Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Misfire On High Acceleration?
Jan 25, 2015
Motor started to misfire while out on grocery run. scanner said mifire on #1 so I bought a coil and plug. car ran well for a day then same thing on # 2.. repeat.. then # 3 repeat so did #4.
Now it did it again on #3. I switched the coil #2 and #3 to see if scanner would show if it followed the new #3 coil but so far no code. The misfire is on light acceleration, push down hard and it does not miss. Today I will try some fuel injector cleaner.. Is this the trail I should be following ?
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My new to me 04 4.6 shuddered and misfired really bad last week, got couple misfire codes. I changed plugs which were really bad, like burnt out to .080, got a HEI ignition tester and got a healthy spark from all the coil packs. Drove it today and ran much better but still would shudder under acceleration when cold, wasn't as bad when warmed up but still noticeable. I thought if I got a spark with the tester that means the coil is ok? or is that not the last word in coil health. Or should I look somewhere else like injectors ? Haven't got any codes since plug change.
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I took my 2008, 56k in for a new battery after my car sat outside in negative degree temps for a few days. After doing that repair, the dealer recommended a new serpentine belt. Ever since that service appointment, the car is making a high-pitched "woo-wooo" noise during acceleration. It's definitely a noise I've never heard before. I took it back to the dealer two days later; he had the service guy drive it and they both claim the noise is normal and just due to the cold. Is it the belt? Is it the cold? Am I losing my mind?
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Driving around town it doesn't happen too often. Like if I am starting from a stop it feels fine but when going up a hill or passing on the highway it bucks and shakes and doesn't want to go over 3000 rpm. Also, the check engine light is on and it flashes when it's really bad. I took apart the intake and didn't see anything weird. I am about to take it in to see what the code says because it's been getting worse.
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I drove a hybrid prius for the second time ever this past Sunday and drove a whole 22 miles on open roads. This is earmarked to be the parts car, but I believe is actually in better shape than the principal car. Regardless, I'm trying to ensure the motor will be suitable for swapping into main car when needed prior to me pulling it out so I'm tinkering/driving it this next week.
The engine has a misfire, and I suspect that is the reason for the flashing orange check engine light. But what I'm not used to is that the light goes off and doesn't stay illuminated. The light comes on and flashes when any significant demand is placed on the engine-- when I nurse the throttle pedal, I can hear the engine running (I think) and there's no miss. But when I give it throttle the engine starts to miss and the CEL starts to flash. When I slow back down, the engine stops missing and the light goes off.
1) How/why the CEL flashes but then turns off?
The only background I have on this car (2008 at 225K miles) is it was taken out of service with the following writeup:
P0300 Random misfire, 0301 Misfire #1, Po302 Misfire #2 and P0101 Mass Air Flow Stored in ECM. Intermittently car only runs on 2 cyls. Suspect problem with intake due to the fact there is a recall for newer vehicles with the same condition. #1 spark plug continually getting wet with oil. Possible valve guides or ring issue allowing oil in to combustion chamber. To correct engine replacement or rebuild will be necessary.
2) What is this maf recall and might that issue apply to this 2008?
Truthfully, I only need the car to function for ~ 400 miles on a racetrack. I've been reading about the pcv valve replacement and MAF sensor cleaning. I'm considering venting the pcv line into a catch can or into the exhaust stream (to reintroduce a vacuum to the crankcase) and plugging the opening in the throttle body so there's no chance the throttle body is sucking in crankcase oil that's fouling the plugs.
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I have an 01, early model, AWD Passat wagon, v6, GLX and when I accelerate from a standstill or a slower speed, the car hesitates slightly and coughs(?) and then catches on and accelerate. It doesn't actually backfire or misfire.
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So, my 2004 with its constant tick is now "Missing", but only under moderate acceleration, between 1k and 2k rpms. i.e., : When in OD and wanting to gain a few MPH, but not drop down a gear. I have noticed it in OD and in 3rd. Feels like the engine stops for a split second, several times.
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I have noticed that recently my engine seems to be coming on when I accelerate from a stand still even with very slow acceleration.
For example today: battery over 50%, foot off break and onto gas very gentally, 0 to 10 in about 4 seconds at about 8 mph I feel the engine kick in.
Over the last few days it has seemed like the engine has been running a lot in town or when moving slowly in heavy traffic.
If I press the ev button I can accelerate quiete aggressively before the engine will start.
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I bought my 2008 Prius 9-14 with 29,000 miles on it. (rebuilt title-big mistake I now know). I found out after I bought it that it had sat for 5 years before it was rebuilt) I figured it was a miracle the hybrid battery even worked.
I had no problems until 2-4-15 when check engine light was flashing and the car was shaking. The local mechanic said was the “clutch” (torque converter), took the engine and transmission out of the car to fix it ($2200). But he realized the mass air flow sensor (MAP) was not working even after he put a new one in so had me take the car to the Toyota dealer. The dealer found a cut in the engine harness and advised me to replace the harness which he said would cost $2800. The local mechanic saw the cut via my cell phone photo and offered to fix it for free which he did.
