Prius (2004-09) :: Disable A/C Compressor When Front Defrost Is On
Dec 20, 2012
a while back I had found and bookmarked a page here with info on how the dealer could program the A/C compressor to not be forced on when the front windshield defrost is on; but the page is now missing.
I want to disable the compressor being on during defog because it causes the air to be extremely dry and causes severe problems with my asthma; and as soon as I turn it off or switch to normal foot/front vents, all the water that had condensed on the A/C coil then spews out and fogs up the entire car badly. It's a vicious cycle that is dangerous.
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Santafe 2008, Manual Climate Control Switch. Can i disable AC "turn on" when i switch to front defrost.
in modern Hyundai cars, they can disable this operation by pressing 5 times on Intake (recirculation) button.
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Last summer the a/c in the car was ice cold. And until last week, the compressor was engaging when using the defroster. I am sure it was working because I started it one night, switched the controls to defrost, and the belt squealed just a bit. I think it's become a little slack and I need to adjust it... Anyway, the weather has started to change, (in the 70's) so I thought I should kick on the a/c to make sure all is still good. It wasn't. The defrost will not kick on the compressor either? When I push the a/c switch, nothing happens. No green light in the switch, no compressor. The blower works though. I checked all the fuses that had anything indicating "a/c." All were good. I switched the a/c relay with the tail light relay, (seems to have the exact same ratings) no go. What gives? I figure it's not likely that it's low on Freon, it has never "short cycled." And, wouldn't the light on the switch come on under a low Freon situation? Lastly, why four pins on the low pressure switch? Any easiest way to check which system is the fault? Manually engage the compressor clutch, or maybe short the low pressure switch?
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99 Jetta VR6... 190k
So the heat doesn't really work on my car- and its getting cold outside.
I read the DIY on fixing the resistor pack, but there is a lot of hooptiness to my ride, (not sure if that's the issue).
All the fan control speeds work, but the most I ever get is vaguely warm air- it never gets fully hot.
The temperature gauge does not work most of the time- it does occasionally (but randomly) work as expected.
The defrost doesn't work either due to an issue with the AC (it keeps blowing the fuse for the AC compressor- like, right away)
There's a multitude of issues happening here I know, but need to narrow down the suspects for the heat, that would be very useful.
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2004 Prius Basic 205k miles. No AC except when defrost is on. AC will not blow in automatic or manual control. But when switch on front defrost it blows cold air and I can hear the compressor turn on, cold air blows from the defrost vents. Can see bubbles in sight glass and have not observed either one of the fans in front of the radiator turn on.
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My wife has a 2010 Explorer 4.0 with 46000 miles on it. Yesterday the compressor started making a grinding noise when you turn the defrost on. It's only when the clutch kicks in. I'm hoping its something simple but, I fear its not.
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How do I disable the backup alarm on the Generation II Prius?
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2008 Prius 115,000 miles
Purchased 2 years ago @ 78,000 miles
My rear defrost stopped working at some point towards the end of last winter. I recently started to need it again with fall weather in Pennsylvania. I was able to find the fuse for it. I replaced it and that did not solve the problem. I took off the trim around the rear hatch window to make sure all the connections were solid and they were. Also the grid seems intact, I don't see any breaks in the defroster lines. The rear view mirror defrosters work whenever I hit the button to turn on the rear defrost.
At this point I am considering changing the rear defrost relay. I think it is located next to the fuse ...
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I rack up about 6 hours of daytime commute driving each week, and 6 hrs of night-time driving each week, in my 2009 Prius. That's 12 hours a week the low beam lights are used. I can't consider anything but the Basic sylvania headlights, as they are only rated for around 350 hours (like 9003BP), aand the premium bulbs are rated for much less. Is there any way to disable this daytime running feature? On my Corolla it is possible to ground a wire going to the daytime running module...the wire that becomes grounded when the parking brake is engaged. But the way Prius is all computerized, there may not be any discrete daytime running module.
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While DRLs are great where you need them (northern countries, rainy places) some people don't want them on all the time. The Gen1 Prius (2001-2003) with Factory DRL's is a bit a pain to defeat. You cannot just pull a fuse or relay and the main DRL relay is a complicated unit that is burried far far under the dash.
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I have a 2008 Prius. In 2009, I got into a collision, and the car required extensive body work. This week, I took my car to the mechanic to repair the air conditioning system - only warm air was blowing out. According to my mechanic, the compressor went out because the auto body shop put in the wrong oil in the air conditioning system and re-installed the fans backwards. I got my car back today, and the air conditioning works really great!
However, my family spoke to their mechanic (different person from my mechanic), and he indicated that used compressors are dangerous due to the high likelihood that contaminants will be leaked. This sounds completely ludicrous to me. My mechanic said that the other mechanic's concerns are unfounded.
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The AC on my 2002 Prius works fine, as long as it's cool outside and I'm running it on low. As soon as I stress the system -- either it's above 75 degrees outside, or I'm running it on maximum, or driving on the highway for more than 30 minutes -- the compressor conks out. Fan's still blowing, but no cold air. The light on the a/c button starts flashing. If I turn it off for a few seconds, the cold air comes on again, but usually only for a few minutes, and then we repeat the cycle. The Toyota mechanics claimed they couldn't replicate the problem, but I bet if I forced them to ride with me up and down the highway on a 90-degree day with the windows up and no a/c, they'd believe me.
