I have to manually lock my car doors, and use the door handle unlock sensor to open them. If i use the key FOB or power lock button it blows the fuse. I would like to lock my rear hatch, locking the car the way i do i can never lock the rear.
View 2 RepliesI purchased 2011 F250 King Ranch Edition about 3 months ago. I'm loving the truck and not had any issues until 3 weeks ago. I locked the truck as usual using the key Fob, and upon returning to the truck, I noticed the doors weren't locked. After some brief trouble shooting, I discovered the the fuse was blown that according to the manual controls just the power door locks. I thought it was strange that a new truck would be popping a fuse so I replaced it...a couple of days later it blew again. This time I was locking the truck with the door key pad. I took it to the dealership and they checked it over and said they replaced the fuse and cycled it numerous times but could not reproduce the problem. The told me that they even put a call in to the Ford engineers and they said check the key pad for water intrusion. The dealership told me they disassembled the key pad and found nothing wrong....lock and unlocked the door some more and the fuse would not blow. I picked the truck up four days ago and the fuse blew again last night. Everything else works...alarm sets and goes off if any of the doors are opened. The only thing that I can find that doesn't work when the fuse is blown is the remote start.
View 14 Replies2008 Prius. I am just starting to have power door lock system problem. The power locks would not work either with the fob button, the keyless entry, or the door buttons. I have replaced the battery in both key fobs. I have also found the 25 Amp fuse in position 11 of the fuse block located driver's side instrument panel (Power door lock system) was blown and have replaced the fuse. The fuse has blown again after 3 days. I can still start the car with without inserting the key. Why is my fuse blowing?
View 11 RepliesI have an 04 prius. Recently my tail lights went out. Change fuse worked good for a few hours kept a close eye.
Next day 10a fuse blew again and then 2 more times in same day. My tail lights go out and license plate light go out together when this happens. What can I do?
Fuse 29 was blown when I got my truck, automatic headlights and overdrive lock didn't work. I replaced the fuse, the lights came on and overdrive locked out but when I shifted into park the doors locked and the fuse blew. How the door locks are related and why they would lock when shifting to park?
View 2 RepliesWe bought this car a month ago, 2007 US touring model. It had a 15A fuse in the Gauge position (spec calls for 10A there) when we bought it. As of last week it is blowing a lot.
What we've noticed:
- First time it happened I noticed my signals weren't working. After 5 minutes of driving I pulled over and turned the car off and on. At that point the Combination Meter went blank. After getting home I found the fuse blown. Replaced it with a 10A fuse, and that blew right away when starting the car. Replaced it with a 15A fuse and it worked for a few trips.
- While I was away for a week, my wife replaced the fuse 3 times while it blew away from home. (she estimates every third trip) She has found it seems to happen when putting the car in reverse.
- Today the car is working fine, and I can't replicate the problem.
I got Corolla 2012. Dome light fuse 10 amp is blowing off as soon as you put it in. Light bulbs checked seems it is not a problem. Maybe relay?
View 11 RepliesJust bought a jeep cherokee and it has power door locks. The previous owner stated that after a few days after replacing the fuse it blows. He did this a few times and every time the fuse blows for the power door locks.
View 1 RepliesI just bought the batteries I was asking about in this posting. Bought them at auto zone on my lunch hour today, they swapped them out right there in the lot, no problems. Watched carefully to make sure terminals were not crossed, etc. When I came out of work a few hours later, the #20 fuse for door locks was blown. I chalked it up to the battery change, and put a new fuse back when I got home. I come out an hour later to leave, and the fuse is blown again. I have not replaced it again, need to go get more of the proper amp rating.
No other changes to the truck other than the battery replacement. And that's the only anomaly. No other problems, nothing. Getting ready to head cross-country on a skiing trip, this Friday, so there really is no time to get to the dealer to get this looked at.
I have a 2006 Prius. Just after the Warranty expired which is 3 years in the UK, the passenger door lock would not open. Toyota replaced the lock and it was fine.
View 8 RepliesI bought a used 05 prius about 3,4 years ago. It came with only one key, but everything was fine, except for few minor things. I have changed 12v battery within a month of purchasing this car, to optima yellow top as many priuschat users suggested.
I bought another black logo fob (non-SKS) on ebay, and get a spare key, but no luck. I was trying to do as fast as I can, but the anti theft light never came and stayed on (entering programming mode).
All of sudden, I noticed the fob doesn't lock/unlock the vehicle, but still starts the car. Since then, i unlock with metal key, then start with key fob. Manual door lock/unlock button works fine at driver side. However, when i try to lock the door from passenger side manually, it unlocks the door right away.
