Prius (2004-09) :: Engine Keeps Running At The Stop Signs / In Park
May 19, 2011
2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
View 3 Replies2004 prius with 170k. Basically , his engine just doesn't shut off. battery is full. Engine keep running at the stop signs, in park. No engine light on.
View 3 RepliesCheck motor light came on...... Now at every light I stop at.... The engine won't kick off.... Keeps running...
Oil-check
Coolant - check
Gas cap-check
Anywhere in Orange county we have trusted repair/diagnostics?
We have a 2004 Jetta with about 92,000 miles on it. We bought it used in October 2012 after 3 months needed rebuilt transmission, and many other problems but the most recent has been costly with no mechanic being able to repair. These are some of the problems that we are faced with. While in drive the vehicle feels like its gonna stall but starts to beep the clock resets and car continues to drive with no problems or the car won't start at all.
You open the car door no keys are in the ignition but the car is clicking and clock and miles are fading in and out, light on door panel blinking, you push flashers and it makes a strange noise but flashers are not blinking. You put key in and try to start the car and nothing the blinking and clicking stop and it does nothing turn key back in off position clicking and blinking start again.
Car just stalls when approaching stop signs. No mechanic has been able to fix problem or duplicate issues. I do have video of the interior clicking and flashing and noises it makes.
2006 4.6l / Stalls at stop signs, red lights, and slow turns. My truck has been doing this for 3 years. Throws a code for crank position sensor, also will say unexpected low idle which would explain why so many of us have low oil pressure while this is happening. So after years of worrying and reading these forums and stalling at stop signs I take to the shop. And it was the throttle body needed cleaned. No more problems. Runs like a new one. I have used Lucas fuel treatment for years in this truck. Im a big fan of their products. When this problem began I was adding Lucas with every tank of fuel.
I buy it by the gallon jug. I used some Lucas from this same jug on the wifeys Denali and her truck stalled out once or twice. She wouldn't ever let me add any to her gas again lol, I argued with her that it wasn't because of the Lucas additive. Never the less it never stalled again. Maybe I got a bad batch, maybe I used too much, or maybe it had nothing to do with the additive. But I thought it needed to be mentioned since it is supposed to be a cleaner, and since I carried it in my tool box and added it to almost every tank of fuel. I was adding about 7 ounces per tank. Who knows? But the problem with this truck is that the throttle body did need cleaned.
My wife bought a new 2010 Prius Hybrid. It has consistently achieved 51+ miles per gallon. She bought it in June-2010 and at the 7000 mile mark (October?) called me concerned about a noise it was making under the hood. She described it as akin to the noise a playing card made when as a child you fastened it to the spokes of a bicycle. Chattering? It lasted 15-30 seconds and went away, before engaging in reverse or forward. A trip to the dealership was fruitless, an "intermittent episode" the diagnosis.
Now, nothing since until today. Same noise again, 12,000 mile mark, goes away in same timeframe, in park. Only today, through the course of several errands, her dash MPG indicator reads 39 MPG. She is waiting as we speak in the dealer lobby as they plug into the computer hunting for fault codes, etc. Having issues, especially an indicated dropoff in MPG seemingly in conjunction with such a noise?
For the last couple of days I have noticed that I have water dripping from the engine area of my after I park or stop. The dripping appears to stop after some duration (usually don't wait to how long it persists) but I don't recall seeing this the earlier in my ownership (first 12 months of owning 2010 Prius). It clearly appears to be water as it has no color or scent and when it dries, it leaves nothing behind. The only change that comes to mind is that I have been using the front defroster which I did not use before. It is not due to using the air conditioning, as I don't use it during the AC during the winter months at all.
View 4 RepliesI've had the car for 130k/2 yrs, and been very happy with it. Will definitely buy another. That said, I'm puzzled. Yesterday and today, after it had run for 10-20 minutes at surface-street speeds (so was warmed up), I got stuck at a lengthy traffic light and noticed a distinct smell of gasoline - not other cars' exhaust, but a fuel smell coming in on the blown air in the cabin. I have done no mechanical work on the car, or spilled gas into the glove box.
View 6 RepliesThe prius stock battery is weak compared to my wifes Mercury Mariner battery. The Mariner acceleration on battery alone is excellent - she can get up to 30 mph in no time on just the battery. In my prius it has very slow acceleration at a dead stop while running only on battery. Is it possible to buy aftermarket (stronger) batteries for the prius so I can at least driver the car up to 30 mph only on battery?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 ford Explorer xlt v8 4.6 with a P2197 code.(02 sensor bank2 sensor1)...