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I have an 05 Prius with 53k miles and the ac just recently stopped working. The blower fan still comes on, but neither the compressor nor condenser cooling fan will come on. I've checked the fuses and relays, and they check out ok. I'm hoping there may be one I missed? It just stopped working with no warning signs. What could be causing this? If the compressor was bad, the condenser fan would still work, right? I'm fearing it's the ac inverter. Do the symptoms match?
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Quick back story, bought the car a year ago, seller told me it was in an accident and the radiator was replaced. He let me know that the discharge AC hose was missing and that the other hose was disconnected. I also noticed that the low pressure cap is missing. I recently ordered and installed the discharge hose with the intention of filling the system later.
I have always noticed a noise/vibration coming from the passenger side when braking at low speeds. I havent noticed at higher speeds but maybe there is more road noise. The best I can describe the noise is that is sounds like a compressor running. I have a hunch it's the AC compressor and might be related to the regenerative braking, but I am no expert.
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My wife and I have had a 2005 Prius for a little over a year now. When we bought it, the previous owner said the A/C system was new. Once the spring/summer hit, we realised that wasn't true- apparently the blower motor was replaced, but the compressor was bad (dealer confirmed). We just lived with it last summer, but I am wanting to replace it now before it warms up.
I am home mechanic- no professional, but I have done everything from engine rebuilds to engine swaps at my house before. There are very few jobs that my cars have needed that I haven't done myself. The Prius is one thing I haven't done much to, and am not completely familiar with. I looked at a diagram, and the compressor seems easy to access from below the car. I have ordered a service manual for the Prius, and will use that.
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Unplugging the Ac compressor, what the voltage reads on the three orange leads that run the compressor (one lead from voltmeter to ground, AC voltage). Test with Ac off then on.
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I just found out that the air conditioning compressor is broke in my 2006 prius and its going to cost $1800 to fix it.. I am not in the loop here but that seems ridiculously high. I mean i save money at the pump but all that money just went out the door if i get this repaired. I am really contemplating trading the car in rather than deal with that expense..
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It's one of those days again when the temps are starting to get hot here in Austin, Tx. My AC started acting up during the Spring and first started working fine then after about 10-15 minutes of driving the air starts to blow warmer. The air doesn't go back to cold unless the car has been parked and off for several hours or overnight, and even after that it only blows cold for 10-15 mins again.
Well, I didn't have the time/money to mess with it. The recent May it stopped cooling completely. I recently took it to a local shop and we look at it together. Drained the system and the mechanic was saying it's pulling some air and a little refrigerant. Well, we recharged the system and we could only put in 0.5 lbs and the Low side just maxes out. The system is supposed to hold 1.06 lbs so we were left scratching our heads.
Decided to check for leaks, discharged the system again and hooked up a vacuum pump and see if the gauges will go below 0 for negative pressure and they never did. So the shop doesn't think my system has a leak. They could have used a dye to check but didn't have any on the shelf at that moment.
I also have a DTC code of B1476 and we followed the shop manual. Fans blow into the engine and sometimes we had the bubble but couldn't add more refrigerant due to the Low side being maxed.
My father thinks I most likely have a blockage somewhere in the system. If so, how I can check for this? Is there a specific place or two I can look to find out the system is blocked?
Some people on the form seem to have AC problems, including some with the B1476, and others that couldn't find the problem very well. I'm worried that replacing the compressor wouldn't solve the problem, especially if there is a blockage or something. I usually do a lot of mechanic work but I've never actually worked on an AC system before. I would love to dive into this, even if I can only do part of it and then send it to the Toyota dealer for a flush and charge.
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Just rescued this 2004 from a driveway death. While checking out a no A/C condition I notice that the A/C compressor cycles on for about 10-15 seconds then stops, does this 4 times and then ends. System shows low pressure but doesn't run long enough to build up any. Need to get the OBD-2 tester on it.
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Had A/C go out while in Vegas almost 2 weeks ago. Dealer said compressor dead, replaced at my dealer back home, now having loss of power issue's, poor acceleration, 29mpg, & bad smell like transmission fluid or catalytic converter... Problems noticed after picked up car, then went away, now back.. No codes on the scantool, no lights etc.
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A few weeks ago, I received the triangle light in my 2007 Prius with 125k miles on it. When I took it to the dealer, they said that the hybrid battery needed to be replaced. A new battery was ordered & installed by the dealer, which took a couple weeks as the battery wasn't in stock. When I picked up the Prius this week, within driving it a couple miles, it was apparent the A/C wasn't working. I took it right back to the dealer who said they'd look into it. When the Service sales guy started it again, it made a very strange noise as well, which it never did before. The dealer has come back and said that not only has the A/C Compressor out but the ABS actuator is also failing. They are saying this has nothing to do with the battery replacement but both these items were working fine before having the battery replaced
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