Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Knocks In Summer Under Heavy Load


Jun 14, 2015

I am the original owner of a 2006 Prius with 265k miles. I use Mobil 5-30 synthetic oil and I drive a steep hill every day and the engine knocks in the summer afternoons when I use cheap 87 Octane gasoline from Safeway or Costco. If I use better 87 octane gasoline (Chevron, Shell) generally there is less knocking. Also during the winter months no knocking even with cheap gasoline.

During summer I can sometimes make the knocking go away by accelerating or decelerating. The knocking is intermittent and generally occurs only during the steepest parts of the commute. The engine might knock for 30 seconds to 60 seconds before its goes away as I try to change the engine RPM.

Unfortunately I am burning some oil at a rate of approximately half a quart every 5k miles. Generally I watch the oil level, but there have been cases where the oil level has fallen below the lowest mark on the dip stick so I suspect I have some carbon build up.

I've read posts where others have used additives like gumout regane and I've read posts that say not to use additives.

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Santa Fe (CM - 2007-12) :: Vibration As Engine Is Under Heavy Load When AC Or Air On

Question about my 2012 Hyundai Santa Fe SE. The car has 25,000 miles on it, and just recently like in the last 1,000 miles I have notice when I use the AC, or even the air without the AC the engine reacts very poorly like it is under extremely heavy load. The car shakes and vibrates.

I completely understand that in AC mode, the compressor kicks in, but this to me seems excessive. The car vibrates and the idle drops substantially. AC on is worse that no AC.

In addition, idle or under 35 is worse that HWY driving. The vibration is so pronounced that I sometimes wont turn the AC or air on as the vehicle feels like it is going to rip itself apart.

This is something new and never vibrated this much before the 25,000 miles. Anything I should look into or have the Hyundai Dealer look into? What I may be over looking? Would more stout battery work?

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Silverado :: P0307 - Check Engine Light Comes On When Going Up Hills / Under Heavy Load

I have a 2001 chevy silverado 3500 6L gasoline engine.

I have been getting a P0307 random multiple misfire #7 on and off for a few months now, occasionally the P0300. Check engine light comes on when I am going up hills, often under heavy load and sometimes when the truck is cold in the morning and the truck starts to run rough until the code clears, which it does pretty quickly usually. I have replaced coil, crank sensor, cam sensor, fuel injectors. If I unplug the battery overnight the code will be cleared and the truck will be running just fine the next day.

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Touareg :: Loud Metallic Rattling Sound Under Moderate To Heavy Engine Load When Cold

Problem description: A loud metallic rattling sound from under the car under moderate to heavy engine load, only when engine/exhaust is/are cold. It is noticeable from within the cabin with the windows rolled up and the sunroof closed. Crack a window or the sunroof and it's pretty loud. The first time I heard I, I thought "this is not good".

This is not an octane ping or valve train noise. It sounds like a coffee can with marbles being shaken in concert which what might be the rapping of a V8 engine's exhaust. I had a Sunbeam Tiger that rapped in the upper rpm ranges and this reminded me of that but instead of rapping, it shakes a can with marbles.

There has been much discussion and speculation as to what causes this. It does seem to occur only with late - 04 and up V8 Touaregs with the "sport" exhaust that replaced the "std"(?) exhaust used on the majority of the 04s.

Observation: I looked very closely at the heat shields, looking for ways they could rattle. On the passenger side (LHD), the heat shield has three main sections:

- Front: around/near the secondary cat (tightly secured)
- Rear: around/near the rear differential (tightly secured)
- Middle: between the two mentioned above (loosely secured)

The three sections overlap a little where they meet. It was very easy to tap on the middle shield and make a loud metallic sound. I put my finger between the two shields (where they meet) to isolate the two metal pieces and tapped again, and the noise was gone.

Theory: The harmonic resonance of the exhaust under load vibrates the middle heat shield and it rattles against the front and/or rear shields. As the shields heat up, they flex enough to provide clearance between each other and the noise goes away. This may be unique to the "sport" exhaust if (and I am only speculating) the heat shields were changed (in design or fitment) when they changed the exhaust.

Experiment: I tried a very simple experiment. I slightly bent the edges of the middle shield (~1/2 inch) where it was coming in contact with the front and rear shields. The allowed me to tap rather hard on any of the shields without them rattling against each other.

Result: I make the tweaks to the shields Sunday night. When I drove to work this morning, I put the transmission in sport mode and ran WOT until it shifted. Normally, I would have heard the sound (very loudly) but it was gone. No metallic sound. Not completely convinced, I repeated the experiment on the way home and, again, the sound was gone.

Summary: It was cool out when I was going to, and from, work (64F) and this would normally be the perfect set up for making the sound. I think that tweaking the heat shield has solved the noise on my Touareg. I am tempted to go back under there and pop-rivet a little brace between the shields so that they cannot rattle against each other again. On the other hand, I may just leave it be and do the pop-rivets if the noise comes back.

Anyway, I was excited to find a potential solution for my Touareg and wanted to share it will you all. I will post back after a while and report how it goes in the long term. Lastly, I really liked being able to put the air suspension in xtra-offroad and get under the car (easily) without using a jack....