I had code P2195 a few months ago and replaced that 02 sensor but just recently truck threw code P2197 and is now starting to idle surge when I stop at a light or just leave it running in park.
Replaced PCV valve and the hose that goes from pcv valve to IAC also replaced Fuel Filter. Cleaned IAC, Throttle Body and MAF did the old check for vacuum leaks with can of carb cleaner nothing found.
Pulled all coil packs off checked OHMs all read .6,coil boots looked to be in good shape going to replace spark plugs and 02 sensor.
Today when I got home I put my 2007 Prius in Park and the engine shut off. Why this happened?
View 11 RepliesGot a 90 740 GLE station wagon (missing its rear muffler at present) that turns over yet doesn't like to start up on the first or second try. It has also stalled out at stop signs, and once when driving. Had a tune up about 3 months ago, new plugs and plug wires, and some welding on the exhaust, but the muffler is still missing. Could the exhaust be causing this in any way? It always eventually starts. Could use a little more power, but, hey, it's a 22 year old car. I'd really like to get this solved, as my ex drives it with my kid. Could this be a fuel pump or fuel filter issue?
View 3 RepliesI purchased a used 2002 Camry [above model] with 99K miles on it in March, 2009. This is my 3rd Camry as the first, 1986 had 256K and the 1997 had 252K. I was very pleased with the 86 & 97 and very displeased with this new one!
I have problems with the engaging stalling, surging at stop signs as well as problems at about 40 mph.
My car at first had issues just not starting. Now it starts just fine but it stalls when I come to a stop at lights or signs. This past time it hesitated before stopping after it turned off. When it turns off the lights and radio are still on. I have taken it to a nearby mechanic and a Nissan Dealership....Nothing... Nissan Pathfinder 2003 SE ....
View 4 RepliesI have a 2002 Pontiac Sunfire 2.4L 4 door (AT) with 132K miles on it. I have been having a little bit of difficulty for a year or so with the key not always wanting to turn without jiggling it a bit, since I've had cars before with this issue, I just fiddle with it till it turns.
A few weeks ago, I turned it on, and though the engine was running, it prevented me from shifting out of park, then I noticed that even though the engine was running, the AC wasn't working, and the gauges were not working. I even revved the engine a bit to make sure that my ears were not fooling me with the engine running, discussed it a bit with my husband (in passenger seat), then turned it off. While discussing whether we should get his keys to take his car, then I tried it again. It turned over, ran just fine and I forgot about it as a one-off anomaly. (Note: I never keep more than 4 keys and a few plastic key fobs for the grocery stores on my key ring, because I don't want the weight to mess up the ignition. I have a second key ring for my work keys that is kept separate.)
Last Friday, I'm getting ready to come home to start my one week vacation, and it did it again. So, I turned it off, waited a couple seconds, and tried to start it again. I saw the "Theft Deterrent" light on the dashboard and tried to turn the ignition off. It wouldn't turn off at all. It stayed running the whole hour until the tow truck showed up, and I gave myself a blister trying to get the ignition to turn off.
I verified is the system in my car here
[URL]................
MODEL YEAR(S): SUNFIRE 2000 -2003
KEY: N/A
T-HARNESS: GM-7
IMMOBILIZER: GM's PASSLOCK 2 ANTI-THEFT System, Requires: 791 Bypass Module
The tow truck driver pulled the fuel pump fuse to get the car to shut off, which occurred to me just about the same time that she did it. Then she disconnected the shifter linkage, so it could be put in neutral to tow it. As it was now 10PM by the time I got home, all I was worried about was running the battery down since it was still "on". I disconnected the battery and came in to wait til the morning to start researching.
Now, I discover that I should not have disconnected the battery. I wonder if it could be the magnet inside the ignition that is preventing it from turning off. It did feel like there was something inside preventing it from inserting completely and possible for the key to be pulled out while in the on position.
Because of the airbag, I'm very reluctant to try to replace the ignition switch myself. I know when I'm in over my head, and this is one of those times.
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry, 4 Cylinder that has just started stalling when I step on the gas after a complete stop. After that, the car will not start for over an hour and will last only a few miles after that. this has happened 3 times so far. I have changed out the fuel pump but that did not do the trick.
