My 07 with 178K miles is getting about 35MPG and the only thing noticeably different in the constant lighting of the low pressure indicator, even tho the tires are fine.
Stopping by Costco Tire, the mgr. said there is a battery in the indicator that does wear out, knowing how linked the electronics are in these cars, could this be the cause of the poor mileage?
I just bought a 2006 gx that has been lifted about 3" with old man emo springs. The ride height adjustment was removed and the adjustable shocks replaced with a larger non adjustable model.
The rims and tires were also replaced. I think the rims are 21" and the tires 33". The running boards were also removed and the wheel wells opened up a little.
The tire pressure indicator light is on all the time as the new rims and rubber don't link up to the sensor. This I can live with.
I tried it out today on a dirt road (Ophir Pass, Colorado) It worked great but about 200 yards in the check engine, and all three ride/safety system warning lights came on. (stability and slip sensors).
The car performed flawlessly, but the lights remained on even after I got to pavement. I did stop and check, oil, temp, coolant, etc when they came on and all seem to be fine.
I suspect it has something to do with either the oversized tires or the disconnected shock and height systems. How to get the lights to turn off?
2006 Prius, 134K miles. All tire pressures perfect but pressure indicator light started flashing about a minute then stays on. Happens each time car starts. There have been no weather temperature fluctuations. Attempted indicator reset by pushing “ON” once without pedal push and then pushing and holding pressure reset button under dash for a minute. Nothing happens. Indicator does not come on or flash when pushing the reset button while in “On” mode. Tires have not been changed or rotated since last year.
View 10 RepliesI purchased my 2014 Prius v 11/29/2014. Drove it home, all good. About 2 weeks later, while driving down 231 in Alabama, tire pressure light goes off. 3 tires needed air. No dealer and no nitrogen available. So in goes air. One of the tires was at about 20psi. Only tire holding pressure was left front. (Less than 500 miles on car)
View 19 RepliesWe took our 2008 Prius in for a check engine light. The dealership said oxygen sensor was faulty. Changed that and had them change the serpentine belt while there due to cracks in the belt. My wife filled up the car the next day ( it took 13 gallons) but gas gauge was not registering a full tank. We drove 67 miles and I decided to pull into a gas station and see how much it would take since the gas gauge was not working properly. It took over 7 gallons.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
Long story short, I had run down the HV battery in my 2001 Prius. It turned out to be a faulty wire to the ignition system of the ICE. While diagnosing, I let the HV battery drain, at least I think I did (Please see image of my HV battery specs). My question is, How can I charge the HV battery? I read Öut of Juice" but do not have the charger. My question is can I make one?
View 18 RepliesI have a 2004 Prius CVT-E with 160,000 miles. It gave me the check engine lights and after I drove it for a mile, it ran out of power and wouldn't accelerate, though it kept starting. After towing it to the dealer, they said there was a "loss of communication with ECMs and RCM junction connector for J18 for communication line due to water damaged from windshield leaking and shorting connector and junction block."
There was also water damage to the carpet and headliner assembly (it was raining that day). They said that the windshield must've been installed improperly at some point, but I don't remember ever having to replace the windshield.
So is it possible that they can tell that the windshield was different from the original, and any problems with original windshields?
I just bought my 2006 Toyota Prius about a year ago in 2009. It has been treating me LIKE GOLD !!! up to this point. About a month or two ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on along with a big red triangular warning light. I let it go for about a week hoping that it would just go away.
I brought the vehicle into my local Toyota dealership so they can diagnose it.They told me that they had 3 or 4 different "codes" coming from the machine when getting the signals from the check engine light. All the codes were related to the cooling system. They said that they felt that there was "debris" clogging the pathway for the coolant flow throughout the engine. They had recommended a "coolant flush" for the hybrid side as well as the mechanical side. So I took their advice and I had them perform the coolant flushes.
After leaving the dealership that 1st time, the check engine light came back on the next day. I called the same dealership and explained it to them. They asked me to bring it in again. SO I brought it to them a 2nd time. They diagnosed it again. They told me they came up with 2 of the SAME "codes" and 1 that was different, but ALL the codes were STILL related to the cooling system. They explained to me that something was preventing the clear flow of coolant throughout the engine. And since the thermostat was the only major obstacle, they recommended that I replace it. Well, I did. And after I left the dealership that 2nd time, I was praying that this was the last of my Prius issues! The check engine light came back on the next day.
