I have a gen II Prius 2007 with 115,000 miles on it ...
When I use my brakes at low speeds under 15 mph, there is a bit of extra brake travel before they engage properly ...
My husband and I put a new master cylinder in this vehicle recently. We bled the system but there is still excessive pedal travel. We tried bleeding the system again and had the same results. There are no apparent leaks in the brake system.
View 10 RepliesIs this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
New to me 2002 F-250 PSD, done brakes all the way around for piece of mind.
Job went very well, replaced one caliper and its bracket, serviced all pins and replaced one set of pins as well, (different corner). Bled brakes all day via gravity, watching reservoir and filling as needed as to flush in new fluid. Truck is in great shape. Mileage 153,000 no rust, turned all rotors just to re-surface.
Now here is what's happened, my pedal is good but it pulses in the first 1/2 inch of travel and once passed that no pulse, got under and watched the pedal rod do this as I very easily touched it in that first 1/2 inch of travel, you don't even begin to get much brake started here if any! Truck running; yes-Truck not running no pulse action occurs.
I'll add this: fluid removed had a green tint to it but had no moisture or bad odor. Different fluid??? I didn't know. Used Dot 3 Off the shelf O'Reilly's.
Hydro-booster didn't like fluid? Air? Master cylinder? No leaks before or after this procedure.
I have an 06 f150 xlt 4wd 5.4. I bought the truck about two months ago and have come to realize that my 4wd is not working. The light works and you can hear the clunk but recently we got alot of rain and i was going down a georgia clay dirt road and almost got stuck in the middle of the road. i tried 4hi and 4lo but only the rear wheels would spin. I had my wife put it in 4wd while i looked under the truck and the half shafts do turn in 4wd. which doesn't make any sense to me. I also unplugged to vacuum line from the intake and capped it off to try and let the hubs engage that way but still nothing. why would the half shafts be turning but no power to the front wheels in 4wd? does that mean the iwe's are stuck engaged? Which would explain why they turn all the time. But if they are engaged, whether they are stuck or vacuum leak or whatever the reason, shouldn't the front wheels be getting power.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
View 2 RepliesPicked up an 02 Accent with 97K for local use. The brake pedal went down half way before engaging and hardening. Front brakes were good. Rear shoes were worn and had a leaking wheel cylinder on the right side. Changed the shoes and both wheel cylinders. Bled the rear brakes with the engine off by pumping the pedal slowly and opening the bleed to make sure I got no air in. Pedal got hard just off the top and the shoes hold the brake drum tight.
Now, turn the engine on and the pedal goes all the way down before it grabs and gets hard. I was going to bleed again with the engine on to see if that makes any difference. Can't see that it's the master cylinder and the car has no abs.
My brake pedal needs to be practically be pushed to the floor for the car to stop. I went to a Munro Muffler and they replaced all brake pads and turned the rotors. The problem of the pedal to the floor did not go away. The Munro tech struggled with this then popped me with this estimate - brake lines master cylinder to ABS / brake lines ABS to front brake flex hoses connections, / brake lines - ABS to rear junctions fittings at the passenger front door. Also they want to sell me a rear wheel bearing because the temperature at one point was very high. The total estimate is $840. I can remove the Rear wheel bearing to bring the estimate down to 500. I asked if we could do lines from ABS to Master Cylinder only and the tech advised against it. I feel like I am about to get ripped off and am going for a second opinion.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is.
As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless. That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. On pedal depression the inverse is true. As modern hydraulic clutches are self-adjusting, this once-necessary extra distance is pointless.
(I would rather clutch with my ankle than my whole leg. If I could cut the pedal travel in half (or more), I would like that very much.) Is this possible? How would I do such a thing?
My friend has a prius and had her brake pedal sawed off modification. Funny cause she says that her foot is always slipping off the brakes now. It was always a bogus fix, to fix nothing caused by errant drivers.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2008 Prius. Had to do an 'emergency' stop. Put my foot on the brake pedal REAL hard and the car slowed way down, but not down enough. Munched the front end. Now remembering back, I didn't feel any 'chattering' from the ABS brakes. It seems like I got regen braking but never switched to the hydraulic brakes. Is that possible? Did I experience a braking failure? Or do Prius just take a lot longer to stop? I did a test stop in the rental car I have now (not a Prius or hybrid), and it gives me the ABS chatter as I would expect, with a short stopping distance.
View 5 RepliesI've been noticing that my battery is almost always fully charged or close to it. Then I noticed that when I 'should' be getting assist from the MG2 and not charging the battery, i'm not getting the assist I would assume I should be getting. Seems like most of the energy is getting put back into the battery instead of assisting the MG2
Notice how the arrow is going to the battery from the MG2 (ELECMOTR) and not vice versa. This is majority of the time. Getting less of this also. hince - MPGs are down also.
I have another small issue with my 2004 Prius. I just noticed yesterday that the second I very lightly depress the brake pedal, a little clicking sound is made down below. It sounds like it might be coming from the brake pedal itself or somewhere underneath the hood. It's only when I depress the pedal slightly and it makes pretty much the same sound when I release the pedal. I just had a 5000 mile service done to the car and there were no issues then.