Thinking about getting a mini vci cable with techstream to setup a key fob after checking the 12v battery. but it only have been 3,4 years, seems it is too early to replace 12v battery.
I loved my Prius to death on day 1 but now I am having some frustrating problems starting and stopping the car. I drove the car on Sunday for several journies with no problems. I even did a 120 mile round trip in which i cruised at about 65 and 70mph to test the mpg (around 50-55mpg which I was quite happy with)
Anyway.. onto today..
So I tried to start the car at 7:20 for my usual drive to work and tried the usual approach..
1) unlock doors
2) put key fob into slot
3) put foot on brake
4) press the power button
but nothing happened. I cant remember the sequence but various messages popped up. After that I thought i would lock and unlock the car but i wasnt able to, so I stepped out of the car and was still not able to lock the car. All I could do was lock from the inside the 3 other doors and manually lock the driver door. (and call a friend to pick me up!). So this evening I have tried again. still problems..
got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
View 14 Replies1) This is not battery problem, because smart function is work. If battery dead , smart function complete dead, and I change 2 new battery.
2) sometime smart fob can remote lock door. but 99% is not work. I don't know why.
Weird thing happened this evening. About sunset I went out to the front porch and pressed the door lock button on the fob to lock the doors. It honked at me. Never done that before.
Then it started making a loud clicking noise, like a relay, from under the hood. I went around to the drivers door and pressed the unlock button but the doors did not unlock. Pulled the emergency key out of the fob and opened to door.
I was thinking maybe it just wanted me to start it up and recharge for a minute. Haven't driven it since last Thursday before a spell of freezing weather on Friday & Saturday.
Inserted key fob in dash socket & tried to start it - nothing happened except some warning lights on the dash started blinking in time with the relay clicking sound. Turned it off & back on and door locks started clicking like it was trying to lock & unlock.
Kept turning it off and on, tried to manually unlock or lock the doors. Left the door open and went inside & put a new battery in the key fob, went out to try again. Tried to start it but it would not. Eventually, everything stopped except the "Check Engine" light came on. Car still won't start. Now I can't lock the drivers door.
I recently got a used 2007 prius as my first car; Unfortunately today the drivers side lock has stopped working. when trying to use the smart unlock, the Prius would beep many times, and the drivers door would not unlock (or lock for that matter). After getting into the car (with the mini key) I noticed that the inner lock button does not lock or unlock that door either.
All other doors function normally. The lock can be manually operated, so it's probably not mechanical.
New batts in remotes (remotes do nothing but do start the car when inserted in dash).
12 volt batt removed and tested good at autozone.
Tried the "key" button under steering wheel in both positions still not working..
Checked all fuses under the hood, all OK ...all other items in the car seem to work..
None of the exterior black buttons work..
I have a 2007 Prius and recently both my driver side front door and driver side rear door lock actuator failed. I browsed and found part number to replace the driver side front door lock assembly. I wasn't very confident in my ability to replace the assembly, but I decided to give it a shot, so I ordered the part. The part arrived today and my wife and I just finished successfully replacing the assembly. It was a little challenging, but now that we know how to do it we could probably do it again in half the time.
View 3 Replies2007 Prius here. A few months ago I had a similar problem. Basically when putting my hand on the door sensor, the doors would cycle through unlocking (noise, lights flash etc) without actually unlocking. If I keep pulling the handle after each attempt it seems to go forever.
The front passenger door also did not lock under any circumstance.
Took it into Toyota, they absolutely screwed me I now realize, $900 to replace a door actuator in that passenger door.
Worked fine for a few weeks. Then all of a sudden, problem started again. Just like last time, slowly slowly over the course of 2 months, it got worse and worse until today I could not open the driver side front or rear door at all.
On my 2007 Prius the exterior lock button on the driver door works maybe 1 time out of 10. After shutting all the doors I press it and usually nothing happens (when it works, it locks all the doors and makes the beep sound as expected).
View 6 RepliesRecently, I've been having issues with my door locks. When exiting the car, and pressing the door lock on the outside handle, I would here the door lock solenoid fire once, then open, and the door would not lock. Same thing would happen when I used the FOB. The door would not lock. On occasion, I would get the door to lock, and stay locked by using the door lock inside the car when the door was open.
On the occasions when I did get the door locked, I then had issues unlocking. If I approached the drivers door to unlock the door, the car would just keep repeatedly beeping, and would not unlock the drivers door. But, the back door would unlock, so I could reach in, and open the drivers door from the back.