OK simple question, when I coat to stop using B why does ICE continue to run instead of turning off? If I move lever to D then ICE shut right down. Other than as a reminder "Shift the lever, dummy", why would/should ICE continue to run in B but not D when stopped (assuming battery does not need recharge)?
View 12 RepliesWhen I turn the engine off on my Trailblazer, there is a fan under the dash that continues to run. It sounds like the blower fan. I ended up having to pull the number 34 fuse out to make it stop. This fuse is labeled as "Ignition A". If I pull the #35 fuse, which is for the blower fan, it doesn't stop it. Is there something else besides a blower fan under the dash making this noise and why?
View 11 RepliesBasically the car LS 2003 V8 had an issue with the thermostat....this was necessary be changed after 50 miles of drive the car....in the last 4 miles the temperature increased in a short period time to the high limit...with the protective system the car was turn off.....one time with the mechanical service the follow items was changed: thermostat, radiator, coolant temperature sensor, water pump, plastic joint parts (housings), head seals, coolant and the 2 caps (radiator & coolant tank), this last was damaged by the pressure during the over heating.
After all parts changed I still continue having in the car the high temperature in 8-10 minutes of continue engine operation, after this period time the car turn off automatically by the safety system.
I need information about the coolant flow in the system, the pump pulley rotation, the belt installation, the manner and values to test the old temperature sensor, auxiliary pump and the current CTS (cylinder temperature sensor).
The fan motor is working good, none coolant leak is present, and I already test without thermostat (none change in the result).
I'm convinced this is a real problem with my 3-month-old 2013. When I bring it in for the 5K service, soon, this will be my No.1 issue. When running in EV mode, if you happen to start the ICE it will continue to run when you stop. In fact, it races - it doesn't just idle. I've tested this by being stationery for up to 5 minutes. This occurs not just the first time the ICE cycles on and off - it's every time. It only stops while driving (or by powering off).
View 17 RepliesFirst and foremost, I love my Touareg....when it works!!
Problem # 1 : I have had it at the VW dealership in Pensacola, FL 7 times to fix the flat tire sensor. They can't/won't fix it. Once you start the car and get rolling it will go off. It will go away and come back on several times for the first few miles. I have also noticed that after temp changes it becomes more sensitive. I have checked the manufacture's tire suggestions and they are dead on.
Problem #2 : The battery will die if the car is not driven in a day or two. I just had the battery replaced a month ago and thought that it was the issue. I have checked to make sure that I do not have any accessories plugged in and it still happens...i.e. car phone charger, ipod, radar detector.
Problem # 3 : This maybe in conjunction with problem 2. I just recognized that the information display above the steering wheel will not turn off when the car is locked and not in use. This just started and will surely drain the battery.
Problem # 4 : The navigation system comes on-line when the vehicle is started. It asks for the user to input an agreement at the beginning of each start. The navigation will no longer accept any inputs. The volume work for the radio and that's about it.
Problem # 5 : The steering wheel controls for the display will not work. When you try to page through the information display on the steering wheels right hand corner it does nothing. The rolling wheel for the radio on the steering wheel also does not work.
I have had so many problems with my ride that I am ready to light it on fire. It looks great in the driveway and that's about it. I realize that the majority of my problems are possibly connected.
My car makes a ticking noise as soon as I turn the key to the 'on' position. The ticking continues once the engine begins running and stops shortly afterward (maybe 10 - 15 seconds). I'll attach a video of the ticking after the car is already running. I've checked the service light. It is the catalytic converter. I'm pretty sure this is a separate problem, but am not sure what is causing it.
View 3 RepliesSo, I changed the front brake pads on my 2007 Prius blindly, and in doing so I bled the lines (I also had the key in my pocket!). Now, the ABS light, VSC light and (!) light all are on and continue to stay on while driving. Is this something as simple as resetting the codes? Is the vehicle safe to drive to a repair shop to set strait?
View 2 Replies2001 F150 5.4 4x4 148K... I recently replaced the intake manifold on this truck and when the engine revs it wants to continue at high RPMs for about 10 seconds after letting off the throttle. When driving, it almost wants to go faster and the gas mileage is really bad. Had some codes come up and took it to AZO and had them checked. P0171 & P0174. Guess I need to do some testing on the MAF and injectors.
View 2 RepliesJust drove home with the AC on full blast in 100F and the fan did not continue running at all when I shut off the car. Every other car I have had with an electric fan keeps the fan going for some time to cool the engine.
I had my car in to the dealer last fall and they did a body control module update that I thought was going to fix this. Although it did manage to kill the sunroof closing VAGCOM hack, it did not apparently fix the coolant fan issue.
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger which was manufactured in 08/95. The key will crank the trunk fine, but it when put into the off position nothing happens. It continues to run as normal. You can even take the key out, but the truck runs like normal. Could this be bad ignition switch? The key seems to be doing its job because I can see the plastic pin(? I am not sure what its called) move back and forth down steering column when the key is turned.
View 7 RepliesAfter about 3 weeks, I finally get my 04 .:R32 back from the shop after getting a new fuel pump (long story there) and the mechanic mentioned the fans began to run and stay running when the key is turned to the on position and then turned off, key removed etc. I picked the car up tonight and repeated his claim turning the key to the on position and the fans kicked on and stayed on until the battery was disconnected. I am hoping there is an easy fix. What this could be? FCM maybe?