View 14 RepliesI was going down the highway at 70mph and came up to a toll booth when the brake pedal went to the floor and the car wouldn't stop. I hit the pedal hard and the car stopped in a very jerky manner as if the abs was initiated. I looked at the dash and the ABS, (!), and brake lights were illuminated. I turned the car off and then on again and the lights were off and the brakes worked normally again.
The Toyota dealer in CT said the weak battery was causing an under-voltage at the stroke sensor and replaced the battery. They told me if I lost my brakes again (!) I should bring it back for a new stroke sensor. In hindsight, I should have just told them to go ahead and replace the sensor. Two days later, driving down Florida route 301 in the rain, a stoplight went from yellow to red in about 3 seconds so I hit the pedal hard. The back brakes immediately locked up, the front wheels kept rolling, the car swerved and slid through the red light intersection sideways.
I counter steered and slid between two cars at the other red light, on the wrong side of the road as I straightened out. The car swerved and slid sideways again in the other direction and then spun around so I finally wound up in the correct lane, and I drove off like nothing happened. I was doing maybe 35-40 at the time and it's a miracle no one got hurt. Again I look down and see the lights illuminated. I cycled the power switch as before, and again the problem went away.
About an hour later the problem came back and this time no amount of power cycling will clear it. Basically what I'm understanding now is that it's the regenerative side that doesn't work with the bad sensor. The hydraulics kick in at around the last 10% of the pedal so the car will still stop, but I have to floor the pedal and that makes the car think your trying to lock up the wheels so it initiates the ABS system which makes stopping jerky and unpredictable. BEWARE the stoke sensor!!! What a dangerous design!! The dealer has the car now...
I can press on the brake pedal when car is off or on and there is a kind of quirky sound made. I can hear a pump sound and then a squeaking or quirky sound. It happens every time I press the pedal when it is stopped, either on or off.
View 2 Replies2005 with 110K miles. Had oil change about 2K miles ago, tires rotated about 1K miles ago. I was at a stop light when I felt a little movement in the brake pedal and the lights all came on. Brakes continued to work, but somewhat harder to push the pedal. When first applying the brakes, there was a very slight wandering of the car, which was easy to correct.
I drove the car home and turned it off. About an hour later I started it and the problem was gone. I took it to an independent garage the next day. Their scan tool found C1357 -- decrease pressure solenoid fault -- but could not go further into sub codes. They recommended that I take it to dealer.
I've a UK 2004 gen ii with 69000 miles on the clock. When coming to a stop and also when at a stand still if I press down the brake pedal I get a rather loud creaking sort of noise. I guess that's friction brake related as no noise with using brakes when driving. Also a high pitch squeal when driving and turning steering wheel slightly to the left that stops when you press the brake pedal.
View 19 Replies2005 Prius, 50K. Newly purchased two weeks ago. Last night, driving into my garage with the ICE off, noticed a noticeable electric or electronic-sounding hum from the engine compartment. With the hood up and looking toward the engine from the front of the car, noise comes from the right side of the engine compartment, to the right of the inverter cover.
The noise, a loud hum, appears when pressing the Power button and the brake pedal. It also appears when pressing the Power button twice without pressing the brake pedal. When starting up the car, the hum lowers in pitch significantly (though not in volume) as soon as the Park button is pressed.
When I bought the car, I brought it in to the dealership for a complete checkup. They replaced the inverter coolant pump under the recall notice. Don't know if that's significant. I opened the coolant reservoir cap last night with the motor on, and noticed movement inside, so it appears to be working fine.
A few days ago, while on a road trip from CA to CO, I noticed a loud squeak from the engine compartment every time I pushed the brake pedal, no matter how lightly, no matter what speed. It even happened when the car was off. I have almost 60K miles on my '05.
When I arrived in Denver, I dropped the car off at a Toyota dealer for troubleshooting. They isolated the fault to a bad ABS actuator. They had to overnight the part, and spent a day and a half installing it. Sounds like a major project!
The switch for the parking brake pedal light self loosened (a known issue with this switch) over the past six months and today it finally fell off the pedal assembly. The only way I can see to do the repair is to remove the three fasteners that attach the parking brake pedal assembly to the dash and drop the pedal to the floor to refasten the switch. It appears to be possible; however, there are lots of stuff around the assembly that might get in the way of dropping the assembly so I raised the white flag and called it a day.
View 2 Replies2003 - I tried to change the brake fluid with a MityVac. I've done it to dozens of cars with no problem. With the Prius it didn't take it well as I have to pump the pedal sometimes to stop or the pedal goes way down. Only now I read about how a special Toyota scan tool is recommended to do it. Is there any other way? I only really did the front brakes since after trying one rear wheel cylinder and getting nothing out of it, I quit. The dealer wants $165 and I'm sure that doesn't include any extra shop fees and such they tack on. What other way can I try before taking it in?
View 8 Replies