Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Shuts Off But MFD Stays On - Cluster Dead
Jan 12, 2013
Cluster dead. Held power button for 3 seconds. Engine shuts off but MFD stays on and green power stays on too. I've tried holding the power button for 20+ seconds. I can restart the car normally and and the engine starts up. Holding the power button for 3+ seconds turns the engine back off, but not completely. When I walk away from the car, it complains I'm leaving with the key and beeps at me. It's still powered on in my garage.
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2001 Jetta 1.8t... Recently made a change in the engine head because in broke the timing belt and had to do valves etc., the car was without power(battery disconnected almost a month), now when it start, a light(symbol orange)comes in the cluster and the engine shuts off, what is causing this problem.
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I have 228,000 miles on my wonderful GX 470. Love it!! Very Few Problems. My Airbag Light on the Cluster stays ON sometimes and sometimes is OFF. There is no consistency. I will be driving and the light will come ON and stays ON. And then, it will stay OFF for few drives. Why the light would sometimes come ON?
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My service engine light on my 99 s10 comes on like every other week. Stays on for a couple of days, then shuts off. My truck is running fine, so is it really necessary to take it to my mechanic to get checked out?
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I have a problem with my gauges. Sometimes my RPM gauge works, and sometimes it doesn't.
When I approach the car and open the door, I hear a weird noise coming from the gauge cluster (or a nearby area). When I start the car, none of my gauges work, and you can see the temperature, speed, and fuel gauges flickering. After about 10 or 15 seconds all gauges fire up, except for the RPM gauge.
The flickering does not always occur, but my RPM gauge is dead most of the time. It works once in a while in the morning when I start the car, but once I shut down the car and start it again, I loose my RPM gauge the rest of the day.
I think the noise I hear behind the cluster or inside the steering wheel area has something to do with this problem because the cluster problem arouse when I started hearing the noise.
I managed to put the problem on video, and you may see it here. If you focus your attention on the fuel and temperature gauges right after I start the car, you will see the flickering. You will then see the needles jump to their correct readings about 15 seconds after the car starts, but as you can see the RPM gauge is dead.
YouTube : [URL] .....
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Problems my truck seems to be having for one thing sometimes when I'm going thru the gears (6 speed manual) the truck won't wind up all the way it's like it is rev limiting at about 2000 RPMS, been doing that for a while , it does that most of the time but not always. Problem #2 the anti lock lite stays on in the cluster, and just yesterday the service engine soon lite is now on, my truck is a 1999 F250 7.3 6speed manual with 77000 miles on it ...
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This morning I realized that there is a pattern to our Prius incidents. What Sarah experienced last week is the same that Amy experienced when she drove the car the first day we bought it.
1. January: Amy had driven 20 highway miles with no problem. Park for 10 minutes. Started and crossed to the median of a two-lane Highway. stopped to wait. When tried to go, nothing. Will not move. 10 minutes later tried again and car worked fine for a long time after that.
1a. The car still had the original auxiliary battery. tested and found 12V battery weak. Replaced original battery with Duracell AGM vented battery for Prius. Car drove fine for weeks after this.
2. May: car sat all day. Turn on. Drove across parking lot. then noticed red triangle, VSC, brake warning lights all on. Lots of codes including high-voltage battery, transmission, and others.
3. drove fine for one week. Then going 60 miles per hour up a slight hill. heard the internal combustion engine shutdown. Red triangle, VSC, brake warning light came on. Reduced or no power steering or brakes. Coasted off the road. After 10 minutes, it drove fine again.
3a. I cleaned high voltage battery cooling fan. Drove fine for 10 days.
4. June: Sarah drove 10 minutes. Drove to stop sign. Had to wait 5 minutes for lots of traffic. When ready to pull out, push the accelerator, internal combustion engine shut down and the car would not move. Would not go into reverse. Put in neutral, and enough slope to roll backward to side of road. waited a few minutes, and it drove fine again.
Codes WERE P0A0F engine failed to start and c1300 anti-lock brake. the same codes were thrown in the previous incident. Noticed engine coolant a little low and added more.
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Today when I got home I put my 2007 Prius in Park and the engine shut off. Why this happened?
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I've been noticing on the 2006 I've purchased recently with 120k miles now, the MFD would show the ICE engine no longer is on and proving power when I cruise to a stop. However when I'm actually stopped, I noticed the ICE engine is still on, about 5 seconds after I make the complete stop, I then notice the ICE engine shut down. Although there are no DTCs on the car, this seems to baffle me on why it's happening. The mpg average on the car is lower than my other cars, it can be anywhere from low 40s to about 45mpg on the MFD. What could be causing this?
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I went out in the 9 degree temp this morning to start my car and take off for work. I sat down and hit the power button and some console lights came on. The gear lights were blinking with a square light around each letter (P, D, R, B...) and the pips on the fuel gauge were blinking, beeping during each blink. Also, the green light on the power button was blinking and the little light showing that the key was not in the car was also on but the key was beside me. I turned it off to try it again.