The next day check engine light comes on after driven 25 miles with code PO 301. (means misfires in cylinder one). The local mechanic switches cylinder 1 with 4, same code the next day, local mechanic switches the coils to the cylinders, still the next day the same code. He switched the fuel injectors. Same problem of cylinder 1 misfire. He cleaned the oil out of the intake manifold, did fuel injection cleaning, and cleaned gunk out of the fuel line. Car would drive good about 20 miles then same check engine light, same code, sometimes code PO300 (random multiple misfires).
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2006 ford f150... Mine started out as a misfire problem which I first changed the plugs. I followed the Ford TSB and got all 8 plugs out with no problems. Still misfiring and setting a code for bank 1 catalytic converter inefficiency bank 1. By the way bank 1 is passenger side. After changing bank 2 because the guy at Advance auto said bank 1 was drivers side. Still setting misfire codes and for bank 1 cat. ineff.
So after installing new coil packs and 2 injectors, Still misfiring #3 and #1 and cat. ineff. bank 1. Decided to buy my own code reader, which is a must if you are going to try to work on these new vehicles. Decided to unplug o2 sensor to see where bank 1 really was. Thats when I found out bank 1 was indeed passengers side. Changed o2 sensors. Still misfiring. Decided to buy the true bank 1 cat converter.
Dropped old bank 1 cat and found all of the internal workings all broke up and clogging converter. Truck runs like new. I spent 178.00 for bank 1 converter at pep boys. After spending O approx. 600 in other parts that didnt fix it. I think the spark plugs not being changed until 115000 miles caused the converter to go bad. Buy a code reader and it makes it a whole lot easier to diagnose your problem yourself. and save a whole lot of money throwing new parts at it.
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I have a 2007 Prius with 136,500 miles on it. Love this car. Getting 53.3mpg currently. A while ago I started noticing a strange sound coming from the passenger side of the car where the engine is. Recently the sound has become more pronounced and it has me stumped. The noise occurs upon acceleration, but not all of the time. If the battery is at 2 purple bars and I accelerate, the noise is very noticeable. But once I get to cruise speed it goes away. Again, this is sometimes and not all the time. Hopefully it's nothing, but I figured I would post this incase something is on the verge of failing so I may catch it in time.
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At 89,000 miles I replaced my plugs with autzone autolites and also replaced my fuel filter. Shortly there after the truck started to shutter and shake while miss firing giving a 0307 code. After checking that plug and replacing it, moving the COPs across the engine from each other the miss firing continued under the 0307 code. The miss firing mostly occurred when I was around 50 MPH, under slight strain with a little acceleration. If I powered through it most of the time it would clear out. Occasionally it was bad enough to where I had to pull over.
I trouble shot this for about a month before it got more consistent and worse. I took it to the shop where they tested the compression on the cylinder and also tested each coil. All check out OK. They recommended I replace all plugs with motorcrafts and the boots on the coils. In the process of doing that I discovered a loose plug in the #2 cylinder. I pulled it out and found that it was scorched and the metal was slightly tweaked at the tip. Not sure how it got loose or how it got burned, but figured that I found the problem. All plugs and boots replaced!
Two days later more miss firing. This time with a 0305 code. Occurs again on a grade at around 50 MPH with slight acceleration. I pulled that plug and the plug in the cylinder where the loose plug was found. Nothing seemed to be wrong. The plugs seemed a little brown where I put anti seize on but that I figured was normal. I then moved coils again. The miss fire continued and the code did not move. There is still a rough idle and occasional humming coming from the engine.
Is the loose burnt plug a separate issue or is there something causing all the miss fires that backed my plug out. I'm lost on my next step to take. Im getting married in two weeks so needless to say spending more and more money on this issue let alone time is making things so stressful. Besides the fact that I think my engine going to blow up on me every time it miss fires bad.
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Some days ago while I was driving, the check engine, red triangle and vsc lights came on and immediately my car slowed down. It would take longer to accelerate and every once in a while upon getting to a stop sign, it would take long to get to 5 from 0. could this be my hybrid battery going out? My regular scanner can't pull up any codes on a prius.
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i have been hearing a rattling noise coming from the engine under acceleration only. It isn't a super consistent rattle, seems to only happen when accelerating from lower speeds. And sometimes you don't hear and other times you do. It's not a bad rattle or knock it's more of a ticking/light rattling sound that is definitely abnormal.
I know my brake accumulator is barking at me and the 3 way coolant valve is going bad as sometimes I get a constant pumping sound. I don't think these have anything to do with it but thought I'd mention it.
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I'm getting oil and fuel into the intake manifold every couple hundred miles. Oil level is in the middle of low and full mark. It's not like it's a huge amount of oil and fuel in the intake but it's enough to make the car misfire, bog out. Only codes I'm getting are misfire codes for all cylinder and reduce engine power code (forgot what code it actually is) but that's when the car completely shuts down and won't start with red triangle light. If I clean the intake out and unplug the battery for a few min I'm able to start the car again, but it will run really rough and white smoke will start to come out the exhaust (gas smell). I'm wondering if a bad maf would cause this. I've already cleaned it but still doing same thing. Don't really know what the specs or reading the bad is suppose to be so I'm kinda stuck to determined if I need a maf or not. Cars got about 242K miles.
