Prius (2004-09) :: Finished Coolant Drain, CEL Came On
Jun 23, 2016
Just finished a drain and fill on my 2007 Prius; I've done several cycles of bleeding the air out of the system involving: engaging the coolant heat storage tank pump, squeezing the hoses, opening bleeder valve, running the engine for extended periods of time, but the check engine light is still on. My question is will it go off on its own, or do I have to clear/reset a diagnostic trouble code. I read that disconnecting the connector to the coolant heat storage tank (which I did per the repair manual instructions) may cause a check engine light to appear. I also read that having significant air still in the coolant system will also cause the check engine light to appear.
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Had my Prius since Saturday. First charge on Sunday. Charged fully, when turning it on saw the Charge result prompt. But I charged it Monday, saw the orange light, went out 3 hours later, light was off, unplugged it, blah blah.
But when I went out and drove it today, it didn't have the charge result indicator (actually, I wasn't looking) but I know it wasn't charged cuz it didn't go into EV mode.
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I recently bought a 2013 Prius v (lowercase v for the Prius v wagon) . The car has been in a front end accident but it has been fixed. When buying the car, i did not notice that the coolant in it was green.
I know that prii of this year run on Toyota pink, and I have also read that mixing coolant can lead to sludging and clog your system. So now I am trying to do a total flush and refill. I already have the pink coolant and I was able to drain about 5 qt (7.3 qt total capacity) from the radiator cock. I know about the existence of an engine block cock which would allow me to drain the rest of the coolant. But no matter how much I look I can not locate it.
I have read the repair manual, I know that is is supposed to be in the back of the engine half way up the block or so. But I just cant find it. I can't fill my car until I can do a proper flush.
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I started having a problem last week when my 2007 Prius was setting for two days while I was using my pickup truck. Found the 12 volt battery dead so I disconnected it and tested it with a battery load tester. And it showed it was bad. Well Ok, that figures, since it was an OEM battery and ~6-7 years old.
I have another 2007 Prius here for body repairs so I took the aftermarket (newer) battery out of it and topped the charge off in it. The battery load test indicated it was still a serviceable battery.
Put it in the car and cleared the red triangle, etc.. Everything was fine.
Since I was still going to be short one battery, I contacted Battery Systems, my shops battery dealer and ask them to drop off a new Yellow Top Optima that fits the Prius (FYI my shop price is $159.96). I would be a couple days til their deliver truck would be here and again I left the car sit for a couple days and drove my truck. On the day of the delivery, I had an appointment and drove the Prius, about 15 miles. No problem. Left it at in a street parking space for about 2 hours. Came out and all systems were dead. Nothing. Dome light was the only indication that the battery was so low that it was very dim. Head light were off and I hadn't used them while driving.
I called for road service and got a jump start and the systems came up and I was able to clear the Read Triangle when I got home by turning the car off and back on again.
The new Yellow Top Optima arrived shortly there after and I installed it. Drove the car for 6 days and this morning everything was fine when I drove to church and left it, head lites off (never had used them), came out 2 hours later and when I started the car, I got the Red Triangle and Ready but continued home. I turn it off and on again but this time I got no Ready but the Triangle and the whole sting of check light. Could only get it from park into neutral. Nothing else. Wouldn't clear.
Using my Torque Pro program, tried to read the ECU and it indicate no codes stored, Several tries, no codes or history. Called friend who has reader that will read the CAN Bus and he managed to find an odd P0503 code having to do with a speed sensor. Cleared that and the Triangle went out.
In the end I went and checked the voltage of the new battery and it was only 12.01 volts. I put the load tester on it and the condition is fine. Just the charge voltage is low.
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My 2009 prius last month with 34800 miles on it from toyota dealer, and im wondering if i should go ahead and get the transmission fluid changed,, it is almost 36k now and dont know if i should wait a litle longer, they did some minor services prior to sell it at dealer but transmission flud is not listed
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I'm coming up on my 120K service and will be replacing the spark plugs, PCV valve and I wanted to exchange the engine coolant (SLL pink stuff) for the engine. I replaced that stuff on the inverter side when they replaced the heater at a TBS recall.
