Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Turning Off And On Frequently
Dec 29, 2015
I understand the engine turns on and off frequently (coming to a stop it turns off, then when going it turns on). I have noticed that sometimes when at the stop it will turn off, then immediately back on, and off again, even with my foot on the break.
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I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later.
Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
Worth mentioning that I've noticed condensation build up on the inside of the headlamp occasionally, and one time both lights flickered and then went out, but that hasn't happened since.
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The first part of diagnosis is to understand how frequently this happens and hopefully find any reproducible patterns. This is an open poll running to the end of October.
ZVW30 - 1.8L Prius...
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I have a 2009 prius with 85k miles on it, bought it two weeks ago, right off the bat I noticed that the left headlight, while driving, will frequently go out. It comes back on when I turn the headlights off and on again, and goes out again later. Sometimes it stays on, other times it goes right out. I took the headlamp off, disconnected all wires, and cleaned it of any corrosion that was found and reconnected it, and the light still went out. What would be causing this/ what a fix is non mechanic oriented?
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I used to get great MPG's in the beginning (>57 MPG in summer) that deteriorated as the engine started to run longer and more frequently after what I suspected to be a faint bump against a garage wall in the front. This was several months ago. I have since been averaging about 47 MPG overall (averaging winter, summer out). I forgot about the bump incident until last week when the engine suddenly started running shorter and less frequently. This lasted for a week or so, with no significant changes in the weather/temperature. And then inexplicably, it has started to run longer and more frequently again. By "more frequently", I mean when I bring ICE on, it doesn't easily quit, regardless of my prodding it to quit by going into regen momentarily. Also, the initial warmup is longer.
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I have a 2004 Prius with about 50K miles. It is driven every day. I recently noticed that the motor doesn't shut off as frequently as it used to when I stop at a light. It then also shows the battery as almost empty (1 bar) on the touch screen. Gas mileage also seems to be a little lower than it used to be. Other than that the car drives fine. Could this be an indication of the battery starting to go?
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During the last week, or slightly less I suddenly started hearing the brake boost pump running much more frequently than normal in my 2008 and is also producing a "knocking" noise along with its run noise which increases in frequency as the pump speed increases. No problems with the engine coolant pump for the thermos, and the inverter pump was replaced yesterday along with a replaced "bolt" in the steering column for the recall.
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I have noticed that recently my engine seems to be coming on when I accelerate from a stand still even with very slow acceleration.
For example today: battery over 50%, foot off break and onto gas very gentally, 0 to 10 in about 4 seconds at about 8 mph I feel the engine kick in.
Over the last few days it has seemed like the engine has been running a lot in town or when moving slowly in heavy traffic.
If I press the ev button I can accelerate quiete aggressively before the engine will start.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius. When I press the brake pedal and press the start button the engine does not start or the wheels are not powered by the battery. It gives me the following errors:
The indicator in the Start button lights in Amber Color.
0 kmph mark is not activated in the dash board pannel.
When I shift the gears it only shifts to neutral ("N") gear.
I cant move the car forward or backward. An error message is displayed in the MFD in Japanese language. It is in Japanese and I cant read the error message.
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I've had the car a little over a month. First 1000 miles were smooth (55mpg), but I have noticed that the ICE kicks in a lot more frequently now. I might be driving it incorrectly, but I've noticed my mpgs drop to under 50 for the last 800 miles driving the same commute. For an extreme example of the revving: I go to the store. Get out of the car for as little as 10 minutes after the car has been driven 15 miles or so — and even though the battery is more than half way charged, the ICE kicks once I start moving from my spot.
Even if I'm just moving from one part of the parking lot to another going less than 10 mph. When I let off the gas, the ICE continues to run even after I come to a stop.
Now I know it's getting colder (highs in the lower 50s these days), so I expect this in the morning after it sits out all night. But I don't remember this happening when I first got it (granted, it was warmer in mid Sept here).
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I have a 2004 5.4 and the A/C cycles on and off too frequently making it take too long to cool the cab. Had A/C service done this weekend and initially I thought it worked, but now a few days later, it still cycles on and off. Is this a simple relay or switch somewhere?
