Prius (2004-09) :: Fan Speed Dropped And Horns Sound Became Dim - Fluctuating Power?
May 14, 2015
I own a 2007. The problem i noticed was that while driving, the AC. was on and suddenly the fan speed dropped and the horns sound also became dim. this was hust like experiencing a loss in power as happens when the voltage drops and the machinery slows down. This persisted for a few minutes to recover back to normal automatically.
This happened a couple of times and then the master warning light and check engine light came on. A couple of weeks back the radiator fan motor dysfunctioned and had to be replaced. I am really concerned as to what is wrong as none of the mechanics have been able to satisfy me with a diagnosis ...
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I had the cruise control set on the speed limit going up a hill. Half way up, the cruise control dropped as did my speed from 70 to 56. There were no warning lights but the battery meter was in the one bar pink range. I managed to continue up the hill at 56 mph by flooring the accelerator. When I got to the top and started to regenerate power to the battery, I regained power and speed. I am discussing a 2008 Prius with 89k miles. What the issue may be ( like battery pack declining efficiency)?
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Decided to try and swap in LED bulbs into the sub par factory headlights and since some engineer somewhere decided it would be easier for me to have to remove the grill and headlights just to change a bulb, I noticed that the dual horn set up had the horns pointing back to the truck. Even worse, right in front of all the fins on the CAC, Raidator, etc. to reduce muffle the sound.
Now I don't know how things are where you live, but generally when I honk at someone, I'm not doing it so I can hear my own horn. The general idea I thought was so that others could hear my horn.
Of course the same engineers in charge of headlight bulb swaps also figured out the wiring for the horns so you can't just loosen the nuts (10 mm) and rotate said horns 180 degrees. You can rotate the driver side horn 180 degrees and call it good, but the factory wiring won't reach the passenger side horn if you rotate it.
You can however remove both horns and use a small screwdriver to unplug the harness that joins the two horns. If you swap the horns right to left and left to right, then you can put the factory wiring back together in a manner that leaves the horn outlets pointing forward towards others.
I can't insert pics into the thread as I describe things. I used to do that but FTE seems to have gotten rid of my gallery so I can't upload to there anymore and then post photos in the thread that way. So now you get them uploaded as attachments at the end of my rambling.
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2001 ford excursion 7.3l diesel.
So I tried to go to work today but the truck said no. it started out fine then out of no where it felt as if someone slammed on the back brakes engine still revved up like normal just didn't want to go. speed dropped to 20mph then i heard a clunk. after that it was fine until it hit 20 mph again. it did the same thing again.
So I got mad at it thinking the trans went out gave it the beans and it shifts into all gears but did not feel like it had power. i did pull over and check the fluid looked a little orange. when got back in the truck i did notice the od off light blinking?? drove the truck home was shifting fine but hear this awesome sounded like a hand grenade rattling around underneath. when i got home notice fluid coming from the bell housing(out of the bottom).
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When my AC turns on or changes speed - a humming sound occurs. It only lasts for about 1 - 2 seconds.
Is this normal
It sounds similar (higher pitched, but not as loud) to the humming you hear when you turn the vehicle off.
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I have determined that I most likely have a bad CV joint - a faint clicking sound while braking that varies with speed that happens with the car in drive, but not in neutral.
I've also found instructions here on how to remove/replace the axle, but I'm wondering if it can be done without separating the tie rod end and removing the ball joint. On other cars I've managed to do this by unbolting the strut, which allowed the hub assembly to flop out enough to be able to slide the axle out of it. Is this possible on the Prius? I have to replace my struts anyway so I was hoping to do it all at once and avoid dealing with potentially frozen suspension components.
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I have an 05 Prius that I bought used. It has 59K miles on it. Recently I took it to the dealer for an oil change. They told me it didn't need an oil change, but did need an air filter. Afterwards, the mileage dropped from about 47 around town to about 42. Had the oil changed a week later, and the mileage is now about 40 around town. The dipstick when cold shows a little above the full mark.
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So I met my wife after work. I was killing some time with my son. We drove across the street, then to a neighboring shopping center. I changed the display to see the more accurate instant MPG and noticed my battery was at 2 bars. This is the first time that's happened, that I'm aware of. During normal operation, it stays at 2 bars above the halfway mark, or above.
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We picked up our 2009 prius about a month ago from a local dealer. At the time it was getting about 52 miles per gallon. Since then, we have driven about 1000 miles and now we are getting only about 41 miles per gallon. Are we doing something wrong that made the MPG drop over 10 miles per gallon.
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I have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
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I have noticed a significant (15 to 20%) drop-off in mpg in the last 6 months or so. My 2006 prius at 95,000 miles is just short of the warranty on the battery pack. I brought it into the dealership and they ran the routine computer diagnostics and said everything looks good. I fully expected them to tell me that the performance on the battery pack had fallen off, so I was a bit put out. The guy actually got a bit defensive with me when I asked him some further questions about what the criteria are for determining whether the battery back was performing as it is supposed to in order to get the maximum MPGs.
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I recently got my 2007 Prius back from the body shop after a 13k repair following a crash that crumpled my front end. The car seemed to be doing fine, until a long, steep climb had the battery drop to one bar, speed dropping to 40 despite a floored accelerator, and a red triangle that appeared briefly before disappearing just as we completed the climb. It's the dropping speed despite a floored accelerator and the warning light that have me worried.