I have a haynes manual and have searched on prius chat, but just cannot find specific instructions about this. On my '65 Ford mustang, there was a stop cock that I would just open or I would pull the lower radiator hose. To flush I would just pull the thermostat and run water through the system to clean then refill with antifreeze and water. I think that it will take about 6 quarts so I ave 2 gallons of the SLL pink stuff.
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On my new-to me 05 gen II with 76k miles, don't think trans. has been flushed/changed. How often should this be done?
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We have experience dead car, no start conditions with our 07 Prius at least 4 times. The nearest we can figure is that there is a drain when we place the car in ACC mode, close the power windows then turn it off. This kills the car in less than 3 hours. The last time the hybrid system complained about being in neutral when jumped...we NEVER use Neutral
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I posted a few months that after replacing my inverter coolant that the drain plug leaked. I tried to tighten it but that did not work. New Aluminum washer was installed. I took it in about 1 month ago for the steering shaft and inverter coolant pump replacement. After they drained the system and refilled post inverter pump replacement It still leaks.
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Recently replaced the transaxle fluid on my 2007 Prius with 47,000 miles. This was the first time the transaxle fluid has been changed in the vehicle. After removing the drain plug I noticed a substantial amount of a thick, grease type substance on the bottom of the plug. When they have change the transaxle fluid on their vehicles? I found minimal metal shavings on the plug, but was concerned on the thick sludge/grease substance on the bottom of the plug. The ATF fluid that I drained was very dark. Definitely not close to the red color of new ATF WS fluid.
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Issues:
1. Getting beeping noise like the keys left in the ignition when the doors open although they are not- battery is good.
2. Red triangle on start up with warning about Transmission- Parking brake does not sensor as being on, when on - in the diagnostic screen.
3. Fog lights are no longer operating when just the parking lights are on, but are when the headlights come on.
These issues may be separate but they all kind of happened in the same time span.
Background - 2009 Prius, Optium Battery initially installed Spring of 2012, over 66,000 miles. Battery is good, all fuses are good.
Since installing the Optium Battery I have had to change the battery about four times - as I am not always driving so I keep a 12v battery on the ready on a battery maintainer just incase I need to change batteries - not optimal, but it works for now. For this reason I turn the SKS off.
Last week my FOB started working erratically for about a week. I would have to press the button several times to get my door to open. Then it started working again like a champ. The battery in the FOB was changed by the dealer in September.
I regularly use the fog lights without the headlights. At the start of the week the fog lights no longer worked with the parking lights and only with the headlights.
Later in the week the car started beeping whenever I exited the vehicle from the driver's side. The beep was the constant short beep like when you leave your key in the ignition. I had not and nothing else was on (I read the post about the guy who moved his car for a family function.) This is an issue I associate with me having to change the battery, however it would have to wait to the weekend and an onboard diagnotic indicated that my battery with load was running at 13.9volts. Every other time I would start the engine I would get the red triangle and retry and the car would start up fine.
I was not able to make it to the weekend to change the battery and had to get a jump to get home on Friday. Upon initial start up after the jump and changing the battery the car indicated that there was a problem with the transmission ... park on flat surface... (Message goes to quicky for me to write it all down and I could not repeat the situation to get the message again).
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At about 92k miles (2 months ago), my 2005 Prius started having a battery issue... When going about 40 mph and above and not having to stop or apply my brakes, my battery would drain (to just 1-2 bars) in about 5-10 minutes and not recharge until I got into stop-and-go traffic (this would happen about 9 out of 10 times). Mpg was still pretty good during that time, but when I finally had to stop, the engine had to kick on to recharge the battery and my mpg just sucked...I went from averaging 45 mph to 39 mph.
I took my car into the dealership for them to have a look and to also perform my 95k service. When I told them that I feared the battery was dying, they said that the good news was that I had another year on my warranty (not sure if the battery warranty is extended in California). The service advisor eventually came back and stated that they had also observed the battery charging problem and that they had to pinpoint the exact problem (either an igniter, a battery cell, or something else that I can't remember). They even started the process of getting me a rental car for a couple of days.