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: V8 - Engine Knocks At Idle?

As stated I have a 2008 F150XLT 5.4 V8. Recently it has started making a knocking noise and very rough idle when warm. It only does it when the truck has been driven slowly or typically when going through a drive through. It sounds like a rod knock but putting it in neutral and revving the engine makes it go away for a while.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Rattling Under Heavy Stress

My 2006 Prius with 243,000 miles has an engine rattle under stress. When accelerating quickly or climbing a really steep hill it will rattle. I think it sounds like a chain. If I ease of the gas pedal, the rattle stops. Is this normal? Does this sound like a timing chain issue?

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 2006 5.4L Engine Knocks Real Bad After Gets Hot

Engine seems to knock real bad after engine gets hot like its out of time if unplug the vvt solenoids it runs great something is telling them to adjust timing to much.

When it came in it had a cam code and i found cam sensor was broken it had new installed found part of other in engine. Phaser was damaged replaced it. still did it after.

Then I pulled front of engine apart found chain tensioner leaking oil around gasket and then we decided to re time chain. If still doing it.Will let know after air mass meter.

PS no codes at this time

[URL] ....

2006 Ford F150 4x4 - Ford

[URL] .....

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Ford - Explorer :: 2004 Explorer - Transmission Seal Blowing When Under A Heavy Load

I'm in a situation where I may be having to tow my 3500# boat/trailer with my '04 Explorer 4WD (this is well within the max tow limit, per the manual). I have the 4.0L with the 5 spd auto tranny and 3.73ls gears. I've towed the boat a handful of times with this vehicle and had a good experience every time. Now I'm looking at this being my primary towing vehicle, towing once or twice a month in the summer. The car only has 48000 miles on the ticker and is in pristine condition, so mechanically it's sound.

I asked my mechanic what he thought of this arrangement and he hates the Explorers, so he's giving a biased response. Have any of you towed something on a somewhat regular basis with this, or a similar, vehicle? Any issues? My mechanic keeps going on about the transmission seal blowing when under a heavy load.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Knocking With Medium-high Load On The Engine

I have an 06 with 105000 miles. Since about 95000, I've been starting to get what sounds like a fuel knock with medium-high load on the engine. Thought it was carbon at first, but a few applications of Techron didn't clear it. Higher octane does seem to solve it.

Do the knock sensors go bad on a Prius? What's the proper way to diagnose the knock sensor on a Prius? (can't exactly bang on the block with a wrench at idle and listen for fuel adjustments on a car that doesn't idle).

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Passat (B6) :: Hesitation And Misfiring Only During Heavy Load

I have a 2008 Passat Komfort Wagon with the 2.0T. At 40,000 miles, yes it only has 40,000 miles, the thing started hesitating and misfiring on me only during heavy load. I ran the codes and it said #4 cylinder misfire. The check engine light was only on during the time it was misfiring and hesitating. Took it to the VW dealer to have them run it again and get guidance and they verified the #4. When I picked up the car the CEL was illuminated. They said it does it when it misfires. I explained that it was not on when I dropped it off and they basically said tough cookies. So I replaced the #4 coil pack and all 4 plugs. CEL light still on, but wasn't misfiring. Next day it began misfiring again under heavy load. Took to Autozone to run the codes and now says misfiring on all cylinders.

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Golf IV R32 :: Alt Belt Squeals On Cold Start / Under Heavy Load

Been having a problem where the alt belt squeals on cold start, under heavy load and sometimes at complete random when cruising at a steady speed.

It doesn't change when my air ride compressors kick on so I'm assuming it's not the alternator. The belt and tensioner are now brand new from VW. The car has no AC, so I am using belt #066 145 933 K (21.36x1264mm). Replacing the tensioner and belt made it a little better but it's still doing it.

I'm thinking PS pump because it squeals loudly when I nail the throttle around corners. Sometimes if I'm cruising and it starts doing it a little shake of the steering wheel makes it stop.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Whistle Under Heavy Load

I posted earlier about a whistle that appeared when I was towing my old travel trailer (6000 pounds). It only happened a couple of times, and I had a hard time replicating it, so I elected not to waste any money with the deductable, and possible additional costs for a non-covered issue at the stealership.

Now, I am towing a larger 5th wheel trailer (11000 pounds), and am experiencing this whistle on every steep grade, while towing. Below are a couple of things I noticed, that had to be, before I would get the whistle:

* It only seems to happen while the cooling fan is engaged, and also only when the rpms reached 2800 and above.

*If the fan was on, but the rpms were turning below 2800 rpms, then it would not whistle. It would, however, after the transmission downshifts, bringing the rpms back up, while climbing.

*If the engine was spinning at 2800 rpms, and the engine fan was not engaged, then it would not whistle, until the fan would kick in.

* It only seems to occur when I am climbing a steep grade, on a warm day. Although, I haven't experimented on steep grades on a cold day...

It sounds to me like there is an issue with the engine fan system, but I thought I would put it out there, just in case any of the diesel guru's out there might know of something else that would cause a whistle like this, i.e., turbo?

