Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Straining / Lost Power And Poor MPG
Dec 22, 2014
Basically, about 3 weeks ago I noticed some problems with my 04 Prius. It has 72k miles on the clock. The exhaust was making a farting sound. I have since diagnosed this as a hole in the back box which I promptly replaced. But the real problem is the power.
When driving in electric mode, the car runs as normal. But when I press down on the gas just a little more to the point where the ICE kicks in, it doesn't give as much power as it used to. For example, in electric mode, cruising at 30mph and achieving 99.9mpg, I'd press the pedal down about half an inch. Where this used to kick the ICE in and show 60mpg+ (with the engine charging the battery and providing power to the wheels), it now shows about 30mpg. When I press the pedal a further half inch, it would normally show 35-45mpg, but now reads 16-25mpg. And when its fully depressed, it used to show 12-16mpg but now barely hits double figures and averages about 6.7mpg. Even on highways when I've achieved 60mph and gently ease off the pedal to maintain speed or really slowly increase, I used to achieve 60-70mpg but now I'd be lucky if it makes it to 40.
I also noticed that it produces considerably less pulling power than it used to. Almost as if the engine is really struggling, even when gently pressing the pedal and accelerating from 30mph upwards. This is having a large effect on my overall fuel consumption. I get so scared that I'm wasting too much fuel that I drive really conservatively now.
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199k on my prius. I'm driving 65 mph and bam! All warning lights come on, PROBLEM, comes up on the mfd, and the mfd had a funky little broken cat symbol light in the top left corner.
I lose engine power and coast to a stop. As I'm coasting the speed display stops showing my speed... even though the rest of the gouges are lit on the display. While parked I realize I have very little 12v battery juice....
With a jumper pack on the front terminals I get the cat home. I ser on the display the my hv battery is stuck at one bar.
At home I charge the 12v battery and get the hv battery fully charged by holding the gas down in drive with foot on the brake. My Toyota mechanic told me to do that. All warning lights go away. I leave a jumper pack on the battery in the rear and take for another test drive. Car is better but still sluggish... Try to get it up to 50 mph and bam! again all warning lights return.
So I get the car to toyota dealer and and my guy reads the codes and tells me every ecu is showing codes abs recommends 12v battery replacement. He clears the codes. So I buy a brand new battery and after installing it all warning lights return on test ride. Car won't do over 50 mph and is def still a mess.....
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Our 2006 Prius (175,000 miles) has recently suffered intermittent periods of diminished ICE power. For instance, for about 1 hour recently driving a hilly section of I-81 through eastern TN, the car was struggling to maintain 68 mph and the HV battery stayed mostly drained at 1-3 bars. Gas mileage was falling, but no misfire. After stopping at a rest area, it was fine. No OBD codes and ICE seems OK otherwise. Experienced a similar reduction in ICE power a few days later. Dealer has no clue. Similar experience I've had with another car was when it's catalytic converter became plugged, but that was not intermittent.
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I have a 04 f350 6.0 with about 195xxx miles on it. The other day my truck started acting up. It starts and idles without a problem and drives fine till the engine gets to operating temp once there I cannot accelerate quickly like getting onto the highway to get up to speed it just the motor just goes quiet and won't accelerate. It usually does this a little after 2000 rpm. I can let off the throttle and slowly get to speed as long as I don't go past 2000 rpm. No check engine light was not on scanned it and got p0611 for the ficm. I tested the ficm and it read 48v with key on. While truck was running I got 46.xx v then Started to climb to almost 48v. The truck was warm but not at operating temp where the problems starts(didn't have time to let it warm up all the way) could these symptoms be the ficm still? What else should I test?
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I have 2005 Prius with 110k. Yesterday, red triangle and check engine light came on and I lost power while driving...SCARY. Took it by dealership. They called this am and said it needed a new HV-ECU and that would cost $800. The error codes they gave me were P0A78 and P0A94. Anything else I should ask them to look at? I'm wondering if the HV ECU is something I could buy used and install myself? I'm not a mechanic but am comfortable with most DIY projects.
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So am i the only 200,000 miles prius owner on here? I have an 05 toyota prius, purchased with 44 miles on it. I now have 218k miles. All I've replaced was an o2 sensor and a few other minor things. But it died last thursday, had it towed to my house, still don't know the extent of the issues. I had the following codes P1116, P1121, P3193. I was driving on the interstate and all the warning lights came on and i lost power as i got over. Jumps would only allow me to turn my lights on and dashboard, but the engine doesn't start.
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My Prius is 07 with 146k in southern California, for two days every morning I took a short trip to a store then when driving back home the prius battery lost bars fast and I lost power with all sorts of warning lights. Then I drive off with no problems for the entire day. I disconnected the aux battery and that reset the Error codes, I checked the inverter pump and works properly, I checked the aux battery and shows 12v when off and 13.9v -14v when on. This happens every morning so I suspect it's the aux battery. 3months ago my dash lights went out and rebooted the car with no problems.
