Prius (2004-09) :: Does This Ride Store DTC Code
Aug 15, 2010
Had my first hiccup, and it's little disconcerting. Usually about every two weeks I take my car through a car wash and I have to put the car in N-no big deal, no messages.
This go-around as I was nearing the end of the wash, the Master Warning and the traction battery lights gets thrown, with the message on the display saying I should put the car in Park. Well, naturally you can't do that inside this car wash, so I waited until after I exited and checked the charge display: one purple bar.
So I hit the freeway and within 5 minutes I go all the way up to all Green. So I go from one bar to almost 8 bars in under 5 minutes? I find this rather odd that all of a sudden I get this behavior.
Here's my question: when this happens, does the car store a DTC code?
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After setting the climate to 70F, Auto, and driver controlled for all occupants, start-up volume adjusted, e.t.c, I press the "STORE" button under the user profile settings. The key has been synced.
Every time i start the car up, it maintains these settings. If I press the big round knob on my name, it goes to these settings (my name, and assigned key icon)
However, if Im driving, and lets say, i adjust the temperature to 76F, then maybe later starts to get too hot, or cold, and I want to go back to my stored setting, it does not, it just stays on the new temperature. If I change the temperature manually again (2nd time), and I press the stored setting, it goes back to the setting i just had, which should NOT be stored. It usually just ignores the stored setting.
I also noticed that you can either press the large round knob, or the bottom right tap button where it says "SELECT" for your stored settings.
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Thought I would check and see if it's possible to store a Carburetor. Have a Holley 4160 that I rebuilt and would like to keep as a backup. Thought since the carb has not been installed the gaskets and seals may not be an issue. Other option, swap the Carb on my truck every few months.
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I have a 05 dodge Ram that periodically wont start after I stop at a store etc. It happens about once a month and will start up after sitting for 1-8 hours.Ive had it to the dealer , diesel mechanics, etc. with no luck,( Cant reenact the problem and nothing shows on the computer).
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The OEM M+S tires on their 18" wheels have been removed and replaced with 17" rims on which winter tires are mounted.Should I place the stored tires in garbage bags or anything?
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have a 07 prius with 113k miles. It recently displayed the red triangle with code p0aa6 sub code 612.
I took apart the battery and nothing looked corroded, then on the inside of the bus bar i found a small amount of corrosion. After testing the cells i found 2 modules that were leaking voltage.
Since I had everything open I figured I might as well test to see if any cells were on there way out. The static voltages were pretty close around 7.8v, there were a couple modules that were .3v apart that I'm doing more testing on. I load tested each module with 1a, is 1 amp enough for a load test? I have a 100a load tester but figured that was way too much. They were all ok under load test, dropping about .6v and returning to original voltage within a few minutes.
Then I decided to check capacity on the bad cells, they were about 500mah, got to 1000mah after 1 discharge/charge cycle. I tested the capacity on a cell I thought was good and so far it discharged about 1050mah until it reached 6v, this was from 7.77v. I'm giving it some time to rest to see if it goes back up a bit and then I'll discharge some more till it stays at 6v. Even if I get a little bit more in it will be way under the 6500mah it should have or even the 3500mah that I've read is acceptable.
Since all of the modules have parameters that are pretty close I'm thinking the capacity will be pretty close as well.
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I have a 2012 V level 5, it has 28.5k and recently I feel the ride quality has become very harsh. You tend to feel every bump, jarring potholes. I just upgraded my truck and my wife things it me because the truck suspension is so soft and just makes the prius fell harsh. Going to take it in for its 30k service in a couple of weeks but is there anything/anywhere I should check in the meantime.
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I bought an 09 gx470 with 25,000 miles on it. I noticed about a weird noise under the glove box. Its not an irritating noise but since the cabin is so quiet, you will noticed this during the ride. Would it be normal to have this noise?, I owned an 06 rx330 and i dont have that issue.
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My 2005 Prius is riding a little rough in the front. It seems like it might be the drivers side front wheel. I can hear the revolutions of the tire/wheel and I get a slight feeling of those revolutions from the drivers seat. I was thinking warped rotor but I'm no mechanic.
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I love my 2011 Prius. It's relatively quiet in low speed drive and can't beat those MPGs. One thing that does bother me though is how bumpy the car rides. It is somewhat tolerable in the summer and fall, but as soon as I start driving on winter roads I feel like I'm riding on a tin can, feeling every single road bumps. Does the car usually feel the same for others or I need to change someone on my car. I still have the factory Assurance tires (36K miles). Are those the problem or should I get the struts checked (even though I'm pretty sure they're fine)?
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The GX did not ride as smooth and hit hard on dips and bumps like a speed bump.
Air bags fill properly. Shock are damp around pistons, but definitely not blown out. My vehicle has 188,000 miles on it.
Dealer looked at and drove with me two times: Report: All working proper. The recommendation to put the air level control to high and then back to normal did improve the condition but not like when new.
Vehicle rode better with a load in the back, and or people in back seats. So I read where someone had a theory that the height sensors might degrade over time, and the normal position might have drifted out of range.
I adjusted the height sensors to ride a little higher (as I could see on the rear axle the rubber bump stops had been making contact a lot- it was all clean and shiny).
Raised the rear about 1/2" on each side. Did a lot of measurements from ground to bottom of wheel opening (not the best reference point, but at least I had one).
Result: Raising the ride height, thus increasing the travel to the bump stops totally brought back the good ride it had when newer. I also believe the increased height means the air bags have more pressure, thus more spring rate. So it takes more force to compress and travel to the bump stops.