I also noticed that when it was cold this past winter and I was on the highway the temperature would decrease a lot. But regular city driving the temperature seemed fine. Well now that it's warm again, the car shuts off at just above the halfway mark. So this morning I changed out the Thermostat and now it's running hotter than ever, the heat does not work at all, and the car will not start. (it started up fine after the thermostat install but the engine temp was high and heat was not blowing warm) I'm hoping it's not a bigger issue.
For the past month or so, my 2002 Kia Sedona has been stalling/dying whenever I stop at lights or signs. We've gotten the alternator fixed, gotten a new battery, replaced the ignition coils, but still have the same problem. A friend of mine says that there is probably an issue with the idle air control valve and suggests I replace it. Looking online, it seems like I can possibly just clean it out, but I don't know where to begin. Where exactly is the IAC valve and is replacing/cleaning it a basic DIY job?
View 8 RepliesI recently had 2 coils replaces and 4 spark plugs (CODES SHOWING ACCORDING TO GOODYEAR) replaced because the engine light was ON. Now My car intermittently shuts off without warning, but will restart about 1 or 2 minutes later showing CHECK GAS CAP on dashboard. Went back to Goodyear thinking maybe faulty parts. They ask if any lights are on like the check engine light, they tell me if not they don't know, come back if it continues. I thought maybe it's my battery.
The guys at Battery Bills connected a devise to the battery that shows green if it's charged, YELLOW if it needs to be driven more(or issue) RED(not enough power PROBLEM) and I when back to them yesterday and they rechecked...Battery is fully charged. They said the alternator is good also, I'm not too sure they checked.Later after work I fuel up a the Chevron instead of Costco thinking maybe the gas??? My car starts then dies, the battery signal device is showing red.
I get a jump, the second the cables are connected to my battery the device shows green, my car starts right up. Pull out to the traffic light, car shuts off, but restarts. I was told to drive my car at least 30 minutes away from home and back about once a week, to keep battery charged because I live less than 10 minutes away from wherever I drive to....so I DRIVE about 5 minutes in my car starts to stutter(hesitate) twice, but smooths out and I also notice the RPM gauge is showing 0???? NO ERROR LIGHTS or CHECK ENGINE ARE SHOWING ON THE DASHBOARD so I continue home at a lost. My car is a 2010 Accent with 57,100 miles....
Ford Superduty (F450). The truck is the gasoline 460 engine and E4OD transmission with 100K miles. Runs great and pulls a heavy load.
When the truck is started, I cannot move the shifter from park to any gear. The shifter lever will not pull back. I think that there is something either the ignition switch or an electronic solenoid that prevents shifting the truck from park while it is not running.
So if I turn off the truck and leave the key in the run position, the shifter will release. While holding back on the shifter while in park, I restart the truck, I can then shift into any gear and the truck runs fine. Then if I stop and put the truck back into park, I must shut off the engine, hold back on the shifter, start the truck then shift into gear.
After driving 20 min at 40 mph, I came to a traffic stop. The engine was still running, the battery was at 75% full, outside temp 80, A/C set at 75. I noticed the MDF showed no engine running at all. But I can feel a little vibration, which tells me that the engine speed was very low, and not constant, at/below idle speed.
When I finally get home and park the car, the battery was green! Basically the engine kept running even for the last 5 min when I drove at 30 mph.
Does that indicate something wrong?
My car is a 2004 at 222K miles. 12V Battery changed 3 years ago, PCV, spark plugs changed 6 month ago. I've noticed sometime that HV battery is weaker than before, easier to get high engine speed when picking up at 50 mph +.
I have a 2005 prius, and it has developed a severe vibration when the engine is running. It is only when the engine is running, even in park. I'm thinking it's the motor mounts, but I was wondering if there could be another cause. I do not have a check engine light, and the engine appears to be running fine. the vibration goes away whenever the engine cuts off, and there are no other drivability issues.
View 3 RepliesI haven an 08 F150 Lariat 5.4 with 148xxx km. I had the ticking in my 5.4 got a rebuild engine 9xxx km ago
A while back it started to vibrate when i stop at a red light or stop sign or in park. The rpms are at 620-660(wich is normal?) sometimes the vibration is there, sometimes not. I can feel it in the seat.
When you pop the hood, you can see the engine shutter just a bit every 4 seconds or so. Early in the morning before i go to work i start the truck to warm it up and its not there.
What i changed so far:
Air filter, fuel filter, sparkplugs, cops, battery(getting ready for winter)
Maf is nice and clean. Where else to look? Engine mounts?