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2005 Ford F150 lariat 5.4
I had a misfire under a bit of a load (acceleration) and up hills. I changed spark plus with OEM Motor craft ones, truck ran super nice for a couple week.
Had the engine light flash, slow down and the RPM go up a tiny bit then back down and the light goes off
Now I'm back to miss fire different location, and a rough idle. I've swapped coil packs around and the miss fire stayed on cylinder 4.
Spark plug screwed or injector or ?????
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I need to diagnose an issue I've had with my 2007 Prius with 79,000 miles on it. Several months ago I noticed a distinctive whining/humming noise coming somewhere from the engine compartment of the car while driving. The noise may be present at lower speeds, but the volume of the noise appears to increase proportionately with my acceleration and as such is most noticeable at highway speeds of 50 - 70 miles per hour. As I accelerate faster, the noise level seems to increase. If I take my foot off the gas and coast, decreasing speed, the whining noise gets lower in volume. I believe I first noticed this noise about 6 months ago, but wasn't more proactive about it like I normally would be because at first the noise didn't seem overly loud and my extended warranty unfortunately was up once I hit 77,000 miles. Now 6 months after I first noticed the noise, I believe it's definitely louder than it was when I first heard it, so much so that I can pick it out over the radio being on at a decent volume.
After checking some forums I thought the culprit might be a wheel bearing. I took it into a local Midas shop at they informed me that my passenger-side front wheel bearing was actually breaking apart in pieces. Obviously I had that wheel bearing replaced but I was also hoping this was the source of the whining noise. Unfortunately that wasn't the case as driving it home the noise was still present. They also said the tires were not balanced properly (from my Toyota Dealership no less when I had them install new tires) so I had the tires rebalanced as well. They did take the car for a test drive but probably stop looking for issues with the car as soon as they saw the wheel bearing in that condition. Also that shop does not specialize in Prius' or hybrids so they might not be able to notice the noise that shouldn't be there like I can.
Other than wheel bearings, where this noise could be coming from. Some posts on here possibly pointed to the ICE water pump or transaxle fluid (which as far as I know has never been replaced since I bought the car new).
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I have a 2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC that I'm having a persistent problem of cylinder 3 misfire. I've changed plugs with Motorcraft plugs set to the proper gap, put on new wires and have checked the resistance across the ignition module, both primary and secondary without change. I doubt that the problem could be the ignition control module as only cylinder 3 is affected. I have Auto Enginuity that I use to read the codes, attempt a repair and then clear the codes only to have P0303 appear again. Obviously the engine stumbles and has poor acceleration.
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My 2009 Prius is overheating at times. I have a Scan Gauge connected and it normally shows an engine temp of 181-182 f. Rarely approaches 200. At times, it will go as high as 250 which brings on the red triangle and gong sound. If I start out cold (don't shut off the car during the trip), it will run perfectly for the entire time. Doesn't matter what the outside temp or whether running AC.
If I stop for a couple mins and turn off the engine, then restart, it will misbehave and run all over the temp spectrum. I took it on a 1000 mi drive to Seattle in July. On the way there, I didn't notice any problems but it was rainy, cool and didn't run the AC much.
Coming back was a different story. If I let it sit (powered off) for 15-20 mins or so, it will hold the correct temp. It's just when it sits (powered off) for brief periods (less than 10 mins) that it will act up. Another clue is that it cools going up hill and gets hotter going down. That seems contrary to the usual and only does that when acting up.
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I've noticed the last few days that my Prius seems to be dropping MPGs horridly (even worse than the typical winter drop). The engine will idle hard and loud when stopped sometimes or when braking even. I noticed this morning, when I am braking to a stop, the MPGs are registering at 75 or below and it's running when idling and it seems to be running the gas engine more. It will sometimes shut off at a stop light, but hardly at all the last few days regardless of if it's been running 5 minutes or over an hour.
I thought maybe it was because it's cold-- we've dipped to single digits, but have been above 30 or so the last week or two and has only happened in the past two or three days. It happens at start up and at the end of my hour long commute to work. I've turned off the defrost and heat and it still does this.
She's a 2005 and has just over 105,000 miles. I just had her oil changed, a fuel injection cleaning and spark plugs replaced two days ago and had the inverter serviced and recommended transmission work done at 100,000 miles. Her water pump was replaced in the last year with the recall. I just replaced the air filter. There are no warning lights, so I"m not sure if anything would show up with the codes. I'm worried because it did not do this previously, and started to as soon as I got the car back from the injector cleanings and plug work...
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I have an 06 with 105000 miles. Since about 95000, I've been starting to get what sounds like a fuel knock with medium-high load on the engine. Thought it was carbon at first, but a few applications of Techron didn't clear it. Higher octane does seem to solve it.
Do the knock sensors go bad on a Prius? What's the proper way to diagnose the knock sensor on a Prius? (can't exactly bang on the block with a wrench at idle and listen for fuel adjustments on a car that doesn't idle).
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