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I like most everything about my new v five, except the low profile tires. The ride is noisy and rough, especially compared with the Camry LE we traded and the Tacoma, of course, which we still drive.
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My 2015 prius series 5 ride is really harsh when gong over bumps! 17 OEM wheels w Toyo tires set at 33 frt/32 rear, Trd springs frt/rear, trd rear sway Cusco frt sway bar, front power brace and center brace! Should go back to stock springs? Or invest in set of soft coil overs ? I like the lowered look too!
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I have a 2004 Elantra with 130000+ miles. Lately I have noticed bumpy ride along the concrete highway. It bumps like a Yo-Yo. What Could be the issue and how expensive?
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I need to replace the shocks and springs in my truck. I would like a stiffer ride something that doesn't bounce to much and offers better handling.
I have a 2004 4X4 Diesel Excursion
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I bought this truck with only 15k miles and the ride is like riding in a low rider really bad every bump feels like there is no shocks. I rode in a rental truck 2010 F 150 and it was like going from a softail to a hard tail night and day.
It has always rode like this since I bought it I chalked it up to the wheels (22in) being so big. The wheels are the factory Harley Davidson 22in with brand new tires as of yesterday.
I want to know the best and cheapest way to get the best ride possible. Also maybe a ball park of how much this will cost I can not do the work so I will have to pay or wait till spring to do it myself.
Also wanted to explore air ride if it didnt cost way to much.
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Here is my 2004 Excursion PSD. The X was already lifted when we bought it, but I'd love to return it to stock ride height or near stock w/ the larger tires on 16's. So, not having been around 4x4's for long, how the heck do I figure out how it was lifted? Shackles, different springs, who knows??? Basically is just too much of a PITA not fitting into car washes and not being able to fit it in my garage for repairs.
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I noticed a slightly rough ride around 70-80 mph sometimes on interstate a month back but thought it was my scalloped tires that need replacing and ignored it. Last weekend i had to go to MI from GA pulling a small enclosed tandem axle trailer (6x12). I started after work and made it to VA before stopping for the night with no problems not even at 70-80. Fueled up first thing in the morning (BP Fuel) and headed farther into the mountains when the truck started shaking when it should be downshifting (into overdrive I am guessing?)
No check engine light come on so i pulled off the road checked rear end and motor oil everything was fine, topped off tranny which was slightly low but was on dipstick .I let the truck cool for 20 min then got back going again. I continued driving with overdrive off, and not on the truck. Every time it had to downshift under hill climb it would start shaking but i would let out of the gas and it would stop. Once i got out of the mountains it was fine and couldnt tell it was running bad at low rpms, and also drove fine when i got off the interstate for fuel driving in towns.
I drove that whole day through ohio mich and back trough ohio when entering kentucky. It started to downshift and run at high rpms with no problem, and started acting up when i got back into the mountains.When the truck would go to downshift it started to shake uncontrollably again. then is when the check engine light come on and flashed. I babied in until tenn when i stopped at oriellys to hook up to scanner. scanner read misfire on 5 and ignition coil d primary secondary circuit malfunction. I checked the #5 plug (fine) and replaced the #4 coil, and didn't check the #4 plug.
t kept going and it never fixed the problem. stopped and jumped my coils around and check a few more plugs which all were fine but never that #4 (why idk), after being fed up, sat night, no mechanics around and wanting to get home i drove it the rest of the way. it never idled rough until i got almost home in Ga. When i got home the next day i pulled all plugs and all looked brand new still except the #4 which had the whole prong and tip completely burnt off. I replaced it and nothing changed, but my exhaust sounded restricted. Brought to a shop and it is now reading a misfire on 4 (with brand new plug) 5 7 and 8 and also saying it is running lean. They changed fuel filter and plugs but nothing still.
2004, f150, 4.6, 4x4, stx, short wheel base, 3:55
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The car was purchased used with 18" wheels already on. After driving for about 6 months, I started noticing the road noise getting very loud. I took the car to a tire shop and they told me that there was some uneven cupping in the middle of the wheels, which is usually caused by worn out shocks making the wheel bounce up and down.
I replaced all 4 shocks, then replaced all 4 tires. Now its much more smooth than before, and is very silent on nicely paved roads. however, I notice when there's roads which any imperfections (like fixed streets with tar.. or uneven pavements, or when your tire hits the freeway markers to keep you in the lane) its heard very loud from inside the car and creates an almost *thud* sound when it does.
I assumed that the problem was that the car had 18" wheels. So recently I swapped the wheels out with stock 15" from Toyota, but somehow the road noise is still very apparent. I sat in a friend's Prius, same year, and I could tell that it was handling the uneven pavements much softer.
What could be the problem now? Is there anything else that needs to be replaced?
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In our recent -20 F cold spell in Chicago, I noticed the ride got very stiff, have others experienced this in very cold weather? My theory is that the oil in the shocks or dampers become extra viscous at these temps and the cold shocks causes the ride to becomes like that of a Honda Civic with a dropped suspension. (It's so amusing to watch those Civic "low riders" going over railroad crossings, but it's all image right????)
Anyway I would think the colder temps would lower the air pressure in the tires, softening the tires a bit, but perhaps the rubber hardens counteracting that benefit. I have Michelin Primacy BTW. Since temps went back up above about +10 F ride seem to be OK again.
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For about a year now my 04 santa fe whines after running for a long ride. We can never get it to do it to bring to dealership to have them look at since it only does it after long rides. We have had the power steering and transmission flushed and that worked a little while during the fall and winter but now that the weather is getting warmer it started again. What this could be?
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