Before I turned it back on, I inserted the key in the slot and hit the power button again and just the Check Engine light came on and everything else was black. There was a slow tempo click-click-click-click... sound coming from under the hood and the Check Engine light was just sitting there. I tried to turn the car off but the power button was not doing anything. All I could do is let the Check Engine light stay on and the click-click-click-click... sound chirp away. I went back out in a couple hours and the battery was dead.
Just seeing if that might mean something specific before I go drop about $200 on a new 12v battery later today.
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Friend broke down. Car would start, but would die. Mechanic told him the cluster is bad, and the car thinks it's stolen. He said it's not the ECU.
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have a 2000 golf TDI 5 SPD Manuel. Was driving into work today and I got on the gas a bit and all the sudden the battery light comes on I hear the beep dash noise and my guage cluster shuts off. I pull into work. Car seems to be running fine.. All belts intact. battery brand new. Car starts and operates fine. At idle dash works. But when I tap the accelerator pedal that's when dash shuts off and battery light comes on. Bizarre. I checked a few fuses not exactly sure which one would be bad but. I didn't see any popped ones. I did notice that my top cluster of fuses all the connecting points are browning but fuses are good. So I am not sure if it was already like that....
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My dad has a 97 f150 ext cab and the gauges are dead.... What would cause this? I've checked the faq but didn't see anything.
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2006 Azera air bag light stays on all the time in the speedo cluster panel when I start the car. Is it a fuse problem, sensor problem etc? Is it covered under the recent recall?
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So I recently bought a 2002 volvo s60 base sedan with a dead instrument cluster. I sent it out to be repaired and when I got it back and plugged it in, it did not work. At first I thought it was the company who repaired who messed up, but I looked up the numbers on the cluster and it is out of a 2001 Volvo. I have no way of contacting the previous owner to find out if they tried swapping out the cluster with one from the junkyard, or if they have the original cluster.
I don't know what to do because I cant send the cluster back to the company since I don't know if its the original one or not. Is there any way I can find out what the original numbers are on my cluster. Is there any way to find out the original numbers on the cluster using my vin number? I called the volvo dealer and all they gave me was the part number for a new cluster.
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I don't have any lights or gauges working at all. The sonata car picture comes up when I get in but once the car is started this goes away too. Headlights and interior lamp is about the only thing working on the car. 2013 Hyundai Sonata?
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Is there one fuse for the entire instrument cluster? Because today the entire instrument cluster went dead, even the digital odometer part. Hoping it is just a simple blown fuse...
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I have a 2001 1.8t Passat that won't start. The story starts about 6 months ago with occasionally (maybe once a week) finding the clock and trip odometer reset. Figured It would eventually get better or worse. Then once last week I lost power to the instruments completely when driving, The tach and speedometer dropped to zero and returned to normal in a second. Yesterday on the way to work that happened again several times, but it never effected the drive-ability at all. After work , went to leave and the dash doesn't light up and is dead silent when turning the key even the clock and odometer are blank ,the Traction control light is the only response on the cluser. It won't crank, the power windows and sunroof also won't work. Most everything else is normal, blower motor, headlights and interior lights, blinkers, door locks, all work, radio powers on.
Here's what I've done so far. Removed the negative battery cable to see if a reset would work. No change. Checked every fuse I could find, no bad fuses. Replaced the Ignition switch, no change. Have 12.05 V on the red starter wire in the crank position. After replacing the ignition switch, the radio now displays SAFE --- 0001 and doesn't do anything else (not sure if that means anything). I have reseated all the relays under the hood, and under the dash. No change. Wiggled every part of the wiring harness I could get access to to see if that changed anything. No change.
I'm now expecting the solution to be the wiring to the CCM, the instrument cluster, or the CCM itself. Going to try push starting it tomorrow, If that fails I'll have it towed home and get back to taking things apart Friday night.
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So, on my drive home from the pub tonight, my clusters went dead, then came back on, then died again. This behavior repeated for the 5 mile drive home. In addition, I believe the lights weren't working as well. The engine was still running, so I simply continued on home and parked for the night. The only thing I can think of might be the problem is the fact that I replaced the serpentine belt the day before yesterday. Is it possible that the alternator is not charging the battery properly and that is what my problem is?
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My problem is similar to that of coyote54 back in 05. I have a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport. Instrument Cluster is dead, Information lights on top of dash are dead, Turn signals and Hazard lamps are not working. Found Hazard Lamp fuse to be blown. Replaced fuse and blows immediately indicating a short. Haynes describes a Turn Signal/Hazard Lamp and Daytime Running Light Module located on the junction block but there is no such animal that I can find. One of the responses to coyote54 described a Hazard relay located within the steering column........again, I do not see anything on the column that resembles a relay. Is there a hazard flasher/relay on the 2001 GC.
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I have some check engine lights. And there is one light on my monitor screen in the top left. That one is a hybrid system warning light I think. I'm sure I need to connect it to something to read the codes.
It is running fine, but the engine doesn't seem to shut off and mpg in city is kind a like a normal car, and I think the battery drains too fast. No matter how slow I take off it won't use the electric motor alone. I wonder if that is the battery causing engine to have to stay on.
It keeps cycling off and on charging the battery, but engine never shuts off.
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