Headlight knob: rotated to OFF
Headlight lever: LOWBEAM position
Expected Results: headlights are completely off
Actual results: headlights are completely off (OK)
Headlight knob: rotated to OFF
Headlight lever: pulled into FLASH TO PASS position
Expected Results: highbeams on until lever is released
Actual results: highbeams on until lever is released (OK)
Engine runs perfectly but "check engine" light" stays on due to faulty Emission Evap control pressure sensor (P/N; 89460-0w020). Problem is Toyota no longer makes this part and there is no after market for it. It appears I may have to "junk" a perfectly good truck.
View 9 RepliesI was wondering if this seems reasonable. I just bought a used 2008 Prius top trim package with 107,00 miles on it this last month. The first day I owned it a check engine light was triggered. The guy I bought it from hooked it up to his computer and cleared it to then try to trigger it again. This happened when I first turned on the car. I started backing and then it turned on. I didn't know what caused it as we couldn't trigger the response again. It's been a few weeks now and 1 trip to the shop for some repairs. There have been no problems what-so-ever since then and my Prius just started getting close to the 50 MPH as advertised after a tune up.
Today when I'm driving, as the seller did mention before could happen, the right headlight turned off. As he had told me before, just turning the lights off and turning them back on will get it working again. I did this and as soon as I did the check engine light came on. I go back to the night I originally had it happen and I was probably in the process of turning on my lights.
I recently purchased a used GS350 AWD.After purchasing it, I replaced all of the wheel bearing hub assemblies. The rear ones were grinding, and I decided to just do all 4 at the same time.
After swapping the hub assemblies, the slip indicator light comes on when I go 55+ mph. It's usually when I push on the accelerator. It's not always on. It goes on, then turns off for a while. Sometimes when accelerating it doesn't come on at all. When the light turns on, I loose power for a few seconds but I don't hear or feel any braking.
I have tried an alignment, reset the YAW sensor, etc. The mechanic had a very expensive snap on diagnostic computer and he said everything seems to check out. The steering angle is good, acceleration looks good.
I'm thinking that either one of the hub assemblies has a slight defect that affects the ABS sensors, my VSC computer needs replacing, or YAW sensor starting to go bad.
This morning, while backing out of my driveway, I lost reverse for about one second. It disengaged, just revved, then engaged on its own. I looked down and the "R" on the indicator next to the shifter was not shaded red. Put it into drive to go up the street and "D" was not shaded blue. I then looked up at the dash and the gear indicator up there was blank. Turned the car off and back on and everything has been fine since. 2011 GLS, 43000 miles.
View 11 RepliesMy 2004 Prius won't start for the first time in its 45,000 miles. First try only the malfunction indicator lamp went on. After a pause and a few tries later, the fuel gauge and gear indicator cluster flashed on and off while I was attempting to start (fuel indicator racing across its grid and gear indicators outlined with "dotted" lines -- tank is 1/2 full BTW).
Later tries got no response except the malfunction lamp. I tried both keys in the ignition, also checked door lock functions, and found the keys will still lock the doors, but the click is noticeably weak and the unlock function doesn't work.
I have a 2008 Prius with about 34,000 miles. While I was driving yesterday the malfunction indicator lamp came on. I returned home (was 20 miles away), but did not notice anything wrong while driving. Thanks to Priuschat, I found discussions that said to check if the gas cap was on correctly; sure enough, mine was not on tightly. I've just put the cap back on, but when I started the car, the malfunction indicator still came on. Will the warning light clear on it's own (if the problem was the gas cap).
View 3 RepliesDriving to work today, was changing from one CD to another with the steering wheel controls, when the current CD indicator started flashing and the error message "CD Error" appeared. Unlike other, similar threads I've seen, the CDs were all able to be ejected, reloaded, and ejected again, but will not play.
View 10 RepliesPassenger air bag indicator is not illuminated. I replace indicator lights. But still not work.
View 6 RepliesParked the car, when wife got back in, got the big exclamation point, SRS warning light, brake off light, airbag off light and most weird the single gas bar flashing when, in fact, I had about 3/4 of a tank. The first part of the problem was that when my keys are in the same pocket as my cell phone, there is interference, so I took the keys out, but the same alarms came on. After playing around with it for a while, including locking and unlocking doors with the remote, it finally started, everything normal, including showing gas just fine. I am original owner, so no accidents. I had just put a heavy object in the trunk, maybe it twisted some wiring? I took it out when I got home.
View 3 RepliesSecurity "Immobilization Activated" Indicator... The red indicator, car shaped with black key in the middle, that blinks when car is turned OFF and closed-up.
View 5 RepliesJust bought a R32 from a dealer. The low tire pressure indicator is on, but when I check the PSI it's good in all 4 tires. The dealer told me they let all the air out of the tires and fill them with N2 so it take awhile for the indicator to shut off. Is this true or is there something wrong with the car?
View 24 Replies