Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Shakes A Little Before It Stops - Code 171
Aug 25, 2011
My Prius works great. It is a 2007 model with 42 000 miles in a perfect condition. However, the "Check engine" light is on. Well, when the engine is still cold, it runs fast and, sometimes, before it stops, it shakes a little.
My mechanic noticed a 171 code issue. From Toyota, they recommended to change the trottle body. That's what we did, but the light was soon back. We checked all the connections : they seem ok.
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I have 02 GT 3.8L with 130k on it. When I accelerate it shakes extremely bad and when I let off the gas it stops. Is that a broken or worn CV joint or something else. And if it is should I replace both sides?
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So I was driving my husbands car the other day -it is a 2010 Ford Escape. He'd just had it in for the 75000 mile service and he'd had an oil leak and some sort of casing replaced to take care of that - and I stopped at a stop sign, turned the corner and 30 yards down the road, the gas peddle did nothing. I putted my way to the side of the road and the thing started shaking and all the lights were on on the dash. I put it in park and it still shook. Shut it off - exhaled deeply and turned the key in the ignition - nothing - but a distant sort of thugh,thugh,thugh,thugh with the wrench light on on the dash. Tried again and it started - and drove. Got home fine. My husband had the exact same thing happen to him, when he took it out so he took it back to the shop - they drove it for about 100 miles and couldn't get it to do anything like we described. They ran all sort of diagnostics and said they can't find anything wrong with the car.
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I have run into a bit of a dilemma with my recently purchased 2010 Camry SE.
Whenever I shift into reverse, the car jerks or shakes for a moment. The engine light is also on.
Before, when I put the car into reverse,there'd also be a knock sound along with a vibration, but the engine light was never on.
Now today, when I put the car in reverse, the vibration/shake/jerk is VERY noticeable and the car almost rocks back and forth for a brief second when this happens and the Engine light stays on.
note that this only happens when I put the car into reverse.
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I have got the most aggravating electrical gremlin possible. For over a year now, the truck intermittently just dies. Mostly it happens about 2-3 mins after start (every couple weeks or so), then takes a couple of key offs, then back ons to restart. But it does restart and then runs fine for a time.... 2 weeks ago I was rollin' down the road and hit a pothole, and whammo, she died, and wouldn't restart. I thought, "great it was the intertia cut-off going bad." I had it towed to the shop where they did some diagnosis and told me it threw a PO231 code.
The tech then said he was doing the diagnostic manual directed test, and swapped out the fuel pump relay, and it started right up. New relay, out the door. A few days later on the way to work about 2 - 3 minutes after start, she dies again. I hang my head, say a curse word, and key it a couple times, and it starts back up and runs fine. Presently speaking she's back at the shop, but the owner, who's a straight up dude was loath to take her back, because it was running fine at the time.... I've got to figure this thing out before I drive it off a cliff.
Truck -- 2001 7700 XLT 5.4L 88K miles
Symptoms -- Random interval engine stops with short delay to restart, 1 hard bump engine stop with no restart. PO231 code (after the hard bump no restart). Didn't check it previously (wasn't aware there were "soft" codes).
Troubleshooting to date -- 1 new fuel pump, 1 new fuel pump relay.
Only things left are the inertia cut-off switch (which apparently don't go bad that often), and the wiring itself/connections to the different components....
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My '07 shakes when braking below 7 mph. Coming to a complete stop is never perfectly smooth unless medium to hard braking is required. My thought was that the MG2 is in creep mode even while my foot is lightly on the brake pedal, causing the jerking, but creep works properly while not braking.
The shaking is very steady, at about 6 Hz, the same frequency as the "popping" noise one hears when stopped at the light with the foot lightly on the brake; just enough to keep the car from creeping, but not mashed far enough to turn off the creep current from the battery. I take it there's two sensors on the pedal as well as a potentiometer. Could the problem be mitigated if the creep current were cut off at the presence of a foot rather than having to press harder? There is no shaking on a harder stop, only the slow ones.
Another thought I had was that the pressure pump itself is supplying the brake pressure to the friction pads, causing the pulsing. In a previous thread, we discussed why my pump was coming on so often. Perhaps a leak in the canister causing the pressure not to be buffered, and the pump itself providing the pressure.
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I have 2008 Prius with 80K and I will try my best to give all the information that I can. The past few days during about 10-15 MPH driving, my car started to shake a little bit when I try to accelerate. It doesn't want to go no more than 5-10 MPH and I feel like I was driving on the small bumps. It went away after 10 seconds. Again, I can't duplicate the issue. It happend only twice.
Could this be related to 12 V battery issue, tires issues, transmission, fuel injection, spark plugs?
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Finally got my first check engine light at 108k miles. Pulled my codes with an OBD reader from Oreilley auto parts.
P1117 is Coolant temperature sensor circuit, low for coolant heat storage system.
Coolant heat storage tank outlet temperature sensor.
Short in temperature sensor circuit
ECM
I just wanted to make sure I had the right piece before I buy it. I did check the levels of my coolant and they are perfect, so I'm sure the sensor must be bad. I believe it'll just be a water temp sensor. I just want to make sure it's this, and not some random sensor I'm missing.