However, the service advisor then came back and stated that no problem was found...he even walked me back into the garage where they were working on all of the cars just to ask the technician working on my car if there was a problem...he also stated that no problem was found. When I asked how initially a problem was found and then suddenly not found, I really didn't get a straight answer (I should have pressed harder). Anyway...after 10 hours in the shop, they pulled my car around and the manager came out to speak to me...stating how the 95k service showed no problems and how no problem with the battery was found. When I asked about how to prove to them that there really was an issue, he stated that if the problem kept occurring I could bring it back in and they could have one of their tech leads drive it home for the night as kind of a road test.
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I go over a mountain pass, to and from work. It is about a two mile up and down incline/decline. On several occasions while going up the pass,the gas motor has rapidly accelerated at a high rpm. I back off the gas pedal and check the 'battery indicator bars' and there are none. I then drive very slowly to the top of the pass and the batteries quickly recharge on the decline to a color of all light green bars, indicating a full charge. Same experience coming home. Once I do normal town driving, the bars settle around 'four or five blue bars.' Local dealer says there is on problem. I am driving at 55 mph when this happens.
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I have had this happen before (and drove right to the dealer but it was fine when I got there) and it happened again today. Its a very hot day and I had forgot to turn off my AC and radio when I shut the car down. So I started it up put it in drive (or reverse) and it would just jump to neutral and the battery was drained (purple lines) because this had happened before I knew that if I held it in place and turned off the AC I could drive and be fine in a few minutes and that's what happened. Is it just because on a hot day it drains the battery too fast. Its a 2008 Prius with no other problems but this. Its just an annoying thing that makes me crazy.
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Where is the coolant drain plug on the engine block? Have the haynes book and still can't figure it out.
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Where the engine coolant drain plug is located? The picture in the owner's manual is not very clear. I crawled under and found a bolt head with a washer under it located about six inches to the driver side of the oil filter. It's right next to the VIN number plate.
I expected to find it at the bottom of the engine but this bolt head is higher up, about even with the lower edge of the oil filter. Is this the coolant drain plug?
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On my 1.8t jetta she is leaking coolant slowly. Just started when it got cold out. It is dripping down the oil pan right down the center. It is falling off the oil drain plug. Was reading that it could be the water pump leaking but then it wouldn't be in the center of the pan. Got it jacked up now so here are some pics.
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I'm getting pretty comfortable with these forums now. Not sure if this is in the right section, but even if it was, I'm not sure how to find the right one. I recently purchased Bullet Proof Diesel's Air-to-Oil oil cooler along with the BPD oil filtration. I've already drained the oil, but do I need to drain the coolant as well? I have read of people doing a complete flush before even installing a new oil cooler (OEM oil cooler). That way once it is installed, it doesn't have all the grit and sand pumping through it right off the bat. But does it matter with BPD's system? Should I go ahead and drain the coolant completely before beginning this job?
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Will it drain the battery to leave the rear hatch open for extended time? i.e. for tailgating or camping (2008 Prius)
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I have a 1989 F250 4x4 with a 1990 460 EFI under the hood. As I was driving All of the sudden as i finished turning a corner the truck died. No Spudder like it ran out of fuel but more like someone had turned the key off.
I tried to restart it but i kept it short i was near other houses and it was 3am in the morning. On my way to work, I popped the hood, thinking okay we had a bad rain storm. Moisture in the Cap and rotor. Well went to pop it off Distributor is lose, oh joy. But the cap was dry but i did take out the rotor to clean the tip off and the cap too.. Still nothing when I tried to start it again.
I am getting ready to check for spark from the coil *hoping it just a lose coil wire*.. But would the Computer taking a vacation for life cause this.?
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Have a 2015 King Ranch with 72k miles. I noticed today a small drip of coolant coming from the corner of the radiator near the drain valve.
The truck is deleted however before it was deleted I did purchase an extended warranty through Flood Ford. What are the chances they will deny a warranty claim on this because of the dpf and egr delete?
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