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I have a 2008 Prius with about 95,000 miles. It is bloody cold here. About 4 degrees F when I got up. On the way to work, on the parkway, suddenly the car lost power entirely. Just started to slow down. No reaction when I pressed on the gas pedal. I didn't notice any warning lights. I flipped the gear shift to Drive, and the car accelerated again. About five minutes later, this repeated. For the rest of the trip it was fine, and there were no problems coming home. (Temperatures were still way below freezing in the afternoon when I left work though the car had been sitting in the sun. I don't know if this could be cold-related, but it's never happened before and it hasn't been this cold here for days on end before._
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I have an 05 F150. Last week engine started running rough, check light was flashing. Engine lost power and got more erratic. Had it towed to Ford dealer, Dickson TN. Dealer says "#2 injector has suck open and flooded the Cylinder and bent the C-Rod." Ok have put in another 5.4(not at Dealership) hummm new engine runs the same as the one that came out. Had A different Dealer check this engine they tell me the right bank is not making compression cam has jumped time.
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I have a 2008 that has always been dependable. 1 mo or so ago when driving, lost all power. Had it towed to Toyota and they replaced main fuse. 2 weeks later, would not start. Replaced 12 v battery. 2 weeks later, won't start again. Towed to Toyota again. (300 for the two tows, 225 for battery, 350 for fuse) and Toyota said working fine. No failure and they didn't find anything. No error codes. I need car for work and can't keep getting stranded and needing tows.
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I have a 2001 prius jap import. On a trip it beeped and up came the triangle, check engine light and car with !. The car lost all power and the engine stalled when I pulled over. I plugged in my obd2 scanner and no codes except 3000. Took it to our local toyota dealer who confirmed that code. Had the battery swapped out and still it does the same except now no codes. The car has below normal pickup speed and I can hear the engine rev a little but it does not seem to make any difference. Seems all the power comes from the battery. It will stall when all the error lights come on.
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My 2008 Prius (111,000 miles) had all the panel alarm lights go on and lost power while I was driving on the freeway. After turning off the vehicle and letting it “rest” for 10 minutes, it restarted with only the red triangle alert light remaining on and was able to drive to my dealer service (about 40 miles) with no incident. The diagnostic code indicates that the inverter has failed, but the technicians are not able to confirm that this is the problem, since the system is now running. I was able to drive it home with no problems or warning lights. As this is a $4,000 part, I would like to know if this is a likely, or even possible, scenario for an inverter failing, or could it be another problem? Note: 3 months ago the auxiliary battery was replaced following the same circumstances.
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I went for a drive in my new truck and hadn't put the pedal down until now. its really cold here (5f, or -15c). Anyways so i waited for the engine to get warm and then i put my foot down until i got to about 100km (60 mph). Everything was fine, I was on a gravel road so i turned around and did it again, this time i totally lost power once i hit around 60kmh. the check engine light flashed a few times, i tried again, same thing, this time the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I eased off the gas a bit, then came to a full stop a little ways down the road. I tried again and this time i had full power, though i didn't take it to 100kms because there were icy patches all over the road and the truck went a little sidways. The check engine light was off, and i tried one more time after that and got up to 100 and everything was fine and the check engine light never came back.
I'm worried, my first real truck here, what happened?? Also when i stopped the truck i had a listen to the engine, everything seemed normal, but I've noticed before there seems to be a clacking sound almost, not sure if this is normal with a 5.4? I had a 2.2 litre sonoma before this so I'm new to all this.
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I've been having some trouble with engine hesitation after driving for 15-20 minutes and poor MPG on my 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L. I've been slowly running through some tests as I learn how to diagnose car troubles. I just ran a voltage test on my 4 O2 sensors using a bluetooth scan tool and the Torque Pro app. I ran the tests at idle after warming up the engine. To me, the upstream sensors seem fine but downstream sensors are not behaving like they should. Aren't the downstream sensors supposed to be relatively flat around .45 volts while the upstream sensors fluctuate steadily between .1 and .9?
B1S1:
B1S2:
B2S1:
B2S2:
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New thread so this info can actually be found. Like most of you, I was irritated and embarrassed the first time I tried to top off my tank at a busy station, then had a quart of fuel pour back out onto the ground before I could get the cap back on. I did a simple fix that worked forever after. I always get a full fill, never have fuel burp.
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Our 2010 Prius just had the brake booster recall done and I also installed new pads and rotors. The car now has issues with the front brakes dragging excessively causing lack of power and poor fuel economy. There are no codes and everything else checks out okay, the brakes function fine. Is there anything on these cars that would cause brake drag after a new brake install? I just want to ensure there isn't something I can do before I bring it to the Toyota dealer.
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So on my way home today I lost all power, the engine shut of and i coasted to side of the road. Went to try and start, nothing. When key is in the crank position the gauges were jumping all over the place, also accompanied by a lot of clicking from behind the dash. Nothing happened when tried to crank. No power to windows or even emergency flashers.
So i get it towed home, and of course it turns over. But this only lasts about ten seconds, then dies. I could do that a few times and then back to no power at all. Even at times with the keys out of ignition it will still click and make a lot of noise.
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My uncle bought an '05 that stopped running one day. He was driving down the road and engine lost power. He was able to coast into his driveway. Unfortunately, it's been 10 years since I've work on a 6.0 and no longer have any of my computers.
He did state there is no check engine light. He's going to change the filters today / tomorrow. I'm hoping to make it down there this weekend to look at it, but what to look for. Even more unfortunately, we really don't have any specialty tools or gauges.
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While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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I have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
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