View 20 RepliesSo as per my prior post i was having issues with my directional (blinker) the clicking sound would continue after the blinker turned off. Replaced the hazard warning relay (whole hazard switch) and the problem is still happening. I was playing with the actual blinker control arm today and i got it to make the clicking noise without the flashing light to come on so that seems to be what the problem is. Thinking to have that signal arm replaced? I think that it is not totally disengaging after i turn the wheel. is this something i could do myself? I have the bentley manual to take apart the steering wheel.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 Toureg with approximately 31000 miles. Initially the noise Whining/ Squealing - sounds like a bad belt - would occur at approximately 40 mph and continue through the drive but if I dropped down to 30-35 mph it would stop. This would happen sporadically. Now it is occuring about every time I drive. I have had it in the VW Dealer twice and they are unable to detect the problem .
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 Ford Focus with new battery and cables, new alternator, less than 100,000 (barely). Recently made a trip from austin to dallas and back. On the way back, on the interstate, car suddenly refused to continue acceleration (no indicator lights came on); pulled to the shoulder, shut everything off; waited about five minutes, car started up on first try..continued driving; about 12 miles later, same thing occurred. Pulled over, turned everything off, started up again just fine, drove the rest of the way home.
Took it to my mechanic, he ran diagnostics..found nothing. Ran perfectly on short drives around town for three weeks; three weeks later, another road trip...did not run air conditioner or anything extra on the drive; about 30 miles from final destination, same thing...lost speed, wouldn't accelerate, pulled over, shut it off...started right up again and ran fine to final destination. On the way home, about 100 miles into return trip, same thing.. lost acceleration etc. But this time would only keep running correctly for about 20 or so miles each time. Was happening so frequently, had it towed home. Got home, started right up, drove fine. the only thing my mechanic noted on last inspection was the AC would not turn off. Could this be an electrical or switch problem?
I have a 1998 Camry. My directional light and click correctly when I tun them on. When I GENTLY turn off the directional signal, I hear the relay continue to click, however the dash lights do not blink, nor do the outside lights. If I let the directional lever jump back into place, the problem does not occur. Is it the switch in the column, or the relay?
View 1 RepliesAny way to disable the initial start up screen on a 2013+ that tells you "Drive safely and obey traffic rules....." then has a "continue" button to select?
View 5 RepliesAs the title says, I have a 2014 Passat TDI that was bought brand new back in September. I now have 6,300 miles on it.
Anyways, started it up last night, and started backing down my driveway that has a bit of an incline. Basically, I just have to ride the brake into the street, no acceleration needed.
As soon as the car got into the street, the engine just stopped. Not stuttering or anything, just like I had turned the key off, but all electrical systems still on. Put it in park, foot on brake, and it would not even turn over, just a dead key.
So, turned the key off, removed key, opened door, and re-attempted to start. Engine started at this point.
Needless to say, I'm a little unnerved at a brand new $30K vehicle doing this at only 6K miles. Dealership can't get it in until next Thursday.
Also, I noticed that my fuel pump will randomly continue to run after shutting the vehicle off for about 5 seconds. Fuel pump is extremely loud and after shutting off the vehicle the pump sounds like this (make a fuel pump noise outloud and read) - "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeee wee wee weeeeeeeeeee" and then shuts off. I've owned a slew of vehicles (5 other diesel trucks included) and not a one of them has done this.
1987 Acura Integra 165k... After parking the car, and turning off the engine, and locked the car, the brake light continue to stay on for about 10mins - then goes off on its on.What seems to be the problem - easy to fix?
View 6 Replies2000 excursion V-10. I parked the truck, went back to start it and all my gauges blink, and the number one relay under the dash (interior light relay) begins clicking. The truck will not even crank. The relay will continue clicking (even with the key off) until you remove and replace the relay. Sometimes I will get absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I have tried jumping the battery, no change. Also tried starting it in neutral to trouble shoot the NSS, but it won't even click when in neutral. I checked battery connection, and followed the battery cables to look for a short but found nothing.
View 3 RepliesI own a 2001 Jetta GLX 12v VR6, lately the car has not been running well. It chokes the power past 3500 rpm's and will continue running poorly and sound sort of like a Subaru boxer engine. Sometimes it corrects itself and runs okay but goes back and forth.
I ran the codes on VAG COM:
6 faults found:
17551 - Load calculation cross check
P1143 - 35 - 10 upper limit exceeded - intermittent
16712 - Knock Sensor 1 (g61)
P0328 - 35 - 10 Signal too high - intermittent
[Code] .....
I ran VAG COM a couple of days before these codes came up and I had a different code dealing with air/fuel mixture, something about fuel running to rich. I'm stumped.
I have a 99 f350 V10 gas dually dumper. Today while driving I stopped at a stop sign. When I went to continue the transmission seemed to be in neutral, then it caught and I drove through the intersection. It 2-3 seconds later disengaged again. I pulled over. When I attempted to put it in park it grinded. (Bad enough I just turned off the key). I checked the fluid. It was close to full and red. While in park I restarted. Truck started fine. I shifted into drive and nothing. It was like it was in neutral still. I attempted to put in park again and more grinding. Also while in park it does not hold the truck from rolling. After getting towed home I checked the tranny fluid again and it was still looking ok. I drained the transfer case also. The fluid in there was near black an appeared to have a metallic look. Does this problem seem to be just my tc or tranny issues also?
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