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Today I went to the national car test (passed. but), when the car has been returned to me by the employee of national car test center I noticed one bar on the SOC. This happened for the first time.
Additional notes:
1) recently (about 4 weeks ago) I had to temporarily replace for second hand (20 bucks) 12v small auxiliary battery.
2) recently (withing last four weeks) I noticed high temperature in the boot compartment, I tried to investigate and the ducting leading from the HV battery was really hot, which means that my battery was really hot too.
I tried to explain this to myself that this might be due to HV operating at higher levels due to unknown state of the replaced 12v small aux battery (second hand product).
3) Today I noticed that technician at the test center used some spring assisted bar to press the brake on the car while he tested the car, I recon that maybe he have had powered off the car while doing so, is it possible that this might have contributed to the dropped SOC ?- it's just my guess.
I'm thinking to replace 12v aux battery to brand new battery and then test the operation of the fan and whether the temperature still rise. - is it good idea? Or should I just seek for the testing tool to determine the status of each of the modules?
If so, which testing device can handle this task? I heard from this forum about ELM obd bluetooth adapter. I use android device, would this be okay or should I look for another device perhaps scangauge?
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I used to get 55-58 MPG when my commute was 65 miles one way, 85% freeway. But these days I noticed that when AC runs hard and trips typically 16 miles, 40 MPH, mpg dropped to 42-45. That worried me a little bit.
Driving style: conservative. I start off normally, but I use N gear as soon as passing speed limit. (this factor alone should enhance mpg by 10 I guess. I used this technique on my 98' Lexus LS400, 4 Ltr V8 engine, once got 38 mpg on freeway, while the sticker says 18/25). This is the main reason I worry that something is wrong with my prius.
Typical range: 16 miles, all local.
Tire pressure: 40 psi
AC runs hard, outside temp 90 degrees, I set temp to 72 inside. (I guess this is the main reason for mpg drop, but I don't think it should drop that much)
I recently changed oil and trans oil.
My battery is a little bit weak, but no warning light. If I forget to turn off head lights, it needs jump in 10 minutes.
Mileage is 143K, 2004 model.
Water pump changed by Toyota free of charge.
Any clue? or it sounds normal and I don't need to worry about it?
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Today the flow rate of the air out of the vents on my Prius has noticeably dropped.
It makes no different which vents I select (front, feet, or windscreen).
The blower seems fine - it's still making its normal noise.
The air still blows out nice and cold, there just isn't much of it coming out, even on full blast.
I've pulled the cabin air filter and checked it's not clogged, so it seems like there must be a blockage downstream of the blower.
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My 2005 Prius started showing all the symptoms of a dead/dying hv battery this morning. The dashboard lit up, the battery fan kicked on and my mpg dropped to 35mph. I was half way to work, so I just continued. I have been checking around and I can get it replaced for about $1000.00 reconditioned, but they have a 7-10 day waiting list. The dealership wants $3500.00 minimum, and says that I should not drive it at all and have it towed. Is this true? Can I drive on gas alone until I find a solution?
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I recently purchased a 2004 Mercury Sable with about 112K miles on it. I am having some troubles with my car and I'm not sure where to start first in repairing it. I recently took my car to a mechanic because accelerating on the highway or going up hills made my car sound engine run very hard and loud, my RPMs went up to 3K and my speed dropped to 15 mph (which is a disaster when you're on the highway and hit a steep grade). My car absolutely cannot do any sort of hill so the mechanic suggested that either he or I replace one of the catalytic converters. He showed me which one he thought was throwing the error code. I replaced that catalytic converter and I thought my problems were solved because I could accelerate without difficulty.
However, a day later I tried to drive it up a hill and got the exact same response as before. RPMS jump up and the speed drops down to 15 mph and I've just about got the pedal to the floor. I have friends who repair cars as a hobby and they disagree with each other where I should go from here. One friend says replace the muffler and resonator (possible blockage that cannot bear any stress under a load...like going up a hill). Another friend says replace the third catalytic converter (one was replaced when we bought the car by the dealership, and I just replaced another one). He says when one catalytic converter goes the others are not far behind.
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2006 price with going back - rest about 105K miles on it. Recently the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with all the warning lights. Battery fan runs non-stop as soon as the car is started and if driven, the gas engine never turns off. When it happened I was circling the neighborhood looking for parking. After about 5 minutes the car dropped out of drive and wouldn't go back in until I shut down and restarted. The battery still charges, and holds a charge when left parked. What is most likely the culprit before I bring it in this afternoon? The dealer is 3.5 miles away (about 15-minute drive in Chicago). Am I risking further damage driving it in? Should I call for a tow?
Update: A check of the inverter coolant reservoir shows that coolant is flowing. Ripples on the surface.
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I have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
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My prius battery just died overnight a few weeks ago because i left the door open. I got it jump started by aaa.
The battery level has been fluctuating when im driving. It would go up and down and not stay up while driving. Generally regenerates when i brake alot. I just got it serviced at toyota and they OK'd the battery condition.
Battery fluctuating during driving. Normal or not normal? am i just paranoid?
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I was driving home tonight and stopped to get dog food. Resuming my drive home I had gone about 3 miles and my ABS light came on, the tachometer began fluctuation and the speed odometer went to zero. And the engine was losing power. Pulled over turned the lights off and turned the car off. Waited about 30 seconds and turned the car back on and everything was fine and car ran absolutely normal with no warning lights. I was about 26 degrees out.
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