How to disable the 12v DC-DC converter or what fuses I can remove besides the fusible link in the fuse box? I cant even find a writeup on how to remove that fuse...
View 19 RepliesReplacing a Cat with a test pipe for added HP?
View 14 Repliesi've got an 05 f250 SD 5.4 v8. i had a bad manifold and decided to get headers. i figured i would get the most performance of of them if i did high flow cats too. oh and i also already have an exhaust on it. the only cats i can find for it are universal fit. my question is how would i be able to get the cats off of the factory pipes without damaging the pipes or original cats? plus the pipe with the flange end is a really small piece. would i be able to get it off just by heating it up?
View 1 RepliesI read up in an article I searched that removing the ABS fuse disables the traction, ESC, ABS, all that stuff. Is there a way that I can disengage my traction control and ESC without taking a fuse out if that is even possible?
View 1 Repliesok i have a 2000 passat v6 last nite i was removing my trunk light because it went out, after that i closed my trunk and went to park my car in the garage but wen i tried turning it on it wouldnt the headlights turn on the dashboard lights turn on but my alarm doesnt lock or unlock. My interior lights dont work either. i checked my fuses and their all fine. I tried jump starting it but that didnt do anything either what can the problem be?
View 1 RepliesWell, it's starting to look like I may have to build my underhood harness from bits of multiple harnesses. I found a 2000 Excursion harness, but the engine plugs and wires were hacked off during engine removal.
After in-depth study of wire diagrams, it looks like I can just get a pickup harness and combine it with the aforementioned damaged Excursion harness to get what I need- and do it for about 50 bucks.
I also notice that there are a few Ebay sellers who just sell the fuse/relay box with the wiring harness hacked off of it. So my question is- how do you remove the wires (including the terminal ends) from the fuse/relay box? I've fiddled around with my burned up parts and can't seem to figure it out.
Looking for the fuse that controls the overdrive torque converter clutch/lock up/engagement. Had a look in the owner's manual, didn't find anything. Pulled a couple fuses that I thought might be the one, no go.
I had found this fuse b4 but now a couple years later can't remember which one it is and can't remember where I found the info on what # the fuse was.
The left driver's side wheel is "stuck." The car is up on the jack, the lug nuts are all off, but the wheel will not come off.
View 15 Repliesi tried to fix my door actuator in my 2009 prius. However after I closed my door, now I can't open it from the inside or outside. I can reach in the door and manually pull the level on the actuator and is still will not open.
Now I just want to get the actuator out and put a new actuator in. Hopefully this is possible and if so how? Yes I still have the interior panel off and the vapor barrier pulled back
My '08 Prius Touring is in the shop today because the 'check engine' light came on at 68,500 miles. I just got word from them that the catalytic converter is bad and needs replacement. Good thing I bought the extended warranty! Well, I searched the forum for similar problems and it seems like this is somewhat common, albeit on cars with a bit more mileage and maybe a year or more older. I don't abuse my car at all, though I often roll into full-throttle while merging.
Is this a symptom of a poor part design or of a system that fouls the cat over a certain amount of time? I'm not looking forward to replacing it again at 130K after my extended warranty expires.
The brake actuator on our 2006 Prius (95K miles) was activating (pump turned on) every 20 seconds or so. I used AutoEnginuity (AE) software to monitor the pressure of PACC (accumulator pressure sensor) and the pressure dropped rapidly once the sensor voltage got up to around 3.1 volts; therefore, the pump would activate again and this cycle would keep repeating as long as the Prius was turned on. Therefore I decided to replace the brake accumulator and its associated resistor. I purchased a new brake actuator and its associated resistor from Toyota. The brake accumulator replacement went well but when I tried to locate the resistor to replace it, I was dismayed to see that the old resistor is very hard to access (even though I took most of the dash apart to find it).
In my 2006 Prius, the resistor is on the driver's side near the body and high up under the dash. I think I understand the reason for matching the resistor value with the resistance of the pump windings but I am going to use the old resistor and see how noisy the pump is. BTW I referenced Toyota website (TIS) for how to do the replacement procedure and now I am going to see how good AE software (latest version) is at bleeding the various components. This is FYI when replacing the brake actuator and wanting to know where this resistor is located and how difficult it is to access.
Looking for a video or directions on removing the front seats (driver and passenger) so that I can take them out of the car and give them a very thorough cleaning. Possible with a hose on a sunny day so they dry fast. I couldn't find it under the search option.
View 5 RepliesThe molding around my windshield on my 2007 Prius is looking pretty bad, looks like dried out Sun damage but doesn't leak. Is it replaceable without removing the windshield?
View 3 RepliesToyota says the code is P0420 and the Catalytic Converter is rattling under heavy acceleration showing the Catalytic converter is bad and should be replaced. Toyota wants 2,334.00 which seems very high to me. Is it the Catalytic converter? The car is a 2004 Toyota Prius.
View 12 RepliesThe check engine light came on a few times. Went to the old trusty repair shop and the codes pointed to an issue with the catalytic converter. When we started the car again, multiple warning dash lights came on: ABS, (!), Check Engine, and emergency brake light. The brakes also felt very stiff after this.
The mechanic at the shop was taken aback. Said there was a glitch with the computer and that we needed to take it to a dealership to have them "perform initialization of linear solenoid valve and calibration." He said that would fix the issue with the lights.
We were a little upset this happened but love this shop and only stopped going because we moved a few hours away. The mechanic has always been very honest and upfront through the years.
I took the car to the local Toyota dealership today, told them what happened and what the mechanic said. All they did was charge me $100 for a diagnosis of bad catalytic converter pipe and tell me that all the lights came on because the catalytic converter is so far gone. They said they couldn't turn the other lights off until the catalytic converter was replaced.
I don't understand why my brakes are affected when the issue with the car is the catalytic converter. I was also told by the guy at the shop where we first took the car that we would be able to drive with a faulty Catalytic converter with no problem.
I checked out a 2006 Prius yesterday a guy is selling. It had the CEL on (not sure why somebody would try and sell a car with that, but anyway). He said that it's because they get gas at a station that consistently doesn't tighten the gas cap enough but by the time the tank is down to 1-2 bars the light always goes away. Although I don't doubt his story, I absolutely doubted the cause. So I took it to get the code pulled and it was P0420, which is catalytic converter threshold below efficiency.
View 15 RepliesI just moved to Colorado with my 2009 Prius and on the fifth day here the check engine light went on and the dealership said my catalytic converter failed. Luckily I was still under warranty. Is this related to the altitude or just a coincidence?
View 3 RepliesI personally find the voice commands more distracting, and I also hate reaching for a button, going from 0 to 2 MPH, and then seeing the options all greyed out.
View 3 RepliesWant to stop this chime via VCDS, but leave the cluster icon on, if possible. I found something on Ross-Tech's website, but it doesn't seem to apply to our cars specifically, or does it? Like, specifically the way I want it (chime down, icon stays) with success, and can walk me through it?
This is off RT's site: [URL] ....
I followed the instructions in the manual for disabling the "perimeter" lighting feature. I don't get the "chirp" that let's me know the truck is in programming mode. I did have instant success in disabling the automatic door locking feature which is done by a similar process. I did get the "chirp".
View 2 RepliesMy check engine light has been coming on and off and it seems to show P0420 for catalytic converter. The light stays off for about a week and it'll come on for a day or two and off again.
Wouldn't a failed converter stay failed? Can P0420 be triggered by loose/bad gas caps?