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My wife just purchased a 2011 ES 350 w/20k miles from a off lease dealership on Monday. On Tuesday the check engine light came on. She quickly called the dealer. He told her that the check engine light coming on is very common. She has an appointment Tuesday morning to check it out. Would like to know if any other 2011 ES 350 owners have had the check engine light frequently come on.
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I have been noticing a more frequent failure in my XM radio. I sucked up the extra $2000 for the GPS and use the XM radio every day, but lately, the radio cuts in and out or does not come on at all. I have to restart the car and then it will come back. The FM and AM don't fail but the XM is failing more and more frequently. My problem is it will be very hard to recreate since it only does it every once in a while.
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My Santa Fe 2004 V6 2.7L 97K recently downshifts and revs up while I'm driving. It happened about a week ago once or twice. I thought I was stepping on the gas too aggressively. But last 2-3 days it came back and more frequently to a point that I'm afraid to take it to the highway.
I checked the transmission oil, it looks pink and full. What problem am I potentially looking at? Would it be cheap to fix? Do Hyundai dealers cover it under the 10-year/100K mile warranty thing?
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Only have driven 2900 miles and engine frequently misses when it slows from 40 mph down to 35 mph. After a test drive dealer told me that car is handling normally. Can't be true. I consistently get a "lagging" feeling whenever I slow down from 40 plus mph to 35. My foot remains on the accelerator with just a slight decrease in foot pressure. I'm returning to dealer next week and I don't know what I will do if they tell me the vehicle is acting normal.
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I have noticed that when I open the door to the driver's side after the car has been sitting overnight that the pump noise is longer than half a year ago when i bought it used. It used to last for max. 3 or so seconds, and now it takes 5-10s - depends. I can get into car and almost get it into ready and then it ends.
Also, every second or third time i press the brake (normal, like when stopping gently) i can hear the sound of the pump for around 2 seconds. I don't remember that happening before so is this or isn't normal?
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Recently, we had to change the 12V auxiliary battery on our 2010 Prius IV. Everything went smoothly and the entire procedure took less than 20 minutes. We thought everything was good, until we turned on the radio.
Since we changed the 12V battery, the FM radio (which is part of the NAV console) has great difficulty keeping any station tuned. Before changing the 12V battery, we could drive around and listen to our favorite FM radio stations; now, the radio frequently loses reception, and our music frequently gets interrupted with static.
It's been a couple months, and the situation has not improved. We took a look at the antenna, and nothing looks out of the ordinary. It seem odd that changing a 12V aux battery would cause this problem, but we have not made any other changes (not even an oil change) for several months.
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I bought a new Prius PIP 2012 ten months ago. I park it in the Airport parking lot a day or two when I am out of town. And this is the 3rd time my car is completely discharged.
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My 05 was running rough and misfiring quite frequently. After much deliberation, I took it in for a diagnostic hookup. The dealer said my driver side cat was clogged. Lucky for me, I was just under the warranty period(79673 miles). I have had it replaced and I can feel a noticeable difference in the way it runs. Could a clogged cat have made it run that poorly or am is it just in my head that it is running alot better?
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Charging system failure light comes on about once a week, then the ABS & traction control lights are coming on and I can feel a vibration from the pedal and a humming noise! Replaced the sensors which fixed it or so I thought. It started doing it again. What is causing this & is this a common problem?
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So I have a 95 Legacy sedan, FWD. It's been a kind of problematic car, and the engine was replaced about 5 years ago (I assume with an old unit, but I'm not sure though because though I was in the family I wasn't driving it then). But, it's held up and has continued to be at least roadworthy. But recently, it's developed an issue where the engine will just randomly die while I'm on the road. All/most of the dash indicator lights come on, but if I shift it into neutral and turn the key, it'll come right back up. Occasionally it'll die again almost immediately, but usually it'll be fine for at least a while. And anecdotally, It seems to happen more frequently at lower revs such as idling at a red light (though will occasionally happen while I'm moving), and when the engine is cold - generally once I've driven around for a while, it's not a problem anymore.
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