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So I changed my spark plugs, due to an error code saying p0301 which means cylinder one misfiring. I reset the engine light disconnecting the negative battery terminal. Once it reset it ran rough for a few miles. I put about 50 miles on it and it seems better.
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we have a Prius from 2004.
We have had problems with the starter battery. This is because the car is so rarely driven. So to fix this I have charged the battery several times. But have not disconnected the battery cables before. I don't know if thats the reason why we have problems though. But you can suspect that.
One morning when we should drive the car we saw that the "check engine light" came up on the dashboard. And other warnings also.
I bought an OBD scanner and hooked it up. P3030..
So I took the hybrid battery out of the car and cleaned all poles and connections. I measured each battery cell to approx 7,6 V.
I also bought a new starter battery. Now, I have put all together again. But P3030 is still the case.
Is it possible to measure the voltages from the busbar module by measure on the contact to the ECU? I have tried that but don't get stable results. The voltages goes up and down all time..
My last hope is that a wire between battery busbar and ECU is broken. But I couldn't recognize that when I had the battery out of the car.
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I've been searching a way to read my check engine code WITHOUT a scanner (scan gauge etc...). I have a 2008 Prius and given that there is a lot of things that we CAN program just by presets, it would be surprising if there wasn't a way to read the error codes by some keypresses. Heck, in reality there should be a page on the MFD that just shows the error in english.
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My check engine light came on with a p1116 on my 2008 with 138k. I replaced the sensor, but the p1116 came back. How to fix. I'm going to replace the coolant today, I read somewhere there might be a clog.
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I had a check engine light and code 0420, which after researching I decided to replace the cat with an aftermarket - Magnaflow 99205HM. Spent some time driving around today and the light is back on!
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About once a week my check engine light comes on. The code is P1121, which is about coolant valve sticking. In about one or one and a half days it times out and i dont get the warning light for another week or so. Do you think I should have something done right away or wait and see what happens?
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I was driving when the engine light came on. I always carry my OBD II reader in case this happens. Upon reading the code it gave a reading of PA080. Since I have a spare battery at home and have fixed 3 others for friends and family I was not to worried.
I arrived home and took out the battery to measure the voltages. To my surprise all voltages were good. I figure maybe it was corrosion so i tool the module bus harnesses and cleaned both the copper pieces and screws. After reinstalling all i took it out for a drive and after 20 minutes the check engine light came on. Bummer!
Went back home and disconnected the original HV battery and installed the spare HV battery and took the vehicle for a ride. All seemed good when the engine light came on again after 20 min. Removed that battery and all voltages were also good.
Troubleshooting began first by checking the 12V battery with an ohmmeter and it read 12.4 volts. Thinking this was good I jumped at checking the HV
battery including switching the CPU to no avail. In the process I left the HV battery disconnected which gave me codes indicating loss of communication with CPU scaring me even more.
Finally decided to take a break and look around on here and google when I found a better way to test for a week 12V battery. This test required me to let the car sit, turn lights on and press power button twice. If I got a red triangle and message indicating that the transmission sensor was in an abnormal state a weak 12v battery was to blame. So i went put to the car and tried it to my surprise I got the red triangle with transmission message.
So I went to OReilly and got a 12V battery for $170. Came home installed it and took Prius out for a drive. After 30 minutes no Check Engine Light. So far all good. I drove it to work and back home without an issue. This car has 141k miles and 12V battery was approx 5 years old.
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Here is my situation. I have a 2004 Hyundai Elentra. When I turn the wheel to the right or left 75% of the time the engine moves and there is a grinding or clunking noise. It only happens when the car is in drive or reverse and the brake pedal is pressed down. So it starts that shaking when the wheel hits the 10 or 2 spot on the wheel. It doesn't happen with it is in park. The other day I slammed on the breaks at a stop and burned rubber. I also hit a curb on the right that day.
I had a suspension guy I know take a quick look and he says there is a lot of engine movement and thinks I should try changing the torque mount whatever that is. He thinks when I slammed on the breaks it moved the engine. But why would it grind when the break is pressed and the wheel is turned? does this sound like a mount issue or like a break issue? The back breaks have a squeak but that was happening before this happened. Online everyone talks about cv joints and how dangerous it is to drive on bad ones. Starting a new job this week and want to make sure it will make the drive and that it doesn't sound like a cv joint or something serious.
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Shown on a Corolla, but would work even better on a Prius because of the way the engine starts and stops while driving.
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Well I did it, moved Prius out of garage to drive, working on other car when Prius engine starts up runs a bit then stops. You should have seen the look on my wife's face, she just kept looking a me for a reason it would do that. We are still learning a lot about the Prius and she thought it may be normal. I started to tell her some high tech lie but decided to fess up and admit I had forgot to push the off button.
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The 2008 Prius I have when it comes to a stoplight all of a sudden the car shakes. And then of course it sounds like a Chets off. Now over the years I have not really paid a whole lot attention to this but in the last year so it seems like a car has shaken more as it turns off at the red light what do you think.
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Starts right up, runs fine. No CEL. No warning. No symptoms. It just stops running. It may or may not start right back up, but when it does start back it runs as fine as it was running before it quit.
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This is my new Prius C's engine warming up in the morning. The engine shakes once when starting up and I seems to be able to detect a slight knocking sound.
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