Oh by the way, I also think that I have a performance reduction lately. However, I can't know for sure, as I have never towed this much weight with my truck before. I just kind of expected that I would be able to pull to the top of these grades, with a little extra peddle to spare. I have to floor it, just to "try" and keep up with traffic. And I haven't calculated my fuel mileage while towing this beast yet, but WOW, that fuel gauge needle sure does drop like a rock!

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Ford Transmission :: Pulled Heavy Load Now Trans Oil Dripping?

I have a 1991 300 6 with an e40d trannsmission, our 4610 Ford tractor broke down in the field so i pulled it maybe 50 yds with my truck, it didnt like it but it did it. Now my tranny is dripping at a decent pace it looks like from the hole in the bottom of the trans, drove it ten miles home and it shifts fine. What could i have done??

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Misfire Under Heavy Load?

I have a 2003 f 350 6.0, when under a heavy laod such as towing a 3000-pound trailer up a long hill at approx 60mph and 2000 rpm it intermittently mis fires.The boost gauge bounces up and down and i here a poping sound from the engine compartment.I have had it to several dealer and independent shops but with out the trailer or a heavy load it runs perfectly.They have told me fuel pressure is good and changed all fuel filters with OEM parts.

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Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 - Loss Of Coolant When Pulled Heavy Load

Loss of coolant! I have a 2003 6.0 diesel with 200,000 miles. I put in a new oil cooler and ipr egr delete two years ago also flush the system and added a coolant filter. I filed it back up with the red antifreeze. Now the problem I have never lost any coolant since then and my deltas are about 5 degrees. But the other day I pulled a heavy load the first one since I did the repairs (coolant got up to 220 degrees and would drop back down) when I got home the coolant tank was about a inch low. I let the truck sit about 3 hours and checked it again and it was back at the full mark. Drove it the next day and it's back low about a inch, Any clue what's going on.

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Prius (2004-09) :: AC Got Weaker And Weaker Over The Summer

Looks like my AC condenser on the 2005 has been taken out by a rock. Guess that's not too uncommon from what I gather. AC got weaker and weaker over the summer, took it in to the dealer to diagnose. They found a big freon stain/gunk buildup on the right bottom corner, and are saying it needs a new condenser to the tune. Long story short, insurance is giving us the runaround because this is a salvage/rebuild. I've done a fair deal of work on past cars (oil, brakes, hydraulics, head gasket, clutch, etc) but have yet to wrench on the Prius much. I've never worked on the AC system, but this situation has me seriously thinking about starting

From what I gather I need a 88450-47020 condenser assembly w/receiver. It seems like this should come with the replacement o-ring for the dryer cap (hoe to confirm that?). Other than that it seems like I'd just need the special hybrid AC oil. From the tech manual changing the condenser out seems pretty straight forward, particularly as there is likely no refrigerant to speak of in the system currently. What worries me is not being able to test it under pressure/vacuum, and whether to try charging the system myself or if its reasonable to take it to a corner garage and have them leak test it and charge it after I've put the whole thing back together.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Trans Fluid Leak After Pulling Heavy Load

I have a 2000 SD F250, gasser, auto. Last week I pulled a heavy load and developed a tranny fluid leak. The fluid appears to be coming from what looks like a freeze plug on the bottom of the casing forward of the (torque converter?) pan . Is that plug easily replaced by a DYIer. Small leak. 150K on the motor. First time it has leaked. Heaviest load I've pulled.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F250 - Misfiring Under Heavy Load Or High RPMs

So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.

My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.

Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?

2002 Ford F-250 5.4l

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Jeep - Liberty :: 2003 - CEL Has Been On And Engine Knocks

2003 Jeep Liberty Sport, 156 K miles, Check engine light has been on for months now. First occurrence was when driving, and car started to knock as though I was shooting 50 cal machine guns. Stopped vehicle, shut off, and upon restart, engine ran smooth. Now, almost every time after engine has been running a while, and I am going on a down slope, the check engine light starts to blink, and engine starts to miss. Took to my mechanic, and so far, I have been told and have replaced, Fuel pump, Spark plugs, coils, and wires, cam sensor. Latest and most recent with promise that this has to be it, I replaced engine computer.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2002 F350 V8 Occasionally Blow A Bunch Of Smoke When Pulling Heavy Load

Best truck I ever had but around 200k would occasionally blow a bunch of smoke when pulling a heavy load.

My 2000 f 350 xlt triton v8 has done the same thing a couple times (about 200k miles).

The (cough) "truck expert" at my local dealer has never seen that before but its happened in 2 different trucks for me. It never caused a problem other than scaring me.

I sold the 02 last year when i got a 2011 f 250--it was 12 years and 300k miles old and never was hospitalized except for a fuel pump due to my negligence of filter.

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Prius (2004-09) :: Struts And Heavy Loads

i am the original owner of a 2004 Prius with about 120k miles. I am considering replacing the struts even though they aren't horrible. I figure I won't have the car more than 240k miles so might as well get the struts on earlier rather than later so I enjoy them as long as possible.

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