again. Now about three weeks later I have absolutely NO cold air coming from the AC. We THINK that this must be due to the car leaking freon somewhere. I have read online that the stop leak kits can really gum up your AC and in some cases cause it to stop working completely.
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I had a new engine put into my 2006 F350 SD 5.4 last year and ever since then I can't keep the freon charged in my ac. The mechanic said all he did was lay the compressor out of the way and didn't disconnect anything ac related. I have 2 different shops keep my truck for a couple days and neither could find a leak. Yet a month later, freon is low. I think I have more dye in my system than freon.
I put 2 of those ac leak sealers, the ones you have to ask for behind the counter and can keep my ac working for maybe 45 days, then throw 3 cans in it. No dye is showing up nor will the sniffer find anything. I hate to go to the dealer because I figure they will want to replace everything. Any tips other than try another shop and maybe they can find the leak.
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Seems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
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I have an oil leak on a 04 f250 6.0 stock. It has 292000 miles on her. It started as a few drips on the pavement about the size of a quarter and now has escalated to a steady trickle. It's on the driver's side in front of engine running down the corner of the block and dripping off the oil pan. I pulled intake plenum and everything and I thought it was coming out of the valve cover but now it looks like its just under the valve cover. It looks like its coming out of the front corner of the head. Its wet there and looks wet around the glow plugs. I cant run it now as I've drained the oil and coolant. I don't have a gauge or anything and its plain stock.
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I am a second owner to a 2008 GX Blizzard Pearl that I love. Have had the truck 4 years.
Truck has 83k miles. Is it time to change the timing belt, water pump, etc? Has never been done.
Aircon issues. Freon leaks out. Leak seems to be behind firewall, but mechanics have not been able to locate the leak.
Hate the wheels on the truck now that the paint is blistering.
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When and how to change?
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I had the PCV valve replaced around 60K, then at the next service they wanted to do it again (not reading the records that they had already done it). Then at 80K they wanted to do it again, I declined. Today it was in for 85K service and they said "the PCV valve is dirty and needs to be replaced." The advisor told me after the initial replacement at 60K the interval is 20-25K miles.
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When I did the PCV valve on my wife's car it looked like nothing more than a metal housing with a ball bearing rattling around inside. That left me wondering, why not just clean and reinstall the original valve? Is there a reason why that wouldn't be nearly as good? I realize it's a $10 part but I have to ask the question before I go buy another for my own car.
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I have a 2004 toyota Prius with 185k miles on it and recently got the CEL for P1121. I checked both coolants and turns out that the engine coolant was completely out. I immediately filled it up and the CEL went off for a couple days. It has come back and is on constantly, I checked the coolant and the coolant is at the correct level.
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What is the to cause to check engine light go off. I will take my car to auto zone tomorrow morning to hopefully get a code and see if I can fix it myself... if not, then I am going to have to go to the dealership.
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2004 Prius, 98K miles ... I recently replaced the coolant control valve (received code P1121) and added coolant. Trouble codes were cleared. I am now getting the red triangle intermittently. When I drive the car, after a few minutes, the red triangle comes on. I can shut off the car, and turn it back on, and the red triangle comes back after a few minutes. The car seems to drive normally.
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I have read all the posts pertaining to this code, replaced my coolant flow valve, bled all the air out of the coolant system and still am getting the cel with the 1121 code.
I have tried setting multiple coolant flow valve positions, checked all wiring in harness, coolant level is full in rad and reservoir, checked temp sensor at bottom of storage tank, checked pump operation at top of tank to attempt to clear this code to no avail.
Is there a default position the valve is to be in before cold start up?
Is there anything else that can trigger this code? What am I missing?
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Yesterday the check engine light came on in my 2006 Prius. I took it to the dealer, and they said that the camshaft gear and valve cover need to be replaced. Specifically, the diagnostic report says "P0011. Camshaft position A timing over. Advanced or system performance bank 1. Pin point check LED to CUV gear not switching."
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We've gotten quite a bit of rain in the LA area over the last couple of days and I noticed today that sometimes when I start/turn-off the car I hear what sounds like a liquid sloshing around behind the dashboard. Reading on the boards it sounds like a clogged A/C drain, but as it happens I just had the Coolant Valve replaced yesterday (after CEL came on with a P1121 diagnostic code) and so I wanted to check in -- could this be at all related to the new valve OR is it likely just a coincidence?
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i have a 2005 Toyota Prius that the air conditioner wont work in. it has Freon in it the compressor wont kick so I did some research and my cooling fans aren't kicking on so I did a by pass test and the cooling fans motor is good they just wont kick on. I just replaced my 2 cooling fan relays and they still wont kick on. the check engine light was on in the car when I got it. it throws the code P1121 coolant valve control. I got the part just got to get it put on. Could this part stop my cooling fans from kicking on or my ac compressor from coming on.
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Having issues with the stock one that came with our cars I think I may be leaking from the diverter valve. I was searching the forum but couldn't find the answer but when I hit the gas I can hear I would say like the diverter valve is constantly releasing the air and the power pretty much plateaus doesn't keep pulling like it did I'm assuming the diverter valve because i know there were issues of them before but i wasn't sure if they had the same issue in the mk6.
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My 2004 Prius with 224k miles is throwing a P0080 code (exhaust valve solenoid stuck high). So, I brought it to the dealer. They just called me saying that the main battery needs to be replaced. My battery graph shows that it's ok and the hybrid functionality works flawlessly.
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