Prius (2004-09) :: Error Code 1121 After Hybrid Water Pump Replaced
Feb 29, 2012
I had my hybrid water pump replaced (free, under recall) about a month ago. Now the check engine light comes on intermittently, and it's with error code 1121 (Coolant flow control valve sensor stuck). I've seen other people on this forum hypothesize that the work could cause this error (if not bled properly, leaving air in the system). But my dealer said the work had nothing to do with this error and I need to replace the control valve. How to suggest to my dealer that it could, in fact, be due to their work and that I think they should fix it for free?
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Actually 2 very similar questions about my Prius 2007.
1. My water pump was replaced by a dealer due to failure some half a year ago at 95,000 miles. Yesterday, after oil change (98,000), I was told it is recommended to replace engine coolant. Does this sound right? Don't they change coolant when replacing the pump?!
2. Identical question about HV pump. It was replaced at 80,000. Now they recommend do change the coolant for hybrid system. Don't they have to do it when replacing the pump?
I want to do everything necessary to maintain the car. But don't want to spend money for something that is not needed.
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On my 05 Prius (65K miles) I recently had my local Toyota dealer replace both the inverter water pump (for free per recall) and main engine water pump (~$500 based on their recommendation because of some coolant leakage). 1 week later, I got the P1121 code coming off and on intermittently.
My dealer says that the work they did is not related to P1121.
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So got this P0A93 code when I was driving on the highway about 65mph, scared to me death when big yellow warning light came on so I returned home and turn the car back on after 30 mins the code and all the warning lights were gone I checked under the hood felt the pump everything was good. I just got done 90k maintance on the car from dealer. So my question is that could be computer error or it could be water pump malfunction? On warranty manual the warranty for inverter with converter covers under 100k so dealer should be able to cover the water pump if it's broken? I driven the car today again at normal temperature and full blast AC on, then again no engine check light on and warning light no message.
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Toyota dealer said computer indicated the water pump and belt needed replacing. We decided to do the replacement ourself. Now the light comes on which indicates car is running hot. We did replace the coolant. The 2005 Toyota Prius never ran hot before the replacement, What did we do wrong?
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I have had a 2007 prius for about a year now. Great little car. Today the warning light, and VSC light came on. Then the ABS light and the car would no longer go into gear. We had a diagnostic and the two codes that came up were 1121 and 1116.
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I have read all the posts pertaining to this code, replaced my coolant flow valve, bled all the air out of the coolant system and still am getting the cel with the 1121 code.
I have tried setting multiple coolant flow valve positions, checked all wiring in harness, coolant level is full in rad and reservoir, checked temp sensor at bottom of storage tank, checked pump operation at top of tank to attempt to clear this code to no avail.
Is there a default position the valve is to be in before cold start up?
Is there anything else that can trigger this code? What am I missing?
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I have 2005 Prius with 300k miles. I started throwing P0A80 code. I removed the battery and checked all the modules and found 2 of low voltage, ordered them from Ebay and replaced them. I placed the battery back in the car and started the car but got P0A80 code again. I purchased the grid charger from Hybrid Automotive and connected it according to their instructions for 24 hours. I drove a car but got the red triangle again and P0A80 code again. I removed the battery again and tested the voltage of all the modules and these are the readings:
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Got a check engine light with a P2601 error code this morning - Coolant Pump Control Circuit Range/Performance.
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Had the Check Hybrid System and master warning light come on today. Took it to the dealer, who, after a couple hours, told me that my "Hybrid Water Pump" needed to be replaced.
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2002 Prius with 94K gave me today P3130, after I tested the Inverter Water Pump I found out that it bad but until I go to the dealer in order to buy the part $147 he was closed. the question is can I drive with the car like this bac home (65 miles) and if I turn on the A/C the Engine will work all the time right? And also after replacing the Inverter Water Pump how can i tell if the problem solved?
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So from the beginning the car wasn't coming on. It gave me error "p" said my parking break was not working properly and needed to be on a flat surface in order to work. We jumped it and replaced the battery shortly after that. The car will turn on but the actual engine is not turning on. The display screen has a little car with a red exclamation going through it. The dashboard also has all the lights on. We have tried to jump it from the relay at this point but it wont start now to where before it would.
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My husband just replaced the spark plugs in my 2005 prius with 174,000 miles (also replaced the right headlamp bulb). When I started the car, the PROBLEM check engine light Hybrid Warning Light came on.
Owner's manual says take it to the Toyota dealer. The dealer is 50 miles away. Is it safe to drive it the 50 miles? It drove okay up and down my driveway.
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I just had my hybrid battery replaced this weekend for the 2nd time in my 06. Drove it home, was about a hour drive and everything is going good. Well go to drove it this morning and check engine light is on. It has anything to do with hybrid battery chance?
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I just replaced the timing chain and water pump on my 1999 K1500 5.7L. After spending several evenings and a few early mornings working on it, I get everything back together and go to start it up. It starts then immediately dies. After double checking that the CKP sensor, two plugs on breather, and a/c and alternator wires (these are all that I unplugged) are connected I try in one more time before coming in to work today.
Timing chain was installed with No. 1 at TDC and mark on cam at 12 o'clock position as stated in the Haynes manual for the truck. I did not remove or even touch the distributor since replacing the intake gaskets ~3 years ago. Will check to see if any codes are showing in the morning when I have my laptop at home.
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My brother has a '92 K1500 5.7L in which he had a leaking water pump. He replaced it with an Autozone unit. After replacing the pump, he now states he is experiencing fluctuating temperatures on the gauge. He has little heat at the heater, even after letting the truck idle and after driving it. This was not a problem prior to replacing the water pump. He has put approximately 200 miles on since the replacement and it has been about 2 weeks since he replaced it. He believes he has all the air out of the system, as he has checked the overflow container and radiator several times and the coolant level has not gone down.
This now "suddenly" appears after the pump replacement, we are thinking it is not the temperature gauge sensor or bad thermostat. We are thinking possibly still air in the system or water pump cavitation.
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Four cylinder, 2004 Camry (2AZ-Fe), Auto with 98,000 miles.
I had to replace my water pump after driving with newly replaced Toyota Red antifreeze from the 8 year old Pink. I drove only two weeks and 1000 miles on it.
I believe that was just a coincidence. Some Camry's water pumps do not last even that long. Even if the coolant was not compatible with Toyota specification, it still could not destroy the pump seals in two weeks.
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I went to the workshop of Toyota in Iraq to repair the car. But do not have engineers repairing Prius cars. And they examine the device to detect faults only... These numbers faults
(P0A0F)Engine failed to start.
(P261C)water pump.
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My girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
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I just took the car to the dealer, for a recurring Check Engine light, and after changing the gas cover 2 months ago, now they tell me that it needs to replace the Charcoal Canister pump . I have a 2008 Prius, bought used 18 months ago, with approx. 70k miles
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I have a 2008 Camry SE with about 118K miles
I have replaced the Water pump and the temp sensor recently.
The problem is when you turn the thermostat control to hot on the HVAC dial only warm air blows and it is only warm when the engine is revved or going down the road.
My question is: Is the door on these electronically controlled or vacuum controlled? it is like the blend door gets stuck and is